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09-09-2020, 11:58 PM | #1 |
Subtly Outspoken
Moderator Member#: 238
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:OG05 STi 51E |
What Block would you use for Solid Rebuild
Short Story. 2005 STi 131k on the OE motor.. not really on its way out or anything. but at some point I would like to ReFresh it . Nothing wild. 20 PSi on the stock Turbo will be about it. A nice Solid Stage 2..
When the time comes I want to give the car a Freshening up on the engine. My thoughts are: -REman 257 Block with Forged pistons. -ACL Race Bearings utilizing the Stock Rods. Whatever the latest Craze for the Crank will be... -Stock Heads that will be refurbished to more or less Stock ..maybe a little port/polishing/gasket matching. -Upgraded Oil pump -Killer Bee oil Pickup *Already on my current Block Like I say, nothing to extravagant, Just want reliability well into the future. Is this a decent plan..or should I just get a Decent shortblock, IE S209/RA block, IAG, Std Dealer Shortblock??? What are the opinion of the masses. Thanks for your time.
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09-10-2020, 12:19 AM | #2 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 469585
Join Date: Jun 2017
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Vehicle:2009 STi White |
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09-10-2020, 12:20 AM | #3 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 326692
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Cda, id
Vehicle:2012 sti |
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Leave it alone till it blows up than get new oem block and run it. If you’re around 300wheel you don’t want forged pistons. Forged pistons are more reliable at higher power levels however don’t last nearly as long as oem cast more ptw causes extra wear to rings and bore. Also oem cast is plenty strong but brittle it will support lots of power however will not tolerate knock . nowadays with gdt cyl4 kit, relocated iat post ic, good fueling system and good tune stock blocks tend to do fairly good even past 350whp. |
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09-10-2020, 12:58 AM | #4 | ||
Subtly Outspoken
Moderator Member#: 238
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:OG05 STi 51E |
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Bill |
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09-10-2020, 01:50 AM | #5 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 326692
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Cda, id
Vehicle:2012 sti |
Quote:
Ra block is alright dont think its significant improvement especially in ring-land problem but not? Should be a little better right? however I would still wait till it blows up first. Another thing is you want a good tune not a guy that’s trying to make a number or bunch of torque down low a quality tune from someone who knows what they are doing goes a long way |
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09-10-2020, 02:39 AM | #6 | |
Subtly Outspoken
Moderator Member#: 238
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:OG05 STi 51E |
Quote:
Bill |
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09-11-2020, 01:29 AM | #7 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 487
Join Date: Nov 1999
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Houston TX
Vehicle:1998 /2005 STunIcorn Acadia Green USDM 22b |
SS
A wise Subie owner once told me: (Assuming you don't want a track car motor/turbo/fuel system ($$$) "Would you rather have a ***8216;Loadie' (TX term) build your motor with Forged EVERYTHING Or A block inspected by factory robots Unless you do everything yourself, choice is obvious |
09-11-2020, 11:44 AM | #8 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 469585
Join Date: Jun 2017
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Vehicle:2009 STi White |
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09-11-2020, 01:09 PM | #9 | ||
Subtly Outspoken
Moderator Member#: 238
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:OG05 STi 51E |
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Bill |
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09-11-2020, 01:24 PM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 149347
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Tolland, CT
Vehicle:05 LGT ,09 SpecB Black/silver |
FWIW, May 2012 I installed a new OEM ej257 in my Legacy GT wagon that has vf52 tuned at 21psi. That engine now has over 140,000 trouble free miles.
I did have some porting done on the stock heads so I have nice mid-range rpm pull. I do 7000 mile oil changes after sending a sample off the Blackstone labs. I use Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic oil and their firlters. |
09-11-2020, 01:44 PM | #11 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 433063
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09-11-2020, 01:47 PM | #12 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 215964
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Location: Omaha
Vehicle:2018 Forester XT Heritage Blue |
Might as well jump on the Legacy discussion. Original stock block running a BNR HTA 68 in the spec.B at 23 psi on e85 since 2011. 143,000 miles without issue. 355/375 on the virtual dyno.
With the right tune, the stock block will last a long time. e85 will increase the safety margin. |
09-11-2020, 02:06 PM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:2010 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
Build it with stock pistons but open the ring gaps to something more like 0.004-0.005"/inch of bore. You'll see a bit more blow-by but won't break ringlands. Stock crank and rods should be plenty but use decent bearings (as is your plan.)
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09-11-2020, 03:07 PM | #14 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 193940
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Location: Philly
Vehicle:2004 WRX STI Black RalliSpec Shortblock |
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09-11-2020, 03:45 PM | #15 | ||||
Subtly Outspoken
Moderator Member#: 238
Join Date: Sep 1999
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MWSOC
Vehicle:OG05 STi 51E |
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09-11-2020, 11:06 PM | #16 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 469585
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09-14-2020, 10:16 AM | #17 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 193940
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Philly
Vehicle:2004 WRX STI Black RalliSpec Shortblock |
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09-15-2020, 11:17 AM | #18 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 149347
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Tolland, CT
Vehicle:05 LGT ,09 SpecB Black/silver |
280whp 300ftlbs on a mustang dyno
Yes, it's all in the tune. I use [email protected] he first tuned the car back in 2008 on Cobb AP V1. When I had the machine shop rebuild the heads in 2012 they told me mine were the first set of these heads they had seen that didn't need any valves, heads had 154,000 miles on them. They still get at least one set of these heads a week to rebuild. All the local Subaru dealers as well as most repair shops use them. |
09-15-2020, 10:00 PM | #19 |
Big Ron
Super Moderator Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
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Did you read the Built Motor FAQ?
Forged pistons of a flavor that your builder likes. OEM rebuild of heads. Whatever bearings your builder says. No and then. You ain't going for 500, so there's no need for a 500 build unless you fall into some sort of deal. I got $0 rods for example, so I have built rods in my motor. All the rest of my motor is OEM new or rebuilt. No pickup tube, no blingy oil pump. Concentrate on the outside items that get ya and/or make sense while the motor is out: New Clutch Turbo/injector swap perhaps Full timing belt kit Full gasket kit Redo all the rubber on the engine Redo all the bushings Consider the getadomtune.com cooling mod Keep the motor simple and expand on what's around the motor. |
09-16-2020, 01:16 AM | #20 | |
Subtly Outspoken
Moderator Member#: 238
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:OG05 STi 51E |
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Hope you are well man.. Thanks for your input, I appreciate it. Bill |
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09-16-2020, 01:53 PM | #21 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 149347
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Tolland, CT
Vehicle:05 LGT ,09 SpecB Black/silver |
Oh yea, FWIW, the machine shop did some mild porting on my heads. They opened up the valve pocket and thinned the divider. Not sure if it made a big difference, but I do enjoy the mid-range pull.
I got that idea from this Forum back in the day. I told the machine shop, what I learned from here, he said that's all they would do to these heads, not open the port area. I told him I'd give them $300 worth of labor to spend on the head porting. |
09-18-2020, 01:03 AM | #22 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 487
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Vehicle:1998 /2005 STunIcorn Acadia Green USDM 22b |
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2 threads crushing my opinion? Ok fine Your opinion is just like a Mustang ....everyone's got one What's your deal philly? A Loadie is a shop that will promise you the moon and the stars and then close the following month No mention of incompetent dealership mechanics btw They are out there, just subrogated a Nissan Dealership for $5300 for poor workmanship on a XD Titan engine repair Robots inspect the block Loadies have been known to build blocks and screw over people Last edited by AliBenn; 09-18-2020 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Trying to give the kid a break |
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09-18-2020, 09:45 AM | #23 |
NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 198281
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Virginia
Vehicle:2005 WRX/STi WRB of course |
+1 for the RA/19+ block. The alloy is different and there were some additional changes made to the casting as well. On the internals, the changes were more marginal, but at your power level, you should be well within the limits; assuming a good conservative tune.
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09-18-2020, 10:29 AM | #24 | ||
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 193940
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Philly
Vehicle:2004 WRX STI Black RalliSpec Shortblock |
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Last edited by BlackFighter; 09-18-2020 at 10:36 AM. |
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09-18-2020, 12:29 PM | #25 |
Subtly Outspoken
Moderator Member#: 238
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:OG05 STi 51E |
Thanks everyone.. so far.. I like what KillerB is saying.. that makes sense.. I want my car to be reliable.. with about 300 AWHP to the ground. I know its achievable because I have done it before.. probably conservative.. as I want about 21ish lbs of boost. heads will be cleaned up with new springs.. don't want to give up the sodium filled valves and probably a mild to moderate port job/gasket matching etc. .. a higher volume oil pump to ensure the lubrication aspect is taken care of, the cyl 4 cooling mod, and a Kevlar timing belt. with OE pullys and Tensioner unless someone can convince me otherwise ... I wanted the better pistons *forged for the reliability.. but I am not convinced I 'really' need them.. for my goals.. The car is a ICON.. I recently got it back, as I was the original owner.. I let it go with 32k on the clock and it was a STRONG stg 2 car with 326/367 numbers.. I am just wanting to get it back into 'fighting' condition. I have a Grimmspeed Limited catted Downpipe going on .. *I am a HUGE fan of a Divorced Wastegate. I am trying to return the car back to Original condition as much as possible as I plan to keep this car well into future. Thanks again for your replies.. what was Hot in 2005-8 is completely different here in 2020.. so thats why I am gathering info.. Appreciate it
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