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Old 10-23-2020, 02:31 PM   #1
63Denied
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Default Help! Christmas tree lights after hub replacement

Hello All! I’m very new to the forum because my car has never given me problems! It’s a 2014 Subaru Impreza with CVT and 173,000 miles on it.

I had a classic bad bearing symptoms coming from the drivers side front bearing. Being fairly mechanical I ordered a new OEM hub from Subaru and watched Youtube for removal and installation. Went fairly straightforward. Getting the rusted hub separated was a nightmare but got it done. I had carefully removed the speed sensor to avoid damage. During the course of removal and installation I had the key turned to unlock the steering wheel so I could manipulate it and this drained the battery. After getting everything buttoned up I had to roll the car out of the garage to jump start it with my other car. Here’s where the problems start.

As soon as the car was started and I reversed it a foot all the lights came on. ABS, Hill Descent, Traction Control, blinking Cruise control and the CEL. I drove to the Autozone and put an OBD reader on and got a P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A.
I cleared the code and it came back right away when I started the vehicle.

After reading some posts online I thought I had some grease or rust on the sensor, so I removed it and it did have glob of grease on it. I took everything apart and cleaned it well. Put it back together. Same issue.

I figured I had damaged the sensor in spite of my care and bought a new OEM sensor and installed it. Same issue.

I also realized that the “Vehicle Speed Sensor A” is not necessarily related to the ABS speed sensors. So I replaced that on the tranny. Still nothing.

Now I’m at my wits end. If anyone has any ideas please help. Next stop is a Subaru service center and I’m worried about them effing me when they see the DIY hub repair.

Thank you everyone for your help ahead of time.
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:42 PM   #2
Jedi03
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how is your spacing for the sensor to the pickup/tone ring? also got these from google:

Defective vehicle speed sensor
Problem with the PCM
Short or open wire leading to VSS
PCM not configured for the tire size being used
Damaged drive gear
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Old 10-23-2020, 06:12 PM   #3
63Denied
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Thanks for the ideas.

On the 2014 hub the tone ring is a magnetic ring in the back of the hub. So the hub is fully seated and torqued, so as far as I know the spacing is ok.

- the speed sensor for the hub that was worked on was replaced with OEM new sensor in case I had damaged it during removal.
-not sure what the PCM is?
-the new sensor obviously has a new wire harness all the way to the connector in the engine compartment. Do you know how to test the wire from that point on?
-Tire’s are stock size
-drive gear as in the driveshaft from the transmission? Not sure what drive gear you refer to.
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Old 10-23-2020, 06:15 PM   #4
63Denied
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For some reason I think something got messed up between the sensor and the computer when the battery died and I rolled it backwards in neutral. I don’t know if it’s a position sensor that lost its timing, or I short circuited something while jumping the car to start.

Does anyone know why the warning lights all stay on even after disconnecting the battery or resetting the code with the reader?
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Old 11-11-2020, 03:55 PM   #5
allusernamestaken
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Default Vehicle Speed Sensor A Circuit Code

I'm having the same issue after performing the same hub and CV axel replacement on my 2009 Impreza. But I have another issue that came with the warning lights. The car went into a limp mode and will not stay idling and also red-lines at 4K RPM. It all happened at the same time once I started it for the first time after the hub replacement. I think its all tied together.

I even reinstalled the old hubs to see if the sensors didn't like the aftermarket hub's tone ring. My next try is installing the new ABS sensors.

I guess my question is, Why the heck did my car go into limp mode after replacing the hubs/axels?

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2020, 08:17 PM   #6
AliBenn
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Limp mode IMO bc speed/abs sensor not reading

In both the OP and recent bump
Appears the sensor reads the drv axle through the hole in the spindle
Axle nut loose for both u guys?
GL
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:58 AM   #7
CaptainSlowbaru
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P0500 means there is a code in the ABS. Since the ABS module cannot directly turn on the CEL, the ABS will send a signal to the ECM, and the ECM sets P0500, like a piggy-back. (The transmission works the same way in regards to the P0700 code.)

So, attempting to clear the P0500 never works because the code in the ABS is still there.

The easiest way to proceed is to do a "Cap Discharge"- disconnect the battery and touch the positive and negative terminals together. This will clear the ABS and ECM codes. Two possibilities from here: the codes are gone and everything is OK, or a code will persist because there is an actual failure somewhere. If that's the case, deal with that when (if) it happens.
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Old 11-12-2020, 04:38 PM   #8
allusernamestaken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBenn View Post
Limp mode IMO bc speed/abs sensor not reading

In both the OP and recent bump
Appears the sensor reads the drv axle through the hole in the spindle
Axle nut loose for both u guys?
GL
Axel nuts torqued. gonna go ahead and replace sensors...pricey!
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Old 11-12-2020, 04:39 PM   #9
allusernamestaken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainSlowbaru View Post
P0500 means there is a code in the ABS. Since the ABS module cannot directly turn on the CEL, the ABS will send a signal to the ECM, and the ECM sets P0500, like a piggy-back. (The transmission works the same way in regards to the P0700 code.)

So, attempting to clear the P0500 never works because the code in the ABS is still there.

The easiest way to proceed is to do a "Cap Discharge"- disconnect the battery and touch the positive and negative terminals together. This will clear the ABS and ECM codes. Two possibilities from here: the codes are gone and everything is OK, or a code will persist because there is an actual failure somewhere. If that's the case, deal with that when (if) it happens.
Cap discharge unsuccessful...new sensors ordered.
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Old 11-12-2020, 07:42 PM   #10
AliBenn
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Damn

I re-read your post couple times
Q
You replaced both hubs and axles?
If sohave you inspected closely the old axle with the new one?
Specially, where the ring that the sensor reads?
Let us know
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Old 11-29-2020, 06:37 PM   #11
09erImprezer
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Default Pull the specific C-codes?

On many subarus with digital odometer, you can try this procedure to pull the additional C-Codes to identify WHICH sensor is the problem.

1-2-3-4 Headlight on, 1-2-3-4 Headlight off, 1-2-3-4 Headlight on (repeat until you see codes displayed on odometer dash display) These must be done VERY FAST, immediately after turning key to RUN (not start) position. The 1-2-3-4 are the presses of the odometer reset button.

My daughter's 2009 Impreza had P0500 and was in limp mode (flashing cruise light, won't rev above 4k, etc)

Pulling the additional codes showed C0021, which meant passenger side wheel speed sensor. PO replaced driver's side, didn't cure problem.

Replaced the sensor and addressed P0026 Intake Control Valve Solenoid Circuit, Range/Performance Bank 1 (passenger side)

So we replaced the oil switch and the solenoid to be sure (new to her, so why not).

FIXED! No more limp mode, no more dash lights


If you can pull these additional codes, maybe we can help some more.

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-03-2021, 11:09 AM   #12
K.Linchpin
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BUMP. Curious to know what was found to be the problem.
I replaced the hub/knuckle assembly on my forester with one from a junk yard, since I couldn't remove the axle from the hub... seemed like a good idea at the time. After reassembling with new axle, went for a drive, same symptoms as OP.
Searching for similar problems lead me to this thread and another thread. I feel like the issue I'm having could be that my junk yard hub/knuckle assembly from the junk yard has a rusted out magnetic pickup for the speed sensor... as discovered in the thread I linked to by that thread's op. But as 63Denied has shown, he has replaced the axle hub with a brand new one. Makes me wonder 63Denied's problem is the new axle hub has a bad magnetic pickup ring. It also has me wondering if I replace my hub if that will solve the issues I'm having.
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Old 01-03-2021, 12:36 PM   #13
09erImprezer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.Linchpin View Post
BUMP. Curious to know what was found to be the problem.
I replaced the hub/knuckle assembly on my forester with one from a junk yard, since I couldn't remove the axle from the hub... seemed like a good idea at the time. After reassembling with new axle, went for a drive, same symptoms as OP.
Searching for similar problems lead me to this thread and another thread. I feel like the issue I'm having could be that my junk yard hub/knuckle assembly from the junk yard has a rusted out magnetic pickup for the speed sensor... as discovered in the thread I linked to by that thread's op. But as 63Denied has shown, he has replaced the axle hub with a brand new one. Makes me wonder 63Denied's problem is the new axle hub has a bad magnetic pickup ring. It also has me wondering if I replace my hub if that will solve the issues I'm having.
Did you pull the codes yet? It should even tell you WHICH WHEEL is the problem

Procedure: (from https://legacygt.com/forums/showthre...sh-271094.html )

The Procedure

Starting condition: key off, headlight switch off.

Steps 1 through 7 must be performed within 10 seconds.

1. Turn key to ON position. This is the normal running position, the click just before starting, when all the lights on the dash come on, but before you twist to START. Don't start the engine!

2. Within 3 seconds, turn the headlight switch ON.

3. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times.

4. Turn the headlight switch OFF.

5. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times.

6. Turn headlight swtich ON.

7. Press Trip/Odometer button 4 times. At this point, the DTC display will begin.
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Old 01-04-2021, 11:00 PM   #14
K.Linchpin
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Quote:
Did you pull the codes yet? It should even tell you WHICH WHEEL is the problem

Procedure: (from https://legacygt.com/forums/showthre...sh-271094.html )

The Procedure

Starting condition: key off, headlight switch off.

Steps 1 through 7 must be performed within 10 seconds.

1. Turn key to ON position. This is the normal running position, the click just before starting, when all the lights on the dash come on, but before you twist to START. Don't start the engine!

2. Within 3 seconds, turn the headlight switch ON.

3. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times.

4. Turn the headlight switch OFF.

5. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times.

6. Turn headlight swtich ON.

7. Press Trip/Odometer button 4 times. At this point, the DTC display will begin.
I will give it a shot. Thanks for the how-to. I saw your post above mine and briefly looked for the procedure, but gave up. I am in the process of getting the hub/knuckle assembly that was originally in my foz back on... the issue is the axle is stuck in the hub, so having a friend press it out. Should be able to get the original hub back on this wknd and go for a drive.
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Old 01-04-2021, 11:20 PM   #15
09erImprezer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.Linchpin View Post
I will give it a shot. Thanks for the how-to. I saw your post above mine and briefly looked for the procedure, but gave up. I am in the process of getting the hub/knuckle assembly that was originally in my foz back on... the issue is the axle is stuck in the hub, so having a friend press it out. Should be able to get the original hub back on this wknd and go for a drive.
Do you mean the wheel bearing and hub is stuck in the knuckle?

The axle is pretty easy to knock loose from hub. Use big punch on the end of the axle, it should move free.

If you're talking the wheel bearing and hub from the knuckle, get those 4 bolts out first. PB Blaster where the pieces separate. We put the bolts back in except about 1/4 inch.

Use old rotor to help steady the assembly on it's edge and with about 3lb hammer, strike each bolt head sharply. Eventually it will let go.

I just did two last Friday. The one came free from smacking the outer rim of the wheel hub (not reusing it anyways). The other I used some heat from a MAPP torch and Blaster and hitting the bolt heads as mentioned.

If you clean up the inside of the knuckle with a sanding drum and dremel or wire wheel, or whatever, you can put a new wheel hub back in pretty easily.

BE CAREFUL with the ABS sensors. They are almost DOUBLE the price of the fronts

The knuckles we got from the salvage yard for the rear...both were driver's side. Ugh. Trying to get another one for the Right with good bushings.

Good luck.
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Old 01-11-2021, 10:08 AM   #16
K.Linchpin
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Quote:
Do you mean the wheel bearing and hub is stuck in the knuckle?

The axle is pretty easy to knock loose from hub. Use big punch on the end of the axle, it should move free.

If you're talking the wheel bearing and hub from the knuckle, get those 4 bolts out first. PB Blaster where the pieces separate. We put the bolts back in except about 1/4 inch.

Use old rotor to help steady the assembly on it's edge and with about 3lb hammer, strike each bolt head sharply. Eventually it will let go.

I just did two last Friday. The one came free from smacking the outer rim of the wheel hub (not reusing it anyways). The other I used some heat from a MAPP torch and Blaster and hitting the bolt heads as mentioned.

If you clean up the inside of the knuckle with a sanding drum and dremel or wire wheel, or whatever, you can put a new wheel hub back in pretty easily.

BE CAREFUL with the ABS sensors. They are almost DOUBLE the price of the fronts

The knuckles we got from the salvage yard for the rear...both were driver's side. Ugh. Trying to get another one for the Right with good bushings.

Good luck.
Thanks for the suggestions man. So last wknd I gave the hub/knuckle assembly with the axle seized in place over to my friend. He took it to work and pressed it out. Said there was no way I'd get it out at home. I smacked on it with a hammer for days prior to giving up and giving it to my friend. He said the press showed 8 tons before it popped, the fixture the knuckle was sitting on was bowing, and the dust from the press went airborn when it finally popped. And it required several applications of the press to fully remove, so it fought the whole way.
To reinstall, I had to use a rotary tool to get enough room for the ball joint to fit. I think from pressing on it, the ball joint opening was ovaled out. The hole for the pinch bolt was certainly ovaled...
After getting everything back together, I cleared the codes and they just kept coming back. This time I was using a BAFX bluetooth OBD2 tool and the torque lite app (was previously using a harbor freight handheld unit). All it gave me was the same P0500 code that the handheld unit gave me. I went for a ride because I read somewhere that the codes will clear after driving...makes some sense because if it thinks it's a abs issue, how will it know it is working without the wheels turning? After 10 min of driving, I pulled over and attempted to retrieve the DTC codes using the manual sequence that you gave me. I tried it a bunch of ways but never got it to work. I think it might be for 08-13 subies only. Searching for a way to get them for the 14+ subies, I found a video.
Guy using the same BAFX unit I have but a different app. ActiveOBD, which appears to be subie specific? I installed the app and used it to read and clear the codes. Same P0500 code, but after clearing and restarting, the codes did not come back on. ... So problem solved! I am not sure what worked. Was it driving around, restarting the engine a bunch of times, clearing the codes with ActiveOBD? I don't really know. But I'm super glad it's resolved.
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Old 01-11-2021, 10:23 AM   #17
09erImprezer
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Default

Thanks for following up with your solution. I haven't tried to pull the codes on 14+ models, maybe something different?

Glad you were able to clear the codes! Some (other than Subaru) cars require ABS-specific code clearing, or long battery disconnects. Not sure if that was your case or not, but at least it works now

It's been a while since I've worked on Subarus. This 2009 my daughter just bought is the first since The 1986 wagon standard transmission died in the early 90's and it became a RidgeRunner, LOL.
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