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Old 05-16-2020, 02:42 AM   #251
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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It threaded into the knob, but was loose until it finally bottomed out. Hard to see, but I JB Welded the adapter into the knob.





After it cured, I didn't want to give anyone the idea that it can be taken out with a wrench, so I rounded the corners down and made it round. More or less matches the knob.


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Old 05-16-2020, 02:43 AM   #252
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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I threaded it on, synched it into place, and zip tied the shift boot to the rest of the exposed thread of the shifter.







Why Subaru provided a $0.07 adapter with their $100 - $150 shift knob, I'll never know. I might make a separate post of this cause I didn't find anything online that anyone's ***8216;repaired' these before.
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:40 PM   #253
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
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Location: Vancouver
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2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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I'm a little concerned, this fit the first time :P


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Old 05-29-2020, 01:54 PM   #254
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
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2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Last week I cut the other side down to size and mounted their risers...


... coated the bottom ...


... and then the top.
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Old 05-30-2020, 01:19 AM   #255
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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During this past week, I patched, wrapped...


... and cut reliefs in the floor's new covering.
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Old 05-30-2020, 01:23 AM   #256
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
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2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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And done!



A few odds and ends to wrap up the interior is touching up the exposed rivets and some spots on the seats.
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Old 05-30-2020, 01:28 AM   #257
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Also earlier in the week, I took Vicky out for her first drive this year! Man those seats are nice!!! It was also a pleasant change driving with a solid shift knob. So I took a photo-op...

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Old 05-31-2020, 02:19 PM   #258
bdc64
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Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: BC, Canada
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2009 STI Hatch
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Looks awesome!
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:51 AM   #259
clsmooth
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Blue Ridge Pearl

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With a holiday coming up tomorrow and some time for myself, got some maintenance-ish things outta the way.

The right rear caliper's seized, and since I was going to be in that corner, also ordered a new fuel filler neck.

I was advised mine needed replacing cause I can see some rust when looking down into it.

And that advice was correct.



Swapping out the caliper took 20 min, the filler pipe consumed the other 5 - 6 hours. SO MUCH rust and dirt came out from under the cover! It was a real pain getting that main hose off the end of the pipe too.

The more I handled it, the more started to disintegrate. I'm surprised my engine light never came on cause of this.



I picked up an aftermarket/jobber replacement pipe. The looping hose you see if me making a longer one then what came with it. Wouldn't reach 1 of those 2 return line things.



One of those returns lines at the bottom had a bit of surface rust on its clamp. Not sure how bad it is, but it down right impossible to get in there and change em under a jack stand - so I left them. If either start to leak, I'm taking that to my mechanic and ask him to name his price.

All shiny and new, but that was a struggle too. The bodyshop that the previous owner had the work done when the car got it either misaligned the filler neck "cup" in the 1/4 panel, bent the original fuel filler neck to fit, or both. Things were off everywhere by 3mm here and there. I had to wrestle it into position where I could bolt everything back up.



Put everything back together, and doesn't even look like I did anything.



1 of the cover's mounting bolts doesn't line up with the pipes bracket. That's aftermarket for ya. And the top mounting bolt didn't unscrew, it came off in the cover with a chunk of bracket. I melted it out and used a new bolt with a big washer.
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:56 AM   #260
clsmooth
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Join Date: May 2005
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Location: Vancouver
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2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Some bad news though. With everything apart, I thought it'd be a good idea to brush everything off and hit it with some leftover rubber sealant spray I had left over from my interior re-do. I ended up doing this with just a wire brush.



Picture yourself as the right, rear shock, looking out at the sidewalk. This one makes me feel bad. I don't think it's structural or anything's compromised cause if I knocked everything out with a brush, it's been on its last legs for who knows how long. Nothing I can do right now, applied as much sealant as I could. At least I'm getting to know where are the areas of concern are when I'm at Phase 4 and take her in for bodywork & paint. I'm going to bite the bullet on this one, pay the bodyshop to fix it right, and move on with life.
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Old 07-23-2020, 11:40 PM   #261
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Not so much of an upgrade, more like maintenance, but still interesting.

My right front caliper was also seized. I had plans to rebuild it, but reman'd calipers are so much cheaper nowadays, I simply ordered one.



Couple of coats of blue


And a high-heat while vinyl decal


That's seized on there good! haha


The right, front caliper was 'original' in that in came with the car from the previous owner when I bought it. In the earlier 00's, he got in on a group by for a JDM 4-pot front setup. I think his "deal" at the time was $1000 or so for used 4-pots, used rotors, and even used pads. I had to replace the left front caliper a year or 2 after I took ownership cause it developed crack right in its casing? I still don't know what happened there...

I'm surprised this one lasted as long as it did. Previous owner got used himself. Who know how many km's, or even what year exactly it was from.

Back on the car


I like it
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Old 08-20-2020, 01:08 AM   #262
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Now with blue Mcgard lock lugs.



Also put insurance on her for the rest of the month! Gotta enjoy her a bit after all that work...
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Old 08-27-2020, 11:53 PM   #263
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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All the parts for Phase 2 this upcoming winter have come in. Am I missing anything? :P


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Old 09-11-2020, 11:17 PM   #264
Mad_Max_2010
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Port Moody
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2010 sti hatch
dgm

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Love the work you are putting in on this. What a special project. Enjoy, I am.
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Old 10-03-2020, 05:42 PM   #265
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Phase 2: "Footwork" , has begun...

Started with the front of the car as there's not as much too it as the rear.
Swapped in a Whiteline 22mm front swaybar with all the matching hardware, bushings and links. Little tricky getting it snaked passed the header, and also took me a while to figure out which direction it went on cause I wasn't paying attention to how the stock one was oriented before I took it out.





The endlinks-to-bar bolts were an insanely tight squeeze but they got in there. (There's a lot of space between it and the tie-rod, just the angle of the photo).

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Old 10-03-2020, 05:44 PM   #266
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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I also put new front rotors in cause my one front caliper that was seized I guess I had left for a little too long cause it got so hot it actually cracked the rotor at that corner.


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Old 10-03-2020, 05:47 PM   #267
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Unfortunately the Megan Racing lower brace doesn't clear my Borla header :/ Couldn't put it in. Also decided to do away with the front brake shields.


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Old 10-03-2020, 06:02 PM   #268
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Replace the front, lower-rear bushings with Whiteline as well.


These weren't fun to do under jackstands. I also didn't realize I didn't have big enough wrenches part way through :P Ran out and bought a 22mm and 24mm cause the Whitelines come with bigger nuts (haha... bigger nuts).


I had to contort myself into the weirdest positions to hold the socket onto the bolts while breaking them free using my legs and feet. I'm still sore.


The instructions also call for removing the transmission brace, but the 2 17mm bolts at the front just would not budge. So I ground 3-4mm notches in the lip of the brace, just enough for the corner of the bushing mount to clear. (I'll hit everything with black or undercoat another day).








I should've replaced these before I put the new sway bar in. It was harder prying the control arm down to get the bushings off and on.

This concludes my contribution to the front. All that's left are the front, lower-front bushings. I have Whiteline ones set aside that I'll get my shop to do with their press.

Looking forward to a test drive next week on a night where it'll be dry!
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Old 10-09-2020, 11:40 PM   #269
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

Default

Went for a test drive earlier this week, she definitely behaves a little differently in the corners. In a good way, just a matter of getting used to it. Feels like the back end doesn't want to kick out as much.

I also noticed vibration was cut down quite a bit. And when I drive over an unavoidable imperfection across the road, the steering wheel doesn't want to hiccup one way or the other, stays straight.


When I had her on the road last, the amp up and died on me. Took it to a local repair guy, some insulation and capacitors had failed due to age. All repaired and back in the car now.
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Old 11-08-2020, 12:33 AM   #270
6th gear
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Location: North Vancouver
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2004 STi Aspen White
1971 Corolla Racecar

Subaru Stars

So nice to see Vicky is still around...
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Old 12-04-2020, 01:56 AM   #271
clsmooth
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Join Date: May 2005
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2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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The dis-assembling of the rear has begun.



Calipers, rotors and dust shields removed. Sway bar's completely apart, just gotta snake it outta there. I ran outta time and got tired cause the previous owner left me with, hopefully, the last surprise. The bolts that hold the swaybar-to-frame brackets are messed up. On the driver's side, one of em broke off and stuck in the frame. On the driver's side, one bolt came out, but was incredibly hard to turn right til the bitter end. I suspect they were carelessly mashed in there with an air gun and cross-threaded. I'll take some pics next time.


Also, why did Subaru tack weld the rear dust shields onto the hubs? Couldn't bolt them on like the front?

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Old 12-10-2020, 12:02 AM   #272
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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Got the sway bar out tonight. Pretty sad shape. Already have a place lined up for sandblasting and coating.




Also, this is one of the swaybar bracket-to-frame bolts that broke off on the driver's side.



The passenger side, both bolts came out, but one extremely difficultly. Pretty sure threads on that one's buggered.


**** you Vincent, I'm sick of all the **** you left behind.
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Old 12-13-2020, 03:15 PM   #273
clsmooth
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Member#: 86394
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

Default

Attempted to start getting the driver's side control arm out and started snapping adapters.


I've invested in some high-quality 1/2" drive sockets and such - I'm ready for round 2!



I've also picked up a new pair of those king pin bolts from the dealer, just in case...
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Old 12-18-2020, 03:02 AM   #274
clsmooth
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Join Date: May 2005
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Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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My new Gearwrench 1/2" socket set came in handy and replaced the driver's side rear trailing arm a few nights ago.





The bolt holding the fork to the hub wasn't bad to loosen, but the trailing-arm-to-frame bolt at the front? Holy hell what an ordeal. It finally broke free with the worst metal stress/groaning/fart sound that actually scared me a bit! :S I thought I bent something on the car! But it was just really loud. Each bolt at each end were in terrific shape though, clean with the gold coating still intact so I re-used them with anti-seize.





The arm went in smoothly and lined up perfectly with everything. Ya, added some stickers, see how long they last :P Overall the Magan Racing and OEM trailing arm weighed about the same. I couldn't feel a difference.


I'm still a bit torn over these. I think they're overpriced for what they are. These were the most expensive parts I got for this phase and kinda not much to em in my opinion? I don't if if it's from manufacturing or shipping, but both fork ends on each were visibly leaning in on each other and would've never gone on smoothly. I had to use a caliper spreader to straighen them out. The bushing is definately an upgrade, completely solid and extremely firm. The bushing in the original arm I was able to flex around with a few fingers either from age or that's how it is from factory. I wonder if I should've gotten some no-name aftermarket ones and pop in my own bushings? Or would I end up no further ahead or behind? But, everything remains the same brand :/

Last edited by clsmooth; 12-18-2020 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 12-18-2020, 03:21 AM   #275
clsmooth
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2000 RS Coupe
Blue Ridge Pearl

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With everything apart and my tools out, I thought I'd try and at least get the control arm bolts loosened for next time. Well, they came loose as expected for these kinda bolts and weren't anything like the trailing arm front bolts. So I swapped those out on the driver's side as well.





I like the new sexiness...





These I feel are certainly more worth it then the trailing arms. Reasonably priced and adjustable. The 2 frame bolts were also in terrific shape and re-used them with anti-seize. I did get new king pin bolts from the dealer though. These arms feel heavier then the OEM ones, but not by much. Slightly noticeable is all. Stronger I suppose.
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