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02-18-2021, 05:27 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
Multiple codes, don't know what else to do...
Okay so in December 2020 I pulled the engine to do a clutch. Since then every so often I have gotten the same 3 repeated codes even after replacing sensors.
P0139 (rear o2 sensor slow response) P0457 (gas cap/evac leak) P0852 (park/neutral position switch) I have since replaced the o2 sensor but it still shows up? What else other than a bad sensor would cause it? I haven't even messed with the neutral switch so could it have just simply gone bad? I don't have any left over vacuum lines after reinstalling the engine so possibly I didn't get one on all the way? |
02-18-2021, 07:06 PM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 283429
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
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Vehicle:2016 Fuji Sunfire 03 Silver |
Since the wiring for the rear O2 and the neutral switch are in the same harness that runs down the left side of the transmission I would look there first - unplugged connector, stretch/broken/pinched wires...
Be aware those neutral switches are prone to failure as well. The P0457 could be you didn't reconnect the evap vent hoses at engine, broke the evap solenoid, have a failed evap vent solenoid. It could also be not related to the work you did. If you didn't leave something loose then a smoke test would be in order. |
02-18-2021, 07:46 PM | #3 | |
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02-20-2021, 02:04 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
Okay so took that sub-harness out, cut the shielding and sure enough, 3 wires were cut, the dark and light green and the black wire, got them back together, put some heat shrink around them and the codes went away. Also found that my TiAL BOV line had come off so I got that back on there to fix the vaccum leak.
Thank you Elbert Bass for pointing me in the right direction! |
02-20-2021, 03:02 PM | #5 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 283429
Join Date: May 2011
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02-27-2021, 09:04 PM | #6 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
Alright so just in case anyone is having the same issues, since fixing the trans sub-harness wiring the neutral switch code went away and my slow response oxygen sensor (O2 sensor) was still popping up. Took a look at the plugs and my cyl 1 plus porcelain was cracked and I was using the wrong heat range for the boost I was running!
I switched from a SILFR6A plug to a LFR7Aix plug and gapped it down to .025" and since then the car hasn't thrown any codes since. |
03-02-2021, 10:24 AM | #7 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
P0139 popped up again... found another thread that was saying the rain caused it most of the time but I don't think thats the case for me. Im not sure what else to do at this point, it all started after I replaced the clutch but my o2 sensor harness didn't appear pinched and all the wires for that were in tact, just the neutral switch harness was cut, they weren't on the same harness either (2010 sti) they were separate so I'm going to just replace the sensor one more time and not use a $38 rockauto special and try a Bosch sensor.. wish me luck
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03-03-2021, 07:59 AM | #8 | |
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Join Date: May 2011
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Quote:
Another thing could be a leak at the gasket between downpipe/midpipe. A leak will let air in and make the O2 sensor "see" diluted air. That code indicates the O2 sensor is not tracking closely with what the A/F sensor is reading and an air leak is one thing that will cause it. |
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03-14-2021, 01:48 PM | #9 | |
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Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
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Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
Quote:
Last edited by WRXXXED; 03-14-2021 at 02:53 PM. |
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03-20-2021, 07:57 AM | #10 | |
Scooby Specialist
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03-20-2021, 12:36 PM | #11 |
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I suggest you check the power going to the heater of the sensor to make sure that is good. If the power is low it would take longer to get the sensor up to proper operating temperature.
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04-22-2021, 01:49 PM | #12 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
What should the proper voltage level be? 5v I assume? How can I check that? I have a voltmeter do I just check the power and ground together?
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03-26-2021, 08:09 AM | #13 |
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Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
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Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
Took it to a shop yesterday and they told me there was a hole in the downpipe. They welded it and said its all good now. Im still not convinced thats the problem because I took the downpipe off to inspect it and I see where they welded. It was a gouge in the pipe from when I was driving to Allentown, PA to get my project car injectors flow tested and cleaned and hit a massive pothole. It rotated the downpipe towards the axle and was rubbing there... I did end up having to replace the axle but there wasn't a leak in the downpipe, hell I never got a check engine code for a slow oxygen sensor until this past fall. Im convinced that itll pop up again... ill keep you all posted
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03-27-2021, 03:36 PM | #14 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
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03-28-2021, 10:19 AM | #15 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 283429
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Down yonder.
Vehicle:2016 Fuji Sunfire 03 Silver |
Quote:
In mechanic speak "they are now married to it" BTW: you don't by chance have one of those O2 fitting spacer on that rear O2 sensor? That can make your sensor read "slow". Last edited by Elbert Bass; 03-28-2021 at 10:24 AM. Reason: add BTW |
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03-29-2021, 09:28 AM | #16 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
Quote:
As for the BTW, I do not have a spacer in-between the o2 sensor and bung. |
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04-11-2021, 08:34 AM | #17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 432652
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Gap, PA
Vehicle:2010 Subaru WRX STI 61K (Gray) |
So it's been a couple weeks but when they re-diagnosed it they found a crack in the header at the flange of my KillerB holy header. Now they do have a lifetime warranty but unfortunately thats only for original buyers and I bought the car with the header on it, they also said that there is a leak at the V-band between the header and uppipe so I guess I'll try a new clamp but I don't think that'll fix the leak. Going to try a couple of things with that v-band mating and report back but ill be welding that flange crack and see how it goes
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