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Old 01-21-2005, 10:50 AM   #26
Unabomber
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If you wanna talk about multiple names.....the Brits have it covered! I was working on a local guy's car with him, and his British dad was there to help. He's say he'd want the nuttiest tool and after several moments of hard thinking, I'd say, "Did you mean an adjustable wrench?". With which, he'd reply, "Very well, if that's what you Yanks call it." We then talked about the crown wheel and pinion gears, layshafts, and other odd English terms that make no sense to us.

Thanks for the funnel idea, I'll add them.
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Old 01-21-2005, 12:37 PM   #27
wawazat
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Thumbs up Very impressive

Can I make a request Ron?

I'm a moderator over at the SVX Network site, and with your permission, I would love to add this to our site. You have done a fantastic job putting this together and I would like to be able to share it with other Subaru fans who don't necessarily make it over here.


Thanks,
Todd
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Old 01-21-2005, 12:47 PM   #28
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Please, feel free. Someone else here is using my Oil FAQ on their Sentra site as well. My FAQs are free for one and all. I'd recommend linking rather than copying though, as I update them a lot. Otherwise, the content is yours to beg, borrow, modify, or steal as you see fit. Don't worry about credit either as I don't care about that either.
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyhawk
Man, I thought someone came out with a new tool. I have never heard of a gear wrench before. I had to Google it. Come to find out, it is what I call and have always heard called a ratcheting box end wrench. Made me laugh at how many names a certain tool can have. You know, a hammer or an attitude adjustment tool.

The 'new' 'gearwrench' is a BIG improvement over the ratcheting box end wrench of old
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Old 11-17-2005, 02:09 PM   #30
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Excerpt from a column by Peter Egan (Road and Track)

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted parts you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to further round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

PHONE: Tool for calling the parts house for the answer to the question: how long will your car be on the jack stands blocking your wife's spot in the garage. Also for calling your neighbor to see if he has anything for getting his dog's ***** off your boot.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.

EXPLETIVE: A balm, also referred to as mechanic's lube, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:16 AM   #31
gas-is-expensive
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dude, you are the ****, thank you
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Old 04-24-2007, 12:22 AM   #32
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Default What's the exhaust bolt torque specs for installing SPT Cat back exhaust?

I have recently purchased the SPT Cat Back Exhaust System for my '07 Subaru Impreza STI and want to make sure that I torque down the exhaust bolts per spec so that it seals correctly with no leaks. Does anyone know ? Your help is much appreciated .

Regards,
Robb007
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:24 AM   #33
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Default Tool Specs

Great resources, thanks for writing it out!

I need to change my timing belt and I would really like to save the $80 bucks by making my own crank pully holder. The nearest place that has one is many miles. A welder to make it with and metal to make it from I have, what I don't have are the dimensions. Does anyone happen to have one they could put a caliper to and tell me the specs?

This would be the holder for a '96 2.2L Legacy


Thanks!
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:31 AM   #34
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Just a word of caution about Harbor Freight. I have purchased many items from them and have spent many hours combing the store for tools and such. I would never order from them online. Why? There is a huge difference in quality among their products. They have some great stuff, but they also have some junk. You just need to be sure to go in there and evaluate each item and decide if it's good enough for your application.
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:35 AM   #35
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Default impact driver question

I am about to replace my doughnut gasket... my dealer wanted over a hundered dollars for the labor to do this. I am pretty confindent that this will nto be much of a problem as long as i can get the original fasteners off. if these bolts are as rusty as the ones i needed to remove for my catback install, then pb blaster will probably not be enough to loosen the rust on the nuts.

Could an impact driver like this work, or will i make other problems when i strike it with a hammer, putting pressure on the dp and turbo?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...keyword=impact

With my catback, i ended up bringing the car to an exhaust shop to have them torch the bolts off. I would rather learn how to do this myself so i do not have to run for help everytime a fastener is rusted on my 05 wagon.

Thanks.
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:25 PM   #36
veener79
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For the electronic torque wrenches there are new ones on there that are a stand alone wrench. I work for one of these tool manufactures. Our electronic had a digital read out in the handle. You can set your torque in what measurement you need. When you hit that spec it will beep and vibrate.

I am not sure if I can post up a link or not but I love my electronic torque wrenches. One of the first things I bought as an employee. I do not think I ever want to go back to a old style version.
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:02 PM   #37
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Nice faq. Are there any special tools required for dis-assembling and servicing subaru transmissions?
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:35 AM   #38
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Yes, lots. If you have to ask about tranny service, likely you are not the man to mess with it. There are two types of tranny people:

1. Those who do it with zero questions
2. Those who shouldn't

Install errors are the #1 cause of transmission explosions. You live 6 inches from www.andrewtechautomotive.com which is THE tranny shop probably on the east coast for Subarus. Talk to them.
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Old 01-20-2011, 10:04 PM   #39
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Thanks...

I asked because I was interested in getting an old tranny and learning on it for my own personal benefit. I'll just get the service manual and purchase the tools I need.
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Old 09-10-2011, 02:07 PM   #40
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Thought I would add that buying the proper tool for the job is always worth the money spent; you're just going to blow your entire weekend trying to make the wrong tool work, make yourself bleed several times, and finally get your wife drive you to Sears on Sunday afternoon to buy the right tool.
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:26 AM   #41
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For the record if anyone is looking for a local place to get a T70 bit, go to your nearest Advance Auto Parts. I actually work at one and I had walked in and asked my commercial manager where I can find a T70 bit, and as he was calling a tool truck to check on one I walked out to the gear wrench aisle and picked one up off the shelf. We were both rather surprised to find one in the store.
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Old 08-16-2014, 04:59 PM   #42
ejlevy
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Question subaru.spx.com gone?

Just thought I'd mention that the subaru.spx.com site seems to be down or no longer available. When I visit the main SPX site at www.spx.com, it doesn't seem to have anything related to automotive OEM specialty tools. Does anyone know where we can get the Subaru special tools anymore - other than the dealer? The last time I saw that the site was up was about a year and a half ago.

Also, in case any one needs ST 499497000 (T40 PLUS) to remove the camshaft cap on the EJ25 engine (at least on my '02) WIHA has a full set of Torx PLUS drivers from IP9 - IP40 for ~ $53. If I remember right, this was a lot cheaper than SPX wanted for just the T40 PLUS. But it's been a while. (Check here if you need them, and scroll down to SKU 71698.)

Thanks.

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Old 08-07-2022, 11:49 PM   #43
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Great list, could I request an add? A good 10mm allen impact socket for cam bolts.
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