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07-24-2014, 08:42 PM | #151 |
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Funny...I saw this last night and talked with a machinist friend about it. I was down at Outfront today checking their closed deck out. I bet this would work just fine.
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01-05-2015, 09:49 PM | #152 | |
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Location: seattle, WA
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Quote:
I was thinking that leaving 3/8" or so of full open deck at the HG surface for better coolant dispersion and using the HG as a guide for making passages. You'd still be controlling movement of the bore way better. And what about torquing down a head before the epoxy is cured? |
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01-06-2015, 06:07 AM | #153 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Vehicle:2008 STi IAG built HTA86 E85 Kel272s Cos IM |
You'll be happy to hear that ever since you've been living under a rock/cryogenically frozen the past 9 years, Outfront has perfected the EJ25 closed deck.
Sincerely, Official peddler of outfront closed deck blocks because they just make sense |
01-06-2015, 10:02 AM | #154 | |
Former Vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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Location: Buena Park, CA
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Quote:
1/2" is where all the issue is, leaving your block filler 3/8" down is useless. Even the factory semi closed deck web is only .25" thick and is attached to the top of the bore. The factory sleeve cracking will happen from the top down. Outfront |
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01-08-2015, 01:54 AM | #155 | |
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Quote:
Outfront, good call on cylinder pressure. |
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01-08-2015, 02:14 PM | #156 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Vehicle:2008 STi IAG built HTA86 E85 Kel272s Cos IM |
and you want to try something new because money is burning a hole in your wallet? The amount of money you waste by going with something unproven, you are better off doing it right the first time
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01-20-2015, 01:46 PM | #157 |
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Its their money quit ****ting in the thread. If your only input is to buy an outfront block you have already said in 300 threads you can give it a rest.
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01-20-2015, 03:24 PM | #158 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Vehicle:2008 STi IAG built HTA86 E85 Kel272s Cos IM |
well I wasn't ****ing sure the posters in this thread knew how to use the search function to dig up my 300 other threads that I recommended the closed deck in
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01-20-2015, 06:04 PM | #159 |
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^dat awesome reply doe
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01-27-2015, 09:44 AM | #160 |
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Not the op here, but one of the attemptees its been over 2 years now and yes, i did scrap the block do to main clearance issues, it seems it was over line bored.
And about cylinder pressures, this idea was not to combat that. It was to hold the cylinder in place side to side to aid with the blown headgaskets problems that open deck blocks have at higher compression. (n/a or boost) I do mean to get back to this in the future, iv since joined to navy and have been to busy/ not in my garage back home/ less tools Sent from my SCH-I535 using NASIOC mobile app |
01-27-2015, 11:06 PM | #161 |
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Vehicle:93 SS - 06 OB XT 03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT |
Hope you're well Swagon! I had some good times when you used to post on legacygt.com. I thought it was awesome that you were able to get your wagon running on a megasquirt. And I was bummed when you hit that deer.
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02-25-2015, 01:14 PM | #162 |
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Location: Winnipeg
Vehicle:2006 STI OBP |
Too funny I was searching this for my build and stumbled on this thread!
I will be trying Harbloc on my build. if it doesn't work out ill machine my own block inserts. I don't post much but I do make ALOT of parts everything from MBC's to up-pipes down pipes etc. I do all my own tuning and a lot of tuning for others in my area. As a composite specialist I am fully confident that the epoxy is the way to go. Airplanes and helicopters are held together with the stuff and @ 25,000 ft up they are subject to extreme temperature fluctuation and stresses. Ill be filling the top .750" of the block. Then do the bore and honing via Trq plate. then a align hone on the mains. ill also be doweling the main caps to keep the bearings happy. other than that basic build strong I-beams and pistons keep it simple. Ill try to post up as much as I can remember to do so! tests will be done @ 38psi via BW s300sx w/1.0 AR im hoping to get 700whp -Justin |
02-25-2015, 01:19 PM | #163 |
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Vehicle:2006 STi, 03WRX wago 10Tribeca,00 RS,99 Foz |
Justin, I would strongly suggest you do the epoxy poor with torque plates installed. Theae blocks move quite a bit, and if you do it while the block is at rest, I feel you will have issues with filler distortion.
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02-26-2015, 07:22 AM | #164 | |
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Location: Winnipeg
Vehicle:2006 STI OBP |
Quote:
Got my pistons(99.75 CP) and crank (NEW OEM 08) last night Just need to order age625's studs, and oem case bolts. And I can start this build. I been reading over on the Honda forums lots of guys do this with great success. If it works I'm going to machine a torque plate w/ plastic dowels so that when used and poured there's little to no drilling for the stud/bolt installation once cured. Prior to the installation carefully preparation will take place. A thorough cleaning followed by a 3.0 quarts media blasting of the bonding surfaces. This is a known industry practice for adhesion promotion. -Justin |
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03-08-2015, 02:13 PM | #165 |
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02-27-2021, 12:50 AM | #166 |
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Well... Sorry for the impatience but. How'd it go?
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02-27-2021, 01:10 AM | #167 |
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10-23-2021, 12:19 PM | #168 |
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Location: Manitoba
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If anyone is still interested, I have a 3D scan of an ej20
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10-23-2021, 12:22 PM | #169 |
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Manitoba
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