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Old 08-13-2020, 12:45 PM   #1
pr0dy
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Member#: 464067
Join Date: Mar 2017
Default Stripped Drainage Bolt On Oil Pan

Have a 2016 Subaru impreza base wagon. Was changing my oil yesterday which I've done numerous times but ended up stripping the drainage bolt. So I spent the whole day with a buddy trying different ways to remove the bolt, got an extraction socket, used vice grips, channel locks, sprayed some pb blaster, even tried to grind down the bolt to fit a smaller socket. Nothing would make it budge.

I'm all out of options other than trying to change the oil pan? Any suggestions?
I've called to different auto shops and they're charging almost $500 to change it out. Should it really cost this much? Isn't it just a matter of unbolting the oil pan gasket and putting a new one on? If my next and only option is to change the pan itself - can someone help me outline the steps on what I would need to do?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 08-13-2020, 01:26 PM   #2
Samurai Jack
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Member#: 21145
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Not in my own time
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2002 Enemy of Aku

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Are you sure they are charging $500 just to remove the bolt or is it really to change out the pan?

On the bolt, you are saying that the bolt is all the way into the pan, and you can't back it out at all? I presume the bolt turns, it just won't back out.

You have stripped the pan threads, so even if you gat the bolt out, you are still going to have to fix that. There are kits you can get to replace the OEM bolt. Ot will cut new threads into the pan and you use the new bolt in the kit.

Have you tried putting a flat bladed screwdriver under the bolt? What you need is some pressure on the bolt to get the threads to catch.

Changing the oil pan is not all that hard, if you are decent with tools.
If you are going to do a new pan, you will have to get the old oil out first. It will a complete mess trying to do it with the old oil in the pan.

1. Buy new pan and gasket
2. Buy Grey RTV silicone sealant.
3. Put car on ramps / jack stands
4. Drain old oil - ie; punch hole in old pan to drain out into a catch pan
5. Jack up the engine enough to clear the rear oil pan bolts from the engine cradle to access the pan bolt and give enough room to get pan out / in
- You can place a block of wood under the crank pully and jack up with a floor jack.

NOTE: Before you do this, you will need to unbolt the engine mounts. You should also unbolt the pitch stop mount.

6. Unbolt and remove old pan
- You will have to wiggle the pan a little to clear the oil pan pick-up
7. Clean / dry bottom of engine where pan sits from any old gasket material, etc.
- You can use a paint scraper
- DO NOT gouge the engine

9. Apply RTV to new pan & gasket
10. Install new pan and gasket in reverse order
11. Allow 24 hours for RTV cure
12. Add new oil and new filter
13. Start engine and let idle and look for leaks

That pretty much covers it
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Old 08-13-2020, 01:36 PM   #3
pr0dy
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Member#: 464067
Join Date: Mar 2017
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
Are you sure they are charging $500 just to remove the bolt or is it really to change out the pan?

On the bolt, you are saying that the bolt is all the way into the pan, and you can't back it out at all? I presume the bolt turns, it just won't back out.

You have stripped the pan threads, so even if you gat the bolt out, you are still going to have to fix that. There are kits you can get to replace the OEM bolt. Ot will cut new threads into the pan and you use the new bolt in the kit.

Have you tried putting a flat bladed screwdriver under the bolt? What you need is some pressure on the bolt to get the threads to catch.

Changing the oil pan is not all that hard, if you are decent with tools.
If you are going to do a new pan, you will have to get the old oil out first. It will a complete mess trying to do it with the old oil in the pan.

1. Buy new pan and gasket
2. Buy Grey RTV silicone sealant.
3. Put car on ramps / jack stands
4. Drain old oil - ie; punch hole in old pan to drain out into a catch pan
5. Jack up the engine enough to clear the rear oil pan bolts from the engine cradle to access the pan bolt and give enough room to get pan out / in
- You can place a block of wood under the crank pully and jack up with a floor jack.

NOTE: Before you do this, you will need to unbolt the engine mounts. You should also unbolt the pitch stop mount.

6. Unbolt and remove old pan
- You will have to wiggle the pan a little to clear the oil pan pick-up
7. Clean / dry bottom of engine where pan sits from any old gasket material, etc.
- You can use a paint scraper
- DO NOT gouge the engine

9. Apply RTV to new pan & gasket
10. Install new pan and gasket in reverse order
11. Allow 24 hours for RTV cure
12. Add new oil and new filter
13. Start engine and let idle and look for leaks

That pretty much covers it
No the bolt doesn't turn, I'm referring to the bolt head is rounded off and stripped. I can't get it to turn enough to break loose and turn.

Couple questions, can I just punch a hole in the pain using a nail and hammer? Or should I drill into it? (This may sound silly but, is there a possibility it may cause a spark that may ignite the oil if I drill?) Also, might you have a reference picture on how can I unbolt the engine and pitch stop mounts?

Thanks!
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Old 08-13-2020, 02:04 PM   #4
Samurai Jack
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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Location: Not in my own time
Vehicle:
2002 Enemy of Aku

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pr0dy View Post
No the bolt doesn't turn, I'm referring to the bolt head is rounded off and stripped. I can't get it to turn enough to break loose and turn.

Couple questions, can I just punch a hole in the pain using a nail and hammer? Or should I drill into it? (This may sound silly but, is there a possibility it may cause a spark that may ignite the oil if I drill?) Also, might you have a reference picture on how can I unbolt the engine and pitch stop mounts?

Thanks!
Oh, that's different. The bolt is frozen or over-torqued and is now stuck. Now I get it.

Questions:
- When you tried the vice grips / channel locks, Are you saying you couldn't get it to budge at all?
- When you used the ratchet and socket, are you saying you couldn't get it to budge at all?

I am going to presume the answer to both questions is " yes ".

Now, did you try using a breaker bar with the socket? Do you know what those are? They look like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...SABEgLX9PD_BwE

Seems you put seriously over-torqued the bolt into the pan.
* TIP * DO NOT DO THAT AGAIN!

Get yourself a breaker bar. They come in 3/8" and 1/2" sizes, at a minimum.
You will have to hammer a socket onto the bolt.
Apply pressure to break the bolt loose and you should be good to go EXCEPT you will need new pan drain bolt.

BTW, 6-point sockets are better than 12-point sockets because they grip the bolt with a lot more surface area. Get one for this purpose. You can even get HD ones, like the ones used for air tools.


As for draining the pan if you can't get the bolt out, you can try hammering a nail into it and then opening up the hole. It won't be that easy but could be done.

I don't think drilling a hole into the pan, if necessary, would be an issue. I would if I had a need to do so. Just use a sharp drill bit so it goes quickly and don't be right under it or you will be covered in oil.

I don't have reference picture but if you have a pitch stop, just open the hood and, if it's there, it will be in the middle of the firewall along the top. One end bolts to the firewall and one end bolts to the motor.

As for the motor mounts, just crawl under the car. You will see the engine cradle under the engine. There is one motor mount on each side. Just unbolt the one (1) bolt on each mount and the engine will be free enough to move.

You DO NOT want to jack the motor up too high or you will damage the radiator hoses and other electrical wires, etc. but you can raise the motor high enough to get the pan in and out.

Once you have the motor jacked up enough for the motor mount bolts to clear the engine cradle, you are good.
When you go to lower the motor back down, you will need a crowbar to pop the motor mount bolts back into the engine cradle

Last edited by Samurai Jack; 08-13-2020 at 03:44 PM.
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