|
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
04-09-2010, 06:57 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
2005 WRX-98 Legacy GT wagon 5MT swap WIP
See lower down for updates regarding problems later on I had.
Well I am starting my 5 speed swap on Monday after my auto-x. I will try to document everything here and make things comprehensive for future swappers. Hopefully I have everything. The only thing I am not sure about is which drive shaft to use. I have the auto drive shaft that is on it, and I also have the sedan manual drive shaft. I bought the swap from millennium auto on here. It was $1800 and included almost every thing minus the trans harness, sensors, pitchmount/bracket, and slave cyl. I found a donor 02 wrx and got all that stuff from it. I will have pics of the goodies up soon. Here is a pic of the wagon: Its mods are: 3 angle valve grind twe spring and retainers new HG's accel 8mm wires NGK iridium plugs Perrin LW pulley Whiteline lateral links 04 Pink STi struts w/ black springs some JDM goodness 215/50/16 BFG G-force sport A/S tires 05 OBS Enkei wheels 07 WRX 4 pot front brakes 07 WRX 2 pot rear brakes w/ hub conversion Goodridge SS lines 2.5" straight pipe exhaust (no cats)
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Last edited by iluvdrt; 09-20-2010 at 03:13 PM. |
04-10-2010, 05:48 AM | #2 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4021
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Natick, MA USA
Vehicle:1999 Legacy GT Ltd Quick Silver Metallic |
I *think* you will need to use the manual drive shaft from the sedan. If you were swapping in a 6 speed with DCCD then you would most likely be able to use your current auto drive shaft.
|
04-10-2010, 07:51 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
That is what I thought. If any of them are to short though there is a nice drive shaft shop down the street, I can have it extended there.
|
04-10-2010, 01:16 PM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 67154
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Central NY
Vehicle:2007 Audi RS4 Avus |
The manual driveshaft from the sedan will work fine, all manual BD/G/K driveshafts are the same part (sedan/wagon/outback 2.2/2.5 all the same - 27031AC080).
All auto driveshafts for the BD/G/K are also the same (27031AC010). The 5-speed driveshaft will work with any 5-speed box, for the 6-speed you need to use the auto driveshaft. |
04-10-2010, 03:43 PM | #5 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 233321
Join Date: Dec 2009
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, Oregon
Vehicle:2002 WRX Wagon WRB |
i'd love to see how it turns out, i was hoping to do this to my outback someday.
good luck |
04-10-2010, 09:09 PM | #6 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Quote:
Pics below!! |
|
04-10-2010, 09:15 PM | #7 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Here are the goods.
2005 wrx trans rebuilt by Millenium. 2005 rear diff pedals and lots of other stuff. and the shop |
04-12-2010, 08:27 PM | #8 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Got the rear diff out, as well as the drive shaft, all 4 axles, exhaust, and heat sheild. Tom I will take out the trans and load some pics.
|
04-18-2010, 08:43 AM | #9 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Made some nice progress this weekend.
5 spd trans is in. Removed the auto and flex plate from the engine. Installed new 2 peice flywheel with exedy stage 2 clutch. The only problem with using the 05 trans is the bell housing had 6 bolts (vs 4 from the 98). I took a 12mm bolt and made a 4" long stud. I then tapped the lower starter hole in the 5 spd trans with a 12mm 1.5 tap. I didn't tap all the way through the trans so my stud would have a stopping point. Then, I inserted the stud with some loctite on it into the trans. I had to drill the hole in the starter a little larger to fit over the stud, but everything is good now. Some people drill and tap the block, but I thought this was easier and since the auto is set up this way, it is proven to work. The pedals were a PITA. You have to remove pretty much everything from under the dash. I didn't disconnect anything, but just unbolted and tied up out of the way. The new pedal box is a lot bigger then just the old brake pedal. The clutch portion of the box fits through the holes in the firewall where that black plug is next to the brake master cyl. The clutch master cyl bolts to that. replace all electrical stuff in a new home under the dash. Manual trans went in like butter. SOO much more room under the car now. The auto is gigantic and I should be saving about 100-150 lbs from this swap as well. The bolt holes for the x member are by the control arm bracket. They had rubber plugs in them. These are a fine thread. 12x1.75. I used 30mm long bolts with a large washer on them. The two holes f or the shifter assy are also plugged up by where the shifter is. They are standard 8mm x 1.50 IIRC. I used sedan axles. The 05 axles have exciter rings on them for the ABS. Our cars have a diff set up. These rings on the axle have to be removed. A punch and hammer makes quick work of that though. The reinsert into the car as normal. The wiring was a little tricky. The 4 eat has 100x87597657 wires going to it. You only need 4. 2 for reverse, and 2 for neutral safety. There are also 2 wires that come off of the little switch on the shifter that allow you to get your keys out and I have heard turn on the fuel pump. The 4 wires you need come off of the trans inhibitor switch selector harness. I used the factory pig tail tail and cut all the wires off of it except the 4 I need. This makes for a cleaner install and you can still unplug the trans from the harness. The pin numbers are 9-12 (9, 10, 11, 12) on the harness side of that plug. 9, and 10 are for the reverse lights. Plug them into the 5 spd reverse switch on the trans. It is the white switch at the back of the trans. There is a black switch on the trans as well, but we dont need it. IDK what it does. Mine must be bad because even w/ a mutimeter I couldnt get continuity out of it. I let it hang. 11 and 12 are for the Neutral Safety switch. I plugged them into the clutch pedal switch. There are 2 switches on the clutch pedal. The bottom switch is for cruise control dis engagement. You dont need to use that one. The top one is the NS switch. When you puch the clutch pedal down it closes the switch and completes the circut. Clutch is out circut is open and cruise works. Use your old vehicle speed sensor. The newer VSS's have 3 prongs. Ours only have 2. They look diff but are a direct swap. You will have to extend the harness a bit to make it reach. Also, there is a little metal peice that goes inside of the VSS. Ensure this swaps over with the sensor. It falls out of the switch very easy. My auto driveshaft is too short and so was the sedan 5 spd drive shaft. I am thinking I need a wagon drive shaft, or have mine extended. Ill post pics in a minute. |
04-18-2010, 09:28 AM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Here is the bolt I made into a stud for the starter.
Trans is in This is the bolt hole by the control arm for the x member Here is wiring harness part you use. The 4 wires come from this plug. The black wires are the NS switch. I routed them through the speedo cable hole to the pedal. Here is the NS switch on the clutch pedal. It is the black wires with elec tape. Here is the speed sensor switched over from the auto. The little black switch on the shifter is what you need to splice together. This lets your key out. I have heard it also closes the relay for your fuel pump. |
04-18-2010, 09:31 AM | #11 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Here is the pedals w/ everything tucked up
interior shots: |
04-18-2010, 09:49 AM | #12 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Here is the wiring schematic from the FSM. I have added notes.
|
04-30-2010, 03:49 PM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
OK so updates:
Got the slave cyl installed. I had to use a hard line because noone sells a metric banjo bolt. I hope it doesnt break. Ill try to get a nice stainless line soon. I bled the clutch with a one man bleeder. It was SOOO easy and only took a few minutes. I highly rec getting one. It was $6 at Napa. You just fill up the clutch master cyl, break the bleeder loose, and pump the pedal until no more air bubbles are in the clear line. Leave the pedal down, close the bleeder screw and pump it up. Done. Takes 5 min. Installed the starter. The homemade starter stud worked like a champ. I finished installing the intake plumbing and pitchmount assy as well. The top of the car is DONE. I started her up and I did get a CEL. P1702. Basically it wants to know where the auto is. I told it it was on a pallett, but it didnt listen. I got the FSM out and with a little research found out that all ECM's for auto's and sticks are the same. There is an identifier pin you have to have to ground out to tell the car it is no longer and auto. Ill do that tonight and she should be all ready for the driveshaft to get here. I finally found a driveshaft. The ONLY one that fits a lego or outback wagon is a lego or outback wagon 5 spd driveshaft. This is the 3rd driveshaft I have based on the rec's of fellow NASIOC'ers. But it should be here very soon. That is all that is left. |
05-01-2010, 08:14 PM | #14 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 57431
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Charleston, WV
Vehicle:98 Legacy GT 04 Dakota QC 4x4 |
Wow...you kinda make it sound easy.
|
05-01-2010, 10:54 PM | #15 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 153374
Join Date: Jul 2007
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Ocala, FL
Vehicle:2001 Outback Wagon White |
^ Funny, I was thinking the exact same thing. Half way through reading it I was like "Hmm, maybe I should just do this..."
|
05-02-2010, 09:01 AM | #16 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Mechanically it is very easy. Everything bolts right up. The wires were a little tricky, but that was because I didnt have a diagram for awhile.
The hardest part for me was getting the pedal box in the car. There are a lot of wires under there, and the 5 spd pedal box is huge. I even used the auto console, and the shifter fits perfect in the hole. |
05-02-2010, 11:36 AM | #17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 57431
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Charleston, WV
Vehicle:98 Legacy GT 04 Dakota QC 4x4 |
That's what she said.
I really might have to consider this...maybe i can do it when I eventually swap in a fresher motor...175k now |
05-02-2010, 05:12 PM | #18 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
|
07-10-2010, 03:19 PM | #19 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 219277
Join Date: Aug 2009
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Rhode Island
Vehicle:2002 WRB BUGEYE 99 2.5RS |
Ok my entire 4EAT to 5MT swap is done with the exception of one thing... I cannot get my speedo to work. I have tried everything. My car is an 02 bugeye. The tranny I put in is a 5MT out of an 04 WRX. I bought a brandy new VSS for a 98 leggy because it is 2 pin. I've been though every diagram imaginable.. Please help guys =(
|
07-11-2010, 08:33 PM | #20 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Quote:
Also make sure when you install the VSS the little metal tab thing inside of it dont fall out. |
|
07-12-2010, 06:08 PM | #21 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8124
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Denver, Colorado
Vehicle:1998 Old Grey Mule Regacy Rype R |
gosh. this does seem so easy. I want a 5mt so bad. worst mistake I ever made was getting a 4eat.
|
09-20-2010, 03:22 PM | #22 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
So basically after the swap I had a few problems with electrical componets.
-fuel gauge would not work with car off and read 1/4 tank low P0130 O2 sensor fault P1507 IAC fault P1101 NSS fault Stumbling when taking off, bogging down when I rev matched my shifts, poor fuel milage, stalling. So I went back to the drawing board. I traced all the O2 sensor wires and they appeared good. I wasn't getting voltage from the ecu though and it wouldnt go to closed loop. I saw a TSB for the 1507 and 1101 codes and how they were related, so I started with those two to try and get rid of the two codes first. Looking at the ecu pin outs the NSS is on pin 82 which is pin 12 (blue w/red) on the auto tranny inhibitor switch (also used to start the car). The way I see it, is Pin 12 on the inhibitor switch comes from pin 82 on the ecu and is hot from the ign switch on the auto (blue w/red) . The ecu its self also produces 5v from the same pin. Pin 11 on the inhibitor switch goes to pin 86 on the ECU and is used to energize the starter (yellow w/ black). Currently, these two wires are spliced together so the car will start..like it was in N or P. I was thinking pin 12 on the inhibitor switch (the blue w/red) would also need to go to the NSS then to ground so that whenever the car is in gear it is grounded....BUT... the start circut is intertwined with the NSS circut on my car from the factory, so basically, when the car starts (with the auto), the ecu knows it is in N. When you put it into gear, it knows it is now in D. All I had to do was find the jumper wire between those 2 circuts which were at pin 82 on my ecu. I cut the ign switch wire off of the NSS wire (basically cut the wire coming off pin 82 on the ecu in half). I ran the NSS wire (the one coming from the ecu) to my switch then to a ground. The ign wire (the left over from the cutting) I just capped off by the ecu ( this was the jumper wire. it has no voltage now). I ran wires 11 and 12 from the auto harness to my clutch pedal so the car will only start with the pedal down, like I did originally. Now the cruise works, and the car stays in closed loop while driving (it used to just stay in open). My fuel gauge works now, and my O2 sensor code (P0130) is gone as well. I can watch the voltage from the O2 and it is perfect. The car runs great now, no more bogging to rev match and stuttering when taking off. It's like a new car. So in short, this little endevor fixed all the problems at once. In a nut shell the NSS (neutral posiiton switch) tells the ecu when it is in gear and when it is N. The ecu will not go closed loop if it thinks it is in N, and it will try to control the idle (rpms) when you are driving (the ecu doesn't know you are driving because it is stuck in N, hence the P1507 and P0130 codes). Because the fuel gauge shares the same ground circut as the NSS, when the car was off the voltage going to the fuel sending unit was instead sent to ground instead of the unit it's self because of the factory jumper. Once the jumper is removed all the circuts are isolated again. Last edited by iluvdrt; 09-20-2010 at 03:32 PM. |
09-21-2010, 09:08 AM | #23 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 77321
Join Date: Dec 2004
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland Or
Vehicle:06 Magnum R/T Black, bitches |
Very nice work. How much of this do you think is applicable rolling into new Impreza models? (By newer I mean 02-up)
|
10-28-2010, 01:49 AM | #24 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 261850
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: Oakland
Vehicle:1994 RS Red |
what switch did you wire it to after you cut it
|
10-31-2010, 12:32 PM | #25 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 46248
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: DRTY Autosports Oceanside, Ca
Vehicle:82 Brat Tan |
Quote:
The clutch pedal switch wires into the auto trans harness where neutral circut is. The NS switch wires into an ecu ground, and the ecu side of the wire I cut. The portion of the engine harness I cut I just capped off and left it alone. It is a ground anyways. Hard to explain. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
My Swap: WRX Drivetrain into 98 Legacy GT Wagon | Soarer | Member's Car Gallery | 154 | 01-07-2014 12:58 AM |
2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT Non limited $18,500 Low Miles | ikonomore | Private Vehicle 'For Sale' Classifieds | 3 | 06-14-2008 10:42 AM |
FS: FL 2005 Silver Legacy GT Wagon 5mt | MagicLGT | Private Vehicle 'For Sale' Classifieds | 3 | 03-17-2007 11:35 PM |
2005 non-limited legacy gt wagon, 5mt, for sale | sandwood | Private Vehicle 'For Sale' Classifieds | 14 | 02-09-2007 09:14 AM |
Got it! Red Legacy GT Wagon 5MT | Beanboy | Legacy Forum | 4 | 10-27-2004 06:22 PM |