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Old 11-13-2020, 10:51 AM   #51
Jp925
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Originally Posted by supermarkus View Post
Hmmm. My Aisin kit came with a little note to bleed the tensioner. NTN are pretty much all I've used and I'm on my second Aisin kit on this car.
How long ago was this?

It seems like the NTN is the same tensioner included in almost all the kits. Gates, Aisin, roger Clark etc. reading through this thread and scouring the internet it seems bleeding the tensioner is not common practice. Can anyone shed light on that?
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Old 11-15-2020, 01:56 PM   #52
NighthawkSTI
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Originally Posted by Jp925 View Post
How long ago was this?

It seems like the NTN is the same tensioner included in almost all the kits. Gates, Aisin, roger Clark etc. reading through this thread and scouring the internet it seems bleeding the tensioner is not common practice. Can anyone shed light on that?
It is the correct procedure bleed the tensioner before installing the tensioner, regardless of who manufactured it. It is easy to do and insures it applies proper tension on the belt. Shouldnt just be bolted on without bleeding it..
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Old 11-15-2020, 03:18 PM   #53
CaptainSlowbaru
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Originally Posted by LLuis199 View Post
...should I just go with OEM?
In short, YES.

I've worked at two Subaru dealers, and at both dealers we replaced the timing belt and the tensioner ONLY- nothing more. The only exception is the small pulley on turbo engines (the one with the 12mm bolt, mounted between the tensioner and the bank 2 intake cam sprocket).

The failure rate of water pumps is extremely low. Installing an aftermarket pump may actually increase the chance of failure.

OE tensioners do not need to be bled.
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Old 11-15-2020, 05:01 PM   #54
NighthawkSTI
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Originally Posted by CaptainSlowbaru View Post
In short, YES.

I've worked at two Subaru dealers, and at both dealers we replaced the timing belt and the tensioner ONLY- nothing more. The only exception is the small pulley on turbo engines (the one with the 12mm bolt, mounted between the tensioner and the bank 2 intake cam sprocket).

The failure rate of water pumps is extremely low. Installing an aftermarket pump may actually increase the chance of failure.

OE tensioners do not need to be bled.
Agree on the water pumps, they will last well over 150,000 miles, I didnt change mine when I did the belt. I Disagree on changing ONLY the tensioner and the belt though as the OE belt itself will last longer than the recomended change interval. Its the bearings in the belt rollers that will wear and seize before a belt will just snap on its own. Mine looked brand new at 87,000 miles but all of the rollers had some wear when I spun them relative to the new parts. The tensioner was also fine but I still replaced it with an OEM new part.

Maybe the dealer books say not to bleed the new tensioners on install, but I wouldnt dare skip that step given the potential of a belt skipping after doing that job and then whacking some valves. Its literally a 5 min. procedure. I'd consider it critical.
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Old 11-15-2020, 11:56 PM   #55
supermarkus
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Originally Posted by Jp925 View Post
How long ago was this?

It seems like the NTN is the same tensioner included in almost all the kits. Gates, Aisin, roger Clark etc. reading through this thread and scouring the internet it seems bleeding the tensioner is not common practice. Can anyone shed light on that?
My last Aisin kit was about a year ago because I botched the previous one; improper clearance for the passenger side belt guide killed my belt. I didn't bleed the tensioner that time. The shop I had do the second kit last year bled the tensioner.
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Old 11-16-2020, 04:00 PM   #56
NighthawkSTI
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My last Aisin kit was about a year ago because I botched the previous one; improper clearance for the passenger side belt guide killed my belt. I didn't bleed the tensioner that time. The shop I had do the second kit last year bled the tensioner.
Have to be careful when clearancing the belt guides, it can be the right distance in the middle but touching on one or both ends, the correct clearance when spaced with a gauge can also close up when the bolts are tightened.

Its also tricky to to the ones on the sides of the cover with the engine installed since you cant really get a straight on sight line on them. I had pulled my engine to do my clutch when I did the timing belt so access was a breeze..yet it was still tricky to get the spec exactly right. Needless to say none of the guides should touch the belt when its rotating. I used a feeler gauge to get the spec correct.
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