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Old 01-11-2019, 07:42 PM   #1001
G15STI
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Member#: 496347
Join Date: Jan 2019
Default fuel pressure and tune

My FPR is reading 34psi I'm hearing that's pretty low. I have a protune and I'm just wondering if raising my fuel pressure to say 43-46psi will have any affect? right now there's a stumble around 2k RPM and Idles fluctuating during city driving.
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Old 01-16-2019, 10:33 PM   #1002
Heathen_S13
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Member#: 480625
Join Date: Jan 2018
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: In the Rocky's.
Vehicle:
2006 WRX Wagon
Steel Metallic Grey 26D

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pretty lame question that I might already know the answer to, but I'm looking at buying an 2012 STI short block with a rod knock ( short block but still has the internals) guy wants $50 for it.. or i can get a wrecked 07 STI and swap all that over to my 06 WRX... now my question is, I have always heard that the 07 was one of the best years for Subaru (moddern day 22B) just going off the blocks they are basically the same, right? and they would both work in my 06, yeah?
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Old 01-06-2020, 06:51 PM   #1003
rigoak
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Member#: 181574
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Alaska
Vehicle:
1990 Quattro Coupe
Black

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I have a 1993 impreza with a 2006 jdm avacs engine and corresponding ecu, car is on a stock tune with a walbro 255 fuel pump and aftermarket downpipe.

On a cold start up the car high idles at 2000 rpm with high with 14-low to 15 afr's.(14.7-15.3)
once coolant temp got 1/4 of the way up to temp the car suddenly went extremely lean (26+) until the car stumbled to maintain idle. Once throttle was applied car would rev as it should but still very lean.

Upon pulling the car back into a heated garage air fuel and idle semi resumed normal. (1500 rpm 15.3 afr) At that point I pulled it back outside and the lean condition re emerged but the car maintained the high idle with very lean afr's. (22+) Blipping the throttle the afrs changed towards happier numbers as expected but the idle still maintained the lean afr's


Thoughts or input would be appreciated, the afr's are being read off the recently replaced factory wideband and an aem stand alone gauge. Both gauges are reading the same.

Data logs can also be provided, thanks my project is ready to hit the road as soon as this issue is resolved!
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:54 PM   #1004
BCSTI2020
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Member#: 509230
Join Date: Dec 2019
Default 2020 STI going cobb ots stage 2 with Grimspeed Catted DP

I just received my Grimmspeed ltd catted down pipe and was going to start with the COBB OTS stage 2 tune and evaluate from there.
The rear O2 bung is located before the cat.
I understand the stage 2 will prevent cat codes but I also know the B1S2 (rear)sensor is used for final fine fuel trim like most late model OBD2 vehicles.
From my experience the rear o2 signal is usually steady at around 700mv as there is O2 consumed in the catalyst. Will the O2 position just cause the vehicle to run slightly richer when in closed loop or cause other issues due to the measuring error?
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Old 02-05-2020, 08:07 AM   #1005
mikeydrives1
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Member#: 262117
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Vehicle:
2001 Forester STI
MKtuned

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCSTI2020 View Post
I just received my Grimmspeed ltd catted down pipe and was going to start with the COBB OTS stage 2 tune and evaluate from there.
The rear O2 bung is located before the cat.
I understand the stage 2 will prevent cat codes but I also know the B1S2 (rear)sensor is used for final fine fuel trim like most late model OBD2 vehicles.
From my experience the rear o2 signal is usually steady at around 700mv as there is O2 consumed in the catalyst. Will the O2 position just cause the vehicle to run slightly richer when in closed loop or cause other issues due to the measuring error?
Maybe another Tuner can back me up on this, BUT, i believe the latest updates to the staged map's have the rear 02 AF-learning trims zero'd out. When setting up a basemap, i would always pass that table and see them set to +/- 7.xx % or so, and zero them, but ive noticed as of recent that some maps already have that accounted for and removed, regardless of cat or not.
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Old 04-29-2020, 07:25 PM   #1006
DmitriiKustov
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Member#: 514259
Join Date: Apr 2020
Question Tuning yourself?

Hi there,

I've been working on cars for year, but never done tuning myself. Have a COBB stage 2+ now, and my day job is programming. So, I think I have brain capacity to do tuning myself.

Question: If I read bunch of materials, do the COBB courses, lots of Youtube etc., and take a careful approach to changing tables, what are the changes of me blowing up my 2013 STI?

Also, if there are any guides of some sorts on how to do street tuning yourself, I'd appreciate the links
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Old 05-16-2020, 09:27 PM   #1007
TunedB4
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Member#: 514803
Join Date: May 2020
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I have a burble tune now on my 00 legacy b4 single turbo swap and Iím not getting enough spark... Iím told to edit my spark - minimum map, but I donít know which way to go with it? Itís set at ďHigh, 0.0* Low, -10.0*Ē Iím tuned on project lambda
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Old 07-15-2020, 01:26 AM   #1008
Damonnash777
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Member#: 516546
Join Date: Jul 2020
Default

Okay so, I have a 2003 JDM V8 Subaru wrx sti. It is completely bone stock, I currently run 91 octane on the stick tune.

At random times my car will cut power, retard timing and lower boost pressure from 1.4 kpa WOT to .5 kpa WOT.

I have asked around and people seem to think itís the ecu picking up knock and just putting itself in a safe mode, yet there is no engine light that comes on. Sometimes it lasts for a few minutes, other times the whole day.

I tried it out today, usually it does this on days that are really hot, and Iím not ripping on the car, but Iíll get into boost and then itíll feel similar to a coupler for say the throttle body lets go. I am going to try running 94 octane and see if that solves the issue.

I was just wondering if this is something that the car does naturally, I do not have an accessport just because Iíve had a hassle trying to find one for the jdm ecu. So I canít monitor the knock.

Any help would be awesome! Thanks!!
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