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Old 11-01-2019, 04:53 PM   #31326
nubsub
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
late reply, but i have never paid anyone to do car audio. it is super easy. crutchfield usually gets everything right. I have only actually purchased from them twice, last 2 purchases oddly enough, but have been using them for research for 20 years.....
i hear you, i've done several jobs for myself and others, but with my back bothering me these days, it's likely worth the money to have someone else do the job. thankfully, i've identified a local installer with very good prices for both the head unit and parts, so that somewhat defrays the cost of the labor.

i confirmed that the pieces the installer will use cost well more than $200 at Crutchfield, and the deck is $120 more there too...of course, there are other places to get the deck and parts from, but from what i can tell, my installer isn't gouging by any stretch.
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Old 11-01-2019, 04:55 PM   #31327
IHaveAHorse
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
i run h9s instead of h11 on 3 of my 4 vehicles and I change them all annually before they burn out.....I like to be able to see and they are relatively cheap
Yeah like I said it seems like anything except the really dim stock long life bulbs lasts a year max, so I think I'll go back to H9 next time. The philips xtravision lasted a year or so too, with less light output. Only thing I wonder now is what is the absolute brightest bulb you could fit in a 9005 plug, LED, HID, whatever. I drive at night a lot, and there is a ton of wildlife running across the roads. It's nice to have everything lit up as close to daylight as possible to avoid hitting animals. Even if an opossum or racoon won't damage my car if I hit it, I still feel bad for hitting them, and then there are deer who would seriously mess up the car if they hit it.
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:11 PM   #31328
Commander Keen
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Quote:
I drive at night a lot, and there is a ton of wildlife running across the roads. It's nice to have everything lit up as close to daylight as possible to avoid hitting animals.
You'll get rapidly diminishing returns with high performance low-beams. The pattern isn't right for proper deer lights and anything that is, will annoy other drivers. I installed these on an easy to reach switch:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QW2A60O/

It's a cooler white than most low beams, excellent for lighting up eyes at great distances and the right diameter for GP/GJ fog bezels. Tested well in the deer-infested hills and winding "roads" of Pennsyltucky.

Last edited by Commander Keen; 11-02-2019 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 11-02-2019, 01:22 AM   #31329
IHaveAHorse
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Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
You'll get rapidly diminishing returns with high performance low-beams. The pattern isn't right for proper deer lights and anything that is, will annoy other drivers. I installed these on an easy to reach switch:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QW2A60O/

It's a cooler white than most low beams, excellent for lighting up eyes at great distances and the right diameter for GP/GJ fog bezels. Tested well in the deer-infested hills and winding "roads" of Pennsyltucky.
So you just pop out the light insert and mount those in place, and wire a switch in the cabin to them?
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Old 11-02-2019, 01:42 AM   #31330
Commander Keen
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So you just pop out the light insert and mount those in place, and wire a switch in the cabin to them?
I attached them to the inserts with liquid nails adhesive and then tethered the lights to the body with nylon rope in case the inserts pop out for some reason.

You could use hot glue temporarily to figure out the proper alignment.

I used the factory wiring and the stock relay, though I don't remember if the relay was originally populated on my car. The switch activates the relay directly, bypassing the lighting control system.
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Old 11-02-2019, 02:15 PM   #31331
IHaveAHorse
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Where is there factory wiring? I've never seen wiring harnesses that end near the fog lights that I can recall when I've been working under the car.
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Old 11-02-2019, 08:59 PM   #31332
Commander Keen
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You can pop out the bezels and reach them. They may be taped out of the way.

See any instructions/writeups for installing fogs in our cars.
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:58 PM   #31333
nubsub
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Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
You can pop out the bezels and reach them. They may be taped out of the way.

See any instructions/writeups for installing fogs in our cars.
i'm guessing this is the case. when installed my Homelink mirror, i didn't realize the harness was taped and i could have "pulled hard" to release the tape and give myself more slack to work with...
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Old 11-05-2019, 05:08 PM   #31334
nubsub
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So, my 2012 Impreza is back in my hands, and after driving 200miles, it appears all is well. i inspected my engine well, and if they cut corners, they hid their tracks well. they did undersell the coolant to my preference level (it was just below low when the car was cold) so they corrected that for me. i also saw that unlike my other dealer, they actually changed the oil filter while they changed the oil which was a nice touch. they didn't wash my car (is that standard dealer procedure or only some dealers). i ended up washing it myself which was preferable anyway.

after having the 2019 loaner over 2.5 weeks, i stand by my assertions that it is a very significant upgrade over the 2012:

- the steering is more responsive with the 2012 needing more "wheel travel" for the same turn
- the steering is a bit "heavier" feeling on the 2012. not sure which i prefer but it was very noticeable returning to my car and it took a few days to get used to it.
- without a doubt, i like the CVT on the 2019 much better. this is probably the biggest upgrade. it's not that the 2019 is any faster, but the engine drones less under acceleration and feels much more responsive both at normal temp, and especially when the engine is "cold" (where my 2012 feels like the transmission is slipping when i try hit the throttle with any authority)
- i *loved* the 3 separate screens with customizable information settings. one could show a CarPlay map on the big screen, the HD radio info in the multi-function display, and then gas mileage info on the small screen between the tach and speedometer. very nice.

the only notable downgrade were the flimsy all weather mats in the 2019. sort of crazy how thin and flimsy they were in comparison to those in my 2012.

the one thing i do like about having my 8 year old car is that it already has a few scratches and scuffs so i worry less about it getting a ding/scratch.

i'm hoping that by the time i need a new car in 5+ years, they will have put in a slightly higher hp engine in the next generation Impreza. it's a well balanced car with nice amenities now. i don't expect it to be terribly fast, and in fact, my 2012 and 2019 serve their purposes at sea level with 2 adults and 1 kid in the car. but in my 8 years of ownership, i have found that my Impreza 2.0i is underpowered in the mountains with more than 2 people in the car.

for now, i'm going to stick with the 2012 and hope i can put another 80k on the dial (i'm at 81+k right now). because of my experience with CarPlay on the loaner, i'm pretty certain i'm going to update the head unit to a new car stereo. it appears that in addition to getting CarPlay capability, by utilizing a datalink Maestro unit for SWC and USB port integration, i'll also gain ODB2 info on the head unit as well. that'll be a nice bonus.

i also need to get around to replacing that rear hatch switch. anyone opened up their panel and have pointers on removing the hatch panel and not damaging anything in the process? it looks like the switch itself is pretty inexpensive so there's not reason to live with my current PVC tape solution to my disintegrated rubber.

(the switch appears to be the part # 63270FJ000) anyone replaced their switch? any "gotchas" to avoid/be aware of?

Last edited by nubsub; 11-06-2019 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:38 PM   #31335
DieselDorf
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Pearl White

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My switch is starting to get a little deformed/gooey but doesn’t have any tears or anything so I’m leaving it for now.

I will agree that the car feels fine when I’m riding by myself, but fully loaded it can feel like an old dog.
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Old 11-06-2019, 12:35 PM   #31336
nubsub
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Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
My switch is starting to get a little deformed/gooey but doesn’t have any tears or anything so I’m leaving it for now.

I will agree that the car feels fine when I’m riding by myself, but fully loaded it can feel like an old dog.
i looked up videos on the web and found nothing on the Impreza, but i did find this one on the Forester:


this does not look like a pleasant or simple job. one comment from a Crosstrek owner suggests the procedure is similar for the Impreza/CRosstrek. this is not something i have the time to pursue right now and do carefully with all of the demands i have at home. i may resort to one or two fixes:

1. piece of PVC tape across the back area (large enough so it stays on for a while at least.
2. i've contemplated using some clear silicon caulk since it's pliable and would serve the purpose of keeping water out of the switch.

any thoughts/concerns about my silicon caulk idea? it seems that the switch needs to be mildly protected from water from either road splash or car washing. rain is unlikely to get much water into that area. and in fact, a raw switch might do fine as long as one is carefully when car washing.
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:35 PM   #31337
DieselDorf
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Pearl White

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If you get a heavy duty waterproof tape, maybe that’s what the pvc tape is? That sounds sufficient.

I would be worried about silicone sticking to everything and becoming hard to get off or gumming it up more.
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Old 11-06-2019, 07:30 PM   #31338
nubsub
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Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
If you get a heavy duty waterproof tape, maybe that’s what the pvc tape is? That sounds sufficient.

I would be worried about silicone sticking to everything and becoming hard to get off or gumming it up more.
yeah, PVC/pipe tape is water proof and pretty heavy duty and strong. as far as silicon, yeah, i have that concern although it shouldn't harden up in time...but i don't know what would happen if i tried to remove it. i almost feel like i would cover the actual switch and decaying rubber with a piece of cardboard and then slather the caulk on over it. i think i'll got the tape route (and still use cardboard between the switch and the tape so that the tape doesn't rip apart the remaining rubber if i don't like the end effect.
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Old 11-06-2019, 09:11 PM   #31339
IHaveAHorse
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Reply box is broken for some reason, I can't quote anyone, but I have a specific comment to owning an 8 year old car and dents and scratches.


Yeah, at some point if you daily drive a car or even if you just have a weekend car you just have to give up and admit something will happen. Some unsupervised kid might run by your car with dirty hands and leave a nice hand sized swath of small scratches, Karen in her GL63 will throw her door into yours while talking on the phone, someone with no morals will back into you in a parking lot and drive off after convincing themselves it's your fault. Or a million other things. The only decent looking thing to do to protect the paint is vinyl wrap. I've seen some people spray bedliner over their whole car, it looks really cheap but potentially not as bad as a really messed up paint job after a decade of daily driving or whatever. Plastidip... I guess that stuff works but it's way less protective than vinyl unless you're going to spend as much as a new paint job doing 10 layers. Looks decent though.

I give up at some point, I'll still wash and wax but stop caring about parking next to someone who looks like they throw their door open at the speed of sound and next to grocery cart corrals and whatnot.
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Old 11-14-2019, 09:09 AM   #31340
Kharn
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Is anyone having issues with the recall-replacement brake light switch?

I had the switch and springs recalls done to my '12 Impreza Sport Premium CVT 2.0 (unmodified) at the same time in the spring, but now I'm getting some issues.

When I'm in motion with the CVT, the hill assist light illuminates at random and remains lit until I come to a stop.

When using the (Subaru) remote start on frosty days, the brake lights illuminate (ending remote start) and remain lit until I enter the vehicle and depress/ release the pedal one time. Hitting the button for remote start will give about 30-60 seconds before the brake lights illuminate.

Anybody in the same boat?
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Old 11-14-2019, 09:33 AM   #31341
dcon9999
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Ice Metallic Silver

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@Kharn - Wow - def not.

1. I didn't even know there was a hill assist light - I live in PA with crazy hills - never seen it in my life.

2. I've had no issues with brake light lighting up as you describe. I have had some issues with my aftermarket (evo-one) remote start lately. I never attributed it to the rear light, but timing would align. Interesting.
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Old 11-14-2019, 09:41 AM   #31342
Kharn
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The hill assist system is for people with manual transmissions, the system helps you from rolling back while getting moving. CVT owners should only see the light on vehicle start up as far as I can tell. It is on the lower right side of the instrument panel, car on a slope in yellow.
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Old 11-14-2019, 10:37 AM   #31343
dcon9999
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ah - gotcha. thanks.

but on remote start - I'll know more after I do some work to confirm correct and tight wiring this weekend.
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Old 11-14-2019, 01:39 PM   #31344
IHaveAHorse
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What did they extend the transmission warranty to on 12-14 CVT models? My car is suddenly stalling when I shift into drive after starting it, apparently I'm going to need that warranty.
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Old 11-14-2019, 01:59 PM   #31345
nubsub
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Originally Posted by IHaveAHorseC0ck View Post
What did they extend the transmission warranty to on 12-14 CVT models? My car is suddenly stalling when I shift into drive after starting it, apparently I'm going to need that warranty.
if i recall correctly, it was 10 years or 100,000mi, whatever comes first. but search the web to confirm.

hope yours falls within the warranty.
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Old 11-14-2019, 03:21 PM   #31346
nubsub
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Originally Posted by nubsub View Post
if i recall correctly, it was 10 years or 100,000mi, whatever comes first. but search the web to confirm.

hope yours falls within the warranty.
confirmed:

https://www.forbes.com/sites/jensen/.../#5783abcc79dc
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Old 11-14-2019, 05:20 PM   #31347
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Thanks, hopefully I won't need it. I put a can of seafoam in the gas tank, and used that throttle body intake spray they make, and it seems to have helped a lot. My air filter is really dirty too, so I bought a new one coming from rockauto next week. I'm hoping it was just some bad gasoline or something, combined with an overly restricted air intake. It actually would shut off without even shifting into drive when I went out and tried it again later, so it seems unlikely it would have been the torque converter.
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:51 PM   #31348
DieselDorf
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Sounds more like a fuel/air/spark issue than transmission.
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:38 PM   #31349
IHaveAHorse
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I just replaced the spark plugs like 10-20,000 miles ago. It might not help that my intake air filter was pretty dirty, but I have a new one coming tomorrow. I had also reset the ECU a couple days earlier because the ECU flipped a tit when I was using my engine block heater one night, the disabled VDC and flashing temperature icons would not go away, so the only thing I could do was clear codes. I'm not sure why that works when there's no code to read, but it did. It might have been a combination of slightly restricted airflow, the ECU re-learning, and maybe some kind of deposits somewhere in the short block that the seafoam helped with? I'll assume it was a one-off thing since it's been perfectly fine since.

While I'm here, for those of you who left your serpentine belt on until it was showing signs of wear (slipping, cracking, or whatever), how long did they last? And how much work is the change? I'm at almost 90,000 miles now, my belt looks fine but if people are only getting 100k out of them I'd rather replace it now than have it go bad on me in a bad place like camping in the middle of nowhere.

Last edited by IHaveAHorse; 11-17-2019 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 11-17-2019, 09:07 PM   #31350
Commander Keen
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Quote:
I'm not sure why that works when there's no code to read, but it did.
My guess is the ECU expects various temperature sensors to give similar readings when the engine has been off for a while.

Quote:
And how much work is the change?
It's easy. Route the belt and compress the tensioner.
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