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Old 02-12-2022, 05:16 PM   #101
xtremewlr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJSMITH View Post
Why bother with a hosting service you can just upload to Facebook and get the url for the image and plug it into the html code your provided when you click the little image icon on the tool bar above this box you compose your post in
Because F Facebook.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:56 PM   #102
RJSMITH
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pennellville,N.Y
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0219 Bug,bug,coup,va
mbp,sr,wrb

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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
Because F Facebook.
Woah show me on the doll where Facebook hurt you lol...
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Old 02-12-2022, 10:36 PM   #103
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Greater Seattle Area
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Link G4X flex tuned
02' EJ205 20G 6MT wagon

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C'mon dude it's 2022 - It's common knowledge that Facebook does immense amounts of social and political harm and is just a terrible website.

I want to give them as little of my data to mine as possible
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Old 02-12-2022, 10:50 PM   #104
RJSMITH
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mbp,sr,wrb

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Quote:
Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
C'mon dude it's 2022 - It's common knowledge that Facebook does immense amounts of social and political harm and is just a terrible website.

I want to give them as little of my data to mine as possible
If you have a phone, drive a car, use the internet, have a smart TV or pretty much anything they're mining your data. I don't think they're getting any valuable data from me buying car parts and liking pictures of cars on Facebook.

Ps sorry arktik about clogging your thread with junk
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Old 02-12-2022, 10:56 PM   #105
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Location: Greater Seattle Area
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Link G4X flex tuned
02' EJ205 20G 6MT wagon

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJSMITH View Post
If you have a phone, drive a car, use the internet, have a smart TV or pretty much anything they're mining your data. I don't think they're getting any valuable data from me buying car parts and liking pictures of cars on Facebook.

Ps sorry arktik about clogging your thread with junk
"they" is silly and doesn't mean anything. Different companies and entities have different levels of access to different data sets on you. The point the earlier guy was making was just that FB sucks overall and is irresponsible and giving them any more data, be it deemed relevant by your or not, isn't ideal when image hosting alternatives exist.

Point is - NASIOC Img needs to come back ASAP.
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Old 02-13-2022, 05:51 PM   #106
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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86f Blue Steel Mica

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No worries boys, I prefer to also not use FB. IMGUR was very easy for me to use, so when they made the switch to enforced NASIOC image hosting I was like eh. It's a good idea and helps keep my stuff organized, so it's cool to me.

I got my engine harness fully stripped out and depinned TGV sensors, knock sensor, purge valve, stock oil sender wiring, and figured out routing of it cleanly so I can get it all wrapped back up. Should look pretty sweet once finished! Good news is our lift is now open since our buddies racecar has been finished, so I'll be getting my car ready for the season shortly!
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Old 04-11-2022, 10:07 AM   #107
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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86f Blue Steel Mica

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I'd post some pictures but NASIOC's image hosting keeps throwing an internal server error anytime I try to upload. Amazing stuff lol.

Anyways, I finally got my car on the lift to try and speedrun getting my old subframe out and new subframe in. Wishful thinking, though.

Getting the old subframe out was pretty easy, I pulled the AN lines for my rack and drained the PS system, dropped the rack, unbolted the control arms at the subframe and rear bushing, and got the old subframe out pretty easily!

I got a couple goodies, mainly the part that I was waiting on for months which is the Mooresport 2015+ STI Rack Hardline Adapter. Bolted that up to the rack, and also used a -6an to -8an adapter fitting for the return side, as the Chase Bays kit I have is all -6an. I also got Whiteline's RCCK kit, which I'm glad I finally invested in. Finally, I got some Nardo Grey paint for the Front and Trans subframes to protect them a little better from the elements. We also cleaned up the sway bar bushing brackets and painted those black, so everything looks awesome now.

So after painting the subframes, I got the new subframe bolted in. Note: TSSFAB includes new bolts for the GD that go through the top of the frame rail. I wish I could've gotten these installed now, but the screws for the little brackets holding these are cooked and strip out when I try to get to them. I was in a time crunch, so I didn't bother drilling them out at this point. I will go back and take care of this at a later date.

I got the rack mounted up, centered it and got the steering linkage on. I then got the front control arm bushings lined up and bolted in..... then experienced an hour and a half of pain trying to get the back 2 bolts lined up with the bushing. I had to pry on the front bushings to get it lined up eventually, so there are a few scrapes in the paint, oopsie!

After this I pulled the tie rods from the 2015 rack, installed my threadtoolsupply m14x1.5 to m20x1.5 adapters into the rack.... and here's where I found some new info I didn't look into. I had an 07 STi rack previously.... which means the inner tie rod is m16x1.5 thread which I was unaware of. Luckily Advanced Auto Parts had 2 02 wrx inner tie rods in stock which worked like a charm.

After this, I got the whiteline tie rods on and eyeballed the alignment, got the power steering lines hooked up, and got it on the ground. Rolls pretty well from an eyeballed alignment Once pictures decide to start uploading again I'll get them up for you guys to see how nice it looks now!
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Old 04-17-2022, 10:59 AM   #108
Smurftastic
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I can't believe I'm actually making a post in NASIOC lol.

I've been using IMGUR and sometimes imgbox for image hosting.
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Old 04-24-2022, 05:08 PM   #109
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Join Date: May 2015
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2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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Recently reached out to Shibakoff Fab to get a nice one off piece made. Should hopefully see it by July, he is quite busy though! Any guesses on what it may be?
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Old 05-11-2022, 08:54 AM   #110
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Join Date: May 2015
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2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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Got a call from Link ECU on Monday, Justin let me know my ECU was back from repairs and that I'd be receiving it today! So I got to work and drilled out the bolts that hold the front subframe brackets/studs in place, got that hardware replaced with the TSSFAB provided hardware, then set to work getting the engine back in.

Upon doing the clutch install, I realized I was sent the wrong clutch alignment tool for stock/single disc clutches. Luckily, you can trim the tool down to properly align a twin/triple disc clutch. I triple checked and made sure all discs were oriented properly and verified on installation of the engine that the clutch is fully seated by giving the engine a turn while off the ground and the wheels spun!

I also finished up wiring my IC-7 Dash, got the fuel gauge and turn signals working. For the fuel gauge I used Haltech's Fuel Signal Conditioner Module, took the fuel gauge wire in from the cluster and put it out to the IC-7. I need to figure out what resistor im gonna need to put between the alternator excite wire to charge it, but I did cut and tie those 2 wires together for now at the cluster. If anyone knows the exact resistor off the top of their head, please let me know.

Wrapped up my engine harness and got that routed, finished wiring for the Lowdoller Motorsports Oil Temp and Pressure sensor to the ECU, and am all ready and giddy to get my ecu installed and drive this beast for once!
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Old 05-14-2022, 07:00 PM   #111
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Join Date: May 2015
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2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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More headaches encountered. Got my engine in after aligning the triple disc correctly, and also received my ECU back from Link.

Connected the ECU and verified it is working and syncing to the ic-7, got the harness hooked up and went to start the car.

My car would just not start at this point... And then I realized my TPS was reading 100% all the time. Recalibrated and this didn't fix, broke out the volt meter and found it isn't grounding properly so I fixed that. We were able to start it successfully but now it just dies... Mind you the only thing I did was rewrap the harness. Noticed the MAP is reading poorly and found the harness appears to be having issues, I could wiggle the connector on the MAP and the voltage would jump. Ugh... Fixed that and it still starts and dies.

My Link ECU has a neat feature where I can test injectors and coil packs individually, so I did those and everything was clicking properly and sparking/injecting fuel. Then my buddy reminded me to check crank and cam signal... I used the trigger scope built into the ECU and found the voltages are all over the place and not having fun. I made sure the ground to the intake mani tied to these sensors is grounded but remembered I moved the shielding for the grounds and didn't slide it back over them at the grey connector on the harness on the passenger side.

So I decided to just buy iWire's engine harness to fix all this because I wanted to originally but they were out of stock, and also grabbed some 2200cc injectors, as well as new NTK Cam and Crank sensors to be safe. I then started the car, kept it running, adjusted the clutch pedal so it would go in gear, and verified the clutch is working properly. Huge sigh of relief, I'll throw the new harness and sensors in and should be driving the car this coming week!
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Old 05-21-2022, 06:08 PM   #112
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Member#: 421347
Join Date: May 2015
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Buffalo, NY
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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Got the new iWire Engine Harness in, along with testing some Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc injectors and new NTK Cam + Crank sensors!

The iWire harness is 100% worth the money, the routing is nice and it looks amazing. I did have to extend the throttle position sensor harness out due to reverse rotation manifold, but other than that it's a nice piece of wiring beauty.

Lubed up the injectors and had no issues with them fitting the NA 2.5i manifold + Torque Solution Rails with the Radium NA bracket. Threw in their injector data and also set the small pulsewidth data to FIC's 2150cc injectors for 4 bar pressure, and they work spectacularly. On e58-60 they idle like butter and can imagine it'd be the same with 93 on the Link ECU. I even have idle AFR set to 15.5-16.0 for more chop/lope hahaha.

New cam and crank sensors + iWire harness fixed all electrical issues, trigger scope showed perfect now, so once that was confirmed I got the car fired up! I noticed my oil pressure had dropped 15psi across the board, but to be fair I did probably dilute the oil a bit with ethanol from all the cranking I was doing when the cam and crank voltage was out of wack, and I also had my AOS unhooked which definitely contributes.

Threw the car into gear and reversed it through the shop and pulled it forward without issue now! The triple disc feels phenomenal to drive, pretty much like stock with a tiny bit more revs.

I do need to grab an exhaust hanger as my exhaust is touching the driveshaft and don't want to ruin the carbon fiber, so I'll grab one from AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts, get the coolant burped and do some break in miles on this bad boy!! I'll be doing 50 miles of break in on wastegate pressure of 11-12psi, then change the oil and filter and turn it up to about 18-20psi, break it in with more engine braking and rpms + boost up to 500 miles, then from there I'll start leaning hard on the turbo and engine.
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Old 06-05-2022, 06:11 PM   #113
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Member#: 421347
Join Date: May 2015
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Buffalo, NY
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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So, I've been fighting the car recently because it was having a strange issue. It was running and idling fine, then I went to pull it out for a test drive and during the test drive it basically started surging hard, bucking, and felt like a violent fuel cut. Thankfully, I drove around the corner and back so it wasn't too bad of a drive.

I pulled into my garage and fired the car back up, and it is now misfiring at idle. Wtf? Checked timing and the oscilloscope and it seems to be fine. I store the car for a couple days, then come back and pull the automatic datalogs I set it up to perform. I found the O2 sensor to be acting funky by pegging voltage high, then low, and then it just showed lean anytime I touched the throttle (as it misfires which makes sense, of course). I did a few 100% throttle revs and saw my TPS didn't show properly, 29-65%. I also saw fuel pressure was stuck at 58psi indicating the sensor was throwing an error as well.


I grabbed a replacement O2 sensor, 4 new iridium one step colder plugs just in case, and a good amount of wiring supplies as well as a power and ground distribution block kit to run power and ground to all my sensors from that go to the ECU.

Here's where things got even more confusing. My Link ECU has a wire in the expansion loom for 5v to sensors, and a wire for Sensor Ground. I had my O2 sensor, fuel pressure, oil temp and oil pressure all feeding to this ground and power where appropriate. I then took the ground block, wired the ECU's ground sensor to a stud, and all sensor grounds to their own set screw/stud. I also went back and fixed any temporary wiring (like twisted and taped connections, fixed with proper butt connectors)

I turn the key on.... and all my sensors are freaking out? Voltage is going up and down rapidly, especially for fuel pressure and the oil gauges.

My theory turned to potential loopback through this ground, so I removed the ECU sensor ground and took a big ground strap from the ground block and put it behind the radio, to a stud on the chassis. Turn the key to on.... and everything is fixed.

Now I fire the car up today after all this, and it finally runs like a dream. Jacked the front end up, bled most of the bubbles out, fixed my alignment some more, and gave it a quick rev to 8k to make sure it doesn't break up anymore, and the turbo sounds just like a Ferrari 488 GT3 Evo race car's turbo when it blows off.

I can't wait to break this engine in this week. I really am still confused why the ECU Sensor Ground is doing this, but it is what it is.
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Old 07-16-2022, 09:51 PM   #114
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Member#: 421347
Join Date: May 2015
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Buffalo, NY
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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So I got the car out and driving after some issues. Then one of those issues bit me in the ass! My issue with misfires this whole time basically boils down to a dying MAP sensor. My buddy had a new one in stock after it died while doing a test drive so I left it on a side street and fixed that and since then the issue has not returned.

I installed the OEM coilpacks back in and gapped some Iridium plugs down to .022" just to be safe though.

Did my first 50 miles and changed the oil which came out a little dirty from the moly assembly grease I used, but my magnet didn't pick up any big chunks and everything looked good. Had my brother double check to be safe and he agrees the engine looks, sounds and feels healthy.

The car is currently on 24psi and it honestly scared me pretty good compared to the 2.0 I had in previously. I've done about 10-15 pulls and 1-2-3 or 2-3-4 gear rips to really bed those rings in + plenty of engine breaking after of course, and am at around 110-120 miles on the engine now. Still getting almost 20mpg

I pulled some of the datalogs and Virtual Dyno seems to match my expected numbers based on injector duty cycle for these 2200s on 58psi base pressure.

On E65, 24psi, light timing (12* peak tq, 16.5* peak hp) and only doing a 4-7k pull I squeaked out 500whp/416wtq while my injector duty cycle shows about 50-51% which realistically, these injectors should flow enough for around 1000whp on 58psi base pressure and good pumps. Their actual flow at 58psi base is 2470cc FWIW.
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Old 07-16-2022, 09:52 PM   #115
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Join Date: May 2015
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Location: Buffalo, NY
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2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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It done double posted, oopsie

Last edited by ARKTiKPENGUiN; 07-16-2022 at 10:14 PM. Reason: double posted
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Old 10-30-2022, 10:26 PM   #116
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Join Date: May 2015
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Location: Buffalo, NY
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2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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So, it's been 3 months. I drove my car about 400 miles this year due to continuing issues and losing motivation at points. I bought into a private drag test and tune earlier this month to really test the car out, but got rained out so that basically ended my season, along with a weird oil pressure issue and fuel electrical problems.

We changed my MAP sensor to a new position, from my vacuum block to one of the holes on the NA intake manifold. The port that was previously there unscrewed from the manifold and was conveniently 1/8 npt! I also changed the wiring here. Previously, I had an adapter from the stock harness to the same connector that every major MAP sensor seems to use, that GT150 packard connector. This adapter was acquired from Clean Injection, whom I think sells their kits mainly on eBay, and it never gave issues in the past. I found that this connector was very loose in my AEM 5 Bar MAP sensor and caused my boost to spike to 59psi all the time, so I just hard wired the AEM connector to my OEM harness. All fixed there!

Fuel system issues. Oh boy. Yanno, I designed this system to be super simple. -8 lines from tank, factory location, and still -8 through the rails and then it hits -6 at the return. Radium dual pump hanger, Radium 2x Hard Wire kit for the dual 485 fuel pumps. The 2nd fuel pump has not worked this entire time, it seems. Which leads me to believe it's wired backwards in the hanger, or the pump is internally shorting, as the wiring is obviously straightforward outside of the tank. I also partially think my Radium wiring kits are bunk. A couple reasons I say this and how I've troubleshot so far:

1. The 2nd fuel pump blows the inline 30A fuse any time I get into boost above 7-10psi.
2. I removed the hobbs switch, wired it directly, turn the power on, blow the fuse immediately.
3. My main fuel pump is now melting fuses. I drove 30 mins to the track event and my fuse was melting in the socket. My 2nd fuel pump did the same thing and completely destroyed the radium inline fuse holder.
4. I checked the relays, they seem to be good but I ordered 2 spares and still experience the same issues.
5. These power wires for the relay and their respective fuse holders are getting HOT. I figured the Radium kit is rated for the 20A that these pumps normally pull, wtf is happening?

For wiring, I can walk you through that:
- The fuel pump power goes to the respective power on the Hella Relay.
- The fuel pump grounds are on separate grounds, and should have little resistance where they are, which is on 2 sanded clean bolt/nuts that go under the rear seat bottom.
- Relay switched power goes to a 30A fuse tap, holding 2x 30A fuses on the windshield wiper fuse in the in car fuse box. No issues with these 2 fuses whatsoever.
- Relay power goes from relay, to the 30A inline fuse, to the + battery post (separate ring terminals for the separate pumps. I've noticed these aren't weatherproofed and have started corroding so also potential cause of issues)
- Relay ground goes to the Intake Manifold, which obviously has the ECU and sensor grounds. Potential resistance issue here? Should I instead route these over to the battery ground on the fender, for example?

Weird oil pressure issue, that I think I can now explain the cause for: So I was having oil pressure issues from the start. An RCM 11mm oil pump could only pump out 75-80psi on a cold start, dropped to 18-20psi at warm idle, and ran at around 15psi of oil pressure per 1k rpm until 4k rpm and it would only get to about 65psi when hot from 4-8k rpm. Oil temp is unknown, my sensor did not read properly. I'll grab a proper one, toss it in the oil pan and send it to my ECU. I changed out sensors to a new AEM sensor, sent it to a gauge, reads the same output even with different wiring as well. I could throw a mechanical on it, but I bet it'll still read the same. I went from an RCM 11mm (which is unported and unshimmed, btw. just blueprinted and given a special relief plunger) to a JDM 12mm oil pump with 3 shims. 3. I've seen plenty of documented built engines with this exact setup of 12mm oil pump and 3 shims hitting 105-110psi cold start pressure with my same bearing tolerances. Also FYI, I pulled the RCM 11mm pump apart and found zero indication of wear on the gears. No material has run through my engine.

With a 12mm oil pump and 3 shims I hit:

93psi cold start pressure
20-22psi warm idle pressure 1200rpm
16psi per 1000rpm to 4000rpm cruise pressure
so 2000rpm is around 32psi, 3000rpm is around 48psi
Valvoline VR1 20W-50 (300 miles)
Killer B Oil Pan
Killer B Baffle and Windage Tray
Torque Solution V2 HD Oil Pickup

Mmmmmmm. Do you see that last line? A Torque Solution V2 HD Oil Pickup that I put in after my JDM EJ205 blew and I didn't want to put my old Killer B Pickup back in, so I went with quickest solution at the time when building my engine. If you're savvy, you'll notice the V2 HD Oil Pickup is a direct rip-off of IAG's V2 Oil Pickup, which is known to work with Killer B's oil pan when using Killer B or IAG's spacer. But upon closer inspection, I noticed that the Torque Solution pickup's HEAD is about 1/4" thicker, and potentially even more, than the IAG pickup. It also doesn't explicitly state it works with the Killer B Oil Pan and Killer B's spacer. My theory is that the oil pickup has not much clearance to the pan and flow is poor, resulting in poor pressure as well. I could confirm this with clay, I'm sure, or I can just pull the pan off and put the proper pickup on. Or, I upgrade to an IAG competition pan and oiling kit.

Anyways, ignoring all this drama, I went ahead and beat the snot out of my car for a few days. 28-30psi stressing my 11psi wastegate springs to the max, with a header leak at my heads (used my old gasket that was already blown... ) and my single fuel pump screaming for dear life. Base fuel pressure of 58psi, around 20psi I hit 78psi fuel pressure and then it starts to tank down to 64-65psi at 28-30psi of boost. The car is a riot, spinning in 3rd and 4th gear right at peak torque and crabwalking around, and my AFRs are more than safe doing all of this. I then put the car away the next day as I don't want the oil pressure issue to cause any damage, because that'd just be stupid of me. I did manage a 2.03s 60-90 doing a 3rd gear pull for a virtual dyno log, though

So for 2023 over Winter I have acquired and will be making some upgrades:

- Change HKS header over to my new ETS V2 MaxFlow Header w/ grimmspeed gaskets
- Throw on my 4-port MAC Valve to make over 28-30psi
- 2x Walbro 525 Fuel Pumps
- Wiring Specialties Dual Fuel Pump Wiring Kit (40A Inline Fuses and Relays)
- IAG Comp Oil Pan Kit
- IAG Street Engine Mounts and Trans Mount
- TSSFAB Rear Subframe and T Bar once Black Friday Deal arrives
- Falken Azenis RT660 255/40/17


That's it. Car is honestly awesome where it sits powerband wise, so I'll work on making the fuel and oil systems work properly and go from there.
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Old 10-31-2022, 10:44 AM   #117
500_19B
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Toronto, Canada
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2021 STI
2002 WRX, 2023 Crosstrek

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Wow, a lot of stuff going on and you seem to have a very detailed thought process.

Low oil pressure is always scary... I am curious why you did not want to use the Killer B pick up from before: Is it because you were worried about residue from the engine failure staying in the pickup despite all efforts to clean it, or was there something about the pick up design that you did not like?

The thicker head on the Torque Solution pick up does seem like a potential issue in flow restriction... Good luck! (Although from the sounds of it, luck is not needed as you are really on top of everything!)
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Old 10-31-2022, 10:51 PM   #118
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Member#: 421347
Join Date: May 2015
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Buffalo, NY
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 500_19B View Post
Wow, a lot of stuff going on and you seem to have a very detailed thought process.

Low oil pressure is always scary... I am curious why you did not want to use the Killer B pick up from before: Is it because you were worried about residue from the engine failure staying in the pickup despite all efforts to clean it, or was there something about the pick up design that you did not like?

The thicker head on the Torque Solution pick up does seem like a potential issue in flow restriction... Good luck! (Although from the sounds of it, luck is not needed as you are really on top of everything!)
Definitely a lot going on, and I do try my best to be logical and think through my options before really forming an opinion and hypothesis. I tend to worry but I've have definitely learned to gather the facts first now.

My thought was as you suggested, just worrying any potential metal and material could be hanging out in the pickup even after thoroughly cleaning it. In hindsight, I was totally fine to run it as my oil didn't have much material in it, save for some tiny bits of what appeared to be piston. Filter came out clean and all. But, I wanted to be safe rather than sorry with a pricey engine which potentially still almost bit me back hahaha.

I definitely think that's my issue, lack of clearance at bottom of the pan makes sense. I'll get the facts once I drop my oil and pan during winter and measure up the 2 pickups for everyone else to have that info as well.
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Old 11-01-2022, 11:10 AM   #119
500_19B
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Toronto, Canada
Vehicle:
2021 STI
2002 WRX, 2023 Crosstrek

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Thank you, I think the results of your investigation will be very interesting, as well as being useful for the community overall.

Sorry I can't think of anything useful to say vis-a-vis your fuel pump issues. That the one pump has never worked would lead me to suspect an internal short in that pump as the main issue, as you have already considered. I kinda think the relay ground going to the intake should be OK, but really I am pretty weak electrically (heck, I can be pretty weak everywhere!!)

I am sure going through the whole thing this winter will get you to the solution. Your mod list for the winter looks very stout and it will be great to see how it all comes together.
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Old 03-19-2023, 10:11 AM   #120
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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86f Blue Steel Mica

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6 month later update! I have fixed a large amount of my issues, and acquired a lot of nice pieces to install. It was definitely difficult dealing with the cold but this winter season I pushed myself hard to get to the shop and work on the car so it's ready for spring.

First things first, I purchased a 4" boost leak tester. I have never boost leak tested this car, so I figured why not do this? Boy am I glad I did, as I had 5 decent sized leaks going on lol. I had a leak at the following spots:

- Boost nipple on turbo to boost controller, at the turbo
- Reference line from regulator to vacuum block, at the regulator itself
- Intake manifold to vacuum block, at the intake manifold (major leak)
- Vacuum block off 1/8 npt fittings w/o thread tape (forgot these )
- BOV to vacuum block, at the BOV fitting

After I took care of these, I received a Boomba 75mm DBC throttle body. With the Boomba adapter included, it CAN fit the 2.5i NA intake manifold but:

1) Needs to machine the opening on the manifold, obviously
2) Hits my Outfront Motorsports Alternator Relocation
3) If rotated to not hit the Alternator Bracket, hits the hood with IACV (as per usual)

SO I uhh.... yeah I bought a Corsa Veloce intake manifold (Reversed mani still) with a flange for the Boomba throttle body. I also got some Roger Clark Billet TGV Deletes w/ the o rings to the intake manifold. TGV Deletes went on easily, bought new fittings for the TGV next to the turbo as it got too close for comfort and fixed those fuel lines, and I receive the intake mani from Australia either tomorrow or Tuesday.

Next, I procured a battery mount for the trunk of my car for my Antigravity ATX-30RS. I went with Mele's kit and it fits perfectly. I also went ahead and procured iWire's battery relocation kit to make the fuel pump wiring dead simple in the rear. Everything is wired up, I just need to place terminal ends on the fuel pump connectors for the Wiring Specialties Relay kit and then put my new Walbro 525 pumps in the tank.

I took the HKS headers off to pull my Killer B oil pan, which by the way, **** those stupid allen head bolts that Killer B decided upon. My TSSFAB subframe allows easier access to the rear bolts on the pan but no allen socket is short enough to fit in there. A simple 10mm like factory would've made it easy peasy. Got the old pickup off, and it did have some debris on the screen from building the engine (fuzzies from microfibers and such) but no metal bits in there. I cleaned the oil pan out, it had so much moly assembly grease in it lmao. No metal shavings, no worrying bearing material. I pulled the windage tray and wiggled the rods, no signs of bearing issue as they didn't wiggle much lol. Compared the Torque Solutions oil pickup to the new IAG V2 pickup, and surprise the head is bigger and deeper on the Torque Solutions pickup. New one in, sealed up the oil pan again.

Using new grimmspeed MLS gaskets, got my ETS V2 header mounted up. Easiest way here was to loosely bolt it at the uppipe first then get it onto the studs on the head, which was the easiest time I've ever head with headers on a Subaru. These things just slid on like butter.

Note: I have a TigWerks Uppipe, which is like 2" or 2.25". The ETS V2 at the uppipe is 2.5" so to really make use of this I'm gonna need a bigger uppipe.

I also received my TSSFAB rear subframe and t bar, which will be installed when I have time to put it on a lift and make the change over. Shouldn't be too difficult, getting those in and out with the diff for the 6 speed swap were not even an issue.

I grabbed an IAG AOS Pitch mount bracket,which I technically wouldn't be able to use as it would hit my Wideband in the downpipe. I moved this to the inside of the pitch stop on the driver side and it works like a charm, as I don't use a pitchstop mount with my solid mounts. FYI, I've noticed no issues removing this, even under hard accel and shifting.

I received my Mako Motorsports Dash Cluster, so I mounted my Haltech IC-7 flush with this bad boy and got everything back together for my dash to look spiffy. Great quality and fits well.

I also grabbed some new 3" alumi piping and 3" HD Clamps, both to clean up the look of things and for ease of use. I'll have a family friend get this taken care of when our schedules align.

Last but not least, my likely final big purchase for a while. I found a good deal for a CAE Ultra Shifter Race on eBay and jumped on it. One piece rod, chassis mounted shifter, nice and tall for easy shifting, super adjustable. I've heard a lot of good things and some bad, but I'll definitely give an honest review once I get it in.

I still love working on and driving my car, but for now I'll be chilling out on upgrades as I'd like to purchase a house around Summer time. Instead of changing things around, I just want to enjoy it and have fun. I'll weigh it on scales once the tubular frames are all in and report back on that as well.
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Old 03-19-2023, 10:11 AM   #121
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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86f Blue Steel Mica

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More double posts

Last edited by ARKTiKPENGUiN; 03-19-2023 at 10:12 AM. Reason: lol
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Old 04-24-2023, 09:42 PM   #122
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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86f Blue Steel Mica

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Big post! Had some nice days here lately so I finished the car up and got to driving and tuning it. Response feels wonderful and it definitely rips hard. I took a bunch of pics to make this thread not so dull, so here goes.

Corsa Manifold pics:







Mako Dash with IC-7:



CAE Shifter:



Quantum 525 Hellcat Pumps in my dirty Radium Fuel Hanger:






Some pics of the car, with the bumper back on are more recent!















So finally, I plugged my 4-port MAC valve in and got to work driving around and tuning the car. I fixed cold starts for the most part, got idle sorted out, and was having issues with throttle sticking. I noticed my throttle cable was old and beat up, so I took 20 mins and replaced it with a brand new OEM cable. No pics of that, but the difference was immediate. Throttle feel and responsiveness was much improved but once warm the throttle still stuck, so I pulled the Boomba throttle body off and found a ring of carbon/corrosion build up (this is a used throttle body, hence the ring) and took some scuff pad and got rid of it. Car drives perfectly now!

As I was driving to my buddies shop to meet them, I did a pull targeted for 25psi and blew a coupler off at exactly 24.9psi lol. So I had my buddy weld a bead on to the problematic pipe, cranked it down, and turned the boost target to 32psi. I did a pull in 3rd gear, got to 33psi and let out as I caught myself not watching AFRs and didn't want to have any issues running lean. I then shifted to 4th gear and did a pull, watching boost and AFR the whole time, as I rocketed to 38psi with a nice rich AFR! 14.5* of timing at peak boost, but I let out immediately at 6300rpm as I was well over my boost target. Do note, I have 2 525 pumps but only had 1 relay plugged in at this point so I did this on a single 525. The proof is in the log I'll be showing you, as fuel pressure starts to tank but AFRs are nice and rich still. Injector duty also jumped to 80% right after the spot I have selected with the log viewer.






For fun I put this pull in to Virtual Dyno just to see what it made, and a nice clean 720whp and 600ish WTQ seems about right. If I ran the car out with 2 pumps I'm sure I would've seen 760-800whp but I'm just happy the car held up and felt great.




Overall, I love the car and how it drives. I think my dinky .82 turbine housing is doing great, but as shown by most tuners, a turbo this size will need a bigger turbine housing for A) better spool and B) much better flow. I think this will be my biggest restriction. Thankfully AGP has a 1.06 housing (hopefully comparable to the Precision/TiAL 1.05) so I will grab that at some point and do a nice comparison. I think I'll see better spool up and much better flow.

I also grabbed a nice oil temp gauge to chuck into my gauge pod next to my oil pressure so I can get some data on my oil temps in the pan.

Last edited by ARKTiKPENGUiN; 04-24-2023 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 04-25-2023, 08:07 AM   #123
DrTrae
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Java Black Pearl

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Man, I bet that thing is just a riot to drive. Looks and sounds like an absolute beast.
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Old 04-25-2023, 08:53 AM   #124
whozatguy
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Location: Huntersville, NC
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14 BRZ/ 92 SVX

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Wow, nice updates! That manifold is a work of art. I bet its a blast to drive! Good luck on the house hunting!
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Old 05-02-2023, 11:18 AM   #125
ARKTiKPENGUiN
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Join Date: May 2015
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2002 Impreza WRX
86f Blue Steel Mica

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Welp, I wish I didn't have to post this but I am always 100% transparent with everything for documentation purposes on this car. After my previous post, I took my car home so I can enjoy it for some daily driving during the work week. Sunday night I park my car and it was running perfectly. The next morning, it is 33* outside and my car is struggling to start. No biggie, take a spare car to work.

I come home from work and start my car, and there is an audible knocking noise in my engine but my oil pressure is perfect. I pull my spark plugs, and one is pounded in slightly but didnt break the electrode or anything, I figured maybe it's misfiring due to the gap closing from my coilpack having a separated ground. I replace the plugs and no dice, still with the metallic knocking and missing.

So I have my car towed to my shop and get to work pulling it apart. About an hour and a half later I have the engine out and ready for disassembly. I pull the intake mani and what do ya know, a piece of metal sitting in the cyl 1 front intake port. So I get to work pulling the head off, cams, buckets, and cam journals look excellent. I peel the head off and to my surprise, a few pieces of steel are sitting inside Cylinder 1. The piston is bashed in pretty well and so is the cylinder head. The top of cylinder 1 has a slight blemish in an area, but I'm certain this can be honed out and the piston rings don't even go this high in the cylinder. The cylinder head can be mostly saved with a decking and some sanding of the bowl. I'm having the seats examined to make sure they're okay, as they didn't take any damage to my eye. The valves also appeared to not take much of a hit but I have ordered 4 new valves and seals. Cylinders 2, 3, and 4 all look perfect.










I will be disassembling the shortblock Friday to check the rod for straightness and also the crank, but am optimistic as the piston upon turning the shortblock over returned to the proper deck height. I have all the parts ordered to get back up and running before end of the month (bearings, seals, valves, piston, etc)

As for what the steel that got in is, my best guess is my BOV sucked a piece of metal in from my stock location battery tray. My compressor wheel has no marks, and it spins at 20k rpm even at idle so it would have damage if it ingested anything. My intake manifold, throttle body, piping, compressor housing, compressor wheel, and BOV are all aluminum. I checked my throttle body screws, IACV blade, etc, nothing has dislodged. I'll take it as a stroke of bad luck and look to do better, even though I'm very meticulous with not putting things anywhere near my car to suck in lol.

Good news is, I'll have everything this week other than my heads decked (next week!) to get this taken care of. I also ordered a mitutoyo bore gauge and micrometer to rebearing my rods and mains. I'm gonna go slightly tighter on the mains as I don't need to reinvent the wheel here.

A good friend will also be welding up my new piping and hd clamps so my BOV is being moved to my passenger side for good for more room!

While I am saddened by this situation, I will not give up and will make the best of this situation!
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