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06-18-2020, 04:40 AM | #2451 |
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I've read something about fan controllers have a smooth start operation making them not ideal for fuel pump application
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06-18-2020, 07:08 AM | #2452 | |
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There is a seller on eBay, maybe in China, who sells the three pigtails IN a set for this controller. |
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06-18-2020, 08:37 AM | #2453 |
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True many are designed that way but there may be versions where the start up speed is controlled by the ecu. That's what I'm trying to find out. The one I got was dirt cheap, too bad I can't dissect it.
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06-18-2020, 11:47 AM | #2454 | |
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06-18-2020, 12:39 PM | #2455 |
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06-18-2020, 03:24 PM | #2456 |
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06-18-2020, 05:22 PM | #2457 |
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06-18-2020, 08:39 PM | #2458 |
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For anyone needing the female connector for the jaguar/landrover/volvo controller, Corsa-technic.com has them. It's a Yazaki brand connector and the Yazaki part number is 7283-5577-10 and you can choose the wire size for the terminals.
That's the connector that was discussed in the post discussing the controllers, and it appears to be the same design. They are a good company, have bought many connectors and other wiring supplies from them. Last edited by 2slofouru; 06-18-2020 at 08:52 PM. |
06-19-2020, 06:10 AM | #2459 | |
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Quote:
The ecu does output a PWM signal at 100Hz to the controller, so should be easy for any ecu to do. Can't comment on it's response or current abilities etc though. http://solidstaterelaystore.com/pe0675.aspx Only just looked at the data for that SSR there too....so strange it's suggesting 12kHz for it ? When a Crydom DC Series is only 1kHz max, and that's for lower current versions. The Chinese stuff even lower again. Even the little Hella plug in relay SSR is 1kHz max. What on earth are they doing different to allow 12x that ? |
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06-21-2020, 10:17 AM | #2460 | |
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06-21-2020, 11:16 AM | #2461 | |
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If that's the case, why didn't you share the part number here when someone was asking? All it took me was a few seconds checking Corsa to realize they were suppliers. I'm sure Corsa would like to unload them if you're the only buyer. I posted it to help others because it seems they were trying to find it yet no one was replying...when there is an easy source. Last edited by 2slofouru; 06-21-2020 at 11:21 AM. |
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06-22-2020, 10:28 AM | #2462 | |
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Do you bash iWire for not supplying manufacturer PN's for all their connectors? Feel free to buy from Corsa though... they're great people and I love working with them. |
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06-22-2020, 07:59 PM | #2463 | |
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Maybe install one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/PWM-To-Volt...G/402297095956 at the knob/voltage input of a generic high current motor controller like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-24V-...r/323548812617 . The device converts a pwm signal to an analog 0-5vdc, which is what the motor controller expects.
I already have a 60a version and may grab one of those converters to see if it works, but am not sure I could calibrate the converter properly. Seems like a fairly simple solution for someone wanting a controller that can handle more than 15-18 amps of fuel pump, then again the converter could be glitchy and cause issues. Quote:
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06-23-2020, 12:34 PM | #2464 |
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I think when I looked into the Chinese controllers ages ago, I did find the sort of thing you refer to....but also sure their response times to changes were in seconds. Lots of seconds....not milliseconds etc.
Really, it's great wanting to use a "proper" controller etc....but the SSR just plain works. |
06-23-2020, 09:42 PM | #2465 | |
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The generic fleabay/China controller I have reacts instantly...as in milliseconds. There is no soft start reaction, it responds as quickly as the knob is turned. The digital to analog converter may take longer than the actual motor controller, but that's doubtful, as there would be no need for a soft start function. I don't have a converter (yet). The only way to find out if the D/A converter is compatible would be to try it. I'm not trying to be the first to do it, or claim I'm the first. Obviously if it's something I've considered, there is a major chance someone's already done it. Of course maybe they want to keep it as an advantage, but for something like this it's pointless. Looks like I need to find a signal generator for the specific function of figuring out a few controllers. Gasoline fuel pumps will all become brushless eventually anyway. Then when cars all become electric, we won't even be concerned with fuel pumps. Luckily that will be quite a while, so at least we can enjoy or dinoburners for the foreseeable future. Last edited by 2slofouru; 06-23-2020 at 09:53 PM. |
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07-01-2020, 11:29 AM | #2466 |
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Decided to go with the jag controller
got a pair to have a spare, and the harness, came out to $100 for everything what is the max amp current they can handle? wondering if I can use it to drive my Spal fans |
07-01-2020, 08:26 PM | #2467 | |
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Supposedly the NZEFI ones are just rebadged oems. Somewhere on this page it states 18a max for the NZEFI "version" so that's probably a safe bet. Barge has been running his a while, he probably mentioned it in this thread as well. Last edited by 2slofouru; 07-01-2020 at 09:58 PM. |
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07-03-2020, 09:05 PM | #2468 | ||
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I connected a volvo fan controller and it seems to be full at 5-10% duty and tapers off to zero as duty cycle passes 90%. This was with a 95-160hz input signal. At max speed with two cheap ebay fans and an oem three wire fan and it is drawing just over 23 amps at 12.3v output and barely warm to the touch. This one would be a good alternative to the oem fan relay setup. Spool up to full speed takes almost two seconds so yeah not good for fuel pump control. I also tried the jaguar controller and at 14% duty it maxed at about 22 amps with voltage maxed out at 10.7. To turn it off you just drop below 14% or gradually taper down to 76%. This was with a 280-300hz input signal. The temperature felt about the same as the volvo fan controller, but just used my hand and no actual thermometer. I'm not sure why it wouldn't go over 10.7v, unless it's designed to limit current output, or it could be something I'm doing wrong with the pwm controller. Just tested the ebay knob adjusted controller and at full clip it is handling 25.8 amps at 11v. ?? Not sure why the current is that much higher. Maybe the switching frequency of the controller has something to do with it. The mosfets don't seem to be warm at all. It's possible all three controllers with output higher voltage with a running vehicle making 13+ volts. My power supply is designed to hold at 12.5, so 11v controller output isn't a huge drop. The pwm controller may not be configured correctly, just got it a few days ago and haven't tried it on anything else. Still awaiting the pwm converter to test the cheapo ebay speed controller via pwm. Last edited by 2slofouru; 07-03-2020 at 10:22 PM. |
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07-04-2020, 05:35 AM | #2469 |
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One thing I didnt measure when I was testing my methanol pump qt various frequencies via the SSR was current
But at higher frequencies the pump just didnt seem to be able to move any water at lower duties. So I'd say frequency used will definitely play a role in how much current is drawn, although do not know what the interaction will be. |
07-05-2020, 01:01 PM | #2470 | |
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The SSR is designed to pulse at the frequency you input, so if you input a 1khz signal, it will output a 1khz signal. It is basically a mosfet or hexfet transistor with a circuit to protect it and a heat sink. For some reason they design them to switch at a max of 1khz but obviously mosfets are very fast devices, strange someone doesn't design a circuit to use them for what we need. |
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07-05-2020, 01:07 PM | #2471 | |
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But it would be a PWM signal into the controller at 100Hz...and then it will output whatever it does. But the likes of the Crydom DC series I use is designed for DC loads, it does work for what we need and are available in up to 100A rating. Although as I mentioned a few posts back, the SSR someone else linked, in their literature they state 20Khz max, although I do find that hard to believe when no other SSR even comes close to that. I guess only buying one and testing would show if it really does. |
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07-05-2020, 03:49 PM | #2472 | |
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07-05-2020, 04:52 PM | #2473 |
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Buying **** is easy....using it is a different matter lol.
And I buy far far far too much **** ! |
11-01-2020, 03:40 AM | #2474 |
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Question on line split to the fuel rails in the engine bay, I have seen different Y-adapters, one is 8AN in / x2 AN6 out, or 8AN in / x2 AN8 out
as I am upgrading to AN8 feed, should I do it right up to the fuel lines? |
11-01-2020, 06:34 AM | #2475 |
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Unless you're making a huge amount of power a -6 to each rail will be plenty, and certainly the smaller diameter hoses..and in teflon can make routing around the engine bay easier.
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