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Old 09-14-2018, 09:24 PM   #1
cianuro
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Default How To: WRX 08-14 Pedal Assembly Removal and Installation

I was having issues while shifting described in this thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2880079.

I found the issue to be a worn out pedal assembly. Here are the pics:



Since I couldn't find any good How To, I'll try to explain it as best I can with the few pics I took so that anyone else who needs to do this in the future may have a good guide to go on.

Parts needed:
-Pedal assembly from 08-14 manual trans model
-Brake pedal sensor: Depending on the model year, the plug that connects to this sensor varies, but the mounting location uses the same plastic nut to sit in place, so if you didn't get the correct year sensor, you'll have to swap your current one to the new pedal assembly.

Tools:
-Ratchet
-10mm socket
-12mm socket or wrench
-Torx 40 bit
-Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers

Steps:
Engine Bay

-Disconnect the negative battery terminal and press on the brake pedal to dissipate any stored charge
-Remove the tmic (if equipped). There are several threads about this if you search, so I won't go into detail.
-Remove the 2 nuts holding the clutch master cylinder. There's 1 on each side:



Inside

Making space for the pedal assembly to fit during removal and reinstallation

I decided to remove the driver's seat to allow for more space for me to fit. You don't have to remove the seat as pushing it all the way back might give you the space you need, but I wanted to be as comfortable as possible. Remember there are airbag plugs in the seat, so be careful when removing it.

-Remove the side cover of the dash to expose the 2 screws that hold the trim below the steering wheel (hijacked pic... same panel, but on driver's side... thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1399151)

-Remove the trim below the steering wheel
-Remove the metal bracket exposed when the trim was removed. This is held in place by 2 10mm screws
-There's a module attached to the steering column, held by 2 10mm screws. Remove the screws, disconnect the plugs and move the wiring out of the way

-There's a relay array clipped to the fuse block, shown in the pic below at the top-left. Press on the clips and push the array towards the engine bay to move it out of the way

-Lower the steering wheel as much as possible using the lever for this.
-Find the 2 bolts holding the steering column in place and loosen them, but don't remove them completely. Just enough that you'll have a bit more room to pass the pedal assembly over. Here's a pic of one of the bolts and how much I loosened it:


Continued on next post...
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Last edited by cianuro; 09-15-2018 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 09-14-2018, 09:29 PM   #2
cianuro
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Pedal Assembly

-Remove the accelerator pedal, which is held by 2 12mm nuts
-Unplug all sensors connected to the assembly

-Remove the clevis pins attached to the brake booster and clutch master cylinder. Inspect them for wear. This is how my clutch clevis pin came out:

-Remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the brake booster. The bolts on these nuts stick out a bit, so a short socket might not work. I used a 1/2" drive 12mm socket with a 1/2"x3/8" adapter so that it would hold the nut completely. For the top-right nut, I went over the steering column with the ratchet and socket which gave the best access
-Loosen the 2 Torx 40 screws at the top side of the assembly, left of the steering column, but don't remove them completely

-Loosen the 12mm bolt over the accelerator pedal area, right to the steering column, but don't remove it completely

-The pedal assembly slides over these last 3 bolts I mentioned, so you should now be able to slide it out. Start pulling on the assembly so that the bolts that held the clutch master slide out of the firewall.
-Now that the pedal assembly is loose, and with all the wiring moved out of way in the previous steps, you should be able to wiggle the assembly around and over the steering column. Watch as your pulling it out to avoid damaging the boot coming out of the brake booster. You'll need to wiggle this also as you're pulling the assembly out.

Brake pedal sensor

Here's a pic of the 2 sensors. Left is from my 2008, and right is from the pedal assembly I bought which came out of a 2014 WRX:

As you can see they're different. To remove them, just twist the whole sensor counterclockwise about 1/4 turn and it should come out. Either sensor installs the same way on either assembly, so there's no need to swap anything else.

Installation

Following the steps backwards should do just fine. For me it was easier sliding it in place than it was taking it out. Same as when taking it out, watch out for the brake booster.

Once the assembly is in place, tighten all the bolts and reinstall the clevis pins on the brake booster and clutch master cylinder. Adjust the clutch master nut so that it reaches the linkage with the clutch pedal in it's resting position. If you don't do it like this, clutch engagement height will change and can wear the components as it did on mine.

Last edited by cianuro; 09-15-2018 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:45 PM   #3
JSR84
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Well done OP. I just used this guide this afternoon to replace my peddle assembly and its as good as they come.
The crack on my original peddle assembly was very bad, everything right of the crack was out of alignment quite a bit, I didn't realize how much is was affecting the operation. It feels like a new car.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:43 AM   #4
Charlie-III
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Some wheel bearing grease on the pins would be good as well to reduce wear.
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Old 03-14-2019, 05:04 PM   #5
JSR84
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While the peddle is feeling great and is much quieter, a creaking noise has returned. I has to be something unrelated to the peddle assembly. I've drilled and riveted the spot welds in the fire wall, installed a clutch master cyl. brace but I just cant get this thing to shut up.
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:01 AM   #6
cianuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
While the peddle is feeling great and is much quieter, a creaking noise has returned. I has to be something unrelated to the peddle assembly. I've drilled and riveted the spot welds in the fire wall, installed a clutch master cyl. brace but I just cant get this thing to shut up.


After a few weeks I also started to hear a slight creaking noise. I also did the the spot welds (before pedal assembly replacement) and the master brace. The noise comes from the clutch fork which has a wire spring. When I replaced the clutch, I installed a new fork with it and greased it all over, but it still creaks. I’ve seen a few videos with 15+ WRX’s with the same noise, so I believe this is common and unavoidable.

Glad the How To worked out. Did it because I couldn’t find one when I was doing mine.
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Old 07-29-2019, 01:13 AM   #7
Buddi
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First off.. thank you for your contribution to the forums with this DIY... did this today and i have to say.. a million times better... I had all the problems you mentioned with the clutch pedal.. and it drove me insane.. low to the floor engagement.. couldn't shift right from 1st to 2nd at wot.. grinding gears.. and after the new pedal assembly install.. man.. feels like a new car all over again.. even took away the creaking sound i had (for now) ... thank you for this DIY.. and i recommend to anyone with similar problems with their clucth... swap the assembly and 9/10.. you fix the issue..
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:30 AM   #8
cianuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddi View Post
First off.. thank you for your contribution to the forums with this DIY... did this today and i have to say.. a million times better... I had all the problems you mentioned with the clutch pedal.. and it drove me insane.. low to the floor engagement.. couldn't shift right from 1st to 2nd at wot.. grinding gears.. and after the new pedal assembly install.. man.. feels like a new car all over again.. even took away the creaking sound i had (for now) ... thank you for this DIY.. and i recommend to anyone with similar problems with their clucth... swap the assembly and 9/10.. you fix the issue..


After fixing this, I also did the master cylinder brace. Still, you need to check the spot welds on the bracket that holds the pedal assembly. I fixed mine before replacing the pedals.
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Old 09-14-2019, 01:53 PM   #9
mru77
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Default 08-14 wrx clutch assy

Anybody know the one part number for clutch/ brace assembly?

And does 15-18 wrs assembly interchangeable?
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Old 10-08-2019, 11:55 AM   #10
LilSkeese
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cianuro View Post
After a few weeks I also started to hear a slight creaking noise. I also did the the spot welds (before pedal assembly replacement) and the master brace. The noise comes from the clutch fork which has a wire spring. When I replaced the clutch, I installed a new fork with it and greased it all over, but it still creaks. I’ve seen a few videos with 15+ WRX’s with the same noise, so I believe this is common and unavoidable.

Glad the How To worked out. Did it because I couldn’t find one when I was doing mine.
Awesome write-up, currently waiting on all the parts to do this. Have you replaced the slave since you’ve done everything? I have a nasty creak as well and I theorize it’s coming from there.
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Old 10-09-2019, 04:52 AM   #11
cianuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSkeese View Post
Awesome write-up, currently waiting on all the parts to do this. Have you replaced the slave since you’ve done everything? I have a nasty creak as well and I theorize it’s coming from there.


When I replaced my clutch, I used a new fork but left the slave. Try greasing the contact point between the fork and the slave before replacing it. All the creaking I had went away when I replaced the pedal and added the master cylinder brace. Before replacing the slave, be sure the creaking is not coming from the firewall.
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Old 10-28-2019, 02:26 PM   #12
wagonmeister
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Can anyone confirm if the NA pedal assembly is the same (apart from the rubber pads on the pedals)??
My 09 wrx cracked in the same place. I found a used pedal assembly from an N/A 09 Impreza, and from diagrams I've found, they seem identical other than the rubber pedal covers.

Anyone able to confirm if I can use this pedal assembly in my 09 WRX?

Wrx 36004FG031
n/a 36004FG011

Thanks!
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Old 11-01-2019, 03:32 PM   #13
cianuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonmeister View Post
Can anyone confirm if the NA pedal assembly is the same (apart from the rubber pads on the pedals)??
My 09 wrx cracked in the same place. I found a used pedal assembly from an N/A 09 Impreza, and from diagrams I've found, they seem identical other than the rubber pedal covers.

Anyone able to confirm if I can use this pedal assembly in my 09 WRX?

Wrx 36004FG031
n/a 36004FG011

Thanks!
Looking at diagrams, it appears they're both the same. The difference in part numbers could probably be in model years, different sensors attached or the pedal covers. Either way, the diagrams I found are only identified by the first 5 digits (36004), so the FG part could refer to year based on VIN number or chassis model as some have VDC and others don't.

Still, I'd recommend finding it for WRX/STi. Mine was from a 2013 WRX and I installed it in my 08 WRX. I only had to swap the brake switch from mine to the new one because the plugs were different. Other than that, installation was straightforward.
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Old 01-22-2020, 07:14 PM   #14
erikl1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cianuro View Post
After fixing this, I also did the master cylinder brace. Still, you need to check the spot welds on the bracket that holds the pedal assembly. I fixed mine before replacing the pedals.
I found the bad welds under the wiper cowl area but I'm not seeing them on the other side above the steering wheel. I planned on drilling out the welds and replacing with bolts. I've got my dash all pulled apart and whatnot.

Are you showing the padding being pulled back from under the steering wheel? Or is that above the steering column?
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:14 PM   #15
cianuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikl1000 View Post
I found the bad welds under the wiper cowl area but I'm not seeing them on the other side above the steering wheel. I planned on drilling out the welds and replacing with bolts. I've got my dash all pulled apart and whatnot.



Are you showing the padding being pulled back from under the steering wheel? Or is that above the steering column?


The pic shows the 2 spot weld locations at the top of the bracket. These are the only 2 I did which are located under the wiper cowl, but will be over the steering column when you pull out the dash. The padding is in the way a bit, but I don’t think I had to pull it back for them to show.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:43 AM   #16
cianuro
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Default How To: WRX 08-14 Pedal Assembly Removal and Installation

Here’s a pic with my dash off. I circled in red where the bracket is located, and the bolts can be seen without pulling back on the padding. Let me know if this helps.

https://flic.kr/p/2ijdvdD
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Old 07-10-2020, 08:54 PM   #17
bmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cianuro View Post
Installation

Following the steps backwards should do just fine. For me it was easier sliding it in place than it was taking it out. Same as when taking it out, watch out for the brake booster.

Once the assembly is in place, tighten all the bolts and reinstall the clevis pins on the brake booster and clutch master cylinder. Adjust the clutch master nut so that it reaches the linkage with the clutch pedal in it's resting position. If you don't do it like this, clutch engagement height will change and can wear the components as it did on mine.
Just finished this, this guide was really helpful. I do have one question about adjusting the clutch pedal - the clevis pin went in snug but smoothly, and with a test drive everything seems normal. What would be an indication that the clutch needs adjustment? TIA
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:20 PM   #18
cianuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmann View Post
Just finished this, this guide was really helpful. I do have one question about adjusting the clutch pedal - the clevis pin went in snug but smoothly, and with a test drive everything seems normal. What would be an indication that the clutch needs adjustment? TIA
You need to look at the clevis and where the linkage is when the pedal is fully depressed. You have to align the clevis hole with the linkage hole in this position. As long as they're aligned, it means the clutch is correctly adjusted. The clutch engagement is very high from the factory, so changing this will cause damage as it happened to me.
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Old 03-15-2023, 01:53 AM   #19
scoobaru808
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Default Thanks for this write up!

Just bought a WRX with this problem and this guide saved my life. thank you for how detailed you were!
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Old 03-15-2023, 06:05 AM   #20
cianuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobaru808 View Post
Just bought a WRX with this problem and this guide saved my life. thank you for how detailed you were!
No problem. Good to know.
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Old 11-28-2023, 04:21 PM   #21
rossi45
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Hey folks, this is a great post. I need to replace the assembly on my 09 STI. Just order the part.

Having looked at this post and I also have the mechanics manual for my car, it looks like the same procedure for a WRX and STI, but I'd like to see if anyone has experienced anything different?

Lastly, the mechanics manual says the steering column needs to be removed. The OP didn't do that, according to what I can tell. Is this unnecessary? Hoping to avoid that part of the procedure if possible.

Cheers.
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