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Old 05-15-2019, 09:13 PM   #1951
fullah
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What's consensus on new strut mounts? Specifically whether it makes sense getting either the group n or the whiteline offset front mounts? I just bought the tein basis to replace my base suspension and wanted to get new mounts instead of having to disassemble my factory stuff. Not sure whether to just get oem mounts or upgrade.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:44 PM   #1952
RaceComp Engineering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullah View Post
What's consensus on new strut mounts? Specifically whether it makes sense getting either the group n or the whiteline offset front mounts? I just bought the tein basis to replace my base suspension and wanted to get new mounts instead of having to disassemble my factory stuff. Not sure whether to just get oem mounts or upgrade.
Depends on the model and year.

Let us know.

If its a 2002-2007 WRX OR STI then yes the STI Group-N mounts are WELL worth it.

If its a 2008+ car with under 75k on it then the OEM(stock) mounts are good.

If in fact WL has actually upgraded the bearings in the Com-C mounts then yes that would be a good option too.

Myles
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:52 AM   #1953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering View Post
Depends on the model and year.

Let us know.

If its a 2002-2007 WRX OR STI then yes the STI Group-N mounts are WELL worth it.

If its a 2008+ car with under 75k on it then the OEM(stock) mounts are good.

If in fact WL has actually upgraded the bearings in the Com-C mounts then yes that would be a good option too.

Myles
RCE
Sorry forgot to add that in. It's a 2018 WRX base.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:56 AM   #1954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullah View Post
Sorry forgot to add that in. It's a 2018 WRX base.
You definitely dont need upgraded mounts.

Like you said, unless you dont want to disassemble your stock stuff, then get some upgraded mounts.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:22 AM   #1955
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Originally Posted by fullah View Post
Sorry forgot to add that in. It's a 2018 WRX base.
Yeah you dont need upgraded mounts. I'd use oem mounts(yours) and possibly get the WL caster bushing to get more front caster. Get an alignment to get more front camber and you should be good. The extra caster AND camber will improve turn in response very much so.

Myles
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:40 AM   #1956
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Wouldn't he also need bumpsteer correction to go with any caster change he cares to make?


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Old 05-16-2019, 11:45 AM   #1957
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Wouldn't he also need bumpsteer correction to go with any caster change he cares to make?


Norm
Yes only if he went beyond 7.5 caster( In my experience). He'd most likely end up at about 7.0 caster which still improves turn-in.

Myles
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:05 PM   #1958
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Yes only if he went beyond 7.5 caster( In my experience). He'd most likely end up at about 7.0 caster which still improves turn-in.

Myles
Thanks.


Norm
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:54 PM   #1959
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Thanks.


Norm
Btw its awesome to have a person with your experience and knowledge on the forums. They really should change your status to guru since you go back as far as I can remember to the 2000 or 99 era!

Myles
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Old 05-17-2019, 03:29 AM   #1960
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Does anyone happen to know the spring rate specs on the STI pink springs (from Japan parts) compared to the stock and RCE yellows?
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:47 PM   #1961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceComp Engineering View Post
A good way to improve ride quality on a 16 base WRX is to find a set of the inverted front WRX (not STI) struts. And make sure your tires aren't overinflated (incredibly common).

- Andrew
Thanks for the reply! ill keep an eye out for some used WRX premium inverted struts.
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Old 05-21-2019, 06:35 PM   #1962
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Hey guys quick question; RCE Yellows vs WL front and rear sway bars. Which will make the biggest difference in handling as a first mod?
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Old 05-22-2019, 01:16 AM   #1963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamx View Post
Hey guys quick question; RCE Yellows vs WL front and rear sway bars. Which will make the biggest difference in handling as a first mod?
What car do you have trim yr model?
What do you do with it?
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Old 05-22-2019, 01:47 AM   #1964
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What car do you have trim yr model?
What do you do with it?
sorry, it was a pretty poorly thought out question wasnt it.

I have a 19 STI, daily driver with occasional spirited canyon driving. I find the car understeers a fair bit, makes me quite hesitant throwing it into a corner.

I'm looking to do either lowering springs or replace the sway bars + end links. I get the feeling the sway bars will have greater efficacy in improving handling however the lowering springs also make the car look a tonne better so I'm hoping someone can convince me that they also help handling a lot too.

thanks for your help
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:00 AM   #1965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamx View Post
sorry, it was a pretty poorly thought out question wasnt it.

I have a 19 STI, daily driver with occasional spirited canyon driving. I find the car understeers a fair bit, makes me quite hesitant throwing it into a corner.

I'm looking to do either lowering springs or replace the sway bars + end links. I get the feeling the sway bars will have greater efficacy in improving handling however the lowering springs also make the car look a tonne better so I'm hoping someone can convince me that they also help handling a lot too.

thanks for your help
For street use definitely skip the front sway and do a 22 in the rear. Save 100$ and keep you factory endlinks they’re fine.

Get the springs if you want the look, but don’t kid your self about it being a great performance benefit. It’s fine to want to be a hot boi

Then do th real thing for handling improvement and get a good performance alignment. Spend the extra 20$ and throw a set of secondary camber bolts in the front.

With those and the springs you should get around -1.7° of front camber then zero front and rear toe.

For bonus points get a rear alignment kit, on a budget the cam type lower controll arms and eccentric toe bushings are a good option. Drop rear camber from the probable -2.3° with the springs to -1.2° or so ( half a degree less than front).
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:37 AM   #1966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamx View Post
I'm looking to do either lowering springs or replace the sway bars + end links. I get the feeling the sway bars will have greater efficacy in improving handling however the lowering springs also make the car look a tonne better so I'm hoping someone can convince me that they also help handling a lot too.

thanks for your help
Whatever handling improvement you get from "lowering springs" is going to be coming from the lowering springs being stiffer than OE. Lowering by itself doesn't do what the change in appearance suggests, and with strut suspensions the roll center drops faster than the amount the car CG drops (meaning more roll if spring rate is held constant).


Don't overlook the shocks & struts. They're responsible for providing a feeling of composure and affect things like corner entry and exit, and are a more important part of the handling puzzle than most people give them credit for being. Handling is about much more than how many skidpad g's your car can pull or how flat you can hold the amount of roll down to.


Norm
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:22 AM   #1967
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Good responses here.

Springs, rear swaybar, and a GOOD alignment (with GOOD being the crucial piece many overlook) will be a great start.

Alternatively, we do have our RCE SS1 coilovers. They're our entry level coilovers in terms of price, but an awesome road & track type suspension. With those, you could stick with OEM swaybars. They'll ride better than OEM shocks + RCE Yellows too. Damping adjustable and come with front lowering camber plates.
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Old 05-22-2019, 01:17 PM   #1968
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I've said it before and I'll say it again: I really enjoy my RCE YELLOW springs. I felt a difference in ride and stability. I also got a proper performance alignment, SPL rear control arms, and a set of Michelin pilot sport cups and I can say that the cars' performance is rarely pushed beyond its capabilities. I have done a few track days, and a lot of spirited driving and I'm very happy with how it performs.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:42 PM   #1969
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^ thanks for all the advice above guys

I'll start with the rear swaybar + lowering springs and then go from there
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:13 PM   #1970
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Pros and cons of upgraded engine mounts
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Old 05-25-2019, 01:18 AM   #1971
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Default Looking for compatible suspension

Hey guys, not sure if this is the right thread but does anyone know exactly what other Subaru struts/coils fit the 15+? I've seen the 15+ STI fits the WRX but I'm wondering what else I could get and just directly swap into my 17 WRX. TIA
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:01 PM   #1972
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Installee the tein basis earlier today. I set it to a 1.6" measurement as per the tein instructions and it's actually pretty low ride height. I was kinda surprised! It's about a one finger gap all around on oem 245/40/18 dunlops. I didn't get much driving time today but a quick trip around the neighborhood to make sure there weren't any noises or anything seemed pretty good. Rides almost like stock base suspension but the steering has firmed up and also much much more quiet than oem base suspension! I used kyb strut mounts so I didn't have to take apart my oem stuff so now sure if that had something to do with it.

I'll post some pics tomorrow. Car looks super aggressive with the drop.

Can someone tell me what the max negative camber that can be adjusted on the front camber bolt? I'm gonna wait a bit to get it aligned once things settle but wanted to put some negative camber to match the rear.
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Old 05-27-2019, 07:59 AM   #1973
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Can someone tell me what the max negative camber that can be adjusted on the front camber bolt? I'm gonna wait a bit to get it aligned once things settle but wanted to put some negative camber to match the rear.
You may find that bolt to hole clearances are loose enough to permit camber settings further negative than what the adjuster lines indicate (I found an extra 0.7° on the LF on my '19). At that point, you're off the cam adjuster and relying on friction through fastener clamping force to hold the setting from slipping. There's probably something that can be done on a DIY level to positively eliminate slippage, but I haven't had my '19 long enough to know if slippage is going to be a problem or figure out a way of positively holding things in place if it is.


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Old 05-28-2019, 04:30 PM   #1974
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You may find that bolt to hole clearances are loose enough to permit camber settings further negative than what the adjuster lines indicate (I found an extra 0.7° on the LF on my '19). At that point, you're off the cam adjuster and relying on friction through fastener clamping force to hold the setting from slipping. There's probably something that can be done on a DIY level to positively eliminate slippage, but I haven't had my '19 long enough to know if slippage is going to be a problem or figure out a way of positively holding things in place if it is.


Norm
I just adjusted it to where the furthest adjuster lines are at the 12 and 6 positions and the band of adjusting lines are toward the engine. Not a huge difference in adjustment but I can see the change. I think I'll probably have to get a set of camber bolts to get more adjustment. Gotta run thru some threads to see what camber makes sense for a daily but probably less than 2° is that I would be aiming for. I am not sure if I want to swap out the rear arms yet.
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:05 PM   #1975
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That's about what I did . . . and then pushed the camber even further negative by using up all of the bolt to hole clearance in the "more negative" direction.

IOW, the marks on the adjuster don't necessarily represent the limits on adjustment that are physically available. Some cars may have more than others, so you might not have as much of this "extra negative" as I did, or you might have a little more.


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