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09-04-2014, 03:58 PM | #3476 | |
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try a little reading. not too hard.
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09-04-2014, 08:03 PM | #3477 |
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09-04-2014, 09:39 PM | #3478 |
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Vehicle:2012 WRX sedan PBP |
hey guys
I have read through this thread and need additional advice. 2012 wrx sedan lower on Gtworx/bilstein struts with RCE black springs. About 1 inch lower all around. A set of wheels I would want to purchase are 18x9.5 +38 along with 245/40/18 tires will I have any fitment issues with my fenders or struts? I have seen some people on this thread who are running the same tires but not the same size wheels. Thanks again guys. |
09-05-2014, 09:05 AM | #3479 | |
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09-05-2014, 11:01 AM | #3480 |
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09-07-2014, 08:31 PM | #3481 | |
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09-15-2014, 06:11 PM | #3482 |
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Enkei RPF1
Hey guys,
I've read about the first 20 pages and last 30 pages of this thread and I think I've got the basics of everything, wanted to see if anybody is running the same setup I'm considering and what advice people have. My car is my DD but I also autoX it every once in a while in SMS class due to my engine mods, Im a novice so I do it for fun and dont plan on being very competitive for a while. Ive been driving on 17x8 wheels with all seasons since I started. So I want to upgrade my wheels/ tires to a setup that looks great and will grip better. Also hoping to upgrade the suspension to something that will handle better while not shattering my teeth on every big bump. 2011 WRX hatch standard Current Suspension: stock plus front and rear eibach sways Wheels/ Tires: ~stock Future setup: Suspension: Hoping to add koni shock inserts with possibly RCE yellows or Blacks, as far as I can tell the yellows are stiffer? I dont think I want to lower the car that much, I just want stiffer springs, I hate how my friends with lower cars cant get up some driveways without scraping and I like the fact that my subie can handle the occasional ****ty driveway. Koni's because they arent that expensive, I can do the install work and it seems like my autoX buddies swear by them (esp. for beginners). Wheels/Tires: I want to do 18x9.5 because I think it looks great and would give me more grip. I could probably perform well in autoX for a lot cheaper but I like the looks too. So after reading and doing calculations I've decided to go with 265/35-18 tires, probably star specs or RS3s. The wheels are the main question. I plan on rolling my rear fenders, I dont want to but it seems like a necessity, especially if I dont want to ruin a 1000 dollar set of tires. Regarding this, since my car is my DD it is sometimes taken on road trips or is used to carry a lot of heavy stuff (hence y i got the hatch), will this cause it to rub with the above setup if its loaded with weight? Anyway, the wheels im thinking about: Enkei T6S 18x9.5 +45, they arent too expensive, look somewhat like the more expensive Japanese wheels, but they r quite heavy Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +38, offset is a bit low? But they weigh next to nothing and I know are great wheels, I'm just not a huge fan of the looks, plus they are more expensive than the T6S Rays Gram light 57C6 18x9.5 +40, Everything about these seems amazing to me, cept they r super expensive. Offset seems good, weight is pretty good, and they look amazing. I figure the advice I get here will help me decide, I dont have a problem paying a little more since I plan on keeping this setup for a number of years and how the car looks does matter to me, but I'd say performance matters more. I've tried to do the research but I'm no where near an expert and I appreciate any help I can get! |
09-15-2014, 06:20 PM | #3483 |
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For your needs RCE Yellows sound good. They aren't as low, and they are stiffer, probably a much better autocross spring than the Blacks. Star Specs in 265/35-18 would be amazing.
You will NEED to roll the rear fenders, this is not optional. +38 is fine. With the +45 you might need a 3mm spacer or so to clear the springs depending on how much camber you have. The rest is pretty subjective but the RPF1's are going to be the lightest of the bunch (they are lighter than the Gram Lights, and significantly cheaper). |
09-15-2014, 06:39 PM | #3484 | |
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09-15-2014, 09:48 PM | #3485 | |
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The gram lights arent cheap or as light as RPF1 but Im thinking they are a lot stronger? Do you guys think with that 18'' wheel with 265/35-18, RCE yelllows and konis would constantly rub even with fenders rolled if the car was loaded with a lot of weight or is that not much of a worry? |
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09-16-2014, 09:19 AM | #3486 | ||
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09-16-2014, 01:42 PM | #3487 | |
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RPF1's are fantastic wheels in the proper environment, smooth roads and track use. They are very lightweight, but sacrificing some strength to do so. In everyday use, they are fine, but hit something hard, and you stand a very good chance of damaging the wheel. Another poster had 2 RPF1's for sale just recently... not 4, only 2, because the other 2 were bent... a 17 inch might be a better choice in that wheel, depending on your local roads. But then your friends would all say your wheels are too small...! A true rally wheel, like a 16 inch Braid for example, weighs about 20 lbs... heavy for a 16. A similar sized RPF1 weighs about 14 lbs. The Braid focuses on strength, sacrificing light weight to do so. You can't have both... ! I new a guy who bought a BMW 330i a few years back, that came with upgraded 19's... looked freakin' awesome, but the tire had NO sidewall. He went 1 month before complaining about a vibration, which was from a bent ( really expensive...) wheel. As good as a low profile looks, and works from a handling perspective, some places simply don't have the roads for it. If you live where the roads are not perfect, understand that wheels will be a consumable part, and budget accordingly. Or, run smaller wheels and taller tires... chances are you will still bend the occasional wheel, just not as many...! |
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09-16-2014, 03:05 PM | #3488 | |
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09-18-2014, 02:01 PM | #3490 |
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Hey guys... So the wheels are on. 18x9.5 +38 DR and they look great. I'll have to roll the rears as they do rub on bumps with my coil instal. I went and got alignment and the rear is not adjustable as we know... So the rears are about 1.5° out. I believe the stock settings is right there also? I may look into adjustable control arms... But what is everyone else doing? Just dealing with it and rotating/flipping?
-Reese |
09-18-2014, 02:17 PM | #3491 |
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1.5* of camber is just fine, you want some camber for handling.
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09-18-2014, 04:11 PM | #3492 |
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Might want to consider a 17x9 Enkei RPF1+45
I have the same set up as Bilingham except I am on Prodrive springs. Mass roads suck and have had zero issues. |
09-18-2014, 06:11 PM | #3493 | |
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09-18-2014, 10:44 PM | #3494 | |
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Toe was fixed! Car does pull to the right more than before the alignment. Going to call them tomorrow to see if they can get me back in. Also will be doing a fender roll tomorrow. -Reese |
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09-19-2014, 11:22 AM | #3495 |
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Guide to fitting wheels and tires to the 2011-2014 WRX
Hello.. I'm trying to get a wheel that is 18x9.5. I was originally gonna go with 265/35 or 255/35 but I heard that narrower tires are better for snow. So now I'm debating between 235/40 or 225/40. So my question is: will the 225/40 have too much of a stretch on a 9.5in wide wheel?
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09-19-2014, 12:01 PM | #3496 | |
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09-19-2014, 01:15 PM | #3497 |
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I don't think putting snow tires on a 9.5" wide wheel is a good idea. Look at rally cars. They run really narrow wheels and tires to dig through the snow. Not drive over it. I'd suggest putting snows on your stockers. :-)
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09-19-2014, 03:13 PM | #3498 |
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I don't actually plan on putting winter tires. Just all season. I looked on the manufacturers website and 235/40 is acceptable on a 9.5 wide wheel. So would I sacrifice anything by going 225/40?
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09-19-2014, 04:10 PM | #3499 |
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09-19-2014, 04:58 PM | #3500 |
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realistically, you need to be buying a dedicated winter setup.
especially if you're trying to brostance. |
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