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Old 05-02-2016, 11:22 PM   #1
Unabomber
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OMGHi2U 2015+ STI steering rack in a 2004 WRX Wagon

So what had happened was....a few months back I got a new motor and notice a huge amount of gook on my power steering pump. So that was replaced while the motor swap happened and I thought everything was fine because with any good leak, it tends to flow down and wick everywhere, which is what I thought all the gook on my engine cradle was from. I cleaned it all up, installed the motor and sallied forth. During oil change #2, I noticed a whole bunch of gook again. Damn it, I need a new rack.....new and pretty PS pump (Chinese $29 replacement but still), fluid level low, rack and associated area all gooky again.

So like the huge idiot I am, I decided to put in an STI steering rack once I found out that the price would essentially be the same. Then I learned that the new thing all the kids were doing was the 2015+ STI rack as its a 13:1 ratio. So I started researching the bejesus out of the topic, bought parts, threatened vendors, saw my pimp, and scheduled a timeline of events. Here are the tales as they happened and this can be used as more of a guide than a how to, so buckle up and enjoy!

My main sources for information were:


http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2681059
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2679348
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2601789
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspe...-post-1-a.html

Without these folks storming the beaches of Normandy as it were, this whole install would likely not have occurred. Now my tale begins:

Parts I used:


1. 2015 STI steering rack (sourced used on NASIOC $375 shipped for whole shebang)
2. STI solid steering knuckle ($70 shipped, sourced used on NASIOC) (optional item)
3. 2 RS inner tie rods ($70ish from local dealer who hooks a brother up YMMV)
4. M16/M20 threaded inserts ($100 from a guy who makes them in Cali)
5. Cusco steering rack brace CUS 692 026 ALHD ($55 from a local shop http://builtnotboughtauto.com/ as I have nekkid pics of the owner) (optional item)
6. Whiteline steering rack bushings KRS207 ($55 from a local shop http://builtnotboughtauto.com/ as I have nekkid pics of the owner) (optional item)
7. IAG HP power steering line IAG-ENG-5900 ($free.99 from the fine folks at http://www.iagperformance.com) (optional item)
8. Flat 4 Motorsport LP power steering line ($free.99 from the fine folks at Flat 4 via http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41713271) (optional item)
9. 2013 STI subframe ($free.99 from a super cool dude in Richmond, VA whom was visiting VA Beach and hooked a brother up). (optional item)

Now take a second to do the math on all that. Those lines are $100 a pop retail. This is a four digit proposition. I'm pretty sure you could get a new rack done at Firestone for less. Let that sink in.

WRX steering knuckle LEFT, STI steering knuckle RIGHT. See that janky plastic piece in the middle of the WRX one? That's a "bushing" that adds ten kinds of slop to your steering in a non-STI car. Perrin sells a doo-hicky that locks the janky plastic piece down, but for a few dollars less you can get a used STI solid shaft one...your call.

http://i.imgur.com/mHeSZvV.jpg

Cusco power steering rack brace LEFT, OEM brace RIGHT. -2 holes son!

http://i.imgur.com/M0yE8z9.jpg

Whiteline power steering rack bushings. I'm sure others make them too. With my method you use 3 bushings....2 that pop in the bolt mounting holes and one that wraps around the main steering rack body.

http://i.imgur.com/lhP49Yz.jpg

Hole install

http://i.imgur.com/84ykgrn.jpg

Body install

http://i.imgur.com/FYdRIFT.jpg

Threaded inserts. More on these later. Its hard to believe these little guys represent 2 $50 bills.

http://i.imgur.com/QBjG4fW.jpg

2013 STI subframe. This goes by 62 different names depending on which side of the Mississippi River you live on. Subframe. Steering rack cage. Cradle. Between the 5-8 guys installing this stuff, we settled on subframe.

http://i.imgur.com/Gc6emch.jpg

Subframe cover. Once again, non-official title as this is the bottom piece that protects the steering rack.

http://i.imgur.com/GBldERs.jpg

Power steering lines. I didn't want OEM and there were lots of stories of DIY options using XXX and YYY fittings followed by bickering and frustration as to Jegs part #453a vs. Earl's part #884.11, so I let Flat 4 and IAG do the heavy lifting supplying drama free lines.

http://i.imgur.com/rjSt592.jpg

My logic on this install was as follows:

1. I wanted to use the proper subframe as I did not want to waller out any holes in my current subframe and the proper one mounts the rack cleaner.
2. I wanted to use threaded inserts to solve the overall steering rack length issue on a non-STI width car vice hacksawing up tie rod pieces.
3. I wanted to use all the optional items and include a few that no one else has mentioned like pre-made power steering lines as there was some drama with lines and fittings seen.
4. I am a huge idiot so reading comprehension problems, mental lapses or wrong logic are admitted, so let's get over it OK?

Flow of pre-events

I started by trying to find a used steering rack as a new one is $750 or so from the dealer and there ain't much markup in that price. Finding a 2015+ STI rack at any price is a huge pain. Start this first...I found one on NASIOC but looked forever on eBay and other sources.

I also wanted to find pre-made lines, so I called up Rick and JJ at IAG, told them what I was doing and they were nice enough to allow me to not only test their HP line per se, but see if they would fit since I was doing something super odd. I also happened to stumble on Phil at Flat 4 at the last possible moment and saw he is the only company that makes a LP line and he graciously allowed a test/odd fit opportunity for me. I really liked these because I didn't want to use OEM (because race car), home made fittings/lines seemed to be wheel of issues/part numbers, and for whatever reason...aftermarket power steering lines don't get much love here.

The other hard part were the threaded inserts. These would be used to make the thin RS inner tie rods thicker to screw into the female STI steering rack. There's only one guy that makes them and I managed to get ahold of him at the right time and got his last set. These tie rods should be used on RS and wagons as they have a narrower track. If you don't use them, you have to custom trim the STI tie rods to reduce the length and while it can be done by those with skill, I wanted to avoid this and make the install as plug and play as possible. RS inner tie rod male size = M16, STI rack female size = M20, so you red loctite the M16 inside insert onto the RS inner tie rod, the blue loctite the now M20 size RS inner tie rod into the M20 STI rack.

The rest of the stuff was bought as normal though I did luck out with the subframe from a local facebook group.
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Last edited by Unabomber; 05-03-2016 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:22 PM   #2
Unabomber
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Install time

For the install, I hollered at www.andrewtechautomotive.com and they are used to my hairbrained ideas and installs, so this idea was not met with so much as an eye roll. While famously known for their transmission work, they do all sorts of other mechanical work so this was not outside their comfort zone nor would it be at any shop worth a hoot. And since I brought 100% of the parts, researched them to the moon and back, this should be a normal 2-3 steering rack job right? We started at 3pm and I was driving away at 10pm.

The before. Gook city. PS fluid eerrrry where. This shot was after a boot was yanked off, so that wasn't the source.

http://i.imgur.com/S2aLKFU.jpg

The before parts. Subframe painted by yours truly...simple green clean, etching primer, 2 cans of pink. On a scale of 0 to potato, I'll give it a french fry.

http://i.imgur.com/tkVj6zA.jpg

In quick order the under pan was removed, the jack plate removed, swaybar/mounts/endlinks removed, the U brace was dropped, the lower control arms were swung away and hands were put on the OEM steering rack lines to drain the system. And they were finger tight. Is this the reason for the gook and fluid loss? Was the whole install for naught? One will never know! Then the whole OEM subframe was dropped away. Things are going so far aren't they?

Naked of all steering/subframe stuffs.

http://i.imgur.com/hzkysau.jpg

Next came the assembly as logic said to put it all up in one piece. We yanked off the STI inner tie rods, red loctited the inserts to new RS tie rods, then blue loctited them inside the rack.

LEFT RS with inserts, RIGHT STI, no banana for scale

http://i.imgur.com/lpDt9Fj.jpg

Then the Whiteline stuff was added, the rack was added to the new subframe, and Cusco brace. Lines were bolted up with zero drama (protip: WRX PS lines are parallel, STI PS lines cross behind the pump...don't mix these up!) Nice little package.

http://i.imgur.com/piktirc.jpg

The only drama at this stage may not have a good solution. You see the PS boots are sized for the application, so the STI boots are too big around for the smaller diameter RS tie rods. The internet did not tell me this (bad internet!), so I did not prepare for it. We ended up worm clamping the boot ends. Would RS boots work better? We assume that the fat end would be too small and you'd have the opposite and worse problem, so maybe there's not super legit option here other than what we did.

Then we tried to bolt the whole shebang up and found out the mounting bolts weren't long enough. Once again the internet did not tell me this (bad internet!). It seems the new subframe is thicker by a good margin than the old one and requires longer bolts. With everything closed, we used transmission case bolts as Andrewtech has them by the hundreds.

Top is the OEM setup, two bolts connected to a bracket. Bottom is the transmission bolts that were the PERFECT length to do the job. So 4 bolts, 4 washers, and 4 nuts later, we got it up and it fit like a champ.

http://i.imgur.com/iKcf1Lm.jpg

Fitment level: Champion

http://i.imgur.com/ljujjul.jpg

Using some advice from an SOA rep that dropped by earlier, we hung the subframe/rack loosely and fought with the STI knuckle for a good long while. Much cussing was to be had as you move it up to fit on the steering column and it slides off the input shaft. You end up going back and forth like you are using a Shake Weight until you find the sweet spot then have to fight the janky C shaped brackets to bolt them tight. No pic of Shake Weight action.

Next ride of the drama llama came with inserting the knuckle into the slots of the subframe. The 04 knuckle was 1-2 mm too wide for the slot, so out came the persuasion hammer.

http://i.imgur.com/F750pSe.jpg

Last edited by Unabomber; 05-03-2016 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:23 PM   #3
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Then you just bolt up the swaybar mounts...

http://i.imgur.com/5qecRJh.jpg

Thanks again internet! They won't fit. So the sway bar mounts along with the swaybar and endlinks went into the back of the wagon until a solution presents itself.

Well let's put up the C shaped front subframe. But this time let's use 2 less bolts per side as the new style steering rack subframe lacks these holes.

http://i.imgur.com/TyOHkQc.jpg

And put on the plastic undertray as a final step....and just zip tie the end because the new style steering rack subframe lacks these holes too.

http://i.imgur.com/MgunaYu.jpg

Once all was buttoned up, a trip to the alignment rack was had as everything on the front end was obviously cattywampus. We are 99% sure that the new subframe added some camber to the front as the final front camber readings were near 1.5 though we don't have good before/after proof. And please...I'm no alignment dork, so lets not have a discussion on this point, I'm just repeating what the pros said.

Driving Impressions

Steering is MUCH firmer/harder. And not in a bad way per se, but it is harder to turn the wheel now. Causal factors are the new lines (HP and LP), bushings, STI knuckle, and rack itself. Which is the real cause, one can't say for sure as I did all this at once.

Steering input IS reduced. These videos do a better job of showing the reduction that I can say.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usMws-zcoaM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh6FY9Tq5Jo

Previous setup was all OEM + Whiteline steering rack bushings. There's no comparison between the two as input, response, and movement are all improved. Know how you whip the wheel back and forth when being dumb with friends? You are libel to hurt someone's neck now doing that.

Final Thoughts

If you are doing this in a daily driver you are 100% nuts as this is WAY over-complicated and way too expensive. I went full retard on this as no one has ever done this to a wagon, used the proper subframe, or used aftermarket PS lines that I am aware of. While the install started off good, once the subframe started to go in we started stepping on rake after rake at the shop. It seems all the aftermarket stuff worked as designed and went in flawlessly. Andrew specifically called both the HP and LP lines as brilliant ideas that reduced the normal OEM PS line drama by a factor of 100. That subframe though, while it didn't need to be wallered out like the older, non-matching subframe, it did present its own drama. I hope to sort out the mentioned issues and update this post as the better solutions present themselves.

If you are doing this because race car. Go for it as I'm sure it will improve your course control on autocross to HPDE event type folks that have a good degree of seriousness in their racing flavor. Your driving style will have to adjust to a finer level of course, but the steering response and input is WAY better with this new rack and supporting mods.

Now if you are one of those people that cannot, in good conscience, swap something out without upgrading, my advice to you is get an OEM replacement steering rack that fits your model year, and as your budget allows and as applicable: STI knuckle, Cusco brace, Whiteline bushings, IAG HP PS line, and Flat 4 Motorsport LP PS line. Upgrading the rack is just too much install drama, at least with the 13:1 version for older models. Yes, it can be done...but not something I'd recommend you do in your Cousin Jimmy's gravel driveway on a Saturday in the rain.

There also is an internet rap battle over the power steering pump. The 2015+ STI has a bigger/better/stronger/faster PS pump. So there are people online that opine that using the wrong PS pump with the 2015+ steering rack will cause the earth to fall off its axis, the moon will crack in two, and we will all ride big horses like in the cartoon Thundarr the Barbarian. I decided to throw caution into the wind and see how my $29 Chinese replacement PS pump would do, knowing that if it assploded, I would likely replace it with the 2015+ STI $39 Chinese replacement PS pump. So far, so good on the PS pump front, though I may hear more whine from it as you get to full lock than normal, but...my car is 13 years old and features ALL the bushings ever, so every noise is amplified, I was raised in a saw mill, and its hard to tell if that noise was always there or not. Others have the same opinion as me that the PS pump is a non-issue, but wanted to bring this up as a possible point of contention.

So this is what I did and I hammered out this post pretty quickly to keep the status dogs at bay or hopefully a day or two and I'll be updating this with fixes over the next week or three. My thanks to Sam, Andrew, and all the folks at Andrewtech for the install. This could NOT have happened in my driveway, and if not for your generosity, this would have been a non-starter so lots of people owe you a lot for this! Phil at Flat 4 and JJ and Rick at IAG. I showed you guys the bat signal and you unhesitatingly jumped on board with my nutty idea. Your products fit better than OEM, worked on my odd ball build, and impressed the heck out of Andrew whose natural emotion switch is on hater, so your products did very well.

So here's my post, standing on the shoulders of some GREAT friends...I hope you enjoy it and check back over the next few weeks for updates. Will answer questions/elaborate/defend my dumb over the next few days.

Last edited by Unabomber; 05-03-2016 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:51 PM   #4
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Omg I Want

SERIOUSLY. The only thing I want from my buddies launch edition is the steering rack.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:24 AM   #5
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Haha I think your write-up did discourage me a bit. I guess I'll wait a bit until a lot of the kinks are worked out. Maybe I'll get the opinion of a few local shop owners to figure out some solutions for the iffy parts of the install. Thanks Ron!
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:32 AM   #6
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Clear write-up from start to finish. There are some other geometry changed per the 08+ engine cross member LCA mounts that I'd still be concerned if it actually impacts the suspension or not. -> "We are 99% sure that the new subframe added some camber to the front as the final front camber readings were near 1.5 though we don't have good before/after proof." Perhaps just added negative camber after all.

The internet didn't actually fail you in a few areas...I bought an '08 cross member and compared it to a few GD versions awhile back.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3#post44092423

Last edited by JarHarms; 05-03-2016 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadSS View Post
Haha I think your write-up did discourage me a bit. I guess I'll wait a bit until a lot of the kinks are worked out. Maybe I'll get the opinion of a few local shop owners to figure out some solutions for the iffy parts of the install. Thanks Ron!
If you need the rack, its worth the trouble. I didn't need it. I did it because I've got some great vendors whom are friends that were willing to donate time and materials to a moron who lives in his mom's basement and wants to be cool on the internet. The only question is which route to take as there are several paths to 13:1 rack ownership....it's like a real life Choose Your Own Adventure book for your car!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Clear write-up from start to finish. There are some other geometry changed per the 08+ engine cross member LCA mounts that I'd still be concerned if it actually impacts the suspension or not. -> "We are 99% sure that the new subframe added some camber to the front as the final front camber readings were near 1.5 though we don't have good before/after proof." Perhaps just added negative camber after all.

The internet didn't actually fail you in a few areas...I bought an '08 cross member and compared it to a few GD versions awhile back.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3#post44092423
I sorta missed that post as it was around the internet rap battle over power steering pump use which I avoided. Wish I would have taken heed of the U joint bolt point though, but I can proudly say I have transmission bolts in my subframe now which is +10 hillbilly points.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:37 PM   #8
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great write up!
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Old 05-04-2016, 01:23 AM   #9
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OMGHi2U inspiration

Unabomber has done it again!!!!!!! This has inspired me to start looking for totaled 15+ STI steering racks. "Do I really need it?" No but these crazy little odd ball projects are my favorite kind when it comes to cars... I did the air pump delete already (not nearly as in depth as this). But yeah, when I get back I am going to be removing some parts for weight reduction and moving the battery and the washer res. to the hatch area.
Thank you Unabomber, and hope to see you around when I move back to VA beach area.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:49 AM   #10
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nice write up Ron. will likely attempt this with a hogged out subframe when I do it. the ps lines seem to avoid most of the hassles of sourcing parts.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:21 PM   #11
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Having LCA mounts in the subframe farther out would reduce caster by a bit. Not so good.

Having them higher would alter the roll center and anti-geometry, but possibly for the better depending on the ride height and rear control arm mount (I would hesitate to combine this subframe with an ALK, but an offset bushing at the stock height to only add caster would be a good idea).
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:43 AM   #12
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So I can blame you for my motor build being behind schedule...I see how it is.

Nice writeup. I will be doing a steering rack change in the near future as well, but I won't be going this far. 150k miles on the original, leaking, and I'd just like to have something better for the occasional local autocross.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:56 AM   #13
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If I stick with my GD wagon platform for the track car, I'll definitely be doing this. As always, excellent writeup and comedic enhancements, sir Unabomber. It's still vastly cheaper than some other options, but the PIA level doth increase.
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:40 PM   #14
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you just HAD to make it more complicated for yourself
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:23 PM   #15
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interesting choice of the subframe. With all the issues discovered by you (thanks a lot), I will lean towards hacking up a bigger hole on my oem subframe.

I love the PS lines. Depending on the price, I may just source it from those vendors. Originally, I was going to pay one of the trailblazers for this project to make those lines for me.

Why did you choose RS inner tie rods as opposed to WRX ones? Are WRX ones longer than the RS ones?
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Why did you choose RS inner tie rods as opposed to WRX ones? Are WRX ones longer than the RS ones?
The tie rod choices are:

1. Cut the STI tie rods to match the narrower track of a wagon body (or RS body as they both have the same narrow track). I don't like cutting, so I hard passed this option.
2. Choose to use the RS inner tie rods which solve the narrow track issue, but have thinner/smaller threads where they meet the steering rack proper. The fix for this is the M16 to M20 adapter which screw in. This seemed less sketchy as you literally spin them on, bolt them to the steering rack and then smoke cigarettes with zero fuss.

So, because wagon, I chose to use the RS ones which are the same length. I could have reused my wagon ones, but the thread pitch was off...I didn't think to measure, but I think they were M14.
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:55 PM   #17
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Ahhh, nevermind. I forgot about the wagon/sedan track width differences but thanks for the clarification/reminder.

In the other threads, this user TeamMoist made some adapters from M14 to M20 for this project as well.
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Old 10-26-2017, 10:49 PM   #18
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Bump because people on FB are asking how to do this and not searching the obvious places =P
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Old 09-28-2018, 06:51 PM   #19
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Because I love Ron and just felt like bumping this thread because I'm doing research:

From what I can find, of course with conflicting data:

02-04 WRX (04 STi?): 16.5:1

05-08 WRX and (04-08?! STi) are 15.5:1

08+WRX and 08-14 STi are 15:1

15+ STI is 13:1

Is this accurate good and kind sir?

It's not too often I pull my head out of engine and drivetrain bits. Thanks bud!
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:28 PM   #20
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Shoot, Ron doesn't even check the forums anymore...
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Old 03-21-2020, 11:11 PM   #21
bdubblu
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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2004 WRX Wagon
Stage 5.1.2a.2

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Part # correction for original post

Whiteline Rack & Pinions bushings are KSR207 (vs “krs” in original post)

Not that a monkey couldn’t find it, but just for accuracy....
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Old 05-11-2020, 12:54 AM   #22
shapobog000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Ahhh, nevermind. I forgot about the wagon/sedan track width differences but thanks for the clarification/reminder.

In the other threads, this user TeamMoist made some adapters from M14 to M20 for this project as well.
Does anyone know if you can widen the wagons track to sedan specs? would sti LCA's achieve this?
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:03 AM   #23
snow_bound26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shapobog000 View Post
Does anyone know if you can widen the wagons track to sedan specs? would sti LCA's achieve this?


Yes. Been covered many times. Search is your friend.
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Old 05-11-2020, 02:02 PM   #24
shapobog000
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Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
Yes. Been covered many times. Search is your friend.
Thanks buddy. I'll give it a go.
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Old 06-13-2020, 09:10 PM   #25
bdubblu
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2004 WRX Wagon
Stage 5.1.2a.2

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Quote:
Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
Yes. Been covered many times. Search is your friend.


Just get GC8 lower control arms so you don’t have tire/ wheel fitment issues.
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