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Old 09-04-2008, 11:03 AM   #26
z
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^ yep...17" would definitely be too small for you.
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:05 AM   #27
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I'm 6'2" and I ride a 21.5 but I chose a slightly over-sized MTB because I do a lot of urban riding as well and the larger frame is better in town.
A 19 is probably is a better size for me.

You are going to have so much fun. I got a bike to cut back on my gas bill and ended up loving it, I've lost 15 pounds I ride a few miles every day and actually feel crappy when I miss a day.

Have fun. Get a decent bike you won't regret it. Also you are lucky because you have great trails and people to show them to you.

A ton of MTB riders won't tell new people where the trails are. Hell I had to pay a guy $5 for a book of photocopied hand drawn maps. It seems like you have a good start.

Have fun!
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:31 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HolyCrikey View Post
Hey all. I've been contemplating a new outdoor sport/activity. I used to do BMX during my teen years (I'm 23 now), but I gave it up once college arrived. I've now got more time on my hands than I had thought, and I'm getting sick of just working out. I need some outdoor activity and biking has always been fun for me. I'm just not sold on road biking.

However, I'm a total noob to mountain biking. I live in a large city (Charlotte), so besides the greenways and road biking lanes, I have no idea where to start with mountain biking. We do have the National Whitewater Center which has trails, but it's about 20 miles away and I wonder if I'd be able to make it out there regularly. Probably the best bet though... A trip to the mountains is still an hour or more, so that'd be at least a day trip.

Regardless, where does one start with mountain biking? Necessary gear for a beginner? Intro level bikes to look at? Advice for a noob?

Thanks for any info guys.
http://www.mtbr.com/

Has trail listings for just about anywhere and has a review section for bikes and a beginner forum.

Good luck.
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:50 AM   #29
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This bike was brought up in another thread, it pretty nicely spec'd for a department store bike for less than $400.

Forge Sawback

Only problem with purchasing online is that you will have to partially assemble and moderately tune in the components on the bike or pay a shop to.
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:56 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zavigm View Post
^ yep...17" would definitely be too small for you.
I'm 6'0" and rode a 17" until I got my 29 singlespeed. I like the nimbleness the smaller frame offered as well as the lower center of gravity. So, I wouldn't necessarily rule out a 17". In mountain biking its all about preference, completely different from road biking where sizing is very important.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:00 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDT166 View Post
I'm 6'0" and rode a 17" until I got my 29 singlespeed. I like the nimbleness the smaller frame offered as well as the lower center of gravity. So, I wouldn't necessarily rule out a 17". In mountain biking its all about preference, completely different from road biking where sizing is very important.
absolutely! As I stated, I'm almost 6' and ride a 17" as well. Definitely more nimble—perfect for me—not necessarily for someone else our size
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:34 PM   #32
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I'm 5'11' and ride a 16.5" full suspension Kona, and a 17" Norco Sasquatch hardtail.
Both are "too small" for my size, but I absolutely love them.

Like another poster mentioned, it's all about feel. Take a couple of sizes out for a test ride and see which one you like.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:20 PM   #33
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I'm betting that someone that's out of shape isn't going to do to well on a MTB. Just ride the bike on the road for a few weeks? Any tips for getting ready for the trails?
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:31 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bankie View Post
I'm betting that someone that's out of shape isn't going to do to well on a MTB. Just ride the bike on the road for a few weeks? Any tips for getting ready for the trails?
Suck it up and quit being a vag?
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:33 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dolphin Overton View Post
Suck it up and quit being a vag?
Word. I huff and puff up every hill these days, but that's part of the punishment for allowing myself to become a lethargic piece of ****.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dongiligano View Post
if you aren't looking to do any competitions you'll just need front suspension. how much are you looking to spend?
i am a big fan of Giant bikes. hold up to a lot of abuse.
for entry level basic Boulder or Boulder SE
Next step up is the Yukon.
The Yukon has disc brakes which are better and some better components. but if you want to spend more i can give more suggestions. These two are on the low end but above walmart specials

here's my thrown together boulder se. my lil bro works at a loal shop, so most of it was fr$$!!


it;s pretty responsive, not too harsh framewise. altogether it's about 28 pounds, pretty decent for a cheap hardtail anyway....


/hijack
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:35 PM   #37
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i bought the giant yukon fx. just replace the suspension with some fox shocks and your good to go.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:59 PM   #38
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I ride a Fisher HKEK and it's a fantastic bike. I can't speak highly enough about the Genesis geometry. I rdoe a Fisher Advance, but it was too beginner and I was killing the bike from riding too hard. Bought a GT Avalanche off eBay and rode that. Too heavy, terrible geometry fr climbing. Went back to fisher and got the Hoo Koo E Koo off eBay. It's been bulletproof, light, good components, great geometry.

Buy your bike off eBay or craigslist or from someone you know. Paying retail is for suckers; I got the HKEK for $800, listed for $1100.
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:19 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dolphin Overton View Post
Suck it up and quit being a vag?
QFT.

No better way to get into shape than some good, hard work.
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:27 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skateboy16 View Post
here's my thrown together boulder se. my lil bro works at a loal shop, so most of it was fr$$!!


it;s pretty responsive, not too harsh framewise. altogether it's about 28 pounds, pretty decent for a cheap hardtail anyway....


/hijack

Nice ride. Love the mullet setup on those brakes...(Disc up front, v-brake in rear). I'm thinking of doing that to my Trek 4900 (all v-brake).
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:46 PM   #41
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i've ridden canondale since i started. just got the rize 4 a few months back. it's a great bike.
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:53 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bochet View Post
I ride a Fisher HKEK and it's a fantastic bike. I can't speak highly enough about the Genesis geometry. I rdoe a Fisher Advance, but it was too beginner and I was killing the bike from riding too hard. Bought a GT Avalanche off eBay and rode that. Too heavy, terrible geometry fr climbing. Went back to fisher and got the Hoo Koo E Koo off eBay. It's been bulletproof, light, good components, great geometry.

Buy your bike off eBay or craigslist or from someone you know. Paying retail is for suckers; I got the HKEK for $800, listed for $1100.
Thats what I was rocking before my HiFi, it is a great bike. Got one for sale
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:00 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by wango55 View Post
Nice ride. Love the mullet setup on those brakes...(Disc up front, v-brake in rear). I'm thinking of doing that to my Trek 4900 (all v-brake).
ha, thanks.... so is that what they're callin that these days? i'd do rear disc too, but the frame is a year too old. i don't ride that much anyway, even though i intended to this year. just avid mechanicals, they have a pretty good feel i guess......
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:20 PM   #44
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I'm going to Hijack this thread since people have some knowledge... I recently bought 2 bikes off Ebay, one doesn't have any suspension and one has front and rear shocks. There wasn't any instructions for setting up the rear shock. I don't want to blow it up or anything. Looking at the markings, it's a Manitou swinger 3-way. Looking at their website I can't find one that is similar. All the newer ones have some sort of 2nd, side adjusting canister attached. Where this is just a single shock unit.

It has 3 air inputs, red, black and blue... I bought a little high pressure pump thingee but don't know what to do with it. Is there a proper way to set these things up?



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Old 09-04-2008, 06:36 PM   #45
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Download a manual here.

The 3-way has no secondary chamber, but, the pictures in the manuals are all either 4-ways, or 6-ways.
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:38 PM   #46
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http://www.manitoumtb.com/manuals/05shockman_eng.pdf

Those are awesome bikes BTW. Sweet. I'll take em if you can't handle em
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:39 PM   #47
steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wango55 View Post
Nice ride. Love the mullet setup on those brakes...(Disc up front, v-brake in rear). I'm thinking of doing that to my Trek 4900 (all v-brake).
That's a nice mod. I did it on my wife's Specialized.
Go with a good 6" front, and if you can spring it, a nice Hayes hydraulic setup. You should be able to find a Hayes hydro front for less than $100, complete. Don't bother with cable, they don't perform or last like a good hydro.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uberu View Post
There wasn't any instructions for setting up the rear shock. I don't want to blow it up or anything.


Are you sure the red and blue are air inputs, and not adjustment knobs?
As for the black, basically you're using a cushion of air as your spring. The more pressure you put in, the more "spring rate" you have.

For example, I max out at about 200psi on my Fox rear shock, but have it set around 125psi. This is based on a number of factors, like my weight, riding style, and terrain I'm preparing to hit.

The high pressure pumps push out such a low volume of air that you shouldn't have any issues with blowing it out. I'd start with around 60psi, and go for a ride. Go up from there depending on how it feels.

Oh yeah...
this is going to take you a few rides to dial in, so bring the pump out with you.

I took three rides to set mine, for a total of 6 hours on d/h, dirt jumps, urban, and the bowl. Once you find that setting, you don't have to worry about it again.
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:53 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypa View Post
That's a nice mod. I did it on my wife's Specialized.
Go with a good 6" front, and if you can spring it, a nice Hayes hydraulic setup. You should be able to find a Hayes hydro front for less than $100, complete. Don't bother with cable, they don't perform or last like a good hydro.




Are you sure the red and blue are air inputs, and not adjustment knobs?
As for the black, basically you're using a cushion of air as your spring. The more pressure you put in, the more "spring rate" you have.

For example, I max out at about 200psi on my Fox rear shock, but have it set around 125psi. This is based on a number of factors, like my weight, riding style, and terrain I'm preparing to hit.

The high pressure pumps push out such a low volume of air that you shouldn't have any issues with blowing it out. I'd start with around 60psi, and go for a ride. Go up from there depending on how it feels.

Oh yeah...
this is going to take you a few rides to dial in, so bring the pump out with you.

I took three rides to set mine, for a total of 6 hours on d/h, dirt jumps, urban, and the bowl. Once you find that setting, you don't have to worry about it again.
The schrader valves are all different chambers, one is for main spring, one for platform (SPV) and one is for sag. Much different than Fox with propedal.
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:55 PM   #49
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So that unit has no spring, and no fluid, it's all air?!?

Wow.
How does it handle the big stuff?

I remember a problem with blowing out airshocks on the shore a few years ago, leading to some major design changes. I guess using air, that may not be setup properly could lead to failure.
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:01 PM   #50
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They are oil dampened.

The black cap is the main air spring, the red one is the SPV chamber, the blue one is not a Schraeder, it's the rebound damping adjustment.
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