Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday April 22, 2021
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-19-2020, 03:02 PM   #251
2dino
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 41907
Join Date: Aug 2003
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by after5hock View Post
Hey guys,

I made a video of the process and parts I came up with. I have the grimspeed brake master cylinder brace, circuit clutch master brace, ITS mount, and newly updated version of the clutch pedal assembly, and the firewall still ripped on me.

I did not remove any part of the dash, done 4 in 1.5 hours with video capture.

Have a look if you are bored and would like to save the hassle of removing the dash or using rivets, both of which personally scare me: https://youtu.be/oPMx7MprzFM
Hello after5hock,
That's a brilliant idea with the hollow set screws.
Guess you are from Canada as you use km in video .
If so would you mind sharing when did you buy the screws in Canada? I have failed to find any in Ontario.
Thanks in advance.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
2dino is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 01-19-2020, 11:27 PM   #252
after5hock
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 435931
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: BC, Canada
Vehicle:
2009 WRX STI
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dino View Post
Hello after5hock,
That's a brilliant idea with the hollow set screws.
Guess you are from Canada as you use km in video .
If so would you mind sharing when did you buy the screws in Canada? I have failed to find any in Ontario.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Dino,

Thanks for the kind words. I hope others have a great time with the install. I had a blast knowing I was getting rid of that horrid sound, the top two welds popped on mine, and you can see the bottom ones deforming already. Glad I did mine when I did. Driving without clutch or brake is unimaginable..

I can't stress how much of a breeze the install was compared to the other methods I've heard/read. I wish I did this years ago before I spent all that money on braces that did jack all for me.

I have the kits for sale now for a small profit, $69 USD for the hardware, wire, and step by step instructions, another $39 USD for the drill bit, sealant, and loctite.
$10 USD shipped to Canada, and $15 USD shipped to USA.

To be clear, I'm really not making bank on this, or plan this to be my day job, I just thought I could save other people lots of time.

I can send you a paypal commercial invoice if you are interested.

Cheers,
Peter
after5hock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2020, 09:46 AM   #253
2dino
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 41907
Join Date: Aug 2003
Default

PM sent.
2dino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2020, 12:48 AM   #254
after5hock
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 435931
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: BC, Canada
Vehicle:
2009 WRX STI
Silver

Default

Thanks Dino!

Hi everyone,

Here is the spot weld replacement kit's home: https://www.humblerumble.ca/

Thanks for your time

Cheers,
Peter

Last edited by after5hock; 01-31-2020 at 11:36 PM.
after5hock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2020, 01:29 AM   #255
viper_crazy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 298403
Join Date: Oct 2011
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Vehicle:
2008 WRX Premium
Spark Silver

Default

Deleted
viper_crazy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2020, 07:59 PM   #256
TEK112
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 218140
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: PA
Vehicle:
2009 WRX Prm Sed DGM
Know my friend Hiram?

Default

I just wanted to share my experience. it has been a very long time since I've posted anything. I have a 2009 WRX with just over 64,000 miles. I know, low mileage, please don't judge. Anyway, the squeak started about eight months ago and then a clicking sound. I took it to my local mechanic because I was about to have a clutch installed. He said something wasn't right about the pedal feel. To me it seemed normal, because I've been driving the car for 10 years. It progressively got worse.

I did my due diligence and hit the forums. I saw the spot weld issue which I checked for back in 2013 when the issues first arose. I did the tests and saw the clutch master cylinder move about an inch and a half with each clutch depress. The most terrifying part was looking at the brake pedal which moved almost 2 inches laterally to the left with each clutch depress.

I ended up going to my dealer and brought the TSB. On their own, they contacted Subaru of America who offered to cover it free of charge as Goodwill. I asked them to do the clutch at the same time and saved about $300 because some of the work is crossover and saved me on labor.

I was honestly floored. Regardless of the mileage, it is a ten-year-old car. Subaru took care of me.

I hope this helps people and they may try going to the dealership first, or contacting Subaru of America on their own.
TEK112 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2020, 01:32 AM   #257
2dino
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 41907
Join Date: Aug 2003
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by after5hock View Post
Thanks Dino!

Hi everyone,

Here is the spot weld replacement kit's home: http://humblerumble.mystrikingly.com/

Thanks for your time

Cheers,
Peter
A bit of update. Looks like I had been barking at the wrong tree.

Found only one top weld was cracked. I proceeded to used Peter's kit to repair it and also to reinforce the adjacent one. The kit indeed made quick work of the job and saved my back and neck big time.
There was, however no improvement to the sqeaking sound .

I dove back into the footwell again with a bright light and mirror and eventually found a hairline crack around half of the horizontal outertube that houses clutch pedal spindle. The tube flexes/wriggles at each clutch pedal application and the nearly invisible crack will open up, in harmony with the squeak!

Need to get a replacement pedal assembly

Last edited by 2dino; 01-27-2020 at 01:33 AM. Reason: spelling
2dino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2020, 01:53 AM   #258
after5hock
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 435931
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: BC, Canada
Vehicle:
2009 WRX STI
Silver

Default

Hey Dino,

I had the same issue, crack at the support tube in the pedal assy. Had to get the assy replaced with 36004FG050, and installed the ITS pedal bracket at the same time. In my opinion the ITS bracket should help the same support tube failure from happening to a new pedal assy. But it doesn't prevent the spot weld failure (unlike the advertising says), as the failure happened to me 10k kms down the road.

I'm glad you got the kit and it worked well for you, it's one less thing to worry about on your car once spot welds go, they go quick as all the force are concentrated on the next spot weld.

Thanks for the kind note and good luck with your pedal assy

Cheers,
Peter
after5hock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2020, 02:15 AM   #259
Deek
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 145458
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Coachella Valley
Vehicle:
2008 rdkls STi

Default

Inspected my clutch plate spot welds for ****s n giggles since I have everything apart anyways, sure enough they were on their way out. Had the Humble Rumble hardware kit ready to go just in case, which paid off.

Super painless install and while I may have been able to source the hardware myself, the kit made it super convenient.

https://i.imgur.com/Du5f2rq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VzN3C51.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uk9lmb7.jpg

Last edited by Deek; 02-11-2020 at 02:21 AM.
Deek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2020, 03:47 PM   #260
lupohki
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 3457
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Kyotango, Japan
Vehicle:
2008 STi
DGM

Default

Hey guys, thought I would share my experience with this issue and what I did to fix it. My clutch and brake pedals were making intermittent clicks. Checked my firewall welds and one of the top two were out and the other one was going out. I bought the following items:

Vented hex bolts from Amazon for ~$7 (any type (just not headless) of vented fastener would do - i just got what was cheapest then)
Mechanics wire, red loctite, and clear sealant from Harbor Freight for ~$8
Washers and nuts from Home Depot (I got stainless - probably not needed though since the sealant is slathered on everything) ~$5

It's the same idea as humble rumble's kit for installation by using the mechanics wire to fish the vented bolts through the hole. I did do the extra step of Dremeling a slot on the end of the bolts so you can use a flathead screwdriver to keep it from spinning when tightening it down. Also, I just used regular flat washers and red loctite on the nut. No more clicks after the install.

Last edited by lupohki; 03-25-2020 at 03:55 PM.
lupohki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2020, 09:57 AM   #261
gabriel.atienza
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 501470
Join Date: May 2019
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Alabama
Vehicle:
2008 STI
White

Default Another victim of the spot welds

Well,
I know how it probably happened, high cycle fatigue, I daily drive the car and probably had 60 clutch presses on my commute, some quick math that about 270,000 times in a 3 year span.
So I let it got for 40+ thousands miles until recently not only the clutch made sound but the brake pedal clack and creek. That scared me, so while in "social distancing" took on this project while working from home.

After disassembly I had 6 out of 8 welds broken. I went with 6mm flange bolts and nuts from mcmastercarr. To stay with 10mm sockets for most bolting (a most have if you ask me). The reason I went to flange bolt was to spread the stress, the original weld was about 5mm wide, and the fact the it broke around the weld tells me the base material failed. So spreading the load on a 13.5 mm diameter surface. I hope this extends the fatigue life enough that I don't have to worry about this again.

Some tips and tricks,
-An old machinist trick, use self tapping screws as pilot drill bits, if they get dull throw them away, grab another one until a screw is in. Then remove it.
-Don't beat around the bush, take the dash out.
-Moving the body control module, fuse box and a few other harness out of the way will help. Get better access to the top of the pedals. I cut the insulation in a few places.
-Remove the driver seat, put something down so you don't get stab from 2 screws sticking up under the carpet
-Use loctite, you down want to be in here ever again.
-If you plan to install a aftermarket stereo with navigation, etc. This is a perfect time. You can easily run you microphone cables, speed sensor, ebrake, etc.
-It takes a few days.

If you are reading this, we feel your pain.
gabriel.atienza is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2020, 05:54 PM   #262
gregnauman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 97453
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Kansas City MO
Vehicle:
2013 STI Hatch
Satin White Pearl

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gabriel.atienza View Post
Well,

I know how it probably happened, high cycle fatigue, I daily drive the car and probably had 60 clutch presses on my commute, some quick math that about 270,000 times in a 3 year span.

So I let it got for 40+ thousands miles until recently not only the clutch made sound but the brake pedal clack and creek. That scared me, so while in "social distancing" took on this project while working from home.



After disassembly I had 6 out of 8 welds broken. I went with 6mm flange bolts and nuts from mcmastercarr. To stay with 10mm sockets for most bolting (a most have if you ask me). The reason I went to flange bolt was to spread the stress, the original weld was about 5mm wide, and the fact the it broke around the weld tells me the base material failed. So spreading the load on a 13.5 mm diameter surface. I hope this extends the fatigue life enough that I don't have to worry about this again.



Some tips and tricks,

-An old machinist trick, use self tapping screws as pilot drill bits, if they get dull throw them away, grab another one until a screw is in. Then remove it.

-Don't beat around the bush, take the dash out.

-Moving the body control module, fuse box and a few other harness out of the way will help. Get better access to the top of the pedals. I cut the insulation in a few places.

-Remove the driver seat, put something down so you don't get stab from 2 screws sticking up under the carpet

-Use loctite, you down want to be in here ever again.

-If you plan to install a aftermarket stereo with navigation, etc. This is a perfect time. You can easily run you microphone cables, speed sensor, ebrake, etc.

-It takes a few days.



If you are reading this, we feel your pain.


No way I would take the dash out after a few people came up with kits that make it easy ***129335;***127996;****9794;***65039;
gregnauman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2020, 04:14 PM   #263
tqrecords
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 205162
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region: VIC
Default

Used the Humble Rumble kit which was awesome, squeak still there....FML

After inspection (which I should have done more of), it looks like I have the dreaded hairline fracture in the metal tube from the pedal assembly. Either way, reinforcing the firewall seems the have the benefit of a more secure pedal feel. Or maybe it's just in my head...
tqrecords is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2021, 08:06 PM   #264
Rallyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 521853
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Western Canada
Vehicle:
2008 STi
White - Gold wheels

Default New owner of '08 STi, knew I'd have to do the bracket

Just purchased a pretty much mint '08 STi with 104,000 km on the clock. Went into this knowing there was a strong possibility of this needing repair from all the pre-buy research I did. Clutch wasn't creaking and brake pedal had minimal movement, but looking how it was made, it's inevitable with all of these cars.
Removed the cowl cover and the top rivets were cracked. 1 of the bottom ones was starting to go as well.
Took about 3 hours to repair, didn't want to rush. Removed the DS side dash panel and the lower dash panel. From there with a long extension I could get to the top rivets after drilling them out, 1 at a time. Used 1/4-20 bolts with fender washers. Added an extra bolt between them, so now there are 3 securing points at the top. 1 rivet had barely caught the top edge of the bracket. Terrible engineering design, way under built as well.
The lower rivets were next to impossible to reach, so I drilled 4 bolts out so I could fish them into place with mechanic's wire. Would have bought the well done HR kit, but had it apart and couldn't wait for parts.
Coat it all with white sealant to keep the moisture out.
Not terribly difficult, just a bit time consuming. Upside there are no wiring harnesses in the way to damage. Definitely a must-do for any of these vehicles.
I took photos, may link them sometime

Last edited by Rallyquest; 01-22-2021 at 08:23 PM.
Rallyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2021, 01:59 PM   #265
ProdriveWRC
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 20779
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Peoria, AZ
Vehicle:
2012 STi
WR Blue

Default

+1 for the Humble Rumble kit. I didn't have any cracked welds but my dash was out so reinforcing it now just seemed to make sense. I only did the top two welds.

There aren't any wiring harnesses that go directly behind the top bolts, but there is a plastic harness strap that you'll drill through so make sure the inside bolt sits flush against the firewall. I was able to set it by hand but without the dash removed it could get frustrating.



ProdriveWRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2021, 06:22 PM   #266
AreExSeven
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 201662
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: earth
Vehicle:
89 RX-7
Blue

Default

Does anyone know the part number for the bracket that holds the clutch pedal assembly? I tried sport subaru of orlando and they have no idea what I'm trying to explain. They think I'm trying to buy the braket that holds the pedals to each other. And for that I have to buy the pedal assembly but what I want is what the assembly bolts on to. Mainly because the previous owner drilled out all the spot welds and installed rivets. Except the rivets arent long enough. So now everything is lose and my pedals shift left and right as I push on them. Seeing how I have 5 or 7 holes with stress cracks all around, I'd like to buy a new bracket so I dont have to fill in holes and such.

Anyone? Part number for the weldable bracket? Purdy plz
AreExSeven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2021, 08:17 PM   #267
AreExSeven
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 201662
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: earth
Vehicle:
89 RX-7
Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_gunn View Post
FYI - my rivets are holding up well (though it's only been 2.5 months) and it doesn't require removing the dash.
EVERYONE!!! For the love of god.... DO NOT RIVET THIS PART AT ALL.

Scott bro, this didnt hold up at all. When I bought the car from you the damn thing was sketchy and you said I can grease up the springs for the noise and change out the slave because engagement was low. After searching and researching, and finding out what you did to the car on accident, I bought a welder (never welded anything in my life) took the dash and everything related off, only to find out you completely missed the spot welds and the rivets didnt "rivet" on the back side. A simple "hey man you may have to weld the bracket that holds the pedals together" would of been great. I wish I can post pics on here but I dont know how -__-
AreExSeven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2021, 02:52 AM   #268
Vancouver98STi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 459287
Join Date: Dec 2016
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Vehicle:
1998 JDM Impreza STi
V4 GF8 White

Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by AreExSeven View Post

I wish I can post pics on here but I dont know how -__-
NASIOC image host
Vancouver98STi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2021, 08:24 PM   #269
Doug05WRX
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 78155
Join Date: Dec 2004
Default

Another vote for the Humble Rumble kit. Had it for about a year and finally got around to doing it. All 6 spot welds were starting to crack, so it was a good time to do it. Took me a few hours, the weld closest to the driver's side gave me the most trouble. I had difficulty drilling at the proper angle on that one so the bit kept sliding. Ended up making a slightly larger hole than I needed, so I was very generous with the sealant around that one. All in all a few hours well spent
Doug05WRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2021, 03:38 AM   #270
subiscoobie
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 518043
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Colorado,Europe
Vehicle:
many STI (3)04,08,14
Blk, Wht, Red, Grn, Slvr

Default

Hi. Whoever put rivets in the firewall was stupid(scott_Gunn). Sounds like a quick sale.
You can go to rally sport direct and buy brackets for the clutch and brake MC. Torque solutions clutch MC brace: TQSTS-SU-568(RalleySportDirect)$184, and GrimmSpeed Brake MC brace: GRM 091029 $95(Ralleysportdirect), and also, "HumbleRumble.ca" for the spot weld fix with instructions and how to video. I also have all of this on my car.
Best of luck

Last edited by subiscoobie; 03-01-2021 at 03:48 AM.
subiscoobie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2021, 03:03 PM   #271
foom
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 243868
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:
2008 Impreza WRX HB
Dark Gray Metallic

Default Humble Rumble kit

I would recommend humble rumble. Finally did mine a few weeks ago and no more huge brake pedal when pressing down on clutch. The best thing is no clicks or squeaks.
foom is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2021 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.