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08-21-2014, 03:02 AM | #26 | |
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Quote:
Remember, oil gets thinner as it warms up. A 30 grade oil at 25*c is 10 + times thicker than a 40 grade is at 100*c, and the engine runs just fine... so every time you start your car cold, your oil is wayyyyyy thicker than it is at operating temps, until the engine (and oil...) warms up. And it doesn't hurt anything... The UOA showing the factory fill oil thinning down to a mid 20 grade oil would scare the bejesus out of me if that was my car. Now, run the car HARD for any period of time, get the oil really hot, and how thin is the oil now...!?!? And I found this interesting... A Mustang GT uses 5w20 oil, like so many other engines now do... However, get one with the track pack option, and the oil spec'd is now 5w50. Not 5w30, or even a 5w40, but a 50 grade. Same engine...! Interesting...
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08-21-2014, 08:03 AM | #27 | |
Scooby Guru
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2015 WRX Used Oil Analysis Thread
Quote:
You have asked the $60,000 question because "higher viscosity" is not defined. What likely happened was that SoA missed this when they revised the owner's manual for the 2011 model year and removed the chart showing 5W-40 and defining severe conditions. And note that the manual states that "5W-40 conventional" is allowed for replenishment and that doesn't exist (although there is no "standard" for synthetic and it's basically a marketing term). -Dennis Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC |
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08-21-2014, 12:34 PM | #28 |
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It is interesting that the manual says "5W-40 conventional". Oops.
And geeman, to say a 30 weight is 10 times thicker @25C than a 40 weight @100C is like saying water is wet. No S*** it is! How about that 40 weight at startup in winter in the northeast region of the US? Would you run it then? That is not a good situation. The manual does have a bar in the recommended oil section that says "5W-40" but they really don't reference it. I would say I agree with the last post saying that the "track pack" Stang uses a higher grade because it's intended for for the track, hence the name of the package. That said, I would never run a 40 weight as a DD in this Rex unless I lived in a super hot climate or I was tracking my car for the day. EDIT: Not at least until I get the results back that prove a 30 weight synthetic is a bad idea in these engines. At that time, I will gladly stand corrected. |
08-22-2014, 10:38 AM | #29 |
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I'm at around 5k miles now. Did my first oil change at 3k. I currently have Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus. I couldn't find Ultra anywhere! t plan to run it for 3k and send it in for UOA. I'll tweak my intervals base on the report but not exceeding Subaru's recommendation for warranty purposes.
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08-22-2014, 11:24 AM | #30 | |
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Quote:
I bought my Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 on Amazon and picked up OEM filters and crush washers from the local dealership. http://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550040865-6PK-Ultra-Platinum-Synthetic/dp/B00JMCCGDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408721142&sr=8-1&keywords=ultra+platinum+5w-30 |
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09-01-2014, 01:26 PM | #31 |
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quantum13, did you end up sending in your sample? Did you get results back yet?
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09-02-2014, 12:39 AM | #32 |
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09-02-2014, 10:25 AM | #33 |
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I'm coming up on 5000 miles on my car and factory oil fill. I'm going to change it next chance I get. Zero consumption, looks clean.
I already have a jug of Mobile 1 5W30 ready (got a great deal) so per NASIOC my car should completely disintegrate any second now. I think I'll do at least two UOA's, factory fill@5k and this Mobil 1@5k. |
09-02-2014, 11:14 AM | #34 |
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i want to say if you ever get a great deal on Mobil 1 again - there is apparently a slightly heavier weight that they say works much better - i believe it is 5w-40 Mobil1 that you see much less hate for. FWIW - i'm running AmsOil XL 5w-30 so i got no skin in the game as far as Mobil goes. you might find mention of that other weight in the oil threads; im sticking with the best oil that still meets all the requirements in the owners manual. all that aside - seriously - your Mobil 1 will be just fine. do the UOAs - with fact based evidence you dont have to count on keyboard warriors!
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09-02-2014, 05:55 PM | #35 | |
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Quote:
For $10 each, I'll do virtual uoa's for you and come VERY close to Blackstone's results. I'll even throw in goofy comments at no extra charge. -Dennis |
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09-04-2014, 09:54 AM | #36 |
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Vehicle:2015 WRX Crystal Black Silica |
Performed 1st oil change on my 2015 Rex yesterday with around 1400 miles on the odo. Factory oil came out a nice poopy brown color and measured out to approx 5.5 qts so it seems no oil is being lost at this point.
I used oem oil and filter for this change. Interestingly it took closer to 6qts to get the dipstick to read full...anyone else notice that? I first filled exactly 5.4qts per the manual, but it was showing 75% between low and full, so I just added until the dipstick read full. |
09-04-2014, 12:44 PM | #37 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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09-04-2014, 01:06 PM | #38 | |
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Quote:
When I put exactly 5.4 qts into my 15 Rex it showed up just below half on the dipstick, which is fine. After driving around and letting the car sit for about an hour, I checked the oil and the dipstick showed up at the "full" dot/hole. This has been the case for all of my Subarus, including my WRX. I know that a little bit overfilled may be OK but from now on I would just stick with the 5.4 since it has worked for me. Just make sure you check your level after your engine is warm and has settled for a little while to be sure you didn't overfill it too much. EDIT: I also only used only OEM filters on my Subarus. Last edited by wiUFsh; 09-04-2014 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Filters |
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09-04-2014, 07:27 PM | #39 | |
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2015 WRX Used Oil Analysis Thread
Quote:
You can look at the other uoa thread or use google to search for WRX uoa's. They're all pretty much the same. All factory fills show high silicon from sealers and sand casted parts, moly will be high from assembly lube and the factory Idemitsu oil, ZDDP will be higher than the Idemitsu that you get from the dealer, and the viscosity will be a 20 grade. Some of the wear metals will still be high for the first 8-12k miles because that's how long it will take for a full break-in. Blackstone will tell you that the shearing isn't hurting anything and you've got a great wearing Subaru. $10 please! Edit: I googled and found this one: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2429369 -Dennis |
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09-04-2014, 08:06 PM | #40 |
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That search is for a 2013 WRX. Different engine. Please let this thread play out so we can figure out what oil is best in the 2015 WRX.
I want my $10 back. |
09-04-2014, 09:37 PM | #41 | |
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Quote:
Why risk it... oil = $ , engine = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. You get the point.....! |
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09-04-2014, 09:49 PM | #42 | |
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Quote:
Find a non- resource conserving 5w30, like Amsoil HDD 5w30, or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. Both are a diesel spec euro oil, and are far less likely to shear down. They are also at the thick end of the 5w30 allowable viscosity. All 5w30's are NOT the same... |
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09-04-2014, 10:24 PM | #43 |
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There are plenty of threads that already discuss what you seem to be an expert on. Please keep this to facts that have been proven from FA20DIT results from the WRX. Until we see some results it's all just speculation.
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09-04-2014, 10:29 PM | #44 |
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at this risk of this turning into an oil thread again - there ARE some RC oils that exhibit reasonable resistance to shear, such as AmsOil OE/XL. those meet all specs in the owners manual and do reasonably well in that department. but yes, in general i would agree that a non-RC oil will be less likely to shear down. AmsOil Signature is one of those...though the regular Mobil 1 5w30 is apparently pretty bad about that...but not all Mobil 1 weights are. i read through most of that disaster of an Oil Thread; the name calling there is embarrassing to the community so i wouldn't necessarily recommend it though there is alot of helpful info there on this topic.
Last edited by quantum13; 09-05-2014 at 09:43 AM. Reason: spelling |
09-04-2014, 10:30 PM | #45 |
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yes - this. i really dont want this thread to go down that road. let's keep it to UOAs and specific experience.
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09-05-2014, 09:07 AM | #46 |
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I strapped a Hammy to a pigeon and pointed him in the general direction of NJ. Thanks!
I feel ya, but if 5k on the factory oil messes up the engine then I'll consider it a lucky break fix now while still under warranty and get rid of it, that's a bogus design. I decided if I do a UOA, it will be for the second change which will be Mobil 1 5W30. I suspect that if this viscosity drop that people mention is so typical, Subaru has accounted for this in the design of their engine and the specification of the oil. I would guess that the people that have had mechanical problems stemming from 5W30 also tend to have tuned cars? Which won't be an issue for me. |
09-05-2014, 09:21 AM | #47 | |
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2015 WRX Used Oil Analysis Thread
Quote:
It doesn't matter which model year WRX that is. The first few uoa's will all pretty much look the same. And you cannot use a $30 uoa to determine which oil is best. Sorry, no refund! Edit: Actually, if you compare the metallic anti-wear additive levels (moly, calcium, ZDDP), the additive package in the '15 uoa looks weaker and the viscosity is even thinner than in the '13. -Dennis Sent from my iPad using NASIOC Last edited by bluesubie; 09-05-2014 at 09:32 AM. |
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09-05-2014, 09:50 AM | #48 |
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Vehicle:2015 WRX Limited DGM |
a single UOA doesn't tell you what's the best but a series of them will provide factual evidence of how a type of oil lasts in that particular car. Ideally, the owner does the UOA two or three times in the life of the oil so we can see how it is holding up - though that gets expensive. hopefully enough people do this with different oils and post them here so that the totality of the results will give real evidence for people to look at instead of the name calling and take my word for it that we see in other threads.
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09-05-2014, 10:26 AM | #49 | |
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Quote:
I find it amusing how you use the term "weaker". That is a subjective comment that has no fact based evidence for this new engine. Perhaps the engineers who have designed the FA20DIT have determine the extra additives are unnecessary. I say again, please let this thread play out and please stick to the facts. Once a few UOAs have been posted we can address these topics. |
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09-05-2014, 03:20 PM | #50 | |
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Quote:
Why is it amusing that I said the additive package is weaker? The '15 uoa has less ZDDP, moly, and a lower viscosity based on the uoa's so that is not subjective. Actually, I consider any RC oil weaker in terms of anti-wear, High Temp High Shear, and viscosity stability in comparison to Euro oils. That's why it's impossible for an RC oil to meet European ACEA A3 specs as well as Porsche A40, VW502, MB 229.x, BMW LL, etc. This site is good for comparing specs. https://www.lubrizol.com/EngineOilAd...l/default.html Not that you can even believe the numbers that you get on a Blackstone uoa anyway. I've seen more than one uoa where RT6 ZDDP levels come back lower than an RC oil, which is impossible. Brad Penn talks about BS's ZDDP readings on their web site. http://www.penngrade1.com/zinc.aspx Watch this thread for future factory fill uoa's and notice the additive levels. This article about uoa's is excellent reading: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/ -Dennis |
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