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01-05-2010, 01:22 AM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10449
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: PDX, OR
Vehicle:03 Legacy BH Silver |
Loud clicking/clunking noise while turning.. Any ideas?
Guys:
So I have this little issue with my 2003 Legacy SE wagon. Upon turning I hear a loud clicking or clunking noise coming from the right front wheel. It kind of feels like it's slipping or stuttering. I only of course notice it at slow speeds (upon parking or making a U-turn). Do any of you legacy gurus know what's going on? Please help. The shop said it might be a differential tooth has broke off or maybe an axle issue. Taking it in on Thursday to diagnose.. Any suggestions for an upgrade option as well? Thanks for the help PJ |
01-05-2010, 01:26 AM | #2 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 96585
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Vehicle:05 STI PSM |
My guess would be swaybars/endlinks being loose.
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01-05-2010, 06:14 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 153374
Join Date: Jul 2007
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Ocala, FL
Vehicle:2001 Outback Wagon White |
Is it kind of a continuos clicking noise? Or is it just a like a single big clunk that happens.
I would say front right CV joint. |
01-05-2010, 08:08 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 164
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Philly suburbs
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01-05-2010, 10:22 AM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 163816
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Vehicle:1999 Legacy Outback Black |
sounds like a CV joint
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01-05-2010, 02:58 PM | #6 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 153374
Join Date: Jul 2007
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Ocala, FL
Vehicle:2001 Outback Wagon White |
Go to the car and look at the front right axle's boots and see if theres grease everywhere or if there is a rip/tear/puncture/hole in one of the two boots (most likely the boot at the hub though).
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01-06-2010, 01:52 AM | #7 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 227802
Join Date: Oct 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: brooklyn ny
Vehicle:1998 legacy outback blue and tan |
cv joint
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01-09-2010, 02:46 PM | #8 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10449
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: PDX, OR
Vehicle:03 Legacy BH Silver |
went to the shop to have it diagnosed.. the think its a viscous coupler issue..
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01-15-2010, 08:48 PM | #9 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10449
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: PDX, OR
Vehicle:03 Legacy BH Silver |
Bump..
Has anyone had or heard of a Viscous Coupling issue..? |
01-15-2010, 08:52 PM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 223892
Join Date: Sep 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: :yawn:
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CV joint my 2002 wrx did that and when i got it fixed it stopped
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01-15-2010, 09:00 PM | #11 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10449
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: PDX, OR
Vehicle:03 Legacy BH Silver |
did it bind a lot before then?
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01-15-2010, 09:03 PM | #12 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 223892
Join Date: Sep 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: :yawn:
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01-15-2010, 09:20 PM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10449
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: PDX, OR
Vehicle:03 Legacy BH Silver |
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01-15-2010, 09:30 PM | #14 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10449
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: PDX, OR
Vehicle:03 Legacy BH Silver |
It didn't bind before that..
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01-17-2010, 12:00 PM | #15 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 235396
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Bend, Oregon
Vehicle:1993 Legacy L Green |
Sounds like your CV joint...
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01-21-2010, 01:36 PM | #16 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 170813
Join Date: Feb 2008
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:2005 Outback Blue |
Happened in my legacy, had to replace the cv joint!
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01-22-2010, 11:59 AM | #17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 36735
Join Date: May 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Wellington,NZ / Willoughby,OH
Vehicle:99 GF8 Impreza 2.0 2= 1998 BD + BK Legacy GT |
k2snow - auto or manual? If it's auto, I'm betting you have torque bind.
You can do one of two things - the expensive option is to have them rack the car and replace the transfer clutch packs in the transmission and repair duty solenoid C if applicable. The cheaper option, which I have found to work on 3 different subbies (including an 03 Outback) was to drain the ATF, refill with the recommended grade of ATF + a red bottle of Lubegard ATF Protectant. This little bottle reconditions the clutch packs and helps lower ATF temps which in turn protect components. Quick way to see if you have torque bind (AT only) is to insert a fuse (check owners manual for rating) into the "FWD" fuse box on the passenger side of the engine bay, right up by the firewall. This puts the car in FWD mode and allows you to determine if torque bind is the issue. If you put the fuse in, and the scrubbing noise goes away, voila, torque bind. |
01-25-2010, 11:50 PM | #18 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 225624
Join Date: Oct 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Northern Virginia
Vehicle:1996 Legacy L Audi TT Nimbus Grey |
It is usually your outer CV joint that makes the clunk/click noise. When the inner one is going it's commonly preceeded by "feeling" minor lurching during acceleration. Anyway, spend a little more and replace the whole half-shaft since you'll already have it apart.
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12-19-2011, 09:07 AM | #19 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 302645
Join Date: Dec 2011
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: NC or ON
Vehicle:2005 Impreza RS Red |
2005 Impreza RS Sedan with Automatic
I put in the fuse and the turning noise was gone. I bought a 10OZ size of the Lubegard ATF Protectant on eBay. Roughly how much should I use the Lubegard ATF Protectant? Thanks.
Quote:
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01-10-2012, 07:25 PM | #20 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 302645
Join Date: Dec 2011
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: NC or ON
Vehicle:2005 Impreza RS Red |
No need for the Lubegard in the ATF
Just report back that Lubegard is not required to free the torque bind, just change the ATF by drain and fill and the run for about 50 miles, ATF drain and fill again. Problem solved! The guy on eBay selling me the Lubegard was unable to answer if the Lubegard was any good at all! Luckily I only wasted $12 and the time waiting for it.
Quote:
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01-12-2012, 02:27 PM | #21 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 306690
Join Date: Jan 2012
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one word
says it all - CV
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12-23-2011, 05:52 PM | #22 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 31292
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: The woods of south central NH
Vehicle:21 Taco Xtrek XR4 sienna |
My 03 5MT Legacy wagon is doing the same thing. Swapped the (cheap rebuilt rock auto pos) halfshaft for a better quality unit. Still doing it. RF wheel bearing was kinda nasty sounding, so it's getting swapped out now. I hope it's not the center diff....
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12-26-2011, 01:50 PM | #23 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 246797
Join Date: May 2010
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Lynnhood, WA
Vehicle:2005 LGT Wagon murdered |
My '05 LGT would make a click/clunk sound while in turns. It would almost sound/feel like as I initiated the turn something would roll from the inside to the outside and make the noise as it hit the outer fender. It didn't make the "rolling" noise, but had the same timing as if something was rolling/sliding across the dash ect... Wound up being a snapped OEM endlink.
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01-10-2012, 04:59 PM | #24 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 31292
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: The woods of south central NH
Vehicle:21 Taco Xtrek XR4 sienna |
Wasn't the wheel bearings or RF half shaft. Guess I need to double check other half shafts...but the mechanic who did the wheel bearings (which it needed, it's SO much quieter now) said his fiance's Baja munched the viscous coupling/center diff in 90k miles. I'm at 158k and I use it like an F250.
Anybody know what happens when it fails completely? I can deal with temp 2wd, or even gliding to a stop, but would prefer not to have a "lock all four" situation. Thanks. |
01-30-2012, 10:05 PM | #25 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 31292
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: The woods of south central NH
Vehicle:21 Taco Xtrek XR4 sienna |
Not long after my last post, I found myself with a FWD Legacy, which really sucked in the ice rink that is my road and driveway. A friend got me a used center diff and after a bunch of hours under my car, I now have AWD again. I have 8-10 hours of work in it, but more than half of that was dealing with cutting a hole in the chassis and welding a bolt in place to replace a busted off captive nut to hold the whole cradle assembly. Snapped both studs off the rubber trans mount and had to drill those out, weld in some bolts, and add some metal to create my Group Eh solid mount.
Shifter linkage bushings all disintegrated during the disassembly process, so I had a slop-o-matic shifter for a week while I waited for overpriced garbage and new linkage from Turn In Concepts. On a non-rusty car with a lift? I think it's less than a two hour job. Double that on crappy low jack stands in an unheated garage. Double that again for snapped off bolts and 50 lbs. of sand getting around your safety goggles and making you miserable. |
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