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Old 04-27-2011, 12:23 AM   #1
KUEDA
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Default Best Track/street Alignment?

I just installed a WL Race ALK kit, WL Roll center kit, JDM rear lateral links and trailing arms. I'm going for an alignment tomorrow and i'm not quite sure what I want to run this year.

I DD this car, but don't put many miles on it. I also plan to run up in 9-10 track days/ time attacks this season. Just wondering what setup would be competitive on the track but still no reasonable for the street?

I run TIC SST coilovers, Vorshlag camberplates, WL 24mm swaybars, Ferodo DS3000/2500 (Track/Street) pads, 245/45/17 RE11's.

I am thinking:


F: -2.5* Camber , 0 Toe, +5-6* Caster R: -2.0* Camber , 0 Toe, 0 Caster


What's everyone's opinions and suggestions?
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Last edited by KUEDA; 04-27-2011 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:51 AM   #2
Butt Dyno
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What methods of camber adjustment do you have?

I'd consider -3 f -2 r with 0 toe and as much caster as you can get (don't worry about rear caster as it is not adjustable AFAIK)
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:19 AM   #3
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if you run other than '0' toe....your tires wont last long

if you can get 6 - 6.5 caster in front, that would be great....camber/caster front tops are a must for this as likely will be 'other' adjustment methods...an ALK would be a good thing to buy

I'd do -2.5 - -3 camber in front and -2 - -2.3 camber in back, depending on what you do in front

more positive caster in front will mean that you will likely need less camber in front, which is good for braking stability and wet weather performance
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:29 AM   #4
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with -2.5 deg front camber, zero toe, 5 deg caster over the full life of a set of tyres for DD and track days I had just a touch more wear on the inside edge than outside edge, hope that helps.
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:25 AM   #5
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Threadjack!
Is there a sticky for this? <- my new favorite question.

Where do you get this info?

I am in the same boat. I am purchasing a ALK soon and I need to do more research on the roll center kit. ->aggressive daily driving.

Thanks for beating me to the thread!
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:54 AM   #6
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Alignments aren't tricky. Keep your toe to zero to keep your tires from wearing unreasonably quickly. Get as much front camber as you can (to a point on the streets), while the rear is a little bit lower. Same with caster, but don't worry about rear caster.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:00 AM   #7
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Thanks for the input guys.

I think i'm gonna go with:


-2.5 deg front camber, zero toe, +5-6 deg caster

-2 deg rear camber, zero toes, 0 caster

Last edited by KUEDA; 04-27-2011 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:20 AM   #8
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Your caster is not adjustable either, there are ways of getting more like your ALK but its not like you can just wind it up to 6 degrees.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:38 AM   #9
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I think -2 in the rear will be too much, I'll go for rear -1.5 if front caster is in 5-6 range. and then balance the car with tire pressure.

but depends mainly on the track configuration and driving habits. one setup works for one man on the track, other setup doesn't

I have -2.3f, -1.3 rear, 22mm rear swaybar, 6* caster. car is neutral on the middle speeds, up to 140km/h, after this tends to oversteer if rear tire pressure is the same as front. depending on the course I can adjust pressures and get the car feeling I want.

Last edited by bako; 04-27-2011 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:59 AM   #10
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I'd go -2.5 F ~ 0 Toe ~ and -1.5 Rear.

That's what I run, good balance for street use, you don't need too much for the rear.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDwhiteWRX View Post
Your caster is not adjustable either, there are ways of getting more like your ALK but its not like you can just wind it up to 6 degrees.
there are all sorts of ways to adjust caster...you just have to have the right combination of parts and...stock or otherwise......and knowing how to apply force to the correct areas while assembling things


I helped someone get a bit over 9 caster on an 05 sti without going to extraordinary means....more was possible....but 9 was WAY too much and it got dialed back
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:19 PM   #12
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Yes I know how to get it, was just letting the OP know that its not like turning a camber bolt.

I hear the best way is to loosen off all the bolts on the front suspension then drive backwards really fast, slam on the brakes then quickly jump out and torque everything back up?
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Old 08-13-2020, 06:07 AM   #13
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i have a stock 17 sti and will have my first track day recently. Any suggestion for alignment set up? My current plan is camber -2.5 F, -2 R. 0 toe and keep current catering
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Old 08-13-2020, 07:21 PM   #14
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Won't be able to get any of those camber numbers if stock. You hired a caterer for your alignment appointment? How thoughtful.
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Old 08-14-2020, 09:55 AM   #15
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What’s more important. Your tires and DD reliability or your track performance?

I would think a DD alignment is different than a track alignment. So you will be trying to find that perfect compromise.

If you only track here or there, I would get a more conservative alignment for every day driving and deal with it on the track day. Likely so many other factors like the nut behind the wheel that will effect your times.

If it’s a weekend car then have at it.
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Old 08-15-2020, 07:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernest View Post
What’s more important. Your tires and DD reliability or your track performance?

I would think a DD alignment is different than a track alignment. So you will be trying to find that perfect compromise.

If you only track here or there, I would get a more conservative alignment for every day driving and deal with it on the track day. Likely so many other factors like the nut behind the wheel that will effect your times.

If it’s a weekend car then have at it.
This ^^^



Though I will note to gtsilver that the more , ummm, "enthusiastic" your normal day to day cornering gets, the more likely it'll probably be for you to find something close to such a compromise. I'm talking some overall average of all your cornering here, commuter and grocery-getting driving included, not some once-in-a-while run through an entrance ramp or a drive out in the country or canyons.


Norm
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Old 08-15-2020, 06:49 PM   #17
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For a Stock STI, Max negative camber that you can get front and rear, zero out the toe and be done with it.

For numbers to shoot for, I'd go with the -2.5 degrees front and -1.5 degrees rear. If your alignment guy know how to get more caster in the front have them get as much as they can. I know ways of getting slightly more caster even with all stock parts, it's just the effort of doing so.

Another BIG thing to keep in mind is to get both sides the same and for you to be sitting in the drivers seat while the alignment is being done (your weight changes the ride height of the car slightly, and thus the alignment).

Also- fill out your profile. If you are around me I have an alignment guy who is amazing. (Minneapolis, MN)
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Old 08-16-2020, 05:40 PM   #18
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He said he was stock.

Max negative camber with stock camber bolts in the front is -1.7ish.
Rear is non-adjustable if stock and likely -2.X.

Yes, the desirable ratio is higher front than rear as you have better camber gain with the multilink as compared the the McPherson strut. But you need aftermarket camber bolts/plates up front and rear LCAs to achieve that. To get more caster you need eccentric control arm bushings or an aftermarket top hat.

If stock, just max out negative front camber and zero toe. A good alignment with stock parts will actually make a world of difference for a daily with rare track/autox days, even though you will not be able to achieve the "ideal" numbers.
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