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Old 11-17-2016, 05:09 PM   #1
EdgeAutosport.com
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Default HOW TO: Lowering Springs Install – Subaru WRX 2008-2014

HOW TO: Install Lowering Springs – Subaru WRX 2008-2014

If you would like a downloadable copy to either print out, save, or email, please click here to download!

Although this is for the 2008-2014 WRX, this guide will take you through the same process as almost any Subaru out there with the universal nature of the chassis. If you have any questions or concerns, don't hesitate to contact us.

For this install, we used the Eibach Lowering Springs which are one of the many springs available from us at EdgeAutosport.com.

Enjoy!

FRONT SPRING

1. Start by loosening the lug nuts while the car is set on the ground. Once they are broken loose, raise the car and then fully remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

2. Remove the bolts that secure the brake line and the ABS sensor to the shock. You can store the bolts back into the shock or set them aside.



3. With a sharpie or similar marking pen, mark the shock and the head of the camber bolt BEFORE you remove it so that you can create a reference of where to put the camber bolt back in. The camber bolt is the UPPER bolt on the front shock mounts.



4. Loosen the nuts and remove both the shock mount bolts. To reiterate, loosen at the NUT, not at the bolt head.





5. Now that the shock is completely dismounted at the steering knuckle, move to the top of the car. While holding the shock in place with one hand below, reach over the top with your other hand and loosen the nuts holding the shock to the shock tower part of the chassis. Using an impact wrench is MUCH easier as the nuts will come off quickly and easily so you don’t have the hold the shock in place longer than necessary.



6. Remove the shock completely.



7. Using spring compressors, tighten the spring down to remove tension on the upper mount.



8. Using an impact wrench, remove the nut on the top of the shock. If the impact wrench is turning both the nut and rod together, you may need to use a pass-through style ratcheting wrench that allows you to put an Allen tool in the shock rod to prevent it from twisting with the nut. If you don’t have this, the chances are that you won’t be able to get that nut off because of the limited access for a regular wrench.



9. Now, remove the upper mount and take the spring off the shock.



10. Remove the spring compressors from the spring. Make sure to do this evenly and not release one spring compressor fully at one time. The spring is very dangerous when tension releases too quickly. Stay safe here.

11. Take the spring compressors and apply them to the new springs. Make sure the coil is compressed evenly and it stays straight as it’s compressed. Insert the spring on the shock body so that the end of the coil sits in the bottom spring perch exactly like the factory spring. This is clear to see when looking at the shock.

12. Put on the upper spring perch so that it sits at the lowest, flattest spot. This is important. Rotate the perch so that it sits naturally and easily in the spring when the spring is centered around the shock. Keep rotating it until it sits in a spot that it feels natural in. Again, it should be almost flat on top of the spring. If this isn’t mounted properly, the coil will bind up and make noises while driving. This needs to be mounted properly.



13. Now, put the washer back on that originally came off the assembly, then put the entire upper mount assembly back on. Fasten it down with the nut on the top.

14. Once the nut is fully secure and tightened all the way down, you can now back the spring compressors off. At this point, the shock is ready to put back on the car.

CONTINUED ON NEXT POST....
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Old 11-17-2016, 05:13 PM   #2
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15. Insert the shock back into the upper side first. There is a rubber dot lined up with one of the studs. That one goes in the front most hole. Once all 3 studs are through, hand thread the nuts back on with one hand while holding the shock in place with your other hand. Do not tighten the nuts yet. You can leave that for last.



16. Now, put the lower shock mount back on the car with the original 2 bolts that mount it to the steering knuckle. Put the camber bolt back in the same exact place it was in before. You’ll eventually want to get an alignment with any height changes but this puts you back to your original baseline alignment that you started with.



17. Torque down the shock mount bolts tightly, anywhere from 60-70 ft lbs of torque should be good for these.

18. Fasten the ABS sensor bracket and brake line bracket back on the shock.

19. Lower the car so that all weight is resting on the suspension. Tighten the nuts on the upper shock mount from inside the engine bay.



REAR SPRING

1. With the car on the ground, open the trunk and remove the lower trunk liner.



2. Remove the 2 nuts that are accessible from inside the trunk.



3. Raise the car again and take off the wheel, remove all 3 nuts and bolts from the lower control arm. This includes the sway bar end link, the shock mount, and the rear spindle/hub. This will allow enough movement to dismount the shock from the car.



4. Once you can pull down the lower control arm out of the way with one hand, grab the shock with the other hand and remove from the car.



5. Use steps 7-14 from the front shock to reassemble the shock with the new spring.

6. When assembling the spring on the rear shock, make sure the upper mount is in line length wise with the lower mount bolt hole.

7. Pull the rear control arm down again and place the bottom of the shock into the control arm. Allow the control arm to move up and set the upper 2 studs in place in the chassis where you’ll tighten them down from inside the trunk.

8. Before you lower the car, insert all 3 nuts and bolts into the lower control arm again. This may be easier if you have a pry bar to move the spindle and control arm around to line up the bolt holes.



9. Once all the lower fasteners are in place and torqued down, put the wheel back on snug and lower the car.

10. From the inside of the trunk fasten the nuts back on the upper mount studs and tighten down. Put the trunk liner back in the trunk.
As always, make sure your wheels are fully torqued down to at least 75 ft lbs or so. It’s wise to get an alignment at this point, now that the car has been lowered.
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Old 11-17-2016, 05:23 PM   #3
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