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Old 05-16-2020, 02:37 PM   #31576
CalTech87
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Some time ago I posted about a smell coming through my air vents with the AC off, just air. People suggested burnt oil.

That same weekend I had the car on ramps and took a look. Seemed there was oil coating some parts above/around the pan. Didn't want to drop the skid plate at the time but changed my oil today and seized the opportunity.

At 6k miles since my short block replacement this is my first oil change.
There are quite a bit of parts with oil on them. Above the pan and even some spots under the transmission, weird... I don't see anything on my garage floor so the leak seems to be very slow. The parts with oil are covered in dust/dirt.





The stuff on the outside of my Fumoto valve looks to have metal shavings. If there were chavings in the oil and the leak is small would they even come out with it?



Also looks like I did some damage to my headers. I think it's just the heat shield though?




Going to have to make an appointment with the dealer. Warranty on the engine was extended after the short block replacement.
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Last edited by CalTech87; 05-16-2020 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 05-17-2020, 09:38 AM   #31577
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
I wonder what the life is of the CVTs where people have actually changed the fluid and ignored Subaru's demand that it's "lifetime", vs people who never changed it or maybe the dealer only changed it once.
The maintenance schedule for my 2012 says change it every 100,000 kms. I've never heard of Subaru claiming it was a "lifetime" fluid, but even if they did, hopefully people would realize that manufacturers only care about the car lasting until the warranty expires.

And to give you one data point, my 2012 CVT has 300,000 kms. I bought it with 250,000 kms and at 275,000 kms found out the fluid wasn't changed at the last 200,000 km service, so I had it done right away.

Last edited by FFWD; 05-17-2020 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 05-17-2020, 01:00 PM   #31578
IHaveAHorse
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Does the CVT seem to be working fine on your car with 300k km on it?
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Old 05-17-2020, 01:46 PM   #31579
DieselDorf
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Cal metal shavings couldn’t go through where it was leaking unless it’s gushing oil out.

I would take it back and tell them especially since they were the last ones to do anything to it.
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Old 05-17-2020, 03:36 PM   #31580
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
Does the CVT seem to be working fine on your car with 300k km on it?
Yup, no issues other than the original factory programming that favors economy over performance. That said, it does seem to be much better now than when I first got it, so it could be learning my preference (or unlearning the previous owner’s).
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Old 05-19-2020, 10:09 AM   #31581
CalTech87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Cal metal shavings couldn’t go through where it was leaking unless it’s gushing oil out.

I would take it back and tell them especially since they were the last ones to do anything to it.
Thanks. That's what I figured, just the stuff on the Fumoto looks very metallic and I'm wondering why.

Either way, contacting dealer today.
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:22 AM   #31582
bucky89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supertoast View Post
Any recommendations for a new battery in 2020? Still have the factory one installed in my 15, and last winter I kept thinking "man, I probably should have swapped this" as I was slowly cranking away.


I was in a similar predicament about a month ago. Debated between interstate batteries and an optimal battery. Ultimately went with a red top (O’Reiley’s Auto had a sale for online ordered, I don’t know if they still do, worth checking out to save $20)

So far, my 2015 sport limited wagon runs great. No more weird idles!
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Old 05-26-2020, 01:32 PM   #31583
FFWD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supertoast View Post
Any recommendations for a new battery in 2020? Still have the factory one installed in my 15, and last winter I kept thinking "man, I probably should have swapped this" as I was slowly cranking away.
I've been happy with batteries from Costco, or more specifically, Costco's warranty. My MDX has a lot of known electrical issues that can pop up and drain a battery, on top of it being really hard on them to begin with. So every 5 years, I need to replace it because it will start to struggle in -20 degree C temps. Costco's prorated battery warranty is no-hassle - just bring the old battery and get a prorated refund (100% within 4 or 5 years depending on brand), then pick up a new one. No waiting for testing (or arguing about the results), and the warranty period resets. Here are the terms in Canada:

Kirkland Signature Automotive (flooded battery)
0-48 months - Free replacement
49-66 months - 50% refund based on purchase price
67-100 months - 25% refund based on purchase price

Energizer AGM & Unbranded AGM
0-60 months - Full refund based on purchase price
61-80 months - 50% refund based on purchase price
81-100 months - 25% refund based on purchase price

I've also had an Energizer in my M3, absolutely no problems.
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Old 05-26-2020, 11:59 PM   #31584
IHaveAHorse
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If you guys ever have a problem with a battery seeming to drain more than normal but can't figure out anything that seems to be drawing power, make sure you don't leave one of those ODBII reader things connected all the time. I did that for a long time and I found out it was drawing like 100mA or more with the car off, which could drain the battery to barely starting in less than a week of sitting.
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Old 05-27-2020, 07:35 AM   #31585
Cujo31
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good to know; never thought about that when I use it for OBD gauges for engine temp etc.
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Old 05-28-2020, 03:21 PM   #31586
CLL_OBP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalTech87 View Post
Also looks like I did some damage to my headers. I think it's just the heat shield though?
Hope you got that cleaned up and fixed. Yeah, they bent the heat shield some kind of way. I removed mine and reused everything underneath it when I had to replace my exhaust manifold / catalytic converter earlier this month. I put it off for over a year and was resetting CEL P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 every couple of days. By the end of April it was going off everyday. Then the last week of April as many as three times a day. At that point it was time to pull the trigger. I was told by my long time Subaru Tech at the local dealership that it has to be OEM because the cheaper aftermarket high flow cats will not make the code go away, "Been there done that". It's been three weeks now and no code.

I was also going to remove and reseal the oil pan while I had the exhaust down because there was some seepage on the back side. I put the 10mm on one of the bolts just to see if it needed tightening and boy was I surprised. I turned it almost a complete turn. Went to the next one, same thing. I ended up turning every single bolt at least half a turn. No need to drop the pan now! So far so good, still dry after 1,500 miles.
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Old 05-28-2020, 03:53 PM   #31587
DieselDorf
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**** the oil pan was falling off?

Had it been serviced ever?
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Old 05-28-2020, 04:19 PM   #31588
CLL_OBP
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LOL, it wasn't falling off. The bolts were just loose. Especially the ones on the back side. That's one thing you can't do with a boxer engine unless you drop the exhaust. I've tightened bolts on every car I've owned but never did this oil pan because of the setup.
I just got a new motorcycle three weeks ago and check tightness on it this past weekend.
Gotta do that nowadays or something might fall off!
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Old 05-28-2020, 04:21 PM   #31589
CLL_OBP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFWD View Post
The maintenance schedule for my 2012 says change it every 100,000 kms. I've never heard of Subaru claiming it was a "lifetime" fluid, but even if they did, hopefully people would realize that manufacturers only care about the car lasting until the warranty expires.

And to give you one data point, my 2012 CVT has 300,000 kms. I bought it with 250,000 kms and at 275,000 kms found out the fluid wasn't changed at the last 200,000 km service, so I had it done right away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
Does the CVT seem to be working fine on your car with 300k km on it?
My car will be nine years old at the end of the year and I've changed the CVTF six times in 337,000 km. It's working fine.

(First time ever posting in km )
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Old 06-04-2020, 10:25 AM   #31590
CalTech87
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To replace the spark plugs for your vehicle to total would be $677.33+tax (includes parts and labor). We do have time to replace them if you would like while the vehicle is here. Have a great day.

These people live in a different world...
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:31 PM   #31591
DieselDorf
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Pearl White

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalTech87 View Post
To replace the spark plugs for your vehicle to total would be $677.33+tax (includes parts and labor). We do have time to replace them if you would like while the vehicle is here. Have a great day.

These people live in a different world...
$600 in labor sounds rough.

My dealer changed mine for free during the valve spring recall.
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Old 06-07-2020, 08:43 PM   #31592
flyboy1100
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Even taking my time i can do the plugs in about 1hr...... so I am willing to do yours for a bargain labor cost of only 400/hr plus parts (60.00)
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Old 06-09-2020, 10:18 AM   #31593
Angelus911
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Do you guys have a recommendation for a torque wrench for the spark plugs? Preferably 3/8”. I got a 1/2 split beam torque wrench for Xmas but unfortunately it only starts at 50 ft-lb
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Old 06-09-2020, 12:05 PM   #31594
DieselDorf
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Look on the plug box you might not need a torque wrench.

Some of them recomend how many turns to do once they bottom out like 3/4 of a turn or something like that. If you can’t acces them easily it might not work though.
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Old 06-09-2020, 02:24 PM   #31595
Angelus911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Look on the plug box you might not need a torque wrench.

Some of them recomend how many turns to do once they bottom out like 3/4 of a turn or something like that. If you can’t acces them easily it might not work though.
Yeah, these are just the NGK ones, so they have both - torque and the turns once bottomed out. Figured the torque would be more accurate
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Old 06-09-2020, 03:40 PM   #31596
DieselDorf
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Good reason to buy a tool you will get a lot of use out of though.
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:42 PM   #31597
flyboy1100
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I like my Proto torque wrenches
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:54 AM   #31598
Lanx
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95k miles at oil temp flashes like crazy, bring it home and pull p0700 and some other cvt code.

basically cvt is shot, bring to dealer and they replaced valve body cost 0.00, extended warranty is great (100k or 10years)

I've kept up with my own maintenance since I got a home/garage at 75k miles and now it drives like new.

now I know in another 10years I'll be out 2k when this new valve body decides to go to trash cuz cvt is junk
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Old 06-15-2020, 01:19 AM   #31599
IHaveAHorse
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Knowing my luck I will have the CVT blow up right past the warranty. I'm sure I could get them to do the work at like 102k or 10 years and a few months, but with my luck it'll be a bit past that, where there's no arguing with the dealer. Keeping a large chunk of money around in case I suddenly have to buy a new car.
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Old 06-15-2020, 08:57 PM   #31600
DieselDorf
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Did you service the cvt at all Lanx?

I feel the same way I’m at 107k and don’t drive much anymore. I’ve heard people can get like half of it paid by complaining when they are pretty close to the mileage for the extension.
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