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Old 08-14-2020, 11:05 AM   #26
NicMonte
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Member#: 479655
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Omaha, Ne
Vehicle:
2020 Impreza wrx
CWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post
Make sure the reservoir is full before you pump the clutch pedal.

Don't drain the fluid. Keep it topped off as your bleeding it. Bleed it until fresh fluid comes out.


Yes sir, I’ll keep it topped off as I pump and bleed etc.

I’ll return here and update the thread.
Thanks guys.
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Old 10-19-2020, 09:31 AM   #27
CrazyRich152
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Member#: 519505
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: too close to Seattle
Vehicle:
2001 Non-Subaru work
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Default Easy Bleed for Subaru inverted slave cylinders

I have the procedure.

It's my own.

1 man operation.

Fill the master reservoir up close to the top.

Assemble everything as Subaru puts them on the car.

Push the clutch to the floor.

It will STAY there until done.

Next collect some clear tubing 12" or more for the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.

Grab a 2" ID pipe or rubber hose 12" long or more. You will put your mouth to this so you can pressurize the clutch master reservoir. The other end you hold on top of the clutch reservoir so you can force brake fluid through clutch master. Or if you have a brake pressure bleeding tank and cap large enough to hold over clutch reservoir.

Then grab a 14mm socket and ratchet

Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission

Ive only seen Subaru do this with a slave cylinder in 43 years of fixing cars.

The slave cylinder is angled upwards on the WRONG end

Subaru put the bleeder lower than most of the slave cylinder AND clutch hydraulics.


WHY?

Remove slave. Move the slave to have the bleeder screw behind the intercooler facing up at 12 o clock position higher than the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

The pushrod/piston at 6 oclock.

Open the bleeder at least a full turn AFTER filling the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid.



Put the clear tubing on the nipple. Hold the pushrod/piston end in your hand. This is to keep it from coming out of the slave cylinder. Only need 5 to 10 lbs pressure. Just enough to move fresh brake fluid and REMOVE AIR bubbles under piston end of slave cylinder.

I didnt crack my system open when I replaced the clutch

BUT connecting the throw out bearing to the NEW patented ring on the clutch fingers caused a vacuum to be created and AIR drawn INTO the slave cylinder when I moved the clutch form to engage the clutch cover.

Due to the negative angle of the slave cylinder position and relation to the bleeder screw and supplly hose you CANNOT FULLY bleed this ANY position unless you rotate the SLAVE cylinder this way.

Once you do that.

Gently pressurize the clutch reservoir and WATCH all the BUBBLES come up the clear tubing on the bleeder screw.

Do it 1st piston/pushrod side up.

Bleeder down to learn and understand WHY this is a problem. You will SEE. Pushrod UP DOESNT GET ALL THE AIR OUT. THEN REVERSE IT. BLEEDER UP.

ALL KINDS OF BUBBLES TRAPPED BY THE PISTON/PUSHROD.



Then do it the way I suggest. Bleeder UP pushrod down 2nd and or 3rd time once you understand the How and Why.

1 man operation.

Bleed all the air out.

Then lift clutch pedal.

Check the travel, pressure and feel.

Then bleed it with the pedal UP to make sure it's ALL OUT.

the AIR that is.

No more problem.


CrazyRich

Last edited by CrazyRich152; 10-19-2020 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 10-19-2020, 12:53 PM   #28
CrazyRich152
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Member#: 519505
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: too close to Seattle
Vehicle:
2001 Non-Subaru work
White

Default Easy Bleed for Subaru inverted slave cylinders

Oops. Double post.

Last edited by CrazyRich152; 10-19-2020 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Duplicate
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