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Old 01-06-2009, 07:53 AM   #51
gto7419
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wrong thread - and, the link posted explains why the tgvs are there - notice the pictures show the car at idle only... The car uses the tgvs at idle and slightly off idle... The rest of the time they are open and limiting flow...
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:38 AM   #52
IllNastyImpreza
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Hey Jeff, you should delete the tumble valves on your FORD. .......................


hows that thing runnin anyway ? have you thought about puttin that EWG settup on it yet?
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:16 PM   #53
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What will deleting the tgvs do as far as emissions?
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:29 AM   #54
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Jasper... what were you saying about how to get around the CEL issues when fully deleting the rods????
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:28 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crpwrx View Post
What will deleting the tgvs do as far as emissions?
results vary, and are car/application specific. i have NO idea what they'll do with emissions on your car

Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Kerr View Post
Jasper... what were you saying about how to get around the CEL issues when fully deleting the rods????
i didn't say anything about getting around the CEL. if you decide to go as far as doing your own TGV deletes, you're PROBABLY resourceful enough to figure out how to fix CEL's. if you're not, i wouldnt recommend tearing apart the top half of your motor by yourself.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:04 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper View Post
r
i didn't say anything about getting around the CEL. if you decide to go as far as doing your own TGV deletes, you're PROBABLY resourceful enough to figure out how to fix CEL's. if you're not, i wouldnt recommend tearing apart the top half of your motor by yourself.
I may have misunderstood. I took it that there was an easy electronic fix if you pulled the sensors and actuators. I know they are dependent on each other to avoid the CEL. I am not afraid of CELS... been running with cat inefficiency for 5 years running a unichip. Nor am I afraid of tearing my car apart.... first mod was 2 weeks after I got it in 02! After Subaru screwed me on my tranny its been downhill.... FAST! Complete Cusco race suspension, tranny rebuild with RAs, up, down, header, pump, injectors, turbo, pulleys, intercooler, full leather, stereo... its all been replaced. This is the first time into my engine, but I have rebuilt many engines including subes... I run a salvage yard/shop.

Anyway, if there isn't an easy fix, I will probably just knife blade the rods and reinstall. My engine is fine, but I have an 05 Legacy GT engine (and driveline) I am going to set in it, and I want to do as much to it as I can while its on the stand.
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Old 04-16-2009, 04:55 PM   #57
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^^ There is an extremely easy fix for the TGV CEL, you need proper engine management and someone who knows how to use it. Talk to your tuner.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:53 PM   #58
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I just did my TGV delete a couple weeks ago, (03 WRX) honestly the hardest part of the whole thing is pulling the intake manifold. But I was kinda dissapointed with the results, I did notice better response, that was for sure. no real power gains though, however the improved response makes it feel like theres more power. a G-Tech told me my car had roughly 4 more HP. The biggest plus for me was that blipping the throttle is much quicker, making double clutching and heel toe shifting easier. In the end I would only recommend this mod to those who have already done their fair share of wrench turning and or those who are bored with a fair amount of time to kill. I have a feeling this mod would have better results on more heavily upgraded cars (im still running a stock turbo) Id like to hear from someone who has full on stage two or three and then did this mod.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:21 PM   #59
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Supergoo... unfortunately, I don't think my old-skool unichip can kill the cels; accounts for them, but does not turn them off. I may have to change mgt. anyway when I put the 2.5 in... I do not know how much variance the uni can manage.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:26 PM   #60
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^^ You can disable the TGV code with RomRaider.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:16 PM   #61
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did mine last week, I left the divider wall though and welded the holes shut. I havent installed them yet but have the cel turned off already. I also shaved all the sensor mounts on the outside aswell.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:08 AM   #62
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sorry... I just... well never mind, sorry
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:04 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subergoo View Post
I just did my TGV delete a couple weeks ago, (03 WRX) honestly the hardest part of the whole thing is pulling the intake manifold. But I was kinda dissapointed with the results, I did notice better response, that was for sure. no real power gains though, however the improved response makes it feel like theres more power. a G-Tech told me my car had roughly 4 more HP. The biggest plus for me was that blipping the throttle is much quicker, making double clutching and heel toe shifting easier. In the end I would only recommend this mod to those who have already done their fair share of wrench turning and or those who are bored with a fair amount of time to kill. I have a feeling this mod would have better results on more heavily upgraded cars (im still running a stock turbo) Id like to hear from someone who has full on stage two or three and then did this mod.
this is a subtle mod. subtle mods DO add up...

i am waiting until i need to remove the manifold for some other purpose, like switching to parallel fuel rails, and maybe adding some phenolic spacers.
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:16 PM   #64
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SuperORb... what is this ROM Raider?

SuperGOo... err, what was that about?

Will the CEL cause any type of poor running or just a CEL? I don't care if a light is on, as long as the car runs properly (for being modded), and doesn't blow/burn up! As I said, I've had a CEC for years now.
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:27 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Kerr View Post
SuperORb... what is this ROM Raider?

SuperGOo... err, what was that about?

Will the CEL cause any type of poor running or just a CEL? I don't care if a light is on, as long as the car runs properly (for being modded), and doesn't blow/burn up! As I said, I've had a CEC for years now.
Basically, you read your current ROM on ECU to laptop. Then, you disable the code and then flash the modified ROM back onto your ECU. You need a Tactrix cable to do this. The 1.3 version is fine.

http://www.romraider.com/

I can't believe you've got a vf22 and no engine management. Does the car even run?
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:05 PM   #66
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I am running a Unichip; you have to remember, I have been on here since 02! (still don't know why I am a scoobie newbie!) I bought my car new and started modifying it. Unichip was the thing back then - even before utec, and yes, it has been tuned and dynoed by Grossman tuning in Louisville, Ky. I think they took it to Autolab to dyno (Jon Grossman only has the unichip software - no dyno). Last time it was calculated at 330 at the flywheel on 17psi. Don't remember the wheel torque off hand, upper mid 2s.

I figure I will have to upgrade mgmt anyway putting in the 2.5; I don't know how robust the unichip is.
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:31 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Kerr View Post
I am running a Unichip; you have to remember, I have been on here since 02! (still don't know why I am a scoobie newbie!) I bought my car new and started modifying it. Unichip was the thing back then - even before utec, and yes, it has been tuned and dynoed by Grossman tuning in Louisville, Ky. I think they took it to Autolab to dyno (Jon Grossman only has the unichip software - no dyno). Last time it was calculated at 330 at the flywheel on 17psi. Don't remember the wheel torque off hand, upper mid 2s.

I figure I will have to upgrade mgmt anyway putting in the 2.5; I don't know how robust the unichip is.
Well, you can get free maps from XPT and flash them to your ECU easily. Plus, you can change numerous settings. Most tuners can tune OS (Open Source) so that shouldn't be an issue.

It's probably more robust than the Unichip.
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Old 04-18-2009, 01:12 AM   #68
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I believe I will look into it.

I just finished pulling the 05 LGT driveline and big brake upgrade... Christ those rotors are HUGE! If I could just get the shift fork out of the LGT trans, I'd be set! It doesn't have the plug and hidden pin like the WRX...
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Old 04-18-2009, 02:52 AM   #69
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damn, almost did this to my friends bugeye
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:02 AM   #70
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When I say shift fork... I mean clutch fork... I'm having trouble getting it out of the t/o bearing
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:10 PM   #71
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Just did my TGV install this weekend and it was not easy but it was worth in the end at least for the satisfaction of a job well done.

It took me a total of 9 hours over two days to take apart the old setup and put the new one in.

In addition to the TGV's I also replaced the fuel rails (with OEM's), all new high pressure flexible hoses, and thermal insulating lower gaskets.

I had bought a second manifold and riser set to do the pnp and coating work beforehand. I had to transfer the harness, fuel rails and ancillary fittings after I got the old manifold off the car.

My TGV setup is ported using alumacut burs and polished. The holes were filled using a composite mixture of JB-Weld impregnated with aluminum shavings. The upper intake manifold also received a light port and heavy polish job to match the risers. The whole assembly was coated with Thermotec black and installed with new OEM metal upper gaskets.

One of the things I found with the old manifold and gaskets were that the lower metal gaskets had rusted and stuck to the heads. So I stuffed the intake ports with paper towels and a little petroleum jelly, scrapped off as much of the old gaskets as I could and then prepped the mating service with medium grit gasket removing abrasive pads using my air angle grinder. Made everything nice and shiny smooth.

I did actually think about going into the head ports a little to polish but I thought better of it as the awkward positioning to reach the ports while their still on the car did not lend itself to precise workmanship required.

Results? Immediately when I started the car it was different in terms of sound. It sounded meaner and felt lighter on the throttle as well. My setup targets 22 psi from my JDM TD04HL-15T and boost did feel a bit quicker on the butt-dyno.

My car is self tuned using RomRaider/ECU Flash and I defeated all of the prescrided CEL's. I have not had a chance to do any significant road tuning but EGT's are lower at cruise for one thing. Although during a brief test session on Sunday I found that I have a bad coil pack! I will be replacing all four with either OEM's and an ignition booster or some Okada plasmas. I'll start testing after the new coil packs are put in.

For me this is part of the prep to go to my small 16G setup. I have a JDM unit that I ported and polished and has been sitting in a box in my garage for about a year and I really want to get it on the car. EWG options are in the mix too. I'm leaning towards the Turbo XS uppipe using an adapter for a 38mm Tial. The new GS unit seems nice as well.

Over the next week or so I am going to clean, port, polish and coat the take-off manifold and it will be for sale. I'm thinking that this one will be done in VHT red. Those who are interested in buying it shoot me a PM!

Lastly I do wish I had upgraded the turbo inlet to a hard pipe. What a piece of garbage the OEM unit is!

-soobaviator
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Old 04-21-2009, 12:05 AM   #72
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Thank you, good to know.
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Old 04-23-2009, 01:12 PM   #73
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thanks for the help!
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:30 PM   #74
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Here's a tip. You can use a Carbide Grit Rod Saw blade for removing the main chunk of aluminium. Takes about 10 minutes for each side.
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:28 AM   #75
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I used a long rotozip blade on full speed to take out the large chunks. It took about 5 minutes per side, but then I spent forever with the tiny dremel 80 grit sanding barrel turds.

I am going to use a special blend of sand and elmers glue to block the shaft holes.
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