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Old 04-17-2015, 04:05 PM   #26
Patrick Olsen
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The point of filling, re-drilling and timesert-ing the calipers would be to change the mounting location so you could use the calipers with whatever rotors you wanted (presumably STI rotors).
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Old 04-17-2015, 06:28 PM   #27
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Default Cadillac CTS-V Brembos vs STi Brembo's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
The point of filling, re-drilling and timesert-ing the calipers would be to change the mounting location so you could use the calipers with whatever rotors you wanted (presumably STI rotors).

Ahh guess I never looked into it..
Either way by the time you ghettoiZe some calipers it seems like enough time would have been spent to just get a nice set of brembos or two pots, and what is brembos or these ctsv brakes going to offer over two pots or just stainless lines and nice pads? Are you tracking your outback?


Idk why im against the idea just seems rather pointless to put so much effort to tell your bros you have ctsv brakes.


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Old 04-18-2015, 10:23 AM   #28
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I do a lot of driving 22k+ miles. i do track my car once a year. Main reason is the fact that my obxt brakes where under powered and now the lgt brakes are just sticking and they still feel over whelmed stopping my 3600lb car.
Modulation on LGT and obxt brakes is horrible well known issue.
Sti brembos are a massive upgrade even though they are 10mm larger.
Problem with sti brembos is that because they are compatible will all other Subaru they are over priced used.
The Evo brembo's have the issue of bleeder upside down and Nissan 4pots can't use all the lgt rotor so u heat soak them easily. their are lots of different parts available. the 6pot kit is awesome. would love to get it but it's 3x my budget right now.
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Old 04-18-2015, 02:17 PM   #29
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Default Cadillac CTS-V Brembos vs STi Brembo's

They are an upgrade in terms of heat dispersion and a marginal upgrade in pedal feel...brembos will not help your car stop any faster.

Stock brakes aren't "underpowered", but more likely some things have been skipped over or parts are worn or not ideal in your specific setup.

Have you done prides/pads/fluid yet? Tire compound is hugely important. Just saying "255's" doesn't mean much - especially when you don't mention wheel dimensions. They could be crappy nexen or wanli tires, and in that case size is irrelevant.
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Old 04-18-2015, 03:22 PM   #30
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Or any brake ducting...
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:14 AM   #31
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I run sticky hankook 255/50R17's When i'm doing 70 on the highway. stomp on the brakes and your face should be torn off with the right setup. I run lgt calipers dba 4k slotted rotors and hawk hps 5.0+ pads and grimmpseed brace. Fluid is new i flushed it last summer. it's never been what i wanted since i swapped. yes it is great but my redline and my cavalier i built with upgraded pads and rotors would rip your face off. The last STI/wrx cruise i could feel how bad this setup compares. STI ms swap just makes your brakes an on off switch due to the differences and SS lines aren't going to improve the stopping power. Ive already upgraded the brakes to lgt spec. Subaru really didn't design the brakes for performance.
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:29 AM   #32
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Quote:
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I run sticky hankook 255/50R17's When i'm doing 70 on the highway. stomp on the brakes and your face should be torn off with the right setup. I run lgt calipers dba 4k slotted rotors and hawk hps 5.0+ pads and grimmpseed brace. Fluid is new i flushed it last summer. it's never been what i wanted since i swapped. yes it is great but my redline and my cavalier i built with upgraded pads and rotors would rip your face off. The last STI/wrx cruise i could feel how bad this setup compares. STI ms swap just makes your brakes an on off switch due to the differences and SS lines aren't going to improve the stopping power. Ive already upgraded the brakes to lgt spec. Subaru really didn't design the brakes for performance.
You think just slapping on parts some aftermarket parts is all you need to do?

How about brake pedal free play? How about looking into alternative master cylinders? Perhaps you need something better than Hawk pads.
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:48 PM   #33
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Nope swapping parts with out research is never the answer.
Pads where stoptech streets and then advanced auto ceramics before hawks.
That's why i was in this thread to get info on this. to see how well they worked since they where designed to stop a heavier car.
Brake pedal is mushy when i had the obxt brakes and the lgt brakes have firmed it up. a different master was researched since to replace it you need a different booster. sti master and booster bolt up but have the issue of making the brakes an on off switch.
If no one has any information on this swap then i won't try it. I'm not a shop so research and development isn't in the budget.
It's a daily driver so i will just save up and buy the innovative setup and get sti brembo's for the rear. Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-19-2015, 02:01 PM   #34
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Also 3600 pounds is not that heavy
A mustang gt weighs that much...


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Old 04-19-2015, 05:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightmaresmk View Post
I run sticky hankook 255/50R17's When i'm doing 70 on the highway. stomp on the brakes and your face should be torn off with the right setup. I run lgt calipers dba 4k slotted rotors and hawk hps 5.0+ pads and grimmpseed brace. Fluid is new i flushed it last summer. it's never been what i wanted since i swapped. yes it is great but my redline and my cavalier i built with upgraded pads and rotors would rip your face off. The last STI/wrx cruise i could feel how bad this setup compares. STI ms swap just makes your brakes an on off switch due to the differences and SS lines aren't going to improve the stopping power. Ive already upgraded the brakes to lgt spec. Subaru really didn't design the brakes for performance.

I would ****can those pads....they are at least part of the issue....it is possible that you have some other issue as well, but

I would get some different pads--something less....something more....better


and maybe even replace the master cylinder and get a master cylinder brace

and what tires...SPECIFICALLY.....EXACTLY are you running???

is the ABS engaging when you stomp the pedal?
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:24 PM   #36
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I am still looking into pads.
I already have the grimmspeed master cylinder brace
Tires are these.
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...0&rd=17&cs=255
ABS doesn't turn on unless it's snow or really wet out.
Through out my build the brakes have been the week spot. I'll just save my cash and add a BBK setup to next step. 6spd was the best.
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:35 PM   #37
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As has been said several times - its not going to simply work like that. it won't have the impact on stopping distance that you think it will. Look at the stopping distances between the wrx and sti (at least for 06-14, haven't checked the 2015 braking numbers) are within a couple of feet of each other, which can easily be explained by a few key differences - and its nothing to do with the brakes.

the rotors literally mean nothing.

I agree with scotty about the pads, and I would even look at new tires as well.
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Old 04-19-2015, 10:37 PM   #38
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That is not a great tire at all....
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:12 AM   #39
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OK...ua got **** pads...**** tires...and no mc brace....and likely need to re-bleed

you don't need any bbk...you NEED to un-do what you have done wrong and move ahead
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:54 AM   #40
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I know the pads are crap. It's my third set of pads i have tried.
the tires do grip pretty well no re003's but the 5.0's can't overwhelm them.
I have a MC brace and my fluid is still clear.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:13 AM   #41
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This came up because i have to replace the one caliper and have never been happy with the brake feel. So instead of just replacing the one caliper. Thank you to every one that has tried to help i did not ignore you and i will try a Either carbotech 1521 with my new caliper or portfield r4s street. Considering no one has stepped in and brought information on it I'm guessing this was an idea that never paned out past the 6piston setup.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:36 AM   #42
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this is NOT any issue with the number of pistons in the calipers

this is some other issue that you haven't addressed yet
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:40 AM   #43
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Sorry meant that it wasn't a project some else took on past the innovative setup.
I don't plan on doing this swap anymore. I may eventually buy the innovative setup which is a complete package.
Thanks uncle scotty for your input.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:18 AM   #44
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Old thread but i figured i would update it and explain. after more research and weighing the car. yeah 3600lbs figure i got off the forums was very incorrect. With the 6spd and everything on my car full tank of gas two car seats 4523lbs.
Fluid flush pad and rotor change didn't help. still can't overwhelm those "****y" as you claim hankook tires.
But i have a plan in place since next year i have to replace tires brakes will also be upgraded.
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:32 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightmaresmk View Post
Old thread but i figured i would update it and explain. after more research and weighing the car. yeah 3600lbs figure i got off the forums was very incorrect. With the 6spd and everything on my car full tank of gas two car seats 4523lbs.
Where did you weigh it? When you say "everything on my car", do mean 800 pounds of extra stuff? The curb weight of a 2005 Outback XT Limited is 3500#, 3565# with the automatic; the non-Limited was 85# lighter. A 6MT adds ~75# over a 5MT, add maybe another 50# for 2 baby seats and you're still coming up waaaaay short of 4523#.
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:07 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Where did you weigh it? When you say "everything on my car", do mean 800 pounds of extra stuff? The curb weight of a 2005 Outback XT Limited is 3500#, 3565# with the automatic; the non-Limited was 85# lighter. A 6MT adds ~75# over a 5MT, add maybe another 50# for 2 baby seats and you're still coming up waaaaay short of 4523#.

This ....
How did you add hundreds of pounds lol.
Time to visit a better scale and or you have the heaviest subaru record.


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Old 09-11-2015, 08:03 AM   #47
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Door tag is 4545lbs. 07 spec b door tag had 4325lbs. so unless Subrau is lying on the door tags they are heavier than most people believe. I added 75 on top for larger swaybars, FMIC and 6spd. Next time i go to the track i am going to throw it on their scale.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:35 PM   #48
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Ugh. Door tag is GVWR... Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. That is, how much the vehicle can weigh when fully loaded. Nothing to do with the weight of the vehicle. Well... I guess the weight of the car factors into that.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:55 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightmaresmk View Post
Door tag is 4545lbs. 07 spec b door tag had 4325lbs. so unless Subrau is lying on the door tags they are heavier than most people believe. I added 75 on top for larger swaybars, FMIC and 6spd. Next time i go to the track i am going to throw it on their scale.
That number from GVWR, is the car + The maximum amount of stuff you can carry. e.g. adults, cargo, etc. You're doing it wrong.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:17 PM   #50
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Sorry so much going on i had a brain fart. I completely forgot that. still brakes feel like ****. lol
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