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06-27-2019, 11:29 AM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 501207
Join Date: May 2019
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: KY
Vehicle:2012 WRX 5 DOOR WRB |
2012 WRX no crank, no click, no start
So I've searched the forums and other resources, not finding much that lines up with my issue. TokyoTexan had a post that was close but that was a ground issue that I've already checked off.
2012 WRX, just dropped the engine back in after rebuild and no joy. When key is turned to on position, IP lights up, gauges sweep, radio, AC, lights all work. Once I push in the clutch and turn to start, everything immediately cuts off. Starter does NOT crank, and no click from solenoid. This is keeping me from being able to read any codes with scanner or the AP. Weird thing is, when I jump the starter and bypass ignition, the starter will crank, so seems like ignition relay or fusible link (not sure where that is). Checked all fuses in the top section of driver side engine bay box, all are getting continuity. Side note, car started without electrical issues prior to engine pull---pulled and rebuilt due to suspected rod bearing failure. Did everything in the garage, so everything has been in a controlled environment (no possible issue from dealer or mechanic). So my question to all of you that are smarter than I am: Where is the fusible link on a '12 WRX? Does this sound like right track to go down? Any other ideas as to why above symptoms would occur? Thanks for any input.
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06-28-2019, 01:32 AM | #2 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 3409
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Oly
Vehicle:98 My FMIC Is bigger than yours. |
No possible issue from a legit mechanic, because you screwed it up all on your own?
Ok then. Two things come to mind - something important didn't get plugged in - engine harness, something, or your immobilizer doesn't like your key anymore. Try a different key. |
07-08-2019, 09:17 AM | #3 |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
The fact everything dies when you put a big load on it, sorta sounds like a loose or poor connection.
I would check battery connections and big grounds from engine to chassis and battery. Fusible link is just a "fuse" built into a wire, either good or open. Try another key, see if any difference. There is a whole thread about setting them back up in a section near the top of the main page on this forum. |
07-08-2019, 09:48 AM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 476573
Join Date: Oct 2017
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Lovettsville, Virginia
Vehicle:2008 Impreza WRX STi Silver |
Make sure the female spade terminal connector is attached to the starter solenoid. Check all your grounds.
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07-11-2019, 08:20 AM | #5 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 53443
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Vehicle:2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone |
As far as I know, there are no fusible links used in your model car, just normal fuses. From what you stated about the trouble and assuming that the power to the ignition switch is good and the grounding is okay it would mean there is a bad connection to power either at the ignition switch START position, or in the same wiring position after the switch.
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07-16-2019, 09:49 PM | #6 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 462136
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: NY Tristate Area
Vehicle:02 Bugeye |
Symptoms sound like voltage drop /weak battery. Get yourself a volt meter, you should have 12v at the starter/solenoid even when you turn the key to start pos., if it's lower might just need a new battery. Did you try starting it with a charger that has a high amp start mode?
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08-27-2022, 06:25 PM | #7 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 512997
Join Date: Mar 2020
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[quote=Johnny_Ringo;46061498]Hey, did you end up getting this resolved? I am having the same issue after an engine swap.
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08-27-2022, 06:58 PM | #8 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 53443
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Vehicle:2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone |
Check the voltage going to the ignition switch while trying to start the engine by placing the common voltmeter lead directly on the negative battery lead. If you have good voltage doing that then place the common lead on a ground point using the car chassis. If the voltage goes low doing that then you have a bad chassis ground connection somewhere. Many folks have missed reconnecting a major ground connection when replacing the engine.
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