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12-16-2014, 06:52 PM | #51 |
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Forgive me if I get this wrong, but are you only tack welding the panels then filling it in with body filler? I know that Everglass is strong, but you don't want to have the piece of mind of having the panels completely welded together (not just tacked)?
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12-16-2014, 07:36 PM | #52 |
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I tacked it every 1/2", filled the rest with glass reinforced filler than panel bond on the back side.
I did it like this because the other thread did it that way and they knew a lot more about this than I do. Plus the oem panel is tacked every inch, so I figure this is good enough. Also I didn't want to run a bead and put too much heat into the metal. To be honest, maybe you have a point. This is also kinda learning experience for me so I guess well find out. |
12-19-2014, 03:27 AM | #53 |
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What other thread are you referring to?
It's hard to tell from the pictures but you have the sedan fender overlapping the wagon metal slightly right? Or is it a straight butt weld? |
12-19-2014, 07:21 AM | #54 |
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^ http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2143885
It's great thread that explains meany things but also leaves out some details so I've been using it as a loose guide rather than a step by step. And yes, I have the fenders overlapping by about 1/4". The IAG guys did it by straight butt welds. So it can go both ways. I chose to do it this way because the thread mentioned above said that by doing it this way it's easier to blend the fenders together when it comes to that part. He said that because if you cut the fenders a little bit below the crease, it's easy to blend up to the crease. So that's what I tried to do. But after the first round of sanding i'm starting to realize it's not gonna work out as intended. IE it's gonna be really hard to sand it in such a way that I'll have a straight crease going across the fender. I'll hopefully have more time to work with it next week and try again. Last edited by Bad Noodle; 12-19-2014 at 07:31 AM. |
12-21-2014, 08:11 AM | #55 |
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I'm currently finishing up the major filler work. What do you guys think of sparying it with
[IMG] Rustolium Filler Primer [/IMG] Then sanding and letting it sit while I do the other side. Then when everything is ready. Do a fine sand, cover with: Then do a really fine sand and go to paint from there? |
12-21-2014, 10:58 AM | #56 |
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Do you have a paint gun?
I'm not a huge fan of spray can primers, although I use etch in a can occasionally. The 2K high build urethane primers will go on much thicker, and be easier to work with than a spray can product. There's also less chance you'll get into trouble with incompatibilities between the primer and the base coat, which can cause wrinkling and lifting. If you are going to stick with rattle can primers, I think the epoxy on top is a good idea, but I would do all your body work and sanding on the high build primer, and then shoot a coat of reduced epoxy as a sealer to ensure no issues between the primer and the base coat. The product you listed above is probably a little thick for this, and I've never looked to see what rattle ran sealer products are available. No need to sand the sealer coat though. Go right from the sealer to base coat. Duncan Just a note, but generally the epoxy primers are used as an undercoat for the high build primer. You can even lay bondo over it. Epoxy is nice because it provides great protection from corrosion, but it's generally more difficult to sand than a high build primer. |
12-21-2014, 11:17 AM | #57 |
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like duncan said the epoxy prime is more to seal the bare metal against corrosion. u can use spray can primer i just left a shop that literally only uses it (hacks) but it can work.u just need to use it in multiple medium coats with 15 20 mins between coats. if u try to spray too much at a time u may create solvent pop which looks like hundreds of pinholes. also like duncan said watch out for reactions between the base and primer and even between the primer and the previous paint. the waterborne paints are especially finicky
keep up the good work |
12-21-2014, 04:48 PM | #58 |
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Awesome, thanks for all the good info. I'm definitely learning a lot from you guys.
Today I finished the rough revision. Still need to reshape a couple small spots but it's hard to tell what the contours look like till it's all the same color. Did a etching primer than a high full primer. Again, will sand and reshape again. |
12-21-2014, 05:04 PM | #59 |
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It looks good. What grit is that up to? If you're at the 400 grit stage you can switch to wet sanding and will probably get a little more life out of the paper.
Also, I find that wiping down the panel with a wax and grease remover, or even getting it damp and shiny sometimes helps to get a good assessment to how you're doing. Guide coats are also helpful. I use a dry guide coat, but a light coat of a color contrasting primer also works. Have you put any thought into your plan for the final coats, in terms of blending, etc... Duncan |
12-21-2014, 05:32 PM | #60 |
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Project Widebody Wagon - slowly moving towards success
Thanks dude. Contrast color primer is a great idea. That'll work perfect. Gonna have to pick some up tomorrow.
This is only at 120 grit. Gonna do the other side then the bumper. It'll probably be spring by then and I'll be able to sand outside. I haven't thought about the top cost and blending so I'm all ears on that front. But I did pick up some rubberized coating from Eastwood with the extension nozzle to spray the inside. |
12-21-2014, 06:44 PM | #61 |
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If you're done with the body filler stage, the 120 is a little aggressive. I do my blocking with 180 grit. 220 also works. Don't worry about sanding through the primer. Block with 180 till it's straight, then spray another coat of high build. If you go all the way to metal, you'll need to reprime with multiple coats of high build primer and start again with the blocking. If you're still hitting metal, you didn't do enough in the body filler stage to get the panel mostly straight. Make sure you're sanding the panel in an x pattern, this will prevent you from putting a wave in it. 12" rubber durablock would work well for this. 3M also makes some hard rubber blocks for sanding.
When the panel is straight, switch to 400 grit and take the wave (orange peel) out of the primer. The 400 grit will also take out the 180-220 grit sanding scratches. Depending on the paint you're using, you might have to go up to 600 grit. Read the tech sheet for the product you're using to make sure. On a Subaru, the quarter panel's not too bad because there's a rubber insert for the roof rack that starts on the inside of the a-pillar and goes to the back of the roof. I would do the blend on this section because it's narrow. When you spray your clear, you can spray the entire thin strip including the a-pillar and it'll look like one paint job. On the bottom, you probably have a side skirt, so it really doesn't matter. You'll also have to think about how you want to do the jams. This might be more, or less information than you need. Good luck. Don't rush this stage. Duncan |
12-21-2014, 07:17 PM | #62 |
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^ thanks dude. That's exactly the type of info I was looking for. Much appreciated!
The thing I'm gonna have to work out is the crease that flows through the door handles. It's not straight. I'm gonna put some more filler on and try again. Any hints about how to make it work? Will definitely pick up a bigger sanding block. |
12-22-2014, 11:01 AM | #63 |
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a couple more pics because I had to move the car around in my tiny garage to start work on the other side. From what I could measure, the new fenders are about 3/4" wider. I have 10mm wheel spacers on in these pics, so there will be room for some nice wide wheels, especially once I get the fender flares on. Then again I picked up some 06 sti lat links which will push the wheels out about 1"... so i guess we'll see.
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12-22-2014, 12:02 PM | #64 |
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have you figured out what you're going to do about the rear bumper?
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12-22-2014, 02:41 PM | #65 |
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This is going to be awesome. In for updates!
Really cool to see someone tackle with DIY style. |
12-22-2014, 04:57 PM | #66 |
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12-22-2014, 08:48 PM | #67 | |
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They will probably wind up being to short as far as the wheel arches go. That is not quite line up with the quarter-panel/fender. Sent from the twilight zone using NASIOC |
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12-23-2014, 04:07 PM | #68 |
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From his pic, they are too long.
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12-23-2014, 05:18 PM | #69 |
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I'm thinking of:
Just need to know how to stitch the plastic back together. is plastic welding any good? |
12-23-2014, 09:01 PM | #70 |
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Plastic welding is an option. 3m and others also make epoxys kits that are designed for bumper repair. They use matting on the back to help maintain strength.
Also be careful you use a body filler that's compatible with bumper covers. Last edited by dunk; 12-24-2014 at 04:28 PM. |
12-24-2014, 05:10 PM | #71 |
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12-24-2014, 05:15 PM | #72 |
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OP, do you know how many hours you have put in so far?
Kudos for taking this on. That's quite a bit of work. Sent from the twilight zone using NASIOC |
12-24-2014, 06:20 PM | #73 |
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^ I honestly don't know. I think IAG took 5 days to do it. Most of my time was spent on research and prep work. If this was plug and play it'd go quick but because you gotta figure all the little things , the time stacks up. If you've done it before and know exactly where to cut, it could be done in 3 full days. I've never done this so I'm taking about 30 hours a side.
Yesterday I spent 4 hours taking the right side apart and fighting to get the fuel filler pipe off. Last edited by Bad Noodle; 12-25-2014 at 12:50 PM. |
12-26-2014, 05:57 PM | #74 |
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Other side:
Fender lines up pretty good. Much easier to get to this point the 2nd time around. took about 2 hours to measure up and cut up to this point. Not really too happy with the door gap, but not sure what can be done about it. If i move the fender up or down, the creases will not align. ... maybe some filler to close up the gap... I dunno |
12-26-2014, 06:11 PM | #75 | |
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How is the gap at the front of the door. Can you better the alignment by moving the door?
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