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Old 12-02-2020, 02:21 PM   #26
JSR84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
I'd imagine the two-bolt kit would be much easier since it takes the up-pipe orientation out of the equation. Wish I could have gone that route. Good luck!
Here's hoping! I do have one question, I modified the PS line bracket to move the PS lines further away from the turbo, but I was just wondering if anyone had a photo of how the engine harness connector sits.
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Old 12-02-2020, 03:16 PM   #27
BeastianSTI
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Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
Here's hoping! I do have one question, I modified the PS line bracket to move the PS lines further away from the turbo, but I was just wondering if anyone had a photo of how the engine harness connector sits.
Which year car do you have? Didn't see it in your info
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Old 12-02-2020, 03:19 PM   #28
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Which year car do you have? Didn't see it in your info
Sorry, 2009
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Old 12-03-2020, 09:22 AM   #29
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Sorry, 2009
Ah ok, yeah unfortunately I can't help ya there
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Old 12-03-2020, 11:45 AM   #30
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Ah ok, yeah unfortunately I can't help ya there
No worries, I just went to assemble all my intercooler piping and I'm missing a section on the cold side.

Last edited by JSR84; 12-03-2020 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 12-03-2020, 12:06 PM   #31
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For anyone else coming to this thread, I called ETS again and they were kind enough to offer some information on the order to install things.

1) Install everything from front to back, loosely.
2) Leave the uppipe to transmission bracket LOOSE. This is to be tightened LAST.
3) Install the turbo, clock it, etc.
4) Install the downpipe sections #1 and #2. Tighten the v-band that joins both pieces enough that you could still rotate section #2 but NOT disalign the two flanges.
5) Make sure the catback aligns still
6) Start tightening the clamps from front to back:
- Uppipe to headers (might need to have someone push the turbo a bit to get the flanges to align properly)
- Double check that cat back aligns still.
- Tighten up pipe -> turbo
- Tighten turbo -> DP section #1
- Tighten DP section #1 -> #2
- Tighten catback to DP #2

Going to give this a shot and see what happens. They also mentioned that everything has to be perfectly assembled, and that the invidia exhausts can cause some alignment issues.
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Old 12-12-2020, 10:20 AM   #32
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Now that I'm back from a business trip and need to quarantine for 10 days I can get you more of the following measurements for reference.

I forget if you have a Garrett or precision turbo, but if it's a GTX30R, I have exactly 2-3/4"s from this flange on the turbo to the center of the Brake line when using the spacers that came with the IAG AOS.
Or 4-5/8"s to the strut tower face.

Yes, this assumes the turbo is situated correctly on the up-pipe, but should give a reference if the UP is situated correctly

https://i.imgur.com/1M1HTUo.jpg
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Old 01-27-2021, 09:37 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
For anyone else coming to this thread, I called ETS again and they were kind enough to offer some information on the order to install things.

1) Install everything from front to back, loosely.
2) Leave the uppipe to transmission bracket LOOSE. This is to be tightened LAST.
3) Install the turbo, clock it, etc.
4) Install the downpipe sections #1 and #2. Tighten the v-band that joins both pieces enough that you could still rotate section #2 but NOT disalign the two flanges.
5) Make sure the catback aligns still
6) Start tightening the clamps from front to back:
- Uppipe to headers (might need to have someone push the turbo a bit to get the flanges to align properly)
- Double check that cat back aligns still.
- Tighten up pipe -> turbo
- Tighten turbo -> DP section #1
- Tighten DP section #1 -> #2
- Tighten catback to DP #2

Going to give this a shot and see what happens. They also mentioned that everything has to be perfectly assembled, and that the invidia exhausts can cause some alignment issues.

Glad I ran across this thread, I am considering the ETS kit and was ready to push the buy button on the flange kit with 6466 turbo. Wondering how this assembly sequence worked on your two bolt kit?


Thanks,


Jeff
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Old 02-10-2021, 03:43 PM   #34
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Do you have any pics of the install?
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Old 02-17-2021, 05:06 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by stiaddict07 View Post
Do you have any pics of the install?
I don't, actually.

Also - if I could do everything over again, I would definitely get a 2 or 3 bolt uppipe, so you can make some assumptions on the orientation of the uppipe.

I ended up messing with the kit for weeks. Weekend after weekend. No matter what, something would end up leaking lol.

I ended up buying a header collector gasket and trimmed it to fit the V-band up pipe to headers. Now THAT fixed the issue.
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Old 03-01-2021, 05:06 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
I don't, actually.

Also - if I could do everything over again, I would definitely get a 2 or 3 bolt uppipe, so you can make some assumptions on the orientation of the uppipe.

I ended up messing with the kit for weeks. Weekend after weekend. No matter what, something would end up leaking lol.

I ended up buying a header collector gasket and trimmed it to fit the V-band up pipe to headers. Now THAT fixed the issue.
Sounds like an utter nightmare. I had an rock steady kit and originally I requested the ewg to be recirc'd into the downpipe. Initially I couldn't get the recirc to line up and I discovered Donnie uses AGP housings in his jig. So I buy an AGP housing for my 35r, to find that the v-band outlet flange doesn't even remotely match the downpipe v band flange. I send the AGP housing off to Turbo Lab not once, but two times to get it machined to the dimensions of the downpipe v band. And at long last, the ewg recirc still doesn't even come close to fitting the downpipe.

In short, I sent the downpipe back to donnie, he patched the recirc off, and sent it back with a VTA dump for the ewg.

2 bolt up pipe, T3 inlet, for reference.
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Old 07-16-2023, 12:06 PM   #37
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Default Iag aos lines

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I’m looking for any kind of help here. I’m install an ets rotated kit on my 2006 Sti. The aos is stuffed behind the turbo and I really can’t see any possible way to route the lines for the crank case breather without contacting the uppipe or downpipe. I also found out the hard way that the ams manifold doesn’t fit so I went with a new production cosworth manifold and jdm tgv deletes now the strange thing is the iag fuel rails are too close for comfort to the avcs solenoid brackets. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 07-21-2023, 01:48 PM   #38
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Sorry to dig up an old thread but I’m looking for any kind of help here. I’m install an ets rotated kit on my 2006 Sti. The aos is stuffed behind the turbo and I really can’t see any possible way to route the lines for the crank case breather without contacting the uppipe or downpipe. I also found out the hard way that the ams manifold doesn’t fit so I went with a new production cosworth manifold and jdm tgv deletes now the strange thing is the iag fuel rails are too close for comfort to the avcs solenoid brackets. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sounds like you have a lot more variables than just an ETS rotated kit.
Which AOS? IAG?

ETS GTX30R kit on my '05, with a strut-mounted IAG AOS. Pretty much every crankcase hose, AOS hose, and pass side fuel line hose is wrapped in heat wrap tubing, due to all their close proximity to the up/down-pipes.

Just curious, what does the AMS IM interfere with? Turbo? IC piping?
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