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Old 09-10-2007, 02:37 AM   #51
clsmooth
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Last night my friend came over and we reverted back to the STi injectors and Link+ ECU. Ran outta time to get insurance, so today I called in 'sick' and we went for a tunning run, but only after figuring out a good combination of injector seals on the third try.

At first the Link was very finicky and frustrating. After a day of driving around, figuring it out, and charging the laptop back up 3 or 4 times, we have it tuned across the power band, up to 5 psi.

On an interesting side note, a factory, cat-less 2.5 RS cruises at an EGT of 1300*F. We have the Link tuned slightly on the rich side so it'd idle, and now it cruises at 1150 - 1200*F, even under boost. Almost can't get it past 1200* anymore.

It's a bit older, but for the price it's a nice setup for the time being, but we've agreed that when I build up my $1 engine down the road, that I'll get something more refined.
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Old 09-10-2007, 01:49 PM   #52
kgb
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So no rollers anymore for mine either? Just need to ensure it doesn't throw a code and everything is ready?

I would say I routinely hover around 1400-1500°F and on boosted runs I have peaked 1600°F - I'm pretty sure my 2 cats are shot as well but both of them are welded inline. Want to do a setup where I don't need to unweld to change out the cat...
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Old 09-10-2007, 04:33 PM   #53
clsmooth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgb View Post
So no rollers anymore for mine either? Just need to ensure it doesn't throw a code and everything is ready?

I would say I routinely hover around 1400-1500F and on boosted runs I have peaked 1600F - I'm pretty sure my 2 cats are shot as well but both of them are welded inline. Want to do a setup where I don't need to unweld to change out the cat...
It appears our cars are pretty much twins, so yes, only a sensor test for you as well. Yes, make sure you dont' have any codes and drive around AFTER you've checked that for at least an hour or so. (Apparently AirCare will know if you just cleared your codes yourself down the street and will ask you to come back later when there's enough data for them to scan.)

The previous setup that was in the car ran at 1400*F usually, and depending on conditions I guess, would also go up to 1500 - 1600*F. If your cats are shot, this could cause this, at least from my experience, and despite being welded in, you may need to have em replaced or fixed. But for AirCare, if you got no codes, you can still pass.

You may want to consider doing something about the cats cause my car's now running better then ever now that it's a bit cooler.
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Old 09-10-2007, 06:43 PM   #54
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Well, if I ever get my MegaSquirt in, I will have way more control - should have just went and upgrade to a Link+ instead but for all the money I have put in it, the MS should do a much better job on the fuel (and maybe the ignition since the Link-1 I have requires a minimum advance of 10°BTDC and can't do anything lower). Yes, it's practically a twin except for the turbo size - you have a T3/T04 with external waste-gate, I have a GT25R/GT28R with internal waste-gate. Cat will be replaced before AirCare but I want to see if I can get the MegaSquirt in before doing the Cat replacement

One more thing - are you running 1 or 2 cat now?

I believe you just need to ensure everything is "ready" because there is no history over OBD-II - I could be wrong though. It does take a while before the O2 sensor readings are ready. After replacing my front O2, my rear O2 is throwing code but that could be due to a bad cat throwing the readings way off
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:33 PM   #55
clsmooth
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Originally Posted by kgb View Post
Well, if I ever get my MegaSquirt in, I will have way more control - should have just went and upgrade to a Link+ instead but for all the money I have put in it, the MS should do a much better job on the fuel (and maybe the ignition since the Link-1 I have requires a minimum advance of 10BTDC and can't do anything lower). Yes, it's practically a twin except for the turbo size - you have a T3/T04 with external waste-gate, I have a GT25R/GT28R with internal waste-gate. Cat will be replaced before AirCare but I want to see if I can get the MegaSquirt in before doing the Cat replacement

One more thing - are you running 1 or 2 cat now?

I believe you just need to ensure everything is "ready" because there is no history over OBD-II - I could be wrong though. It does take a while before the O2 sensor readings are ready. After replacing my front O2, my rear O2 is throwing code but that could be due to a bad cat throwing the readings way off
As long as the MegaSquirt keeps you OBD2, you can even go through AirCare with that, cause the scan tool will still only read your factory ECU. Every car's different with its OBD2 logging. My bros told me to get new Toyota trucks through AirCare, you have to reset it then leave it overnight, then do 8 straight hours of specific driving. Drive stop n go for 40 min, then let it idle for 2 hours or something stupid, then hit the highway, etc. Some vehicles are a big pain.

I'm not running any cats at the moment, they're both hollowed out.
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Old 11-20-2007, 03:32 PM   #56
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Now that boost is working to its full potential for the first time since I've owned the car, the original, stock clutch with 125 xxx kms on it is starting to slip under initial boost. As always, I'm preparing.

Thus far got my clutch kit, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, new Subaru rear main seal and a stainless braided clutch line.



I hopefully get to pick up my free stock flywheel today that I'm going to resurface and lighten and then just fluids.
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Old 11-20-2007, 03:43 PM   #57
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Christ, pics of the STI hose plz...wanna see where you gonna put it
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Old 11-20-2007, 04:28 PM   #58
clsmooth
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Ah yes! Forgot about takin a pic of it for ya!



Hard to see straight on with the hood popped cause the strut bar's in front of it. It did pull the intercooler a bit further away from the firewall.
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Old 11-20-2007, 04:32 PM   #59
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^ Jealous!
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Old 11-28-2007, 01:15 AM   #60
clsmooth
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My free flywheel's been resurfaced and lightened (1 lbs, the most that could be taken off...)

Now just gotta convince my bros to help me change it haha
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:38 AM   #61
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Quote:
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That kinked hose feeding the I/C is going to be a bit of a flow killer no?
And yes, that kink ain't pretty, but that's how I got the car. March will be the redoing of the piping underneath; up and down pipe. After will be the piping on top.
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Old 12-02-2007, 05:52 AM   #62
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Today was clutch day at my bros. shop. He once changed the tranny on an 02 WRX so he was already fairly familiar with what's involved with a Suby. (Supposedly the guy sheared 1st and 2nd clean.)

I did manage to capture the moment where my bros. thinking, what did he get himself into.

Before going up in the air, we first pulled the intercooler, dog bone mount, connectors and starter outta the way from the top.

The best way to do things in the end was to take EVERYTHING outta the way.

I must say I'm very impressed with the light weight of the factory drive shaft. Almost feels like purchasing a carbon fibre shaft a waste of money.

Did get to the clutch eventually to dig it out.

It still had... maybe 1mm of pad left on the flywheel side of the disk. The teeth on the stock pressure plate were weak. I was able to push down on some with my thumb. 4 large, dual springs vs. 6 individual smaller springs on the new clutch.

Stock flywheel still seems good.

A resurfacing and it'd be good as new again.

A bit of insurance.

While everything's apart, popped in a new rear main seal from Subaru.

While my bros. took care of all that, I cleaned the tranny of the clutch rubbery dust and installed the new throw out bearing.

My bros.'s getting pretty damn good. In the time it took me to change this bearing, he had the old clutch and flywheel out and torquing down the new pieces.

New parts installed.

Despite a bit of a risk using used/free parts and ordered online, everything fit perfectly.

Tranny fit back on after a bit of lovin'


Brought the car back down and changed the clutch line for a stainless one.

I bought this thing over 2 years ago and never got around to installing it until now haha

All in all, we were there for 6 hours. The clutch part itself took 4, but there was the extra time of changing the fluids in the engine, tranny, diff and bleeding the clutch system. Plus, we found a broken off ground between the tranny and body of the car we wouldn't have found otherwise. Found a good spot for it on the engine and the car seems get to idle better now.

The only "bad" things that happened were we had to reuse the exhaust manifold gaskets, and there's a small leak but no big deal. Also, the top starter bolt almost snapped off. Got it out in one piece but the threads were severely ****ed. Ironically, this was the first 'big' bolt we took out... we're thinkin... oh **** LOL Everything else went absolutely smoothly. The longest part was connecting and mounting the new clutch line at the firewall. Neither of us could have small enough hands.

I'm also out on a bit of a limb by using one of those F1 Racing clutches off eBay. I just wanted something that can hold some boost for a few years while I built my other engine on the side. This thing is suppose to be able to handle something like 284 hp, so we'll see.

So far it drives quite nice! I've never had it running and driving this smooth before! Drove back from Abby to Van and it was great. Clutch feel reminds me of my Centreforce dual friction I had in my CRX years ago. Engages nicely at about halfway of peddle travel, vs. 1/4 off the floor with the old clutch. I don't have to rev it up as much to get goin from a red light.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:34 AM   #63
clsmooth
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I dunno why, but ever since I bought my car, I found the calm grey/black interior was always being interrupted by the bright yellow and red airbag warning stickers on the visors outta the corner of my eye.

I've been casually looking since, but I finally found a can of actual *GREY* vinyl paint! Last one sitting on the shelf at the newest crappy tire of all places. I usually only ever see a large quantity of black and a few white ones.



I sprayed them outside while it was a bit chilly, and it was starting to pull on the vinyl and make it wavey. I brought it inside to dry and it turned out fine. I also sliced off that clear plastic strap on the driver's one, that's meant to hold a map I guess, that I never have nor will ever use.

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Old 01-28-2008, 02:04 AM   #64
kgb
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Nice update - how's the synchros holding up for you? I think mine is going downhill rapidly to a point where I'm considering a rebuilt and change over to the LGT ratio. The clutch being a wear item is a major factor of me not going 6MT on the GC - imagine hammer that thing in and out to get to the clutch, it would become a 2 day job that I don't want to know the cost of labour about
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Old 01-28-2008, 02:28 AM   #65
Loomin
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how is the F1 clutch? i got one of those a few months ago. since then ive upgraded to an Exedy stage 2. the F1 was shredded in no time at all. lesson learned for me. i hope yours lasts longer than mine did.

the exedy stage 2 is very aggressive at first but once it breaks in its just fine.
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Old 01-28-2008, 09:14 PM   #66
clsmooth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgb View Post
Nice update - how's the synchros holding up for you? I think mine is going downhill rapidly to a point where I'm considering a rebuilt and change over to the LGT ratio. The clutch being a wear item is a major factor of me not going 6MT on the GC - imagine hammer that thing in and out to get to the clutch, it would become a 2 day job that I don't want to know the cost of labour about
My synchros seem fine. I changed fluid at the time, and the drain plug is magnetic in mine. There was a little bit of metal particles on it, but nothing that was of any concern

I called RR cause I had some clutch and tranny questions before I started taking my car apart, and if ever needed, they can change out the synchros for $800 or so and take a day?

The STi 6-speed likes to go through clutches, does it?
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Old 01-28-2008, 09:24 PM   #67
clsmooth
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Quote:
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how is the F1 clutch? i got one of those a few months ago. since then ive upgraded to an Exedy stage 2. the F1 was shredded in no time at all. lesson learned for me. i hope yours lasts longer than mine did.

the exedy stage 2 is very aggressive at first but once it breaks in its just fine.
Ya, I know I went out on a limb with an F1 clutch as well There was a clutch-burning smell for the first 2 weeks. I think it was a combination or break-in, and my over-gooping of lube on the input shaft my bros gave me **** for I think the excess lube was flying off the input shaft, and out and around the clutch disk. After almost exactly 2 weeks, the burning smell just stopped.

Once in a while though, there is a burning smell, can't quite explain why. It happens under normal take-off. Otherwise its still feeling like my old Centreforce DualFriction in my previous CRX.

I've always wanted to try an Exedy clutch with my previous vehicles including this one now, and will go that route for sure when I start building my other engine. Good the hear that it's a nice clutch after break-in! How much power is the Stage 2 rated to hold?
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Old 01-29-2008, 02:09 PM   #68
kgb
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I can't see the 6MT eating more clutches than 5MT, and if you have the right one for the 5MT my guess would be that it would probably last just as long. But I figure the cost to install a 6MT will more than cover any work you would need do on the 5MT, given how tough it is to move the 6MT in and out of a GC
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:16 PM   #69
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I can't see the 6MT eating more clutches than 5MT, and if you have the right one for the 5MT my guess would be that it would probably last just as long. But I figure the cost to install a 6MT will more than cover any work you would need do on the 5MT, given how tough it is to move the 6MT in and out of a GC
Aaahhh, I recall asking Hypa and some of his friends that came out to a mini-meet once, and they agreed the extra gear isn't worth the hassle...
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:22 PM   #70
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Aaahhh, I recall asking Hypa and some of his friends that came out to a mini-meet once, and they agreed the extra gear isn't worth the hassle...
maybe not the gear, but having DCCD, plus an all around WAY stronger gearbox more than justifies the hard labour.
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:52 AM   #71
clsmooth
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maybe not the gear, but having DCCD, plus an all around WAY stronger gearbox more than justifies the hard labour.
Ah! I'm either getting lazier, or cheaper, as I get older
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Old 01-30-2008, 02:15 AM   #72
kgb
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I wanted DCCD, but on a 5MT, and apparently, if you can find the EMCD and the lay shaft, pop open the transfer case and you get a 35:65 open diff until you wire in a controller. The open rear bias makes a difference in how the car handles. I don't really need the extra gear, and in fact as it stands right now, I find it a tad too short and spreads in the wrong place.
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:27 PM   #73
clsmooth
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Originally Posted by kgb View Post
I wanted DCCD, but on a 5MT, and apparently, if you can find the EMCD and the lay shaft, pop open the transfer case and you get a 35:65 open diff until you wire in a controller. The open rear bias makes a difference in how the car handles. I don't really need the extra gear, and in fact as it stands right now, I find it a tad too short and spreads in the wrong place.
I find the gearing very similar to the CRX Si I had before. It's a familiar feeling for me for quite some time, so I find the tranny neither too tall nor too short cause I'm so used to it.
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Old 03-09-2008, 02:56 PM   #74
clsmooth
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I decided to do something about the pile of stainless sitting in my living room collecting dust, so I installed the header yesterday at least. The rest need's to wait until the barn's rewired for the welder on our side. Pics aren't the greatest, forgot my camera at home so it's phone pics...

Before


During


After


Had to replace a stud with a bolt on the driver's side, but, NO MORE LEAKS! I can't wait to do the rest... the up-pipe flange is so warped, I had to cake on the orange seal stuff to make up the difference for now


BYAA!



Hard to say if and how much more power's been added, but things happen a bit sooner and faster now. Before it would kinda ooze up to 4 - 4.5 psi, and then eventually creep up to 5. Now it seems to snap up to 5 compared to before.

My friends said it finally sounds like a Suby. I'm not used to it yet and still think it's an exhaust leak somewhere

Oh, and special thanks to my friends for the help

Last edited by clsmooth; 03-09-2008 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:34 AM   #75
clsmooth
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Tackled probably the biggest project to date on the car over the long weekend. Had to bail on the VIC Group ride, Buddy never showed up for our ride, trapped at the shop, pulled an all nighter, sleep deprived, food deprived, everthing hurts... but the drive home was itself was worth it.

Got the car up on the hoist and removed the rusted, leaking and cracked up & down pipes. The setup that came with the car is a 'floating' design, in that the turbo's not bolted to the block. We've worked on other Subaru's with the turbo bolted to the back of the block, and felt the floating setup is less a pain so we stayed with it. It was also my friend's first real experience welding stainless, so it was quite the adventure for both of us.

Disconnecting the charge pipe and oil lines above, and dropping everything out in one piece took about only an hour in itself.



Not pretty, but got everything apart, and bye-bye (I hate) HKS wastegate! BYAA!




Original up pipe


Original down pipe, with 2 hollowed out cats... yes, 2 cats



Underneath nudity


Turbo was fine, zero shaft play, spun very nicely. Only 1 bolt broke in the whole process, the upper most of the 5 downpipe bolts

Last edited by clsmooth; 05-19-2008 at 12:47 PM.
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