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Old 03-10-2022, 07:09 PM   #26
DrTrae
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So cool, I'll be doing the same stuff soon! Keep at it, can't wait to see your progress!
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Old 03-23-2022, 01:45 PM   #27
500_19B
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Over the weekend I removed the fuel tank and EVAP paraphernalia. With the suspension, rear differential and subframe already removed, it was a good opportunity to inspect all the fuel lines and make sure everything was in good shape there. Here is some of the EVAP hardware... this is probably the grungiest part of the whole car. I will go through and refresh it all...



Also have disassembled all the drive axles to clean and put back together with fresh grease and new boots. All the old boots were still intact, so everything inside was clean. The color of the grease in the joints was surprising to me, as I am used to a more black-hued grease in the German cars I have messed with in the past. However, the joints all looked to be in great condition inside.





I removed the old bushings from the lateral links and differential supports (the transverse cross member and the rear mount). The only ones that were hard were the diff cross member ones. The flange on the bushing sleeve eliminates the possibility of using a press to remove, so more "brute-force" style approaches were needed.

I ended up using a hole saw to remove most of the center (rubber) portion:



Then I used a hacksaw to cut some grooves in the sleeve, being careful not to saw all the way through to the cross member itself.



It was then possible to chisel out a strip. Took a surprising amount of time to get these puppies out.



In between all of that, I have been painting batches of parts as I get them prepped. Here is the rear subframe, now coated with an activated urethane primer, base and three layers of 2K clear for long term durability. This, as well as all the other underbody parts, will also be coated in cosmoline when it goes back together. Cosmoline will detract from the beauty, but it does an amazing job at environmental protection.



A few other parts...


Last edited by 500_19B; 01-26-2023 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 03-28-2022, 10:54 AM   #28
500_19B
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We had another snap of cold weather this weekend, which limited what I accomplished in the garage. I did the last dregs of fuel system disassembly, which was basically the fuel filler. I remember replacing this on our Corolla where it was heavily rotted, so I was pretty happy with the condition of this one. Totally solid with only some surface corrosion at the fastening points. It should be easy to restore this just cleaning off the corrosion and painting with the usual 2K epoxy primer and topcoats.



Less terrific looking is the fuel tank. When I got it into the daylight, I could see that the hardware on the top of the tank showed a lot of corrosion. I was really worried about the myriad of M5 nuts***8230; I soaked everything in penetrant (after the photos) and then was able to start attempting removal.



Happily, all but three unscrewed fine. The three that didn't were from the four that hold down the sheet metal cover piece at the top of the tank, so they were the least critical.

Still, a bit frustrating, but a lot less bad than it could have been. For those three broken studs, I will use stainless steel studs with bases configured for use with high strength acrylic adhesive. That will be plenty strong for a small M5, which is just holding a sheet metal cover in place. Normally I would prefer to weld on a stud, but I am just too scared to weld to a fuel tank, even after researching all the techniques for doing it safely.

This is the type of stud I am describing:



My plan for the tank is to disassemble everything, clean and remove any corrosion and then apply an activated seam sealer to the exterior seam (which will be exposed after the cleaning). Then I will go through the usual painting regimen. After that, it will all go back together with new rubber and new clamps and whatever I decide should be replaced upon inspection (e.g., fuel pump etc.)

While this has been going on, I have also been steadily working my way through parts to be painted (at the warehouse where I work).









I am looking forward to the stage where I am finally putting things together instead of taking them apart!

Last edited by 500_19B; 01-26-2023 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 03-28-2022, 01:09 PM   #29
DrTrae
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 500_19B View Post
I am looking forward to the stage where I am finally putting things together instead of taking them apart!
So much this... I can't wait till I'm at the stage that you're at! Actually painting stuff, instead of just thinking about it. Parts are looking great, here's to hoping for warm weather!
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Old 04-01-2022, 11:52 AM   #30
500_19B
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With all the fuel tank, filler and EVAP paraphernalia out of the car, it is time to clean and prep everything, and figure out what must be replaced.

I have most of the hoses removed from the tank now, just the fuel pump, level sensor etc. remain. Before I remove those, I am doing the rough cleaning of the fuel tank. Starting with removing the corrosion. The corrosion is mostly around the edges. Happily, it is very shallow so it is stripping off quickly. I am maybe halfway done that stage. Next, I will prep the rest of the tank and than apply an activated 3M sealer around the seam and then the tank itself will be ready for top coats. Still deciding on what I want to do for that.

I will have to really examine the fuel pump hanger. it is pretty rusty on the top side, but after cleaning away some of the corrosion, it looks like it is quite savable. So, I am pondering what to do there. I am strongly leaning towards replacing the pump itself, just based on mileage. But the hanger and rest of the fuel pump assembly adds a lot of cost. If anyone has an old fuel pump which is less rusty, please PM me, I'd be interested.

Here is the tank with the hoses removed and the cleaning started:



The main corrosion on the edges is actually very shallow:



The tank straps are actually in great shape. I will clean and paint them anyway.



The wiring harness looks fine, and the hard lines are in good shape, but I will be replacing all the flexible hose and those hose clamps.



This weekend, weather permitting, I will spend some time cleaning and prepping the underside of the car where the tank and differential goes.
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Old 04-02-2022, 05:56 PM   #31
REX_WGN
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nice work!

what exactly did you spray the undercarriage with annually? The parts look fantastic for a Canadian car.
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Old 04-03-2022, 10:58 AM   #32
500_19B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REX_WGN View Post
nice work!

what exactly did you spray the undercarriage with annually? The parts look fantastic for a Canadian car.
Thanks!

My ideas for winter protection have evolved over time. At first, the car had a dealer-applied tar-like undercoating, that turns out was not that thoroughly applied. The bigger issue is it dries out. I eventually started spraying the car annually, first at a local shop, than on my own. In both cases, the product I used was a liquid branded as Corrosion Free, which is well-known in Canada. It is similar to Rust Check and Fluid Film. All of which remain "wet" which has pros and cons. Pros is it will creep very well and can be washed off without too much labor. Cons is that the ease of washing off does mean that the more exposed areas of the undercarriage will probably lose some protection by the end of the winter.

This is the website for Corrosion Free:

https://corrosionfree.com/

On the new STI, I am taking a modified approach. I am using Cosmoline on all the outer surfaces and then spraying the Corrosion Free inside all of the inner voids (e.g. rockers). The liquid is great on inner areas, as it will creep in between spot weld seams etc. The Cosmoline is really good on outer surfaces as it dries to a tough, waxy film, that picks up less dirt and does not wash off. I've used Cosmoline on various new parts and it is amazing. It does creep somewhat, but only until it "sets up".

Here is a great thread with documentation photos over several seasons of someone who used Cosmoline on a Tacoma here in Canada:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...oating.651180/

Cosmoline is best applied when the vehicle is brand new (i.e. totally clean underneath). This is what I did with my STI... I worked over several days to do the whole car, as I removed bumpercovers, fender liners etc. to get at everything. Then, for the inner areas I used Corrosion Free with a pneumatic undercoating gun with a long, flexible wand.

The pros of Cosmoline (aside from the excellent protection) is that is does not pick up as much dirt, and you only need to touch up the application each year. The cons is that it take a lot of effort (with mineral spirits) to remove.

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/
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Old 04-03-2022, 11:45 AM   #33
KeithS05RS2.5
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Nice work so far. Very meticulous!
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Old 04-07-2022, 10:23 AM   #34
sohchx
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Woooooooooooooooooow!!! Now THIS is what I want to do to my 2002!! I am the OG owner and it is in pretty good shape all around, but has the typical ****ty factory clear fade and a cancer spot the size of a quarter on the rear drivers quarter. I would love to take something like this on but I'm to busy daily driving the damn thing to pull it off of the road. It's got 368K on it currently and climbing every day. I too am also a Porschephile and have an 04 996

Last edited by sohchx; 04-07-2022 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 04-14-2022, 01:48 AM   #35
500_19B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohchx View Post
Woooooooooooooooooow!!! Now THIS is what I want to do to my 2002!! I am the OG owner and it is in pretty good shape all around, but has the typical ****ty factory clear fade and a cancer spot the size of a quarter on the rear drivers quarter. I would love to take something like this on but I'm to busy daily driving the damn thing to pull it off of the road. It's got 368K on it currently and climbing every day. I too am also a Porschephile and have an 04 996

Wow, 368K is great! Also, I love the 996... they are just starting to get the respect they deserve, and I really like the low weight and very smooth lines.

Things at work have been busy, so my progress has been slow, but a few things are still happening. Most of the work has been around the fuel tank. As seen in the earlier posts, once I got it out of the car I could really see where some TLC was warranted. The top of the tank where the fuel pump hanger, sender, vent and roll-over values looked pretty rough. There was corrosion present in various areas and a lot of the hardware (e.g., hose clamps) was pretty ratty. However, the tank still is solid and when I took the fuel pump and sender out, the inside of tank looked perfect.

I've decided to put in an new pump and hanger but first I needed to finish getting the tank ready.

Aside from the corrosion and coating issues, I had also broken three of the M5 studs on the top of the tank. Fortunately they were just the ones that hold the sheet metal cover at the center-top. In this photo I have circled the three studs that I later broke:



As I mentioned earlier, I am really hesitant to do any welding or grinding on a fuel tank. If you fill the tank with water, it should be safe, but you really have to make sure you don't have air pockets, and this tank is not the most simple shape.

With all that in mind, I got these M5 stainless steel studs designed for use with acrylic or similar adhesive. since it is only a sheet metal cover, this should be plenty strong.



Not wanting to use a grinder to remove the stubs of the broken studs, I used a hacksaw to cut off the stub as well as the flared base of the layer of sheet metal that captures the stud to the tank.



This is what was left afterwards.



I used an SEM two-part panel adhesive I had on hand.



Here are the studs bonded on. The adhesive does not self-level, so it looks not so smooth, but the functional result is good. The studs ended up in the right spot, are vertical, and it seems to be very strong.



Next step was to use a 3M two-part seam sealer all around the mating seam of the tank, as well as all the areas where I exposed bare metal during the corrosion removal. This is a heavy body seam sealer, so it too did not produce the smoothest result. Not great, not terrible (channeling the Anatoly Dyatlov character from Chernobyl...)



After that, I applied a rubberized rocker coating. The tank is starting to look good. The last step will be 2K satin clear top-coat and then I can start putting parts back on...




Last edited by 500_19B; 01-26-2023 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 04-14-2022, 11:08 AM   #36
DrTrae
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Looks amazing!
Going to be dropping my tank soon, and probably directly copying what you did. Lol
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Old 04-16-2022, 10:07 AM   #37
500_19B
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2002 WRX, 2023 Crosstrek

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A little job finished in between things on Good Friday:

Both side axle seals on the rear differential were replaced. At the same time, I took the back cover off to properly clean things and put a new gasket in, just as a "while you're in there" kind of thing...

I will put a new breather on before putting it back in the car, but otherwise at least one little thing is ready to go back on!



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Old 04-20-2022, 08:44 PM   #38
500_19B
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Minor setback with the fuel tank: The factory coating and the spray-on rockerguard I used did not combine well. It looked good, but the surface of the rocker guard never set up completely (aside from where it covered the seam sealer). As a result, the surface retained a slightly tacky feel. Maybe an activated (2-component) product would have worked. Although I am getting some SEM 2K rockerguard for the fender wells etc., I thought a simple spray-n-go product would be fine for the fuel tank, as the factory coating was intact outside of the seams (which now have the 2K seam sealer). Conclusion: WRONG.

I pondered attempting to apply a 2K clear over the mess to see what that would do, but the surface is too sticky to get a clean scuff. I did not want the risk of it all starting to peel later, so there was only one choice left. I have been mechanically stripping the coating off the tank and will “do it right” starting with epoxy primer, SEM 2K stoneguard and then 2K topcoats. It is a long-ish process which I have been doing bit-by-bit during my lunch hours this week. I am almost there:



While I am stripping the tank, I have also been prepping the next batch of parts to be painted. As many parts as I have already painted, there are still a lot to do. I have a punch list for tracking the various prep and paint stages for each part, so I keep track. As of now, the punch list has 41 parts still to do (and I might still find a few more). Here are a bunch of those part way through the prep work:



Of course, some of these parts are significant (e.g., the transmission support members):



And others are pretty dinky… This is the little bracket that supports one of the small hoses above the back of the fuel pump hanger:



Speaking of fuel pump hangers, I ended up getting a new complete pump assembly. I did want to replace the pump itself, just as a proactive age-related item, but the top of the hanger was atrophied, so I just bit the bullet, probably unnecessary, but that pretty much is true of 90% of the crap I do…



Another proactive maintenance upgrade is replacing the radiator. It seems to generally be accepted that as the standard plastic/aluminum stock radiator ages, it can fail with increasing likelihood. So I picked up a new Koyorad unit from Rallysportdirect and I love the fit and finish, a very well-done part:



Very minor detail, but I appreciate that they thread in new hardware in the various threaded bosses:

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Old 04-21-2022, 07:22 AM   #39
JDMJNKY
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Man this is some great work. Keep it up sir, loving this thread.
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Old 04-21-2022, 08:44 AM   #40
DrTrae
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Java Black Pearl

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Dang, that sucks to hear about the fuel tank.. I'm sure you'll get it handled though.
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Old 04-22-2022, 12:21 AM   #41
nosdodnai
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You're doing some great work here, very inspirational.
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Old 04-24-2022, 09:51 AM   #42
former02wrx
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Awesome job - makes me wish I still had my bugeye.
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Old 04-25-2022, 07:43 PM   #43
500_19B
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2002 WRX, 2023 Crosstrek

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Thank you all for the supportive comments!

These projects sometimes feel like they will never conclude, but I managed a little more progress.

So I finished the stripping the fuel tank and have now re-done the coatings. I started with a 2K epoxy primer, than a 3M stoneguard, black base coat and then a 2K satin clear.

Here is the tank part way through the application of the black base over the beige 3M stoneguard:



And here is the tank coating all done. Looks pretty similar to before, but now the coating is properly cured and actually looks a little more uniform:





I was very busy with other things during the weekend, but on Sunday from around lunchtime to 8 pm I went on a painting binge and plowed through 26 parts, all with the usual 2k epoxy primer and top coats regime. Here are the parts after painting where I suspended them off of some equipment at work (where I went to do the painting):



Really happy with how the satin clear works for these mostly underbody parts...



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Old 04-26-2022, 02:11 AM   #44
Rywhiskey
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Wow looks amazing. Love it
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Old 04-26-2022, 10:10 AM   #45
DrTrae
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Java Black Pearl

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Seriously awesome job. Getting closer and closer!
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Old 04-26-2022, 10:40 AM   #46
Shik
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Such a wonderful thread!

If you happen to frequent facebook, there is a "Subaru OEM Plus and Restorations" group that appreciate this stuff to the nth degree.

Looking forward to more updates!
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Old 05-02-2022, 08:14 AM   #47
500_19B
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This past weekend I spent a ton of time lying on the concrete floor working on the prep of the underbody. I am not done yet, but this is how things look right now:



This is an exceedingly messy job. I need to wear a full respirator and goggles, as bits of old dirt etc. fly all over. Now on Monday morning, the skin around my shoulder blades is a little tender from spending so much time pressed against the concrete and my neck muscles are a little sore as I had to keep my head off the ground most of the time to see what I was doing.

Aside from the surface prep, I have two broken bolts and one weld-on nut to deal with. Once that is done, the next step will be to seal everything off with several coats of epoxy primer. Since it is the underside and wheel wells (which obviously have a lot of surface texture anyway), I am going to use a small roller and a brush for the tight areas, which is a lot easier than spraying when working in tight confines.

If things go amazingly well, I might get to this stage (i.e., epoxy primer) by the end of next weekend, but I am not counting on it. After the epoxy primer is cured, I will put new stoneguard on. For the wheel wells, I am going to use the SEM 2K product and for the underside I will use 3M 08889. The reason for this is that the SEM must be applied with an HVLP or Schutz gun (I will use a small HVLP), which will be fine for the wheel wells, but too difficult for the underside due to the tight space. The 3M product is quite tough (I've used it on several projects in the past, most recently the fuel tank), but it is not 2K. The wheel wells are the most exposed, so I want the 2K product there, but the 3M should be great elsewhere. After that, I will finish up with 2K base/clear everywhere, in black. Likely will roll the clear on too.

Aside from that pretty unpleasant job, I've been getting through the parts painting backlog. I finished the big U-shaped front sub-frame (not pictured) as well as the bumper beams and sway bars:





At the front, I will be using a JDM bumper beam, which is much lighter (good) but also would not provide as much protection for the AC condenser and radiator (less good). The only reason I am going with the JDM is because that is what I could find (the original was quite bent in the middle).




Last edited by 500_19B; 01-26-2023 at 01:55 PM. Reason: typo!
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Old 05-02-2022, 10:13 AM   #48
trueno92
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Hello! great to see another torontonian keeping NASIOC alive!

I have a good condition front bar you can have, its a spare i collected over the years.

I am a bugeye owner since 2005. 2nd owner car

reply back!
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Old 05-04-2022, 09:44 AM   #49
500_19B
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Hey, thanks, not so many bugeyes still trundling around in the great white north! Replied back in PMs., take care!
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Old 06-09-2022, 07:30 AM   #50
500_19B
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I had a lot of other things crowd into life in the past month, and I have not been able to get on forums, work on the car much, etc.

However, things have eased a little and I was finally able to get back at it and make some real progress.

It turns out that my mission to "dress up" the underside and wheel wells was WAAAY more work than I ever thought.

The main issue for me was that I had sprayed a lot of stuff over the year that included first Corrosion Free, and then Cosmoline on the underside (having learnt from that experience, I would now only use Cosmoline for the application, which would also mean a lot less accumulated mess over the years). Compounding that, I had also applied some so-so single stage paint on various parts of the underside early on in my ownership of the car.

Bottom line, I had a lot of "crap" that needed to be removed to be able to get a decent baseline from which I could prep.

I also had to fix an internal welded nut for one of the differential outrigger mounting points. This photo shows the steel angle I used to position and align the repair piece prior to welding. It also shows the state of the underbody prep, which was still in process at that time***8230; Yeah, looks like a real mess.



With the mounting piece repaired, I eventually finished cleaning and prepping (I can't exaggerate what a terrible, dirty job that ended up being). So finally I was ready to make it look decent again. I ended up applying a base of 2K epoxy primer over everything to start. For the fender wells, I applied a 2K stone guard made by SEM.

https://www.semproducts.com/product/...ip-guard/52000

The normal color of the SEM product is light grey, but you can add base coat as a tint, which I did, tinting it black, which was going to the top coat color. For the actual underside (e.g., floor pan etc.) I used 3M 08889, which is a non-activated product, but one that I have some experience with and I like it, plus it was easy to use in the lower spots where I was flat on my back. The original PVC was mostly still in good shape, so the 08889 was more of a touch-up/blend/even-out texture sort of step.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071593/

After all that, the next step was a black base coat and then 2K satin clear top coats (2).
I am happy with the result, and it looks approximately 51,863,792.3 times better than before.










Last edited by 500_19B; 01-26-2023 at 02:38 PM.
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