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11-01-2020, 08:26 AM | #2476 |
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I agree with stevieturbo.
Going by the area of the fitting's ID, two -6 feed lines would have 15.5% more area than a -8. -6 would make for a little cleaner looking system and more hose flexibility. I make 470 on gas and still run my stock fuel feed line and an internal 450. Under the hood it's all SS braid covered -6. The only thing I've done is eliminate the internal restriction created by the crimped rounding of both ends of the fuel feed line. In the manufacturing process they round by squeezing down the end, so the fitting slips on easily. This takes away a considerable amount of the tube's available internal cross-sectional area. Look for restrictions in your custom systems. Not all supposed AN fittings are made the same and to the official AN specifications on the ID's. Any bend slows down the fuel. There are online calculators for figuring pressure loss if you want to know.
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11-01-2020, 09:16 AM | #2477 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: TOPOHTO
Vehicle:1999 WRB GM6 2.34 LR destroker |
that's a relief, saves me a trouble and money as current setup under the hood is PTFE 6AN in/out, mating to stock fuel lines
as for bends, understand and agree, but I find it not as critical as for example with the oiling system I do have 180* fittings feeding the rails, but that's the cleanest way to route them in my specific application |
11-01-2020, 09:37 AM | #2478 | |
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Quote:
Although the reason I searched was someone had told me before, a single large diameter will flow more than two smaller of the same area. Although the numbers on this calculator seem vastly different https://www.copely.com/tools/flow-rate-calculator/ Either way, a friend has run 8's with a single -6 to each set of rails from a -8 line and Y piece ( feeding a pair on injectors on each cylinder, the old Forsa setup ) And even for the hose sizes, the actual fittings often get smaller again to fit inside the pipe, and cheaper makes can be pretty bad in this respect. But even a single -6 line up the car will easily support 7, 800hp on normal fuel. |
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11-01-2020, 09:38 AM | #2479 | |
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Quote:
When you consider the oil galleries in any engine block...it's a wonder any oil gets anywhere ! lol They're all square 90's, no chamfering etc. |
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11-02-2020, 08:34 AM | #2480 | |
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Join Date: May 2004
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Location: @brgperformance
Vehicle:2004 #LesboRacer #TunedbyBarge |
Quote:
I'm trying to remember if I actually checked voltage output. I feel like I did but now I can't remember 100%. I also ran mine with a voltage booster so I was feeding it 18V. It flowed more with the booster for sure. I've now switched over to a fuel lab brushless pump/controller with a surge tank setup. |
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11-02-2020, 08:38 AM | #2481 | |
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Quote:
I guess all the internal components are rated well above that (someone tore one apart). So it probably comes down to heat at some point. I'm using a corvette/mercedes fan controller on my car. Rated for pretty big current and well... it's designed for fans. Fairly easy to find and I can help with pins and junk if you go that route. |
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11-02-2020, 08:43 AM | #2482 | |
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Quote:
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11-03-2020, 09:01 AM | #2483 | |
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Quote:
I'm not sure what spal fans you're using but I think you've got a pretty good shot. With the PWM ramp-up you minimize the inrush and I think they're good for 50-70A. The power pins for it are massive (and like $6 a pin). You can run it without the PWM function as well and it's will run 100%. If I recall correctly that's the difference between the MB and the vette controller. The MB has a backup 12v high switched signal |
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02-18-2021, 10:07 AM | #2484 |
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refactoring few things around my fuel system routing, must the check valve be installed right after the pump, or it can be placed after filter / before rails?
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02-18-2021, 12:34 PM | #2485 |
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Depends what purpose you wish the check valve to have.
Or you could run none at all. The closer it is to the pump, any perceived lag time in building pressure from the pump turning on would be less. |
03-02-2021, 04:37 AM | #2486 |
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Those of you who converted to bigger feed lines, how did you route it? I need to lay AN8/6
in the GC, I am limited by the tight fit, so I am seeing these two options: Option A, use these two locations for the bulkhead fittings to go through firewall there are no other spots for the bulkheads to go through, HVAC box, clutch MC in the way Option B, run through stock location, bend towards the firewall, run to the dogbone and create L-shaped bracket where I would install the 90* bulkhead connectors (this way if it sprays, it does so towards the front of the engine, and not the turbo) |
03-02-2021, 01:13 PM | #2487 |
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[quote=Hyper;46525655]Those of you who converted to bigger feed lines, how did you route it? I need to lay AN8/6 in the GC, I am limited by the tight fit... /QUOTE]
Will they be hose or metal tubing? I don't know if there is any consensus about whether it is safer to run fuel lines inside a race car or outside. Car manufacturers have done both. Why not run metal outside the cockpit? |
03-02-2021, 02:19 PM | #2488 | |
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Quote:
Run your lines after you put the engine and all its accessories in. |
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03-02-2021, 05:06 PM | #2489 | |
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I want to mimic OEM and lay them inside trunk area I am still undecided whether to follow stock route or not, first need to solve the front I need to mock/cut/weld everything before I paint the car, I consider all the stuff that is in the engine bay, and put it in for mock ups |
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03-02-2021, 06:30 PM | #2490 | |
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03-03-2021, 01:04 PM | #2491 |
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I personally prefer outside of the cab just for the added safety in a race car.
If going hardline internally, are you still planning to run them along the door sill, then jog across the firewall, behind the pedal box, and then come out there near the dog bone mount? |
03-03-2021, 02:04 PM | #2492 |
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Outside is fine as long as there is no risk of impact from anything outside.
If inside, either hardline or teflon. Although OEM are down the sill, routing towards the middle of the car takes them further away from anything that might eve get impacted in a severe crash. Just drill a couple of new holes and do bulkhead fittings to take them to the engine compartment |
03-03-2021, 03:18 PM | #2493 |
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Vehicle:1999 WRB GM6 2.34 LR destroker |
all my fuel lines are either hardlines or teflon
because this is a street car (mostly) it will have full interior, carpet, etc, so I am thinking of running them like OEM along the door sill running them along the tunnel creates two challenges - extra heat from the transmission (like there isn't too much heat in the fuel already ) and two hard 90* bends from the tunnel across the underseat section |
03-03-2021, 03:23 PM | #2494 |
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Trying to route even -6 hoses along the sill will be difficult for anything other than hardline. Up the side of the tunnel is much easier, or along the floor.
Well...difficult if they're trying to remain discrete, with interior bits etc covering them If that's not an issue, anywhere goes really. |
03-03-2021, 04:01 PM | #2495 | |
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Quote:
Heat on the inside of the car from the trans in a non factor on something like this. |
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03-04-2021, 02:57 AM | #2496 | |
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Quote:
another challenge I didn't think of, is how to stop the bulkheads from rotating when you are working on them from the other side might not be such a good idea afterall |
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03-04-2021, 12:40 PM | #2497 | |
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Quote:
Or weld a couple of fittings to a plate to form the bulkhead fittings as a pair, flow/return |
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03-04-2021, 01:09 PM | #2498 | |
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Quote:
I just ran it near the passengers rear corner out of the trunk (best clearance) then over to the middle of the rear seat and down the center towards the passenger side at the bottom edge of the tunnel all the way to the front. For the bulkheads just put a little tape on a long wrench and let it bottom out on something with a small piece of wood in-between. then tighten it from in the bay. I work on boats and rarely can reach both sides of the bulkheads. You want the wood so you can "knock it out" rather than spin the fitting to release the wrench. |
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03-15-2021, 02:35 PM | #2499 |
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I decided to stick with bulkheads
this gives me 3 possible routing inside the cabin, given I can go either left or right from the bulkhead, not down (HVAC in the way) they all go to the same location where my surge tank with pump is opinions? Last edited by Hyper; 03-15-2021 at 02:41 PM. |
03-15-2021, 02:56 PM | #2500 |
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In an uncaged car, I would want to keep any lines as far away from any external impact areas as possible. If caged, they could be kept within the cage area.
Obviously inside the cabin use either hardline or teflon only. |
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