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Old 05-09-2020, 03:01 PM   #2026
bluesubie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasWRXs View Post
Good stuff guys, thanks!
I'm at about 1,000 miles since the engine rebuild....was planning on scheduling a follow-up visit with the dealer just to recheck things pretty soon, and was debating having them do an early oil change...but I'm rethinking that and will just do it myself, probably with Motul or one of the other heavy duty low saps 5w30 oils, and get a UOA done to better understand what's going on, maybe at 5k? Does that sound like a smart plan to you guys? Most of my driving is a 30-40 minute commute twice a day mostly at highway speeds, with some back roads blasting on the weekends. It's Texas, so it's going to be getting hot here soon, and for now I'm off of the ethanol and just running MAP's stage 1 93 octane tune.
Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30, Motul X-clean EFE 5W-30 and Rotella T6 MV 5W-30 are all good choices if you want to stick with a 5W-30 that will stay in grade. I like the detergency on RT6 MV because of the lower calcium and boosted magnesium which helps mitigate LSPI. The Motul probably uses some ester base stocks though.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...-km-4500-miles

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...30#Post5340524

5k is the max that I would go on any of them.
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Old 05-09-2020, 04:12 PM   #2027
TexasWRXs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30, Motul X-clean EFE 5W-30 and Rotella T6 MV 5W-30 are all good choices if you want to stick with a 5W-30 that will stay in grade. I like the detergency on RT6 MV because of the lower calcium and boosted magnesium which helps mitigate LSPI. The Motul probably uses some ester base stocks though.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...-km-4500-miles

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...30#Post5340524

5k is the max that I would go on any of them.
Thanks bluesubie, I'm just getting educated on all this stuff, which I guess is probably pretty obvious. My thinking on staying with 5w30 for now is based on maintaining warranty coverage and, again, I'm off the ethanol for now.
I'm just starting to learn what to look for in the uoa reports...lots of reading...my wife is wondering wtf is up with reading for days and days and days about oil. Lol.

Last edited by TexasWRXs; 05-10-2020 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 05-09-2020, 05:37 PM   #2028
Straight6
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My wife thinks I lost my mind but I love reading and learning about this stuff.
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Old 05-13-2020, 01:02 PM   #2029
noobultimatum
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2016 WRX -- 102k chassis -- only 2k on built block

Cobb AP3
IAG stage 2 block - stock heads
killer B down pipe
EWG header - tial 38mm (2x)
GS TMIC
GS intake
GS EBCS
socal v3 turbo
killer B oil pick up (great oil pressure btw)
tapped manifold for M1 - 5 jets total (4 mani + 1 GS bung)
Aquamist methkit

Car was etuned for 93 and 93 + M1. Peak boost was 25psi tapering down to 20ish. The thing hauled HARD. Definitely fun and quick. For reference I was keeping up with scat pack chargers (assuming they were stock) and absolutely gapping 350/370z. No dyno since they were closed for this plandemic virus.

Cyl 3 toasted when corresponding meth jet popped out of the threading thus leaning out cyl 3. Waiting for tear down to see if block is salvageable with just replacing piston or if i need a new short block. Really hoping heads are fine.

I don't think I will ever tap plastic ever again. Mind you, I had inspected the lines just hours before the death pull. Probably just going to stick to the 1 jet on the GS tmic for cooling and go FLEXFUEL.
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Old 05-13-2020, 01:09 PM   #2030
gn4rwhals
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Holy crap that sucks, yeah I would opt for the IBR BRZ manifold if you are going to run that M1 manifold setup again, maybe talk to them to see if they can help create a solution for it.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:33 PM   #2031
kc2keo
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Things to note:
--Car is a 2015 Subaru WRX Premium 6-Speed manual
--As of this writing the car has close to 71K miles on it
--Her name is Julie
--From factory I got front and rear weathertech mats for a good price
--From factory I got a STi short throw shifter
--I've had multiple Blackstone lab results on my motor oil and it proves to hold up very well. I have been constantly using magnetic oil drain plugs for a while to catch any extra metal parts the filter doesn't get to/misses

Motor Oil Used:
--Motul 8100 X-Clean EFE 5W-30 Synthetic oil

Front and Rear Diff fluid Used:
--Motul Gear 300 Fully Synthetic Gearbox Oil - 75W90

Performance mods:
--IAG TGV Delete
--EGR delete (may be IAG but not sure. They all seem of similar quality anyway so doesn't seem to matter)
--Invidia 2015+ WRX J-Pipe/Downpipe (High-flow CAT) coupled with Corsa Catback muffler. I believe it is 3" piping
--IAG AOS street version
--COBB intake
--Perrin Pitch Stop
--Cobb 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid
--Process West top mounted Verticooler
--SouthBend Clutch Stage 2 Daily. Stock flywheel. Was resurfaced. Clutch and fork were done by my Tuner along with a Walnut blasting at around 45K miles.
--Verus Clutch fork and ball
--JR Tuned at PrimeMotoring on Dyno
--Premium Dimpled & Slotted Brake Rotors (#RB-47032)
--Front Akebono ACT1078 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set
--Rear Akebono ACT1114 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set
--Bled brakes using Motul (2 Pack) 100950 100% Synthetic Brake Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid 1/2 Liter or 500 ml

Non-Performance mods:
--Mid range hornblasters. I have a stock Subaru fog light switch going to 40 amp relay from old fog light set for the compressor in trunk. Horns are in bumper. Hooked with a 3 way switch to go from stock horns to train horn. Looks pretty stealthy in the car. Pain to install (neatly) and get working. Horn is triggered by the stock steering wheel horn
--BlackVue front and rear dashcams. Wiring routed neatly. Wired up to the cig plug in center console
--Pioneer AVH-X5600 2-DIN head unit. Was essential since the stock head unit left MUCH to be desired. Sound quality increased immensely and left stereo this way. Only gripe I have is it lacks good noise cancelation when on a phone call but otherwise works great. Would love a quality Android head unit but keeping this one. The stock speakers sounded WAY better afterwards
--All front headlights (high/low) changed over to LED from Subispeed. This was one of the first mods I did since the Stock bulbs were TERRIBLE. Blinkers left on stock bulbs because I could care less about that
--Backup alarm that I can switch on and off. Reverse lights work whether I have the alarm enabled or not. Just for fun. Combined with the train horn you can reverse, have reverse alarm enabled, and tap horn twice to sound like a huge 18-wheeler is backing up or something like that
--17" BBS wheels with all season Michellin Sports tires. Still have the stock wheels. May get set of summer and winters and switch them seasonally
--Max 360 Escort radar detector. Wired neatly and tapped into switched cig lighter wiring Put the switch for it neatly in console
--Interior lighting green from LEDGUYS

Current issue with car:
--Code P2270... Seems to be my rear O2 sensor. I may of resolved issue by ultimately putting new rear downstream sensor in car. Had tried with original sensor using one of those restrictor fittings but that is frowned upon since it is considered a defeat device. I had removed that and put sensor directly in muffler stream as it is designed to be.
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Old 07-06-2020, 09:26 AM   #2032
RobM
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2015 WRX

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And we care, why?
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Old 07-06-2020, 11:29 AM   #2033
noobultimatum
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ALL THE STAGES

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2keo View Post
Things to note:
--Car is a 2015 Subaru WRX Premium 6-Speed manual
--As of this writing the car has close to 71K miles on it
--Her name is Julie
--From factory I got front and rear weathertech mats for a good price
--From factory I got a STi short throw shifter
--I've had multiple Blackstone lab results on my motor oil and it proves to hold up very well. I have been constantly using magnetic oil drain plugs for a while to catch any extra metal parts the filter doesn't get to/misses

Motor Oil Used:
--Motul 8100 X-Clean EFE 5W-30 Synthetic oil

Front and Rear Diff fluid Used:
--Motul Gear 300 Fully Synthetic Gearbox Oil - 75W90

Performance mods:
--IAG TGV Delete
--EGR delete (may be IAG but not sure. They all seem of similar quality anyway so doesn't seem to matter)
--Invidia 2015+ WRX J-Pipe/Downpipe (High-flow CAT) coupled with Corsa Catback muffler. I believe it is 3" piping
--IAG AOS street version
--COBB intake
--Perrin Pitch Stop
--Cobb 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid
--Process West top mounted Verticooler
--SouthBend Clutch Stage 2 Daily. Stock flywheel. Was resurfaced. Clutch and fork were done by my Tuner along with a Walnut blasting at around 45K miles.
--Verus Clutch fork and ball
--JR Tuned at PrimeMotoring on Dyno
--Premium Dimpled & Slotted Brake Rotors (#RB-47032)
--Front Akebono ACT1078 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set
--Rear Akebono ACT1114 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set
--Bled brakes using Motul (2 Pack) 100950 100% Synthetic Brake Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid 1/2 Liter or 500 ml

Non-Performance mods:
--Mid range hornblasters. I have a stock Subaru fog light switch going to 40 amp relay from old fog light set for the compressor in trunk. Horns are in bumper. Hooked with a 3 way switch to go from stock horns to train horn. Looks pretty stealthy in the car. Pain to install (neatly) and get working. Horn is triggered by the stock steering wheel horn
--BlackVue front and rear dashcams. Wiring routed neatly. Wired up to the cig plug in center console
--Pioneer AVH-X5600 2-DIN head unit. Was essential since the stock head unit left MUCH to be desired. Sound quality increased immensely and left stereo this way. Only gripe I have is it lacks good noise cancelation when on a phone call but otherwise works great. Would love a quality Android head unit but keeping this one. The stock speakers sounded WAY better afterwards
--All front headlights (high/low) changed over to LED from Subispeed. This was one of the first mods I did since the Stock bulbs were TERRIBLE. Blinkers left on stock bulbs because I could care less about that
--Backup alarm that I can switch on and off. Reverse lights work whether I have the alarm enabled or not. Just for fun. Combined with the train horn you can reverse, have reverse alarm enabled, and tap horn twice to sound like a huge 18-wheeler is backing up or something like that
--17" BBS wheels with all season Michellin Sports tires. Still have the stock wheels. May get set of summer and winters and switch them seasonally
--Max 360 Escort radar detector. Wired neatly and tapped into switched cig lighter wiring Put the switch for it neatly in console
--Interior lighting green from LEDGUYS

Current issue with car:
--Code P2270... Seems to be my rear O2 sensor. I may of resolved issue by ultimately putting new rear downstream sensor in car. Had tried with original sensor using one of those restrictor fittings but that is frowned upon since it is considered a defeat device. I had removed that and put sensor directly in muffler stream as it is designed to be.
Try putting this in the reliability thread. This here thread is for motor failure.

Your motor seems to be just fine.
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:54 PM   #2034
3eyesraver
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Location: SOCAL - Sothern Cali
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ISM

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I read this ^^ halfway and feel like being trolled so skipped to the end. Turns out, I was trolled. His engine is fine...
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Old 08-07-2020, 04:19 PM   #2035
Shavenyak
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Model/Year: 2016 WRX Base 6MT
Milage:53,026
EM: None
Mods: None
Fuel: 91 (California)
Oil: Mobil 1 5W30
Circumstances: Driving home from the beach in moderate traffic, started losing power. Turned stereo off, heard rod knock.
Actual engine failure: Dealer only told me needs a new short block, but I assume spun bearing/rod knock. Will know more when they tear it down next week, dealer covering everything under warranty.

Note: I've owned modded WRXs and STIs before, this time I decided to just leave it alone and I'm glad I did.
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Old 08-13-2020, 08:51 AM   #2036
Rileye
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First post on Nasoic, came for unfortunate reasons. 6th Subaru, first turbo and WRX.

16 WRX bought with 85k miles, installed IAG AOS (street series) everything else stock.

87k miles, driving home from work with cruise at 74mph when a semi flung a few rocks at my car and cracked the windshield, coincidentally, (obviously unrelated) my car started loosing power (seemed like throttle was sputtering to Maintain speed). Oil temp went from 205 to 240, pulled off the highway and heard the knock. Shut down the engine, called a tow, and checked the oil (it was clean).

Dealership called me yesterday told me I need to replace everything (9400 in repairs).

Thought I was okay buying this WRX as it had one owner that was a mid-40 something year old guy with full service records. Guess not.
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Old 08-13-2020, 11:28 AM   #2037
gn4rwhals
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Not the first story I've heard with cruise control grenading engines on this platform, especially in 6th gear.
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Old 08-14-2020, 01:30 PM   #2038
Asm123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shavenyak View Post
Model/Year: 2016 WRX Base 6MT
Milage:53,026
EM: None
Mods: None
Fuel: 91 (California)
Oil: Mobil 1 5W30
Circumstances: Driving home from the beach in moderate traffic, started losing power. Turned stereo off, heard rod knock.
Actual engine failure: Dealer only told me needs a new short block, but I assume spun bearing/rod knock. Will know more when they tear it down next week, dealer covering everything under warranty.

Note: I've owned modded WRXs and STIs before, this time I decided to just leave it alone and I'm glad I did.
Yep that sounds like a hefty repair bill. Extended warrenty can be great.
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Old 08-14-2020, 01:32 PM   #2039
Asm123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rileye View Post
First post on Nasoic, came for unfortunate reasons. 6th Subaru, first turbo and WRX.

16 WRX bought with 85k miles, installed IAG AOS (street series) everything else stock.

87k miles, driving home from work with cruise at 74mph when a semi flung a few rocks at my car and cracked the windshield, coincidentally, (obviously unrelated) my car started loosing power (seemed like throttle was sputtering to Maintain speed). Oil temp went from 205 to 240, pulled off the highway and heard the knock. Shut down the engine, called a tow, and checked the oil (it was clean).

Dealership called me yesterday told me I need to replace everything (9400 in repairs).

Thought I was okay buying this WRX as it had one owner that was a mid-40 something year old guy with full service records. Guess not.
For that price I'd be looking at the factory service manual and planning the engine replacement myself. Can probably cut the cost in half that way.
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Old 08-14-2020, 01:47 PM   #2040
Asm123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIdude5252 View Post
2016 WRX base
75k (bought used with 52k)
Cobb AP, 93octane stage 2
Cobb j pipe, ets intake, removed restrictor pill, thick lady riding shotgun
5w30 Pennzoil
#1 cylinder spun rod bearing, (sounded like a machine gun knocking)
...I purchased a power train warranty from the dealer when I purchased the car. At first they denied the claim when the shop quoted replacement because of various "most likely modifications". After a month of explaining the intake (the only mod they could prove), they offered to reimburse for the cost of a used engine if I did it my self with before and after pics. I did it in my driveway, and they honored the reimbursement...
Engine # 2
Purchased a used motor (from a wrecked WRX) from a salvage yard. Same everything except this one had 67k on it. 300miles after installation, it started knocking. Exact reason unknown because the salvage yard did a small investigation of sorts, and offered a full refund including shipping....it went straight on the pallet.....I'm buying a damn
camry
Your setup doesnt seem to agree with the Fa20DIT
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Old 08-14-2020, 03:55 PM   #2041
noobultimatum
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I don't think anyone should be using cruise control on manual for anything under 3k rpms. 5th gear at 3k rpm = 70mph.
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Old 08-17-2020, 11:12 AM   #2042
SnoBrrru
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Location: Reno, NV
Vehicle:
'15 WRX

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Quote:
Originally Posted by noobultimatum View Post
I don't think anyone should be using cruise control on manual for anything under 3k rpms. 5th gear at 3k rpm = 70mph.
Totally agree. I am wary of it too. I'll set cruise control on flat highway and that's it, and with keeping RPM settled in a happy place.
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Old 08-19-2020, 10:10 AM   #2043
Mike1Juliet
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I don't know what kind of highways you guys are losing these engines on. Up here in the Adirondacks from i-87 to i-90 which is known for having rolling hills especially into the Berkshires of Massachusetts having a long hill climb to the highest point on i-90 east of the Dakotas I constantly run my cruise control at 70-80mph in 6th. The car never builds boost while under cruise control even through that mountain climb in the Berkshires.
How does cruise control cause such ludicrous cylinder pressures that you're getting bent rods? You'd think you'd be getting this from more severe lugging, there isn't anything wrong with mild pedal pressure in 6th even when starting low at 2000rpm ~60mph



I have an EGR/TGV delete with a Grimmspeed EBCS, 93 octane and flex fuel, dyno tuned at Bren Tuning. 32k miles and I run Motul 5w30 EFE, OEM oil filter

Last edited by Mike1Juliet; 08-19-2020 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 08-19-2020, 10:32 AM   #2044
noobultimatum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1Juliet View Post
I don't know what kind of highways you guys are losing these engines on. Up here in the Adirondacks from i-87 to i-90 which is known for having rolling hills especially into the Berkshires of Massachusetts having a long hill climb to the highest point on i-90 east of the Dakotas I constantly run my cruise control at 70-80mph in 6th. The car never builds boost while under cruise control even through that mountain climb in the Berkshires.
How does cruise control cause such ludicrous cylinder pressures that you're getting bent rods? You'd think you'd be getting this from more severe lugging, there isn't anything wrong with mild pedal pressure in 6th even when starting low at 2000rpm ~60mph



I have an EGR/TGV delete with a Grimmspeed EBCS, 93 octane and flex fuel, dyno tuned at Bren Tuning. 32k miles and I run Motul 5w30 EFE, OEM oil filter
My car would easily hit a little boost while using cruise control in 5th @ 70mph (3k rpm) if I came across anything -- steep like a short on-ramp. Most regular "hills" in highways here in FL arent steep enough of a climb to throw the car into low boost but I do see the boost get to -1 or 0 vaccume. Seeing that leads me to believe anything in cruise control low rpm + 6th gear would send the car into some boost too fast.

Mild pedal pressure in 6th means you are in control of the throttle = most likely throttling with out hitting boost at all. Cruise control will simply adjust the throttling to achieve set MPH. I would not trust that in 6th in general. Then again, I like to play it somewhat safe while doing daily driver things.

I try to understand the gearing in a very rudimentary sort of way --- higher gear at lower RPM = engine having to work harder to accelerate (aka lugging). There are enough granade stories out there on any platform where low rpm + high load results in a bent rod. I wouldn't risk it.
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Old 08-19-2020, 10:50 AM   #2045
Mike1Juliet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noobultimatum View Post
Mild pedal pressure in 6th means you are in control of the throttle = most likely throttling with out hitting boost at all. Cruise control will simply adjust the throttling to achieve set MPH. I would not trust that in 6th in general. Then again, I like to play it somewhat safe while doing daily driver things.
You're right, I mixed the two ideas without actually making a clear difference.

Yes, I can say reasonably that I can, in 6th gear at 2000rpm, mildly accelerate without pushing the turbo above 0 psi or anything that would be considered "lugging". I don't actually feel that the car is working very hard in this scenario.

My second point is that in my area's rolling hills or long hill climbs, 6th gear at 70-80mph doesn't appear to be lugging either in that the cruise control is able to maintain a set speed without making positive turbo pressure.

That being said I don't have a real idea as to what cylinder pressures I could be getting as turbo pressure doesn't tell you much about cylinder pressure, maybe that is lugging but I'm still having a hard time conceptualizing that this is severe enough to cause bent rods.
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Old 08-19-2020, 12:35 PM   #2046
noobultimatum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1Juliet View Post
You're right, I mixed the two ideas without actually making a clear difference.

Yes, I can say reasonably that I can, in 6th gear at 2000rpm, mildly accelerate without pushing the turbo above 0 psi or anything that would be considered "lugging". I don't actually feel that the car is working very hard in this scenario.

My second point is that in my area's rolling hills or long hill climbs, 6th gear at 70-80mph doesn't appear to be lugging either in that the cruise control is able to maintain a set speed without making positive turbo pressure.

That being said I don't have a real idea as to what cylinder pressures I could be getting as turbo pressure doesn't tell you much about cylinder pressure, maybe that is lugging but I'm still having a hard time conceptualizing that this is severe enough to cause bent rods.
In all honesty, it's not that common per the whole population of the car model. We only hear of it on forums and more specifically in the modded community.
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