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04-14-2023, 12:57 AM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 124809
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Detroit, MI
Vehicle:04 FXT, 07 STI JBP, SWP |
Help! my JDM version 6 Type RA will not start
Hey guys, I haven't posted on here for a while. I've been working on my jdm 2000 sti type ra that has been sitting for just over a year. Regretfully, not well taken care of. Before the car got abandoned, it had a hard starting problem. The engine barely started after 3-4 tries of long cranking. Once the engine got fired up, it ran just fine with the full boost. I also have to mention that the car did have an occasional rpm drop and near stalling moment at idle even with the engine fully warmed up. It has 80k miles and aftermarket intake and catback. Other than that, the car drove fine to the parking where it had been sitting.
The car now is not starting at all. i've spent numerous hours in the last two week or so diagnosing the problem, but I've come to a dead end. I'm hoping to get some advices from fellow subie owners on here and possibly help those who will be in the same boat as me. The investigation in order: 1. The engine cranks but will not start. 2. The battery was old and weak. Replaced with the brand new. 3. The starter motor bites and rotates strong. 4. Inspected crank and cam sensors. No loose connectors. They seemed okay but a little dirty. Replaced with brand new oem. 5. The spark plugs were removed and inspected. No funny color nor smell. No fuel fouling. They seemed aged. Replaced with the brand new NGK oem spec (PFR7B). Noticed the old ones were PFR6B. 6. The spark wires seemed old as well. Replaced with the brand new oem wires. 7. The coil pack seemed fine visually, but it was NOT inspected with multimeter. 8. Cranked the engine with the spark plug out of the cylinder head, one at a time. Verified the spark visually. 9. Sprayed brake cleaner to the intake cone filter. The engine briefly started for 1 sec or so then died immediately. From here, I had a strong belief that it was the fuel issue. 10. The fuel pump operation sound was heard with the key ON engine OFF. 11. Verified power to fuel pump relay. Verified operation of relay with multimeter. Verifired power to fuel pump. All OK. 12. Verified power to injectors with the key ON engine OFF. Verified ground signals with a noid light. Verified continuity and resistance with multimeter. 13. Removed old gasoline in the tank. The gasoline was quite dark and dirty. Refilled with high octane gas. Replaced the stock fuel pump with brand new walbro 255 kit. Replaced fuel filter. The fuel residue came out of the old filter was not clean as well. 14. Installed fuel pressure gauge inline between fuel filter and fuel rail inlet. 36psi engine OFF. 48psi when fuel pump primes with key ON engine OFF. 48psi when cranking and back down to 36psi when stopped. This was with fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose on. 15. Removed fuel return hose from the fuel rail and verified fuel comes out when fuel pump primes. Verified the return flow at the fuel pump itself as well. Summary: -Battery OK. -Starter motor OK. -Spark OK. Maybe weak spark? -Fuel... Maybe clogged injectors? but all 4 at the same time? Maybe clogged fuel rail? -Cleaned idle control valve and MAF sensor. Things in question: -Cylinder compression not yet measured, but the fact that it started with spray of brake cleaner tells me this isn't compression issue. Compression tester is ordered just to be sure. -Even after long crankings, there's no fuel odor coming out of exhaust. The brake cleaner odor does come out when sprayed at the cone filter. Suspecting injector not spraying at all. -Fuel warning light occationally comes on with fuel level meter at 1/4. The tank is currently filled with 20liter of gasoline. -Tried diagnostic mode then realized there is no bulb for CEL light...lol. Looks like the previous owner removed it to pass the emission test. Not sure if I should even bother with diagnostic mode. -Suspected aftermarket immobilizer with an extra remote controller that originally came with the car; however, no immobilizer module found and the car started fine previously. I will update this post as I go further. Any advice would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Rae
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04-14-2023, 01:40 AM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 510366
Join Date: Jan 2020
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I didn't see stabil in your parking lot storage plan lol.
Injectors and fuel system probably varnished. Try this, i used in a lawnmower that sat for 2 years, didn't start right up but started. I wouldnt recommend this in a car like that nice, but hey it's already dead, and your also suspecting fueling soooo.... https://www.amazon.com/B3C-Fuel-Solutions-2-024-1-Mechanic/dp/B00CHS25OW/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=MECHANIC+IN+A+BOTTLE&qid= 1681450441&sr=8-17 |
04-16-2023, 08:29 PM | #3 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 124809
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Detroit, MI
Vehicle:04 FXT, 07 STI JBP, SWP |
Quote:
I have more findings in the past few days though. The fuel pressure is checked between the return line and the engine fuel rail outlet after the fuel pressure regulator. There's close to none pressure existed. Maybe 8 psish when the pump primes and engine cranks then back down to 0 psi... I then disconnected the return hose at the fuel rail to visually inspect if the return fuel actually flows. It does, but apprarently not enough to build the right amount of operating pressure. So, this does look like something is stuck or clogged in the fuel rail. However, this still does not explain why none of the injectors are spraying with the right amount fuel pressure at the inlet. Shouldn't there still be pressure at the outlet even if the injectors aren't spraying? Maybe, the fuel rail is clogged from the inlet? I'm going to try cleaning the system with some fuel cleaner in the meantime. Any advise would be appreciated! |
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04-16-2023, 11:54 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 510366
Join Date: Jan 2020
|
I mean if it worked before and doesnt work now, whole line could be varnished depending on what fuel you jad in it, if you had corn in it, which is hygroscopic, and it froze, whole line and system could be shot.
I had a line freeze with 10% corn pump gas at the regulator. Then when it thawed it leaked, could have been a disaster spraying into the engine bay, becuae it idled just fine. Luckily im a car nut so after 1 yr start up i stared into the engine bay just looking and saw a small drip at idle. |
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