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02-14-2004, 06:19 PM | #1 |
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How can I get out my uppipe without removing the lower engine mount bolt?
I have been working on my car for about 5 hours off and on. I had to make three trips to autozone
Anyway I finally have everything out except for the uppipe. When I tried to remove the engine mount nut, I slipped and rounded the edges a little . I tried again, same results. I am afraid of destroying the nut. How can I get it out of there?
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02-14-2004, 06:23 PM | #2 |
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Pull the turbo and brackets..PITA, too.....are you using a 6pt. socket?
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02-14-2004, 06:24 PM | #3 |
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Yes I am using 6 point. I have ran into this problem before with 12 point so I avoid using them.
BTW, know of any good site with instructions on pulling the turbo. I don't think there can be much left holding it in. |
02-14-2004, 06:55 PM | #4 |
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patience...
I know your pain... Make sure you have ALL the brakects to the up-pipe loose, they have some bolts that can be hard to get to. Once you have everything loose there is really nothing holding your turbo on except intake hose, coolent hose, etc. but it will allow some play. Pull the turbo up while you pull-up and turn the up-pipe into position to where you can pull it out. I have done at least 10 up-pipes and have never had to jack the engine up. Good luck
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02-14-2004, 08:02 PM | #5 |
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Where can I get some instructions for the up pipe install? Sorry not trying to jack your thread or anything.
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02-14-2004, 08:06 PM | #6 | |
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02-14-2004, 08:07 PM | #7 |
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It is out Only casualty is my pride and coolant. Now I can't remember where the brackets went I am going to go and download the manual now. Enough pain for one day. Once the turbo and brackets are back in, I am done for today.
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02-14-2004, 08:27 PM | #8 |
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Thanks and have fun putting it all back together! hah. It will be worth it. What up pipe are you putting in anyways?
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02-14-2004, 09:33 PM | #9 |
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Helix flex uppipe, and a stromung 3" with divorced wg
I tried wiggling the uppipe out around the turbo but was not able to get it past it. I removed the hard oil liine, then the upper coolant line then the lower coolant line. It would not wiggle loose until I had the turbo completely out. The bracket I was messing up was the one that sits next to the turbo on top of the uppipe. I paid $20 to Subaru for the manuals. So now the turbo is back in the car dangling from the coolant lines and intake hose. Tomorrow the car goes back together. At times like this I hate this hobby, but tomorrow I am sure I will be happy. |
02-14-2004, 09:50 PM | #10 |
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ha you are scaring me now to put mine on next weekend but I would rather put it on myself and learn something new than pay 200 bucks for someone else to do it. Congrats on the getting it out! And very nice pieces you ahve going in! You are gonna love it.....
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02-14-2004, 10:16 PM | #11 |
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It's sometimes easier to lie down under the car and roll the uppipe over the front passenger side axle towards where the downpipe was. It comes out in that direction too.....
peace |
02-14-2004, 10:31 PM | #12 |
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does your uppipe have an egt bung? i just did my vishnu today and my car is acting super weird (see the link)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=503134 i also did the uppipe the way you did. but i had a easier time with it, sort of. but i'm afraid i may have left out a coolant line or something...... ugh. i have to drive my civic. i thought i got out of ricer hell, now i'm right back in it. |
02-14-2004, 10:31 PM | #13 |
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I am glad that the wrx can pass emissions without the uppipe. The stock one is never going back in there.
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02-14-2004, 10:34 PM | #14 |
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Were you using a deep-well for standard socket?
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02-14-2004, 10:45 PM | #15 |
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The first try I used a deep socket. Then I tried with a normal. That nut is F###ed. If I ever have to deal with that nut again I will take the car to my mechanic and let him deal with it
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02-14-2004, 11:27 PM | #16 |
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I hope you know all this already, but it might help to step back for a second and try something different if you don't(or if it didn't go well). The person who started me on cars would watch me work, and just sit there and laugh...... Obviously he knew what was up, so I asked, and he said, "Finesse, Not Force".
Anyways, for the situation at hand, it would be best to use a deep socket with the longest wrech you can find. One hand is put on the pivitting end of the wrench , and is held there to keep the axis from moving(leverage to keep the turn correct). The other hand is put on the handle of the wrench and pushed or pulled. The farther out on the handle of the wrech the second hand is, the more torque there will be with the same force(so you can get more torque with a 2 foot wrench then a one foot wrench). If you don't hold where the wratched moves for leverage, you'll strip the bolt because you won't be able to turn the wratchet in the correct direction and won't grip the bolt right. Sorry for the lecture, especially if you knew this and it's really beginner to you. I've seen people(like both my roommates) just look at the tools like they're not workin, when the problem is really how they are being used, and once this is realized, it won't happen again. If you use too small a wrench you're gonna kill your self trying to loosen the bolt. If you use a socket which isn't deep enough, it might not get enough grip on the bolt. To install an uppipe correctly, you're gonna have to remove those bolts and loosen the ones connecting the brackets to the engine. If You can't get the stripped bolts off once you try again(the normal way), you might wanna grind or cut them off. I had to do this once cause I stripped the threading of a bold puting it on and couldn't get an easy out in the right place to remove the screw in the uppipe. Also, if you don't have a torque wrench, now would be the time to get one. Sorry again for the lecture, but if you never heard these things, now might be a good time. The two most important things I've ever heard about workin on cars are "finess, not force", and "it's hard to do any job without the right tools". I'm no expert, just checkin to make sure there weren't any simple problems made, cause I know simple things . peace |
02-14-2004, 11:30 PM | #17 |
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The way people do the up-pipe install amazes me. You don't have to take out the turbo. You don't have to take out the I/C you don't have to loosen the engine. You can wiggle the up-pipe out as long as you have the EGT probe out and remove the Y section off the headers so that you can drop the up-pipe down and off the bolts of the turbo. I have done 6 this way with no probs and the install of TBE and up-pipe taking less than 5 hrs total. If you want to know how just ask me. It is possible tho. Why do all that work when you don't have to?
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02-14-2004, 11:50 PM | #18 |
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i just removed the headlight module(driving light) and my uppipe came out with no problem. didn't have to remove turbo or any hoses to it. but had a bad uppipe so just got done gutting the stocker and putting on this week. i even took it to a shop to look at it.
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02-15-2004, 12:07 AM | #19 |
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Hippy, thanks for the suggestions. I always think finesse until faced with a rusty bolt As far as working on cars I have done everything except pull an engine. I have done clutch changes and other fairly advanced stuff by myself. I normally apply pressure over the bolt as I twist. My mistake on this one is I assumed it was horizontal to the ground, and I was not ontop of the bolt. I was using a deep socket for that bolt. Personally I don't think I will need to remove the motor mounts for any reason. If I do, then I will drop it off at my mechanic. Working on cars is supposed to relax me.
I own 3 torque wrenches btw. F22, I removed the bottom portion of the header. On my car the cat bulge could not make it between the engine and the crossmember/frame(whatever that is under the up). Then I tried the engine mount thing. Then I tried wiggling the turbo in different directions and pushing/pulling the uppipe. Maybe you can post a short video of your technique... I just reread what you wrote. I did drop the uppipe from the turbo with no problem. The problem was getting it out of the engine bay. |
02-15-2004, 12:41 AM | #20 |
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yeh, sorry for bein captain obvious, but I'll keep doin it. Did you loosen the driver side engine mount bolt and remove the passenger side one(or loosen it as far as possible)? If you take it out through the manifold(or over the axle), you might have to twist it to get it out(I don't think it just slips out). Be carefull when the engine's jacked up(don't start jerkin the car).....
peace |
02-15-2004, 01:18 AM | #21 |
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If anybody really wants to know, the first uppipe I did....I got frustrated and Dremeled the rearmost inboard stud off the damn uppipe and pulled the damn thing right out the damn top and threw it behind the shed where it rests, rusting, in the weeds at this moment
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02-15-2004, 06:05 AM | #22 |
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hippy, I did not try loosening the driver side bolt. I went for the passenger side first. Initially I tried just jacking the engine, but the whole car went higher Sometimes I get away with that on other cars but the subies mounts keep the engine in there very well. I think I only needed .5-1 inch or so to get it out.
Uncle Scotty, I think dremeling is a bigger PITA than pulling the turbo. I have a rotozip I have not tried yet though The biggest issue was coolant loss, and I was tired. Once I figured out shoving somthing in the top connection would prevent air from getting in I had lost alot already. |
02-15-2004, 06:22 AM | #23 |
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Yeh, loosenning both of the nuts results in more/easier motion. It will still be connected to the tranny, so it isn't gonna come off the car. Make sure to watch your hands, and open the hood b4 jackin the engine up(if it isn't open).....
peace |
02-15-2004, 01:34 PM | #24 |
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02-15-2004, 08:15 PM | #25 | |
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