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03-31-2021, 06:56 PM | #176 | |
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Member#: 190502
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Quote:
There's no turning back now, K series is locked in.
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04-08-2021, 09:09 AM | #177 |
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Member#: 33782
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Vehicle:96 3MI Racing search FIRST, then PM!!! |
Right on! So it was a K-series. Any more specs on it? Did a quick search and saw pics of the engine in car, but no specs.
Sorry if they're posted and I scrolled right over them. |
04-08-2021, 03:07 PM | #178 |
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Join Date: Apr 2021
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So sick, cant wait to see future updates and see this thing rolling down the road
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04-09-2021, 01:27 AM | #179 | |
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It's a K24A3 from a Honda Accord Euro here in Australia. Comparable to the K24A2 from a TSX over there, it has vtec on both intake and exhaust sides. Back when I bought it the kwap thing hadn't really taken off yet so I only paid $450 AUD for it with 89k kms on the clock. I plan to run a GTX3576R 0.82 and it should make 400HP on low boost without opening the motor. Initially this is how I will run for the development of the suspension settings and aero package and then later on I can open the motor and make more power. It should be pretty reliable with the dry sump. |
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04-09-2021, 11:38 PM | #180 | |
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Member#: 48377
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
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Location: "They eat fish soaked in lye"
Vehicle:1996 Gutted, built XP class Impreza L |
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That's going to be awesome. Can't wait for some video of it on track. |
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04-11-2021, 07:11 AM | #181 |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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Work continues on getting the engine mounted into the car.
Start off by getting some paint onto the new crossmember. Then onto engine mount fabrication. I'm using heavy duty leaf spring bushes which fit perfectly into some 42mm pipe. I had to make up some cradles to hold the bushes on the crossmember. The next step took a long time with the minimal equipment I have available in my garage. I had to get the engine into the precise position it needs to be in before I could start welding on the engine mounts. I rolled it into position on my dolly but then had to use the engine crane to lift it up and slide the dolly out. Getting it to lower back down resting on some specific thickness timber blocks was the hard part, it needed to be millimeter perfect and the crane does not lift it very level at all so I had to wrestle it into position. I have a laser pointer clamped to the output shaft of the gearbox so I can see how it is aligned to the rear differential. This is a pretty critical alignment to get right. Many hours later I had it in the correct position with the crossmember bolted up underneath. I put my engine mounts where they needed to be to line up with the plates on the motor and marked their position. I then removed the crossmember so I could do all the welding on my bench. Next was the welding and adding a few gussets. With that all done I touched up the paint on the crossmember and put it back on the car. That's about where I ran out of time once again. There is probably another days work to join the shackle mounts up to the plates on the engine using some tube. After that its just the gearbox mount that needs to be done. |
04-18-2021, 04:09 AM | #182 |
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The engine mounts are finished!
Here is the process. Started by notching some tube to join the engine plates to the shackle mounts. I tacked the position on the car and then removed them to weld the main part of the tube that joins the plate on the bench. Back on the car and some more tack welds to get the final position. The whole time I am checking the alignment of the motor with the diff using a laser pointer. After that I had to press the poly bushings back out so I could finish all the welding and then gave them a coat of paint. After they were dry I pressed the bushings back in and installed them on the car. It's 51mm behind the original firewall as per the WTAC pro-am rules. The crossmember fits around the dry sump pan perfectly This last photo shows how nothing sits below the frame rails, the lowest point is actually the trans adapter plate and I shaved about 10mm off that to get everything as low as possible. I have actually made a pretty good start on the transmission mount but I'll save that for another update. |
04-25-2021, 02:55 AM | #183 |
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I worked on the transmission mounts yesterday but ran out of time before finishing them. I got a fair bit done so here is the progress so far.
I didn't want anything below the frame rails as my flat bottom will be bolted up hard against it. So the mount is to stay up inside the tunnel. This is easy with a track car because I can access the bolts from inside the car. I start by reinforcing the ultra thin sheet metal that the tunnel is made from with some additional 1.6mm sheet to tie into that existing reinforcing bracket. My mig welding still sucks but it will hold, penetration looks good on the other side, its just not pretty. I use a 3mm plate over the top of the reinforced tunnel. I have a matching 3mm plate inside the tunnel. I've welded the nuts to the plate, makes it simple to install plus one of them will be inside the tube so I won't be able to get a spanner on it later. Then its just a length of 1.75" roll cage tube to span the gap, very light and very stiff. I welded the majority of it lying on my back under the car, it came out nice. So this is as far as I got. All I need to do now is extend some plate out to those poly mounts and add some gussets and its done. |
04-26-2021, 02:27 AM | #184 |
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Reply number 1
This is my first reply
QUOTE=JDwhiteWRX;45816617]Hi Guys, I was posting some photos of this project a while back in the "home made aero" thread but then photobucket died and I lost interest in posting photos on forums. Anyway things have moved on, here are a bunch of photos to bring you up to speed. Just so you know this is a low budget project I am building on my own in my garage, progress is slow at times as I have 2 children under 5 to keep me busy amongst other things. You can also follow me on Instagram: @brzdiy I built a jig of the rear suspension It locates in the OEM bolt holes but I lifted it up a little to lower the chassis whilst keeping the correct geometry. Mocked up a design after doing some reading on triangulation etc. A friend of mine does FEA for a living and offered to validate my design, so I had to measure all the distances for him with a plum bob. I started building the roll cage Then I started to build my rear suspension design [/quote] |
04-28-2021, 02:58 AM | #185 |
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Member#: 48377
Join Date: Nov 2003
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Location: "They eat fish soaked in lye"
Vehicle:1996 Gutted, built XP class Impreza L |
Looks awesome. Keep up the good work. I can't wait to see this thing out on track.
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04-28-2021, 07:59 AM | #186 |
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Location: Milton Keynes, UK
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I know it had been mentioned before, but anymore thought on going the DCT route? The HTG and DKG guys have made massive headway with lots of end users of their controllers. Several standalone ECU companies are moving forward with integrated controls for them too.
What blows my mind is how cheap they are and how much torque they'll hold out of the box. Now they aren't good for running endless hot laps as of yet. Thermal management seems to be needed and not something many have tried to address yet. But for TA, it's essentially a poor man's sequential that is street class legal here, and from the junkyard. |
04-28-2021, 08:32 PM | #187 | |
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At one point I was sure the DCT was the best option but when I looked at the pros and cons the 5 speed was a clear winner for my car and how I will use it. The only advantage of the DCT is the ease and speed of shifting, everything else about it is a negative. They are extremely heavy, more than double the weight of the 5 speed. You also need to run a trans oil cooler adding to the weight. They have a very low sitting pan underneath which means you need to lift the engine to gain enough ground clearance, the K24 is very tall already and my car has very little ground clearance. They cost a lot more money, not only to buy the trans but then you need to buy the computer to control it. When I first started looking to buy one there was a couple around for reasonable prices but after that I never saw another one less than 3x the cost of the 5 speed. They might be readily available in the USA but not here. Also the complexity of setting it all up, getting the clutch pressures, throttle blips and things like that correct can take a long time and end up adding a lot to the cost especially in a car like mine that can't be driven on public roads. For a street driven car though the DCT would be a solid option. I'd like to build something running one some day. |
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04-29-2021, 08:54 AM | #188 |
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Ah, the ground clearance of the bellypan might be a legit thing for you. I forgot how low your sinking that K20. Good call.
But yeah, basically $1k in controller (some standalone ECUs can control them), the trans are usually $1-1.5k here, and then you still have the adapter plates (but I guess you needed those anyway). The added weight is a real thing for sure. I know Alex "Super K" said he has 6 hot laps on his setup before temps creep too much. He hasn't done any additional cooling for the trans. Then again you have fast shifts, no turbo recovery time on shifts, etc... So the pros would have to outweigh the cons for sure. One of our TA bodies over hear just allowed DCT as a street mod class on the premise of it just being a junkyard swapped part. |
04-29-2021, 07:49 PM | #189 |
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The DCT trans average around $3.5k here and that's if you can find one. BMW is not a very popular car in Australia. Even the BMW ZF 5 speed cost me $1.3k
You can see in this photo the work I did to get the engine as low as possible. The adapter plate is the lowest point so that was cut down and even a small amount of metal was shaved off the gearbox to get it lower. |
05-02-2021, 08:34 AM | #190 |
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Ah, conveniently placed bars there
Do like! |
05-03-2021, 08:27 AM | #191 |
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The transmission mount is now finished so the engine and trans are 100% in the chassis.
Here is what it took to finish it off. Start by cutting out some 5mm thick flat bar and drilling a hole for the trans mounts. Get them in position resting against the tube, make sure everything is lined up with the laser pointer. Put a few tack welds on them to hold the position then remove the crossmember for welding. Make some gussets from 3mm steel using CAD Drill a couple of holes to add lightness Weld it all together Some paint and reinstall back on the car. The total weight was only 1.5kg and a video to celebrate this milestone |
05-10-2021, 08:29 PM | #192 |
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My KPower Industries RWD intake manifold arrived yesterday, it's a really nice looking piece and the price was much better than other options on the market.
I also added a little custom touch with some wrinkle red paint to match the valve cover. |
05-10-2021, 11:06 PM | #193 |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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Location: "They eat fish soaked in lye"
Vehicle:1996 Gutted, built XP class Impreza L |
Looks awesome- but heavy. How much does it weigh?
I've always been for weight minimization ala Colin Chapman. |
05-11-2021, 12:48 AM | #194 | |
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I did consider and get quotes for the PracWorks carbon manifold but they charge a fair bit extra for the RWD version, like 2.5x times the price of the KPower I went with. I've just got so many other expensive items I need to purchase for this project right now, I couldn't justify it. |
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05-11-2021, 12:55 AM | #195 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 48377
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: "They eat fish soaked in lye"
Vehicle:1996 Gutted, built XP class Impreza L |
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05-11-2021, 01:59 AM | #196 |
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Big gains have been reported over the skunk2 manifolds so it looks like it's more than bling. All other options are cast other than fabricating my own.
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05-12-2021, 04:34 AM | #197 |
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My dry sump kit arrived today from AT Power ordered via my local distributor which is Manon Racing Products in New Zealand.
It's their Honda belt driven dry sump kit minus the machined billet aluminium oil pan since I fabricated my own from the OEM pan to save some money. I have been waiting on this kit so I can get the steering rack mounted. The steering rack will sit as close as possible to the crank pulley in front of the engine but the belt drive pulley for the dry sump oil pump also sits on the front of the crank pulley so I couldn't mount the steering rack until I knew how far out it protrudes. |
05-17-2021, 09:52 PM | #198 |
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I installed solid steering rack bushings from Diftech yesterday. I don't want any rubber bushings in this car.
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05-18-2021, 12:43 AM | #199 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 48377
Join Date: Nov 2003
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Location: "They eat fish soaked in lye"
Vehicle:1996 Gutted, built XP class Impreza L |
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05-20-2021, 11:48 AM | #200 |
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Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Vehicle:96 3MI Racing search FIRST, then PM!!! |
It would be sweet to do segmented mains and a 5-stage pump. Back to reality and a real world budget though.
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