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Old 08-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #1
Meat Supply
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Default Car repair thread-post your queries and tips/tricks here!

It seems we have how-to threads for home/technology/kids/wives/minivan dog problems/sailboats but not for questions, tips and tricks to utilize the collective knowledge of Ot to help answer questions, etc about with someone's car problems....

Currently I have an old saturn SL1 with 221k on it. I was pretty sure the left front CV axle was shot. I jacked up that corner and gave the wheel a wiggle, just to see and HOLY HELL! The bearing is so shot that when i wiggle the wheel around it feels about like if i had backed the lug nuts out about 1/8 inch. I'm still suspect of the axle, but let's face it, that's a lot of miles, i'm sure they should be replaced anyway.

I've had a few cars with wheel bearings gone bad and it seems like every damn time it manifests itself differently.

so my q's are: would a bad alignment wear out bearing quick? would a bad cb axle cause bearing failure?
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:45 PM   #2
Matt K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meat Supply View Post
would a bad cb axle cause bearing failure?
did you try changing channels on the CB? You might be talking skip.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:46 PM   #3
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Bad CB axle? Breaker one niner for a radio check.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meat Supply View Post
It seems we have how-to threads for home/technology/kids/wives/minivan dog problems/sailboats but not for questions, tips and tricks to utilize the collective knowledge of Ot to help answer questions, etc about with someone's car problems....

Currently I have an old saturn SL1 with 221k on it. I was pretty sure the left front CV axle was shot. I jacked up that corner and gave the wheel a wiggle, just to see and HOLY HELL! The bearing is so shot that when i wiggle the wheel around it feels about like if i had backed the lug nuts out about 1/8 inch. I'm still suspect of the axle, but let's face it, that's a lot of miles, i'm sure they should be replaced anyway.

I've had a few cars with wheel bearings gone bad and it seems like every damn time it manifests itself differently.

so my q's are: would a bad alignment wear out bearing quick? would a bad cb axle cause bearing failure?
221K miles is a long time for a wheel bearing.

Be thankful it lasted this long.

Vibration and an unaccounted for load (see: ******** that put huge offset wheels on their car) can cause bearing failure. A bad CV joint shouldn't cause the issue, but if you're going it to replace the bearing, might as well do the axle at the same time...plan on doing both sides.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:07 PM   #5
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My best tip:

When removing tie rods or ball joints, instead of using that tool which pushes them out, hit the side of the tie rod end/ball joint housing with a sledge hammer a few times - good and hard.

The joint should pop out within a few blows.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:13 PM   #6
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The axle does not locate the wheel so any play can be attributed to wheel bearings, ball joints or tie rods. Was there more or less play when shaking top and bottom or side to side?
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor View Post
The axle does not locate the wheel so any play can be attributed to wheel bearings, ball joints or tie rods. Was there more or less play when shaking top and bottom or side to side?
about the same. I've had a few bad wheel bearings, and none ever got this bad. Weird part is the noise just started yesterday morning afaik... frickin weird. I have 2 new bearings on order...
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:23 PM   #8
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Are the pressed or a bolt-in hub?
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:28 PM   #9
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Are the pressed or a bolt-in hub?
pressed Not sure if either is better, but my last car car had a bolt in hub and that was tons easier than having to take the steering knuckle with the whole damn hub assembly to a shop and have them do their thing....

my uncle is a mechanic and has a press, so When i get my parts, I'm going to have him do it...
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:38 PM   #10
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To stop my battery posts from corroding I delicately apply a thin layer of grease


Works for knobs too
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:51 PM   #11
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Check the axle nut, if its loose it will cause play I the bearing (and failure)
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:56 PM   #12
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To stop my battery posts from corroding I delicately apply a thin layer of grease

Works for knobs too
Make sure you use water based grease on knobs.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:01 PM   #13
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pressed Not sure if either is better, but my last car car had a bolt in hub and that was tons easier than having to take the steering knuckle with the whole damn hub assembly to a shop and have them do their thing....

my uncle is a mechanic and has a press, so When i get my parts, I'm going to have him do it...
Yeah, the bolt ins are great....but you have access to a shop with the right tools, so you should be good.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:15 PM   #14
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Car sitting, never run in over 5 years. On tires that aren't flat and still fuel in tank. Steps to take to get it running?

Empty fuel and flush tank? Change plugs? What else?
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilapia View Post
Car sitting, never run in over 5 years. On tires that aren't flat and still fuel in tank. Steps to take to get it running?

Empty fuel and flush tank? Change plugs? What else?
Turn key.

If car starts, great. If no start try jumping.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:22 PM   #16
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Fuel wouldn't be all gunky or something?
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:35 PM   #17
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Fuel wouldn't be all gunky or something?
Water absorption maybe. Doesn't start... drain fuel. Change oil too. Try again
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:31 AM   #18
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I'd drain it and put new fuel in regardless. Not the best idea to run 5 year old stagnant fuel through the system if you can avoid it.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meat Supply View Post
pressed Not sure if either is better, but my last car car had a bolt in hub and that was tons easier than having to take the steering knuckle with the whole damn hub assembly to a shop and have them do their thing....

my uncle is a mechanic and has a press, so When i get my parts, I'm going to have him do it...
Be sure to not overtorque the axle nut. Thats how I ruined one bearing.
Overtorqued by 80ft/lbs. Took some time, but the noise came back within 6 months. Replaced bearing again and used correct torque.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:20 AM   #20
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Car sitting, never run in over 5 years. On tires that aren't flat and still fuel in tank. Steps to take to get it running?

Empty fuel and flush tank? Change plugs? What else?
Change oil, disconnect coil wire or remove fuse to disable ignition. Crank the engine over by hand at least one full revolution to make sure that the rings aren't rusted to the cylinder walls, then crank the motor on the starter for a bit. It's best if you pull the valve cover so that a helper can watch for oil flow out of the valvetrain. Then you can put it all back together and fire it up.

I'd change the fuel first, and your tires are likely to fall apart in the very near future.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:31 AM   #21
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Seafoam.


Gallons of Seafoam.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:41 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilapia View Post
Car sitting, never run in over 5 years. On tires that aren't flat and still fuel in tank. Steps to take to get it running?

Empty fuel and flush tank? Change plugs? What else?
Take breaker bar and 32mm socket. Put socket on CV axle end. Pick up whole car by that nut and carry it to car dealer. Drop car and tell dealer that you'd like to trade the car for a new car.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilapia View Post
Car sitting, never run in over 5 years. On tires that aren't flat and still fuel in tank. Steps to take to get it running?

Empty fuel and flush tank? Change plugs? What else?
take out plugs put a little bit of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder...
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:55 AM   #24
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When changing the oil filter on an is300 expect to get oil every****ingwhere.

Pro Tips - Tips from the Pros
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
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When changing the oil filter on an is300 expect to get oil every****ingwhere.

Pro Tips - Tips from the Pros
Same when changing the oil on a 1974 F-250 - Ranger - King Cab - Camper Special (yes it had 4 badges).

I saved myself the trouble and would take in to get the oil changed. There was a 1.5" flat metal bar that ran directly under the plug. Unscrew plug, oil hits bar, oil splashes everywhere. Who the hell thought putting a bar under the drain plug was a good idea?
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