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Old 04-13-2010, 10:25 PM   #26
Fierysun
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Just curious, did you remove the front axles or are they still in the trans and hubs?
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:00 AM   #27
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Have you taken a punch and driven out the guide pins between the block and trans? Sometimes electrolysis between the steel pins and aluminum trans/block locks it up.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:08 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
Just curious, did you remove the front axles or are they still in the trans and hubs?
same question
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:14 AM   #29
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Front axles are out.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:20 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theotherguy View Post
Have you taken a punch and driven out the guide pins between the block and trans? Sometimes electrolysis between the steel pins and aluminum trans/block locks it up.
I haven't!

Are you talking about the two pins that are between the upper and lower bolts? If so, aren't they mounted to the block? It doesn't look like there is anywhere to drive them to.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:02 PM   #31
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I'm in the same boat here. Got every bolt from the trans to block and it's ready to disconnect. It just won't disconnect. I'm waiting to hear about the guide pins. In the meantime, I will look at the pins on my built block that's sitting waiting to take place of the motor that won't come out.

Last edited by lester; 04-14-2010 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:29 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeynut258 View Post
I haven't!

Are you talking about the two pins that are between the upper and lower bolts? If so, aren't they mounted to the block? It doesn't look like there is anywhere to drive them to.

Hit them from the transmission side towards the engine. They will exit the hole on the engine side. You'll know from the first whack if thats whats holding you up.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:31 PM   #33
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Victory!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Listen up! Anyone else who comes across this problem. Use HEAT!!!

Buy one of these:

Put heat around the studs and pins with the torch, obviously watch where you are applying it. You want to heat the immediate area surrounding pins/studs. Then take the pry bar underneath using the the crossmember as a fulcrum, BAM! 4 days of penetration oil couldn't do it but a bit of heat from the torch worked like a charm! Separated with little effort.

I attempted to tap the pins out prior and there isn't enough room to get enough of a swing, that or they were just too frozen.

Thanks for the help guys!

Last edited by hockeynut258; 04-14-2010 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 05-27-2018, 04:40 PM   #34
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Picture is gone, did you use a heat gun or a propane torch?

Is it safe to use a torch on the aluminum case? (With some foil shielding to no burn something else)
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:26 PM   #35
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Heat and aluminum is fine as long as it is not heated as you’d heat iron. Bit of heat with a torch will help. If you’ve never done it just use caution.
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:28 AM   #36
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FWIW, when I did mine, it was so tight I had to split the engine and transmission starting with a razor blade along the top seam, and work my way up to a putty knife, then chisel, then prybar. There was a bit of a struggle getting it back together as well. Those pins can make life difficult.
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:53 PM   #37
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When I run into this issue, I have 2 routes.

No heat (propane torch used for plumbing sweat fitting), I use a rust buster like PB blaster, Kroil, etc. Spray along the trans/engine parting line as well as the 2 dowel pins at about 3 & 9.
Flexible spackle knife about 1-1.5" wide with the blade all the way through the handle. Tap into the parting line going from one dowel to the other to open a gap.
Once a gap is opened, use a 1-1.5" wide putty knife (1/16" thick?) with the blade through the handle. Tap that into the parting line until the gap is bigger.
Then a heavier screwdriver, then a pry bar.

Blade thhrough the handle is good since the tapping on it drives the blade. Blade not all the way through the handle usually splits the handle and the tool is garbage.

Heat available, heat up the trans and engine flanges near the dowel pins (about 3 & 9), then follow above.
Heat should go to about 120*F.
What is 120*F without a temp meter?, about where you can touch it for a few seconds before you have to yank your hand away.
Reminder, heat goes up, so heat below the dowel pin mostly.

Before reassembly, at least ScotchBrite the pin, then a thin smear of NeverSeize or wheel bearing grease to make it easier next time.

Also, check BOTH mating surfaces. You may have moved aluminum into the surface that needs to be filed flat so alignment is correct. This is REALLY an issue when peeps drive a big screwdriver into the gap early and pry. That surface aligns the trans input shaft to the pilot bearing as well as gaps for the ToB.

Just saying.
Goes for any brand, not just Subaru.
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Old 05-30-2018, 01:06 PM   #38
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I'm with C-III in that heat and prying would be a no-no here. Relying on the weight of the transmission and penetrating oil is your best bet.

Other things that help:

Not having the transmission jack too high (or too low).
Removing the pitch stop bracket from the transmission.
Having two people pulling rearward from both sides of the tranny simultaneously.
Making sure the clutch fork is disconnected per FSM.

All these done correctly, you should never have a stuck transmission - you're dealing with a few teeny tiny pins; corroded or not, the transmission weights enough this should be a non-issue.

If something is absolutely stuck, the last thing you could try would be a low temp. torch with wax. Stuff some candle wax into the dowel pin recess and hit it with a torch (again, use a low temp. fuel flame) - the heat should cause wicking and pull the wax around the pin which will work about 10x better than the best penetrating oil you can buy.
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Old 06-05-2018, 03:20 AM   #39
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I had the same problem with mine, we tiled the engine, held it place, shook it, used pry bar. Finally a mechanic friend got a hammer and hammered the top of the transmission and it started a small gap between the engine and tranny.

On a side note I'm trying to put everything back together and can't figure out one bolt, its a 14 mm with a washer and lock washer, and the tip does not have threads shorter than the bell housing bolts, do you by chance remember where that one went? not sure if its up top or down below. Thanks for any info
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:07 PM   #40
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Post a picture, but initial thoughts are it being a ground wire bolt given the lock washer.
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:41 PM   #41
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trying to fix
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:50 PM   #42
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I did put a ground back on, but I thought it goes on the long starter bolt, but maybe with the 07's it has its own location for the bolt
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:46 PM   #43
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Nah, too big to be a ground bolt - looks like possibly the hanger bolt that connects the cat/downpipe to the transmission bracket.
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:23 AM   #44
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msg_f91

That looks just like the lower downpipe bolt under the drivers seat it makes a squeal when it doesnt fit correctly back in place.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:29 PM   #45
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thanks for the reply on the bolt, I got that now, still stuck on getting the shafts in the transmission. So I'm turning one, then it falls into place, now it does not turn easy? does that mean the splines and diff are lined up? I'm about a little over an inch from being all the way in the transmission, maybe more. The shafts were never pulled from the brake hub, so I can't get it out far enough to lube up the splines, could I pour gear oil into the transmission till it leaks out the sides, would that lube up the ring enough to pop them in? I'm afraid to beat on it with a mallet, I don't want to push in the bearings. Thanks for any tips
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:00 AM   #46
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Please use more technically accurate terms to the FSM or show some images - the post you made is really too nebulous to comment accurately. Are you talking about disassembly of the main case or just the drive shafts? If it's the latter, the C-ring at the end of the drive shaft can take some effort to pop it into place. I usually lay underneath the drive shaft and use the knuckle assembly as a slide hammer with the transverse link held out of the way.
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Old 06-11-2018, 10:10 PM   #47
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I'm trying to re install the axles back in to the front sides of the transmission after a clutch install. I have both sides in as far they will go to the point where they engage the differential. I can turn one side and the other side turns the opposite way. But they won't go in any further. I watched the Briansmobil 1 video on youtube and it made them look easy to pop in, mine won't budge any further even if I spin them around and try to pop in
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Old 06-12-2018, 01:27 AM   #48
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Push harder - those C-clips keep the axles from leaving the transmission under normal driving so they're pretty damn strong!
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:34 AM   #49
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Cool, thanks for the help everyone. My dad came over and watched what I was trying to do by pushing on the axle from under the car, then my dad walked over took the bolts out of the strut, then gave the disc a push, and the axle went all the way in lol, so then he did the same on the other side. Got it filled up with gear oil, and the car started on the first try.

Now I got a new problem but I think I have an idea of what is causing it, the car over heats when at idle and not driving around. When I checked under the hood the top radiator hose is caved in. Could the coolant conditioner/ head gasket repair stuff clogged up the radiator from sitting the last 2 years?? I forgot I put that stuff in and I should of drained the coolant. Or what I'm afraid of is it clogged up the engine. Does that stuff come out after running it eventually? or is it clogged good since its causing the hose to cave in. Thanks again for any input, and sorry for hijacking the original posters thread.
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:29 PM   #50
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Top off the coolant and bleed the system using a Lisle funnel on the top tank. Don't take the lower (round) radiator cap off. Might even do a full flush after 2 years... can't hurt.

This might not solve the issue - I'm just trying to get you to a baseline now.
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