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Old 08-21-2016, 07:01 PM   #1251
Matt K
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Originally Posted by 340Duster View Post
I knew laminate floors aren't water friendly, but damn. My roommate missed a spot where my new puppy had an accident, and now there's about 8 inches of a joint that's slightly raised from the water. And, a tiny spot where she spilled water on the floor for maybe an hour or so before getting wiped up. I don't suppose there's any way to try and smooth or press the edges of the joint back down. I want vinyl plank tile!
I have a few edges that are raised I think just from the humidity
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:03 PM   #1252
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at least this wire wasnt live but was still in the box in the ceiling



the offending pipe with the leak right at the top



Random hole which I will patch or perhaps fill with expandable foam

Last edited by bigfishs; 08-21-2016 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:06 PM   #1253
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Very small sorta damp spot. When I frame this do I leave the french drain uncovered by the pressure treated 2x4 baseplate or should it be tight to the wall?

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Old 08-22-2016, 12:15 AM   #1254
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Are you putting a rail on both sides of the steps?
15 treads? Methinks you require a landing somewhere. But then again, decks and fences are pretty much exempt from building permits.
I do like your deck
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:48 AM   #1255
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Have an outdoor storage question; we're looking into one of those small resin garden sheds to keep a push mower and some garden tools in. Something about 5ft W x 3ft D x 5-6ft T (~50 cu ft). They all want a level base/foundation (reasonable). The space we'd put it is under a deck and currently mulch over dirt and 'close' to level. I'm willing to do some prep/leveling, but I'm also not going to pour a slab or sink footings to install a $300 resin shed.

Other options seem to be:
-gravel: ~4" or so - secure shed w/ auger anchors
-gravel + pavers: secure shed w/ dyna-bolts or similar
-pressure-treated wooden frame on piers or pavers(or gravel?)

WWOTD? I want to do it 'right' (or at least good enough), keeping in mind this is a 50 cu ft garden tool shed, and not a 2nd garage with heavy machinery and/or vehicles in it.

We might patio over the entire mulched area w/ pavers in the future, so I'm leaning that way. I'm flexible if there's a good reason not to do that though.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:02 PM   #1256
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So Nest, I know some of you in here have them. What do you think? Central air is done as of today and we have hot water radiators for heat.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:08 PM   #1257
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So Nest, I know some of you in here have them. What do you think? Central air is done as of today and we have hot water radiators for heat.
I'm also curious. I love the tech integration and also saving monies.

But we don't have WiFi in our home, will that be an issue or just make some/most of the tech features useless?
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:15 PM   #1258
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Hey, so this is a good place to talk about my newest project. Replacement windows. I live in a rowhouse in downtown B-more, and it's about a 10 year old rehab, so the windows are 10 year old contractor grade vinyl replacements.

I want to replace them, just had a guy from Pella in today. Have other contractors coming tomorrow and Tuesday to do estimates.

I want paintable interiors, currently the trim in much of the house is black, and the white vinyl windows are hateful against it. I also want max sun thermal coating for them, my house faces east west, in the morning by 8 am it feels like there someone operating a blast furnace on the other side of my insulated blackout curtains from 10' away in bed.

Anybody been down this road, and thoughts?
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:16 PM   #1259
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Originally Posted by ForceFed4 View Post
Have an outdoor storage question; we're looking into one of those small resin garden sheds to keep a push mower and some garden tools in. Something about 5ft W x 3ft D x 5-6ft T (~50 cu ft). They all want a level base/foundation (reasonable). The space we'd put it is under a deck and currently mulch over dirt and 'close' to level. I'm willing to do some prep/leveling, but I'm also not going to pour a slab or sink footings to install a $300 resin shed.

Other options seem to be:
-gravel: ~4" or so - secure shed w/ auger anchors
-gravel + pavers: secure shed w/ dyna-bolts or similar
-pressure-treated wooden frame on piers or pavers(or gravel?)

WWOTD? I want to do it 'right' (or at least good enough), keeping in mind this is a 50 cu ft garden tool shed, and not a 2nd garage with heavy machinery and/or vehicles in it.

We might patio over the entire mulched area w/ pavers in the future, so I'm leaning that way. I'm flexible if there's a good reason not to do that though.
I'd make a frame (3-sided even) out of pressure treated 4X4 timbers just large enough to fit the shed. Drill and secure the posts to the ground with 18-24" rebar spikes, then backfill the frame with 3-4" of 3/4" crushed stone and tamp/level it. Should be more than fine.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:19 PM   #1260
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Originally Posted by Kenmichi View Post
I'm also curious. I love the tech integration and also saving monies.

But we don't have WiFi in our home, will that be an issue or just make some/most of the tech features useless?
Can't address the saving money part, I put the Nest in when I bought the house so I don't have a before level to compare against.

Without wifi the tech is basically useless. I have the thermostat and 3 of the smoke/CO detectors in my house (need to buy 2 more of those). The detectors also act as motion detectors for the thermostat, so if nothing is moving in the house it goes into away mode, and as soon as you come back in and pass near one, it kicks the thermostat back into normal mode. Also the tech allows it to detect if your phone is in the house via gps to go into and out of the away mode.

Without wifi none of this works, all of the units are connected together via wifi, as is the phone app.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:32 PM   #1261
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Originally Posted by noise boy View Post
Hey, so this is a good place to talk about my newest project. Replacement windows. I live in a rowhouse in downtown B-more, and it's about a 10 year old rehab, so the windows are 10 year old contractor grade vinyl replacements.

I want to replace them, just had a guy from Pella in today. Have other contractors coming tomorrow and Tuesday to do estimates.

I want paintable interiors, currently the trim in much of the house is black, and the white vinyl windows are hateful against it. I also want max sun thermal coating for them, my house faces east west, in the morning by 8 am it feels like there someone operating a blast furnace on the other side of my insulated blackout curtains from 10' away in bed.

Anybody been down this road, and thoughts?
I've put two Pella 700-series (wood frame, vinyl clad exterior) units in my house and was very happy with them.

You'll want Low-E glass and a minimum of dual pane (shouldn't be tough, almost all windows are nowadays). The key is properly sealing the windows when they are installed. A great window means nothing if there is wind and hot air blowing in around them.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:37 PM   #1262
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Originally Posted by Grap View Post
I've put two Pella 700-series (wood frame, vinyl clad exterior) units in my house and was very happy with them.

You'll want Low-E glass and a minimum of dual pane (shouldn't be tough, almost all windows are nowadays). The key is properly sealing the windows when they are installed. A great window means nothing if there is wind and hot air blowing in around them.
This is straight radiated heat from the sun hitting them, no exterior cover whatsoever, in the afternoon the back of the house gets it. I have noticed some draftiness in the winter with the cold coming in, but it's not terrible.

Jeld Wen does some sort of coating that is basically like window tint as an option.

So far the pella guy came in at 9400 for 7 windows, including install, etc. He was offering the Pella 450 series windows.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:53 PM   #1263
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Are you doing new construction windows or replacement units?

Any chance of replacing the windows yourself?

Lowes used to carry them in-stock (looking at Catonsville's site, they don't any more) for about $250 each, which would only cost $1,750 in windows, and $7,650 for installation.

My Pella windows with the Low-e glass doesn't generate too much heat from direct Sun, but they are smaller units. If it's a big concern, might be worth it to get the special coatings for Sun reflection.

As for brands, they pretty much all have the same features. Look for things like how much viewing area each brand gives you and warranties.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:06 PM   #1264
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Originally Posted by noise boy View Post
Can't address the saving money part, I put the Nest in when I bought the house so I don't have a before level to compare against.

Without wifi the tech is basically useless. I have the thermostat and 3 of the smoke/CO detectors in my house (need to buy 2 more of those). The detectors also act as motion detectors for the thermostat, so if nothing is moving in the house it goes into away mode, and as soon as you come back in and pass near one, it kicks the thermostat back into normal mode. Also the tech allows it to detect if your phone is in the house via gps to go into and out of the away mode.

Without wifi none of this works, all of the units are connected together via wifi, as is the phone app.
Thanks for the feedback.

Do you know if it uses a lot of data? When I say we don't have wifi I mean that we use a mifi device for our home's internet. The plan is shared with my wife's monthly data usage and is limited to 15gb.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:08 PM   #1265
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Thanks for the feedback.

Do you know if it uses a lot of data? When I say we don't have wifi I mean that we use a mifi device for our home's internet. The plan is shared with my wife's monthly data usage and is limited to 15gb.
I wouldn't think so, it's just data, not pictures or anything. If you did Nest cameras that would be a different story. Can you not hook up a wifi access point to your MiFi device?
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:11 PM   #1266
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I'd make a frame (3-sided even) out of pressure treated 4X4 timbers just large enough to fit the shed. Drill and secure the posts to the ground with 18-24" rebar spikes, then backfill the frame with 3-4" of 3/4" crushed stone and tamp/level it. Should be more than fine.
This is what I did under a much larger wood framed shed. Evened out the slight slope that I was on and made drainage much better.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:14 PM   #1267
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This is straight radiated heat from the sun hitting them, no exterior cover whatsoever, in the afternoon the back of the house gets it. I have noticed some draftiness in the winter with the cold coming in, but it's not terrible.

Jeld Wen does some sort of coating that is basically like window tint as an option.

So far the pella guy came in at 9400 for 7 windows, including install, etc. He was offering the Pella 450 series windows.
We purchased our house around this time last year. By mid-winter, we realized we couldn't get away without replacing most of the windows and the sliding glass door in the house. The furnace just couldn't keep up, and on really cold nights, it would run constantly just to maintain a temp in the low 50's inside. It sucked.

I had 4 or 5 vendors come by and I did all of my homework. I looked at Pella, and Anderson, and a few other brands. Some of the quotes I was getting were absolutely insane. If you start poking around the windows forums, you'll start to see one or two brands, depending on the region, that everyone is recommending. Okna being the big one for our area. (Website) They're based in PA and only sell on the East Coast. When I started looking into their product and talking with their vendors it was a no brainer. Materials and installation on 11 of their Deluxe Insul-Tec windows, and their sliding glass door, only set us back about $6500.

We had planned on only doing the downstairs windows, but because my daughter's room and the sliding glass door are East facing and get blasted by the sun in the summer, we did those as well. Her room is now the coolest in the house, and the sliding glass door stays cool to the touch after a whole day of direct exposure.

One of the best purchases I've ever made on a house. Don't think you need to spend big dollars on the well known name brands to get a quality product.

This site is a great resource.

And so is this.

Last edited by trehlo; 08-25-2016 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:26 PM   #1268
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Originally Posted by trehlo View Post
We purchased our house around this time last year. By mid-winter, we realized we couldn't get away without replacing most of the windows and the sliding glass door in the house. The furnace just couldn't keep up, and on really cold nights, it would run constantly just to maintain a temp in the low 50's inside. It sucked.

I had 4 or 5 vendors come by and I did all of my homework. I looked at Pella, and Anderson, and a few other brands. Some of the quotes I was getting were absolutely insane. If you start poking around the windows forums, you'll start to see one or two brands, depending on the region, that everyone is recommending. Okna being the big one for our area. (Website) They're based in PA and only sell on the East Coast. When I started looking into their product and talking with their vendors it was a no brainer. Materials and installation on 11 of their Deluxe Insul-Tec windows, and their sliding glass door, only set us back about $6500.

We had planned on only doing the downstairs windows, but because my daughter's room and the sliding glass door are East facing and get blasted by the sun in the summer, we did those as well. Her room is now the coolest in the house, and the sliding glass door stays cool to the touch after a whole day of direct exposure.

One of the best purchases I've ever made on a house. Don't think you need to spend big dollars on the well known name brands to get a quality product.

This site is a great resource.

And so is this.
Thanks for the info.

I think the trick for me is the interior finish. I have black trim in my house, but I am not sure future owners will stay with that, so I want to have the option to change the color. A lot of manufacturers don't do any sort of wood or paintable interior finishes. Currently I have white windows, against the black trim I hate them
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:12 PM   #1269
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Originally Posted by Grap View Post
I'd make a frame (3-sided even) out of pressure treated 4X4 timbers just large enough to fit the shed. Drill and secure the posts to the ground with 18-24" rebar spikes, then backfill the frame with 3-4" of 3/4" crushed stone and tamp/level it. Should be more than fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by misterwaterfallin View Post
This is what I did under a much larger wood framed shed. Evened out the slight slope that I was on and made drainage much better.
This sounds like the way to go then! Easier than I was fearing; really didn't want to deal with piers, etc. I even have some unused 4x4 landscape timber laying around that would probably work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by noise boy View Post
This is straight radiated heat from the sun hitting them, no exterior cover whatsoever, in the afternoon the back of the house gets it.
Jeld Wen does some sort of coating that is basically like window tint as an option.
Same situation at our place, only with a 3-panel sliding glass patio door. So 9' of solid glass (7' high) getting direct exposure all afternoon.

We replaced the 1990s original door with an Andersen low-e double glazed unit a couple months after moving in (that was an adventure - noone makes 3 panel patio doors anymore). We didn't get the extra tint option because it significantly darkened the glass and wouldn't match the rest of the house.

The thermal load is still noticeable, though much reduced. If the energy/heat issue is top priority, I'd say get the coating and deal with the aesthetic hit.

Last edited by ForceFed4; 08-25-2016 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:15 PM   #1270
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Originally Posted by ForceFed4 View Post
This sounds like the way to go then! Easier than I was fearing; really didn't want to deal with piers, etc.


Same situation at our place, only with a 3-panel sliding glass patio door. So 9' of solid glass (7' high) getting direct exposure all afternoon.

We replaced the 1990s original door with an Andersen low-e double glazed unit a couple months after moving in (that was an adventure - noone makes 3 panel patio doors anymore). We didn't get the extra tint option because it significantly darkened the glass and wouldn't match the rest of the house.

The thermal load is still noticeable, though much reduced. If the energy/heat issue is top priority, I'd say get the coating and deal with the aesthetic hit.
I am OK with the tinting, I would be doing all of the windows the same. The exterior color is also black (i like how it looks against the brick), so the tint won't be a hugely noticeable thing.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:18 PM   #1271
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Originally Posted by ForceFed4 View Post
This sounds like the way to go then! Easier than I was fearing; really didn't want to deal with piers, etc.


Same situation at our place, only with a 3-panel sliding glass patio door. So 9' of solid glass (7' high) getting direct exposure all afternoon.

We replaced the 1990s original door with an Andersen low-e double glazed unit a couple months after moving in (that was an adventure - noone makes 3 panel patio doors anymore). We didn't get the extra tint option because it significantly darkened the glass and wouldn't match the rest of the house.

The thermal load is still noticeable, though much reduced. If the energy/heat issue is top priority, I'd say get the coating and deal with the aesthetic hit.
Or at least use blinds/curtains to block the direct sunlight from coming through.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:20 PM   #1272
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Originally Posted by ForceFed4 View Post
Have an outdoor storage question; we're looking into one of those small resin garden sheds to keep a push mower and some garden tools in. Something about 5ft W x 3ft D x 5-6ft T (~50 cu ft). They all want a level base/foundation (reasonable). The space we'd put it is under a deck and currently mulch over dirt and 'close' to level. I'm willing to do some prep/leveling, but I'm also not going to pour a slab or sink footings to install a $300 resin shed.

Other options seem to be:
-gravel: ~4" or so - secure shed w/ auger anchors
-gravel + pavers: secure shed w/ dyna-bolts or similar
-pressure-treated wooden frame on piers or pavers(or gravel?)

WWOTD? I want to do it 'right' (or at least good enough), keeping in mind this is a 50 cu ft garden tool shed, and not a 2nd garage with heavy machinery and/or vehicles in it.

We might patio over the entire mulched area w/ pavers in the future, so I'm leaning that way. I'm flexible if there's a good reason not to do that though.
jgard did exactly this like a year ago, but he's a dick and won't tell you which solution he went with.
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:09 PM   #1273
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Or at least use blinds/curtains to block the direct sunlight from coming through.
I have thermal blackout curtains already, it's still brutal, like a blast furnace on the other side of the curtains brutal in the morning.
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:10 PM   #1274
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jgard did exactly this like a year ago, but he's a dick and won't tell you which solution he went with.
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:23 PM   #1275
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I want to wire up my 5hp 240v single phase compressor. My old house i used the water heater breaker that i wasnt using.


This house i dont have that luxury. I have 2 open spots in the panel but they are across from each other. Will it work? Could i possibly move something around in the box to get 2 that are next to each other?

I'm leaning towards hiring an electrician but not opposed to doing the work myself. Panels kinda scare me though.
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