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01-05-2017, 11:57 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:2015 WRX Base WRB |
FA20DIT Reliability Poll
Update - General pivot tables and graphs are DONE!
There are threads and post in this subforum that run wild with speculation as to how reliable the FA20DIT is. Some think its a particular set of mods, some think it is the type of fuel, some think it is the power level, and some of us don't have any issues at all. If you got a few minutes, please complete this survey. The goal is to gather data for everyone to digest. Survey The data gathered will be available for everyone. A pivot table is provided. To edit the pivot table you will need to save a copy of the spreadsheet to your google drive OR copy it to excel/openoffice/etc. Don't ask for permission to edit the file. Please note: Don't abuse the "other" section. The goal is to keep all the data points the same so the pivot table is accurate. I'll update the poll to keep it as inclusive as possible for all scenarios. Data
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Last edited by Boggie1688; 01-07-2017 at 04:27 PM. |
01-06-2017, 12:28 AM | #2 |
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I'm stock with 6000 miles. Should I even bother?
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01-06-2017, 12:30 AM | #3 |
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Do it.
All data is good data. Plus, there are tons of people who say you never hear from the individuals that don't have issues. Here is a chance to get a real temperature on what is REALLY happening, instead of speculating. Lets not forget some people are staying the stock tune blows, and you should get an AP. No staying that is correct, just saying there is a group of individuals who strongly stand behind this. Last edited by Boggie1688; 01-06-2017 at 12:36 AM. |
01-06-2017, 01:13 AM | #4 |
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An old mechanic who was proud of his well taken care of truck told me he never drives it over 65mph. He said speed kills a motor. Since the engine is connected to the tranny that's connected to the wheels. Wheels touch the road...more speed more vibration and heat..could AWD be more prone to transferring detrimental energy to the engine? Would all the stiff mounts and bushings make this worse? Or was the old timer just b.s'in me? And no, he wasn't trying to sell it to me lol
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01-06-2017, 02:21 AM | #5 | |
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01-06-2017, 03:20 AM | #6 |
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^^^Amazing.
But yes, using data from a very small, very skewed group of people will certainly be conclusive and end speculatuon. Theres a 1000 post thread about this already. Read through it. |
01-06-2017, 03:25 AM | #7 |
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But I think we all know driving habits, what was happening during the failure, dyno numbers, actual cause of failure, length of time with modifications, maintenance upkeep, oil viscosity/brand, climate/temperature when failure occurred, tuning experience, among 10000x things - has no bearing on engine life. So this survey seems sufficient.
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01-06-2017, 03:38 AM | #8 | |
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So you think 50k miles at 65mph on a bumpy road versus 50k miles at 65 mph on a smooth road would be the same wear and tear on a engine?
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01-06-2017, 03:54 AM | #9 |
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I wouldn't go 65 mph on a bumpy road to start with but as far as ENGINE wear I'm gonna call the difference negligible. If what you're trying to get at is if stiffer mounts/bushings will cause your engine to fail then the answer is no. I haven't been doing this as long as some other people have, so somebody correct if I'm wrong, but I have never heard of an actual engine failure, that would require a rebuild, occurring from specifically a failed or upgraded mount and don't expect to hear of one in my lifetime.
Last edited by SeMi380; 01-06-2017 at 04:27 AM. |
01-06-2017, 06:16 AM | #10 |
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Naw I'm just hypothesizing rough roads and/or stiffer bushings/mounts speed up the process...all engines fail eventuall, no?
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01-06-2017, 06:39 AM | #11 |
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Long term reliability can't be taken into account in 2 years.
This would lead more to quality breakdowns and bad batch parts/etc than it would real reliability. Adding WHP/WTQ would be a good thing to add though. Also model year would be good. Yes the cars are the same but the early ECU's were known to kill cars and cause long term damage. Last edited by ericdet; 01-06-2017 at 06:47 AM. |
01-06-2017, 08:27 AM | #12 |
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I agree you should add model year. also add if it is the 6mt or cvt
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01-06-2017, 08:51 AM | #13 |
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HP and TQ were intentionally left out. I don't want this to turn into an argument over VD, mustang, dynojet, etc.
Look at the mods and the fuel type and you can draw your own conclusion. As for transmission type, the argument is that the transmission has negligible affect on engine reliability. This poll is not about 6mt vs CVT. You don't see threads about people blowing their engine and blaming the transmission. Model year has been added. In less than 12 hours the poll has gathered some good data, but it is still a very small dataset. 60 something data points. Let's try to get some more! |
01-06-2017, 08:55 AM | #14 |
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Can I add model year after the fact?
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01-06-2017, 09:06 AM | #15 |
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If you've already take then survey and want add model year. Feel free to take it again and I'll remove your older data.
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01-06-2017, 09:39 AM | #16 | |
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anyway, cool to see so many people pitching in their data. |
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01-06-2017, 09:43 AM | #17 |
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Interested to see how big this gets.
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01-06-2017, 09:44 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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01-06-2017, 09:53 AM | #19 |
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When I get some free time this weekend, I'll add a sheet with predefined tables and graphs.
Failure by fuel type. Failure by tune. Failure by mods. Failure by mileage. And whatever else I can think of. Some basic tables for people who don't care to pivot the info themselves. |
01-06-2017, 09:54 AM | #20 |
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^ You da man!
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01-06-2017, 10:06 AM | #21 |
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This is a great thread. Thanks for taking the time to do this. The Subaru enthusiast community is great.
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01-06-2017, 10:35 AM | #22 |
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This is great idea! Might actually find a trend in failures.
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01-06-2017, 11:03 AM | #23 |
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You have the option for who the tuner is, including Cobb, but on the next question there's no option for OTS tune. It's either pro/dyno, e-tune or stock. Should we put e-tune if running a OTS tune?
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01-06-2017, 11:15 AM | #24 | |
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But I see what you are saying. There is enough people and enough data to show that the poll is starting to cause confusion. Cobb OTS - E Tune : Is this stage 2 or higher? Cobb OTS - Stock : Is this stage 1? The problem is if I add two cobb options, people will mis click or get confused. I've already had a few people add "deletes" under the mod section, when they should have just selected "catback". I'm thinking all Cobb OTS tunes should be considered e-tunes. If your Cobb tune is protuned, then just select Cobb OTS - Protune/Dyno. Let me mull this over a bit. |
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01-06-2017, 11:18 AM | #25 |
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THE FA20DIT IS JUST AS RELIABLE AS ANY OTHER SUBARU MOTOR.
I'D SAY ITS MORE RELIABLE THAN A EJ257 BUT LESS RELIABLE THAN A EJ207. IT'S THE PEOPLE WHO ARE DOING STUPID **** THAT BLOW THEM UP. STOP FEAR MONGERING. ffs, I did some of the same **** that a lot of people do on here with the exception that I knew what I was doing and never pushed for peak power. There becomes a point where you gain 5hp for a 200% increase in chance of failure. |
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