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03-14-2014, 03:37 PM | #951 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 268562
Join Date: Dec 2010
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Brooklyn, ny
Vehicle:2004 Wrx wagon White |
Wow - I'm doing SM this year for the first time - I started by reading the first few pages at the beginning of this thread, then jumped to the end. After four years, still talking about Fender Braces.
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03-18-2014, 10:43 AM | #952 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 139249
Join Date: Jan 2007
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http://www.licmotorsports.com/produc...i_lic-08207412
SM Legal? I feel like the rule book contradicts itself one paragraph to the next, uless im just reading this wrong? E. Suspension components are unrestricted as long as they use the original attachment points. For the purposes of this rule, "suspension" is defined as any item that is designed to move when a wheel is deflected vertically. This includes shocks/struts, control arms, steering knuckles, uprights, etc., but not tie rods, steering racks, and subframes. In addition, shock absorber/strut upper mounts are to be considered suspension components. F. Steering modifications are permitted as follows: 1. Steering components, including the steering rack and/or box, tie rods, idler arms, power assist devices, and related components may be replaced, added, moved, or removed. The steering column within the passenger compartment is specifically excluded from this allowance. This does not permit removal or modification of column-mounted accessories. Wheel-mounted electrical switches such as those for the horn, radio, cruise control, or shifter may be relocated and/or replaced, or eliminated. |
03-18-2014, 10:53 AM | #953 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 330625
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:2006 WRX WRB |
Yes, legal.
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03-18-2014, 10:57 AM | #954 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 139249
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Nice! Now I just have to figure out a rear roll center solution which doesn't involve an aftermarket subframe. Originally TSSFAB had told me he could make me a custom rear knuckle with the pivot point on the outside but now he is saying he doesnt have the time unless I get together a bunch of people who want them..
Any Other Street Mod guys looking for a rear rollcenter fix? |
03-18-2014, 11:32 AM | #955 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 80649
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Columbia, SC
Vehicle:2000 2.5 Auto-X RSTi Sparkly |
Quote:
Regarding the rear, you can modify the knuckle a few ways, but I'm not convinced yet that you want to. Using the bad geometry of lowering it to induce rotation in low speed situations while relying on aero to keep things in check in high speed situations seems to work well. There are some bar settings in there as well to get it right too. I have sketched a few designs out to see what would work, and I think it'd be relatively easy with a few hours of cutting and welding. Last edited by subydude; 03-18-2014 at 11:37 AM. |
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03-18-2014, 12:38 PM | #956 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 139249
Join Date: Jan 2007
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I used to run the GT spec roll center kit up front which is pretty much the same thing as the six gun. I had issue with the ball joints actually leveraging themselves out of the knuckle. They ended up egging out the material on the upright and no matter how hard I'd tighten them they would wiggle out again. I had to replace the front knuckles because of this. I like how LICs piece use a stock ball joint and gains the height with a fixed piece they weld in.
Interesting theory on the rear though I never thought of it that way. I'd love to see what you come up with. |
03-18-2014, 12:49 PM | #957 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 80649
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Columbia, SC
Vehicle:2000 2.5 Auto-X RSTi Sparkly |
Quote:
I can't give out all the secrets The best I can say is the solution lies in using diffs, arms, bars, and aero together. And this is still a "so far" comment. There may come a point where I figure out that I need more rear grip, in which case I'd build in better geometry. |
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03-19-2014, 07:25 PM | #958 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 142608
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Cute fuzzy cuddly kitten hell.
Vehicle:2003 Sonic Yellow Marginally well behaved. |
I have the whiteline kit...which is exactly like the ones you guys are talking about. Havn't had any issues with it so far, ball joints seem to be holding up well without any wierdness.
Only thing i don't like about the whiteline kit is that it's not a a lot of correction. My car isn't lowered that much, so it works. |
04-28-2014, 07:03 PM | #959 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 115961
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Lake Tahoe, NV
Vehicle:2005 Wide STi Wagon WR BLUE |
I didn't see anything in the rules mentioning dates on harnesses. Are you allowed to run an expired harness?
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04-28-2014, 07:10 PM | #960 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 330625
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:2006 WRX WRB |
Yes, and expired seats.
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04-28-2014, 07:50 PM | #961 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 115961
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Lake Tahoe, NV
Vehicle:2005 Wide STi Wagon WR BLUE |
Thanks. I thought so, but better to check just in case.
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04-29-2014, 10:12 AM | #962 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 142608
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Cute fuzzy cuddly kitten hell.
Vehicle:2003 Sonic Yellow Marginally well behaved. |
I'm pretty sure the only thing they check dates on for Solo is your helmet.
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05-26-2014, 11:19 AM | #963 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 231943
Join Date: Dec 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Columbus, OH
Vehicle:2011 Sti & '03 Bugeye |
So a bit of an update from me... I've finally had a chance to run my GR STi over the last week, sticking with street tires for local events.
Torque is great with stock turbo, but it'll need to breath a bit more once I get on some bigger concrete. As expected, I'm dealing with some wheel hop and power on understeer in the tighter corners (yeah, I know I need a real diff). I'm starting with square 315/30-18s and 900/900 lbs spring setup with oem front bar and 22mm rear on soft. By my calcs I wanted to start with 35% front sway roll stiffness and 40% rear. Slaloms are good, but would like to find a bit more front grip (relative to rear). I wanted initially to be at 40-45% rear bar roll stiffness, but I may also test a couple different extreme setups, including a high camber / high spring rate setup in the rear, just to see how it reacts. I also have the roll center right at ground level by my calcs, but I may try to lower it some more and see if I can handle the weird below ground feeling. Ultimately if it's faster, that's the "best" setup. While playing with different setup options, I need to save some pennies to get a rear diff, add a front splitter and lighter front hood to drop another ~40 lbs. Last edited by senna1a; 05-26-2014 at 11:26 AM. |
06-05-2014, 08:02 PM | #964 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 374438
Join Date: Nov 2013
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New to autox
hey guys Im new to Autocross and Ive raced twice in SM cause thats where they put me. Im running a 2011 wrx with stage 2, IC, BPV, EBCS along with sways and endlinks. Im on the stock wheels with ****ty all seasons and Im looking for a setup for summer that will also be good in autocross.
Im looking between the enkei rpf1 in 17x8 vs 17x9 and Im wondering if I would lose performance going with the 17x9 and what offset I should go with in the 17x9 so I dont get any rub. I like the look of the 17x9 better because of the way the tire dish seems flatter and more set in but Im not willing to sacrifice a lot of performance for what I think is a bit better of a look. I was thinking of doing 245/40 tires on the 17x8 and 255/40 on the 17x9. I talked to a guy that told me that between the extreme performance summer tires he thought the RE11 was the best when it comes to daily driving even tho u sacrifice some performance. Since its my daily driver I dont wanna go with tires that will be awesome for autocross but be super annoying to daily drive. Suggestions? |
06-05-2014, 09:53 PM | #965 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 331638
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Grapevine, TX
Vehicle:2010 WRX Black |
Quote:
Run as much tire as the rules and your fenders allow (sm allows slicks but that is a whole other level of commitment). |
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06-05-2014, 10:17 PM | #966 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 374438
Join Date: Nov 2013
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ok so 17x9 or 17x8? Looking to run street tires, I hate my all seasons so much I will probably goto summer/autox tires and winters later. Cant decide on 17x9 vs 17x8
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06-05-2014, 10:34 PM | #967 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 331638
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Grapevine, TX
Vehicle:2010 WRX Black |
17x9 and I am partial to the Dunlop z2, but they are getting tough to find since they have been discontinued in preparation for the new star spec version. Hankook rs3 are the next best street tire and you should be able to fit 265-40-17 without fender rolling.
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06-05-2014, 11:26 PM | #968 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 330625
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:2006 WRX WRB |
wider is better. For street tires I'd be considering 18x11s and 275 or larger RS3s if you're not afraid of your sawsall.
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06-06-2014, 08:17 AM | #969 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 351365
Join Date: Mar 2013
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh
Vehicle:2018 Subaru-less 1997 Integra GS-R |
Quote:
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06-06-2014, 03:13 PM | #970 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 374438
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Quote:
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06-06-2014, 04:09 PM | #971 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 351365
Join Date: Mar 2013
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh
Vehicle:2018 Subaru-less 1997 Integra GS-R |
+45 offset. Any lower offset and I think you'll have issues. I have 275's on 9" +45 RPF1's and it required rolling and a little pulling on the rear. I test fit 255's and they seemed to be fine.
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06-06-2014, 10:25 PM | #972 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 48377
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: "They eat fish soaked in lye"
Vehicle:1996 Gutted, built XP class Impreza L |
Quote:
The overall balance of the car was greatly improved and I was not torquing the chassis nearly as much in hard corners. That is essentially what is happening when the front and rear roll centers are widely different. You are down to using the chassis as a torsion spring. Not a good way to get optimal handling. |
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06-08-2014, 09:18 PM | #973 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 330625
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: MA
Vehicle:2006 WRX WRB |
Quote:
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06-09-2014, 03:18 PM | #974 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 80649
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Columbia, SC
Vehicle:2000 2.5 Auto-X RSTi Sparkly |
Interesting. So I'd be fixing the rear roll center, but then adding toe out to keep my rotation that I get now. Not super hard to do, just time consuming. I'll have to make sure to get the rear attachment points at least 1.5 lower than it is now to get it even close.
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07-10-2014, 11:15 AM | #975 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 211987
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Knoxville, TN
Vehicle:2004 STi PSM |
Hey guys. I wanted to regenerate some discussion on GC v GD chassis for an SM build. And the rulebook interpretations for a few issues.
I have a pretty decent SM build on my GD right now. The thing is- it's a low mileage chassis (so it has a great residual value still), and I am not really attached to the body style like I was when I bought it. Plus, it's slowly transitioned into this almost full SM build. So I'm wasting the value of the OEM car itself. So I've been considering swapping most all my parts (that will fit) over to a cheap GC shell, and selling the GD. Here are my questions: Where does ECU/full wire harness fall in relation to chapter 16 (SM) of the rulebook ? Part of "drivetrain-unlimited"? Can I use an entire GD harness and ECU with my swapped drivetrain on the GC so that I don't have to sell my v3 AP? Gauge Cluster: Am I not allowed to touch it? If I end up doing this swap, I'll leave my rebuilt '04 6MT in the GD and hunt for something new for the GC. Any suggestions for the "ideal" tranny? Looking for high speed 2nd and weight savings mostly. Also would pick up a rear diff... Does an item like the mapDCCD turn any transmission into a dccd capable one, or does it only piggyback on trans that already have dccd? Please forgive my lack of trans knowledge here. My CF driveshaft- will it work in the GC or is the trans to diff length way different? What about engine and trans crossmembers- are they identical and already on the GC or will I need to source another set from a GD and swap em? My plan for my AST4100 was to just get GC vorshlag top hats to replace my GD ones... And keep all my parts from my 5x114.3 swap. (Knuckles, rotors, wheels, tires, etc). Would need to grab new axles of course based on my trans choice. Ok. That's me talking out loud. Hoping some GC guys chime in on this. I can read and research swap info on my own, so sorry if I went too overboard with swap questions. More concerned here with rulebook on electrical systems and wiring, and how you guys went about it! Last edited by visibiliti; 07-10-2014 at 10:16 PM. |
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