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Old 06-20-2021, 06:59 PM   #51
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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EDIT: Check Post #50 as it's also part of this update!

Adding a couple more images, one someone got at a car show of my manifold that might get a little pixelized. The other 2 are my engine bay after finishing the wiring and fuel system upgrade, but before I finished the feed and return routing in the bay so they stick out like a sore thumb. Enjoy!








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Old 06-20-2021, 07:13 PM   #52
murrdogg24
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very nice bugeye sir
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Old 06-20-2021, 09:20 PM   #53
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looks great... should be an interesting beast when you get the new motor in and going.. Any Goals for HP?? or it is what it is???

Bill
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:08 PM   #54
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
very nice bugeye sir

Thank you sir! A lot of blood sweat and not so many tears to be honest hahaha.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby South View Post
looks great... should be an interesting beast when you get the new motor in and going.. Any Goals for HP?? or it is what it is???

Bill



Thanks a lot Bill! With the s363sxe it should max easily, so 750-800ish on that. For drag I may grab an s372sxe and go for a 5 second 1/8 mile just to say I did it then stop hahaha. Maybe a pipe dream, maybe not, just looking to have fun!



Also may be moving the turbo to headlight mount and twinscroll over winter and grabbing an even bigger fmic with alphaloc couplers *wink wink*
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Old 06-28-2021, 06:35 PM   #55
basyager
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Very nice bugeye indeed. I could not afford/justify dailying something like this, unless your commute is though a finland forest or something... roads are so congested and gas is getting more expensive. $1.35 for a liter of regular in Canada now. It was 60 cents during 2020 covid time. a car like this is like a toy you have when you are settled down and got a big garage+money to play.

Last edited by basyager; 06-28-2021 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 06-29-2021, 09:39 AM   #56
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Originally Posted by basyager View Post
Very nice bugeye indeed. I could not afford/justify dailying something like this, unless your commute is though a finland forest or something... roads are so congested and gas is getting more expensive. $1.35 for a liter of regular in Canada now. It was 60 cents during 2020 covid time. a car like this is like a toy you have when you are settled down and got a big garage+money to play.
Gracias sir, I see where you're coming from but in my area E85 is $2.49 - $2.59 a gallon and the car is so fun to drive. It's tame when it needs to be and rowdy when I want it to be! It's also incredibly comfortable to drive, only thing I'm missing is AC but it rides as nice as my legacy wagon hahaha.

Another plus is I work from home, and when I wanna take a nice drive the roads I drive out of the city are not congested so it's worked out pretty well so far. Even in stop and go traffic though, never had issues
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Old 08-24-2021, 09:11 PM   #57
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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So I got my engine machined, rotating assembly balanced, and found that my crank was bent from the factory. The seller gave me the run around and since it had been so long since buying the crank, I got f'd and didn't get my money back. I had my friend place an order directly with Subaru as he works at the dealer and I got the crank in 3 days for even lower than anywhere I can find on the internet.



After receiving the crank I was finally all set to blueprint and measure out my block and then begin assembly! I will make all of my measurements public because I performed the work and will take the blame when or if my own engine fails


Parts that matter:
- RevWorks RW1200 Short block w/ Closed Deck
- 6mm Pinned Mains
- IAG Fire Lock Head Gaskets
- OEM STi Nitrated Crank
- Manley Turbo Tuff Tri Beam Rods
- Manley Turbo Tuff Extreme Duty Pistons 9.8:1 CR 100MM
- ACL Race Rod and Main Bearings
- RCM 14MM Superstud Head Studs
- RCM Billet Block Blanking Kit
- RCM Modified and Ported 11mm Oil Pump
- RCM HKS Timing Kit



Clearances:


Piston To Wall: .0035" spec'd for high boost and high heat + e85. Manley recommends .0035" for high boost so we kept it that way.

Ring Gap: .0030" spec'd for high boost and high heat + e85. Manley recommends around .00295" for 35+psi so I went a little wider for even more boost + e85
Rod Bearings: .0020"-.0025" Manley specs .002-.003" so I kept it within that range with STDX bearings.

Main Bearings: #1: .0019" #2: .0020" #3: .0019" #4: .0020" #5: .0019". I went slightly larger than factory limit due to 9500rpm rev limit and high heat due to track racing. #1 #2 and #5 have 2 STDX shells, #3 and #4 have 1 STDX shell and 1 .025" shell each. I went STDX off the rip due to being line honed with pinned mains and this worked out well. 11mm oil pump should also help out here being ported and modified!


All that's left is waiting on IAG to finish my heads, get those back, have my local shop valve job and deck them, and then I can assemble and get the long block all together! It feels surreal having measured and built my own engine, we will see how it lasts over the coming months or years.


One thing I wanted to add: A block with IAG Fire Lock Ring grooves cut into it is a pain in the dick to get the pistons into. With a Company 23 tapered piston ring compressor we still kept popping the oil ring out of the bottom as it went in to the cylinder which would then catch the Fire Lock Ring groove lip and hold the piston up, which we were NOT trying to bend so we were gentle. After this, my brother modified the Company 23 tool to have a bevel around the bottom so it could seal to the Cylinder properly, and this resulted in every piston going in like butter. I've included a picture of how we had to modify this.




4 measly pictures:













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Old 08-24-2021, 10:38 PM   #58
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i love older wrx builds , keep it up man
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Old 09-07-2021, 06:55 PM   #59
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Got my heads back from IAG, they hit me with a free decking of the heads too after completing a 2.5 chamber match, drilling for 14mm head studs, welding and time serting a valve cover hole, replacing my old valve guides with some GSCs, and giving the head a nice cleaning! Took the liberty to order the rest of my parts to finish my long block and also took my heads in to the machine shop for a valve job! After that it's time for full assembly! I also test fit my BC280s, test fit the heads on my block, and may or may not have ordered my new turbo To help my machine shop out, I put all the valve seals on and got the valves situated in their homes. Forgot to get pics of that but I'll grab pics once valve job is done!

Here's a pic of the head on the block:

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Old 09-20-2021, 08:25 PM   #60
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Heads are back from the machine shop tomorrow, if I grab them I'll likely take them to the shop and get them assembled to check valve lash and get buckets ordered! Also got my new turbo in, 'tis a dual ball bearing s369sxe that I am testing out to see how it does/flows. Gonna take my s363sxe and rebuild it. Maybe I'll use that for track racing in twin scroll form on medium sized tracks, then for small tracks I can get an s252sxe or s257sxe. We'll see when the time comes, much testing to be done and much fun to be had.

I'm hoping snow holds off until early November, then I can get the engine running and some serious break-in miles put on it. For anyone curious about break-in or the oil i'll be running, I will be running VR1 10w30 for initial cam break-in and up to 500 miles it'll be on wastegate pressure of 11-12psi. After that I'll be introducing more boost! Also looking to make the switch to a Haltech IC-7 Dash and Mako Motorsports Cluster. If anyone would like a mint v7 Prodrive UK gauge cluster let me know
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Old 10-14-2021, 03:50 PM   #61
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Welp, heads are assembled and I've gotten to work getting it all dressed up. Old engine has been torn down and is ready for removal from my car, just need to free up the hoist. First start should be tomorrow night or Saturday, might get some video of it! Engine spins smoothly and makes what feels like amazing compression at this point so fingers crossed all goes well! Also, don't mind the LS1 water outlet housing, we're doing some testing that we thought would be funny

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Old 10-19-2021, 01:50 PM   #62
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Spent 30 hours over 3 days getting it running, car fired first try on e57 in 50 degree weather on Sunday night. 95psi oil pressure, cams loping, things were great.

Monday Night: Put the radiator and cooling system together and fired car, just gotta work on getting idle smoothed out as it surges up and down with my quickly thrown together basemap. Same issue as my JDM 205 had on first start up, warms up quickly and then gets to about 220F and boils out of the funnel. I have an EJ22 water pump on it for the single port (realizing I should've used the 2.5i single port water pump and front mounted housing) and pretty sure I put the jiggle pin in the wrong spot so air is just trapped, or like the JDM 205 the thermostat is somehow toast again. I was able to get a good 3 mins of cam break-in done before it started boiling the water so I'll take care of finishing that once the cooling is sorted. There's no bubbling before it starts to boil so no, it's not head gaskets lmao. Which would likely be difficult with fire lock rings on a first fire I'd say!

So next steps are:
- Fix Cooling system shenanigans
- Cam Break-In
- Throw in R35 GTR Coil Pack Conversion
- Tune Idle
- 50 Mile Break-in drive then dump oil.

Also quick note: This engine is buttery smooth, revs smoothly and makes almost 0 noise on cold start. There is the tiniest hint of piston slap but other than that the heads and block are exceptionally quiet and this sounds MUCH better than my stock JDM 205 did. Not to toot my own horn yet, but so far everything looks good.

Another note about oil pressure:
95psi on a cold start
65-70psi at 2krpm during cam break-in at warm temp
40psi at 1100rpm at warm temp

I'll be keeping an eye on oil pressure and if it for some reason gets worrying I'll throw 20w-50 in after 50 miles instead.
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Old 10-19-2021, 06:45 PM   #63
Scooby South
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Awesome stuff.... Curious to what you gapped your rings to??? When my RA Block goes in, I want to re-gap my rings to .0028 so when they swell..I can take care of my ringlands.

Bill


EDIT: Never mind.. I found your post of all your tolerances... :P
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Old 10-19-2021, 06:48 PM   #64
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Originally Posted by Scooby South View Post
Awesome stuff.... Curious to what you gapped your rings to??? When my RA Block goes in, I want to re-gap my rings to .0028 so when they swell..I can take care of my ringlands.

Bill
Hey Bill!! I actually put that info in at I think post #52 but here are all of my clearances with my buckets added:


Clearances:


Piston To Wall: .0035" spec'd for high boost and high heat + e85. Manley recommends .0035" for high boost so we kept it that way.


Ring Gap: .0030" spec'd for high boost and high heat + e85. Manley recommends around .00295" for 35+psi so I went a little wider for even
more boost + e85


Rod Bearings: .0020"-.0025" Manley specs .002-.003" so I kept it within that range with STDX bearings.


Main Bearings: #1: .0019" #2: .0020" #3: .0019" #4: .0020" #5: .0019". I went slightly larger than factory limit due to 9500rpm rev limit and high heat due to track racing. #1 #2 and #5 have 2 STDX shells, #3 and #4 have 1 STDX shell and 1 .025" shell each. I went STDX off the rip due to being line honed with pinned mains and this worked out well. 11mm oil pump should also help out here being ported and modified!

Buckets: 7/8 Intake Buckets are at .008" and 1 is at .009" without issue thus far
5/8 Exhaust Buckets are at .010" 2 are .011" and 1 is about .013" which is not worrying at all considering factory spec is .010-.014"
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Old 10-19-2021, 06:51 PM   #65
Scooby South
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***^^^^^***

Got it...
Thank you for reposting

Bill
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Old 10-20-2021, 05:01 PM   #66
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby South View Post
***^^^^^***

Got it...
Thank you for reposting

Bill
No problem!! I have a video of first start from my buddy, is youtube the only place we can embed videos from? Haven't tried in a while
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Old 10-23-2021, 06:55 PM   #67
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Does anyone know if for the Comp Triple Disc Kit the Comp Slave Cylinder is required? It looks like the one I received with the used kit isn't the correct slave cylinder and is causing disengagement issues for the clutch, so I can't put the car into gear.

System has been bled, and we had to adjust the Master Cylinder rod pretty much fully clockwise to get the throw out bearing to start pressing the clutch. This is confirmed by the sound of the triple disc itself, for most of the adjustment we hear nothing from the clutch plates and then the last like 1/10-1/15 of the rod gives us clutch squeal like it should.


On a positive note, did some idle tuning and got the cams broken in. Bled the coolant system and with the cap on it started leaking from one of the brand new coolant crossover o-rings, so tried to tighten that down best as I can and it seems to have ceased. Dropped the 10w30 oil, new filter and this time put in some 20w-50 VR1. You'll hear why in a sec, as cam break-in really showed how thin the oil actually got.

10w30 Oil Pressures hot:
15-16psi @ 950rpm
35-40psi @ 2200-2300rpm
60psi @ 3000rpm

These are great numbers but they freaked me out going to 15-16psi at my low lumpy idle.

20w-50 Oil Pressures Hot:
30psi @ 850rpm
60psi @ 2200rpm
75psi @ 3000rpm

Success!
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Old 10-28-2021, 02:39 AM   #68
alexmartynyuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN View Post
Does anyone know if for the Comp Triple Disc Kit the Comp Slave Cylinder is required? It looks like the one I received with the used kit isn't the correct slave cylinder and is causing disengagement issues for the clutch, so I can't put the car into gear.

System has been bled, and we had to adjust the Master Cylinder rod pretty much fully clockwise to get the throw out bearing to start pressing the clutch. This is confirmed by the sound of the triple disc itself, for most of the adjustment we hear nothing from the clutch plates and then the last like 1/10-1/15 of the rod gives us clutch squeal like it should.


On a positive note, did some idle tuning and got the cams broken in. Bled the coolant system and with the cap on it started leaking from one of the brand new coolant crossover o-rings, so tried to tighten that down best as I can and it seems to have ceased. Dropped the 10w30 oil, new filter and this time put in some 20w-50 VR1. You'll hear why in a sec, as cam break-in really showed how thin the oil actually got.

10w30 Oil Pressures hot:
15-16psi @ 950rpm
35-40psi @ 2200-2300rpm
60psi @ 3000rpm

These are great numbers but they freaked me out going to 15-16psi at my low lumpy idle.

20w-50 Oil Pressures Hot:
30psi @ 850rpm
60psi @ 2200rpm
75psi @ 3000rpm

Success!
Keep us updated!
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Old 10-28-2021, 05:47 PM   #69
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmartynyuk View Post
Keep us updated!





Here's the update! Comp Clutch came in clutch (teehee) and their wonderful associate informed me that Comp Clutch uses SH6218 which is a Sachs slave cylinder for this kit. $30 total for it with 1 day shipping from Rock Auto, which was amazing.



Threw the new Slave on which was a pain in the ass at first to bleed without bench bleeding but eventually it started working properly. Made a comparison to the old slave: Rod is a different rod, but they're the same length so it was NOT my issue. The old slave was leaking slightly once we took the boot off but was still not the issue. New slave did not fix my issue, unfortunately.



Which got me thinking.... I was sent the used clutch kit assembled with the plates already inline. Well, I never checked the plates because I ASSUMED they were aligned properly (trans side facing trans side, engine side facing engine side, etc). Which means I'm a dumby for not checking this and I'm really kicking myself. Chances are the plates are not facing the proper way and this is why it's not fully disengaging. I was meticulous about everything OTHER than this, one of the most important parts of my build. I'm still kicking myself in the ass.


So, we're gonna drop my transmission once the lift opens and do **** the CORRECT WAY. Maybe I'll toss in a tubular trans subframe as well..... maybe a front tubular subframe and 2015+ sti rack as well?



We also fixed my coolant leak, I pulled my intake mani off because I remembered NOT tightening my coolant temp sensor after we sprayed the coolant crossover black, I just hand tightened a couple threads in. Turns out, with the angle of the crossover it does not drip down the block, but the coolant runs UNDER the coolant crossover and to the passenger side of it then starts to pool to the right of the passenger side of the coolant crossover. So that's fixed.



TL;DR: I suck, but it's cool cuz we're gonna get it fixed and we have all winter at this point.

EDIT: Also, here's a link to my insta of the car running and loping. The exhaust is so quiet at idle it's hard to tell unless I'm right up on the muffler tips lol. https://www.instagram.com/p/CVZHguSD...10zEhcD_iC-Q0/

Last edited by ARKTiKPENGUiN; 10-28-2021 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 10-28-2021, 09:58 PM   #70
alexmartynyuk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN View Post
Here's the update! Comp Clutch came in clutch (teehee) and their wonderful associate informed me that Comp Clutch uses SH6218 which is a Sachs slave cylinder for this kit. $30 total for it with 1 day shipping from Rock Auto, which was amazing.



Threw the new Slave on which was a pain in the ass at first to bleed without bench bleeding but eventually it started working properly. Made a comparison to the old slave: Rod is a different rod, but they're the same length so it was NOT my issue. The old slave was leaking slightly once we took the boot off but was still not the issue. New slave did not fix my issue, unfortunately.



Which got me thinking.... I was sent the used clutch kit assembled with the plates already inline. Well, I never checked the plates because I ASSUMED they were aligned properly (trans side facing trans side, engine side facing engine side, etc). Which means I'm a dumby for not checking this and I'm really kicking myself. Chances are the plates are not facing the proper way and this is why it's not fully disengaging. I was meticulous about everything OTHER than this, one of the most important parts of my build. I'm still kicking myself in the ass.


So, we're gonna drop my transmission once the lift opens and do **** the CORRECT WAY. Maybe I'll toss in a tubular trans subframe as well..... maybe a front tubular subframe and 2015+ sti rack as well?



We also fixed my coolant leak, I pulled my intake mani off because I remembered NOT tightening my coolant temp sensor after we sprayed the coolant crossover black, I just hand tightened a couple threads in. Turns out, with the angle of the crossover it does not drip down the block, but the coolant runs UNDER the coolant crossover and to the passenger side of it then starts to pool to the right of the passenger side of the coolant crossover. So that's fixed.



TL;DR: I suck, but it's cool cuz we're gonna get it fixed and we have all winter at this point.

EDIT: Also, here's a link to my insta of the car running and loping. The exhaust is so quiet at idle it's hard to tell unless I'm right up on the muffler tips lol. https://www.instagram.com/p/CVZHguSD...10zEhcD_iC-Q0/
Yup I talked to you through Instagram, my handle is boost_reality. Saw the video :-) looks like my machine shop just finished up with my block so hopefully soon I’ll start the assembly process.
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Old 11-09-2021, 04:50 PM   #71
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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86f Blue Steel Mica

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Originally Posted by alexmartynyuk View Post
Yup I talked to you through Instagram, my handle is boost_reality. Saw the video :-) looks like my machine shop just finished up with my block so hopefully soon I’ll start the assembly process.



What gasket/deck setup did you decide to go with? I know it's sleeved, just unsure if you went fire ring, o-ring, cooper ring, etc. I'll certainly let everyone know how my fire ring setup does that's for sure.
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Old 12-14-2021, 10:43 AM   #72
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Random update: TSSFAB holds their Black Friday sale every year and I decided to procure a tubular front subframe for my car that fits the 2015+ sti rack as well as the tubular trans subframe! I'm sure they'll be backed up for some time so I'm thinking late January I'll be getting the new subframes in with the new rack and I'll have pictures/updates at that point. I've had Covid for a couple weeks now and have been bed ridden but I've gotten some weight reduction done due to it, so not all negatives I suppose
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Old 12-14-2021, 10:53 AM   #73
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Link G4X flex tuned
02' EJ205 20G 6MT wagon

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN View Post
Random update: TSSFAB holds their Black Friday sale every year and I decided to procure a tubular front subframe for my car that fits the 2015+ sti rack as well as the tubular trans subframe! I'm sure they'll be backed up for some time so I'm thinking late January I'll be getting the new subframes in with the new rack and I'll have pictures/updates at that point. I've had Covid for a couple weeks now and have been bed ridden but I've gotten some weight reduction done due to it, so not all negatives I suppose
Hope you continue to feel okay.
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Old 12-14-2021, 11:20 AM   #74
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
Hope you continue to feel okay.



I appreciate the kind words, k3rm1t! Did you end up going with the Link G4X plug and play like I did in my car?! I love this ECU so much bahaha.
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Old 12-14-2021, 11:33 AM   #75
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN View Post
I appreciate the kind words, k3rm1t! Did you end up going with the Link G4X plug and play like I did in my car?! I love this ECU so much bahaha.
<---------- Yes it is currently being installed along with a 6MT and a 20GXT-R etc etc.

Do you tune yourself?

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 12-14-2021 at 11:40 AM.
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