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07-09-2008, 12:18 PM | #26 |
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MWSOC
Location: Wellington,NZ / Willoughby,OH
Vehicle:99 GF8 Impreza 2.0 2= 1998 BD + BK Legacy GT |
^^ if you remove the ABS fuse and thus disable the ABS system entirely - if the issue goes away then you know the problem is with the ABS system and will need checking out.
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07-09-2008, 07:12 PM | #27 |
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NWIC
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Vehicle:06' Legacy GT Silver + 92' Leggy SS |
^^ Thanks guys.
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07-10-2008, 01:01 AM | #28 |
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Member#: 86291
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: New Fairfield, CT
Vehicle:'97 LegaSTi-2.5XTR '96 BrightonCoupeWRX-SR30 |
<------ABS free for over 4 months now!!!
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06-09-2009, 10:48 PM | #29 |
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Member#: 199020
Join Date: Jan 2009
Vehicle:1998 Outback Black |
Hey so I know this is an old thread but it`s really on topic with my question.....
I pulled the abs relay from my 1998 Subaru Outback and am enjoying driving ABS free. When the ABS was on, my pedal had a nice tight feel to it like it should. HOWEVER, once the ABS was disabled the pedal travel increased dramatically, going all the way to the floor at times. When I re-enable the ABS, the travel is restored to normal. The situation doesn`t make much sense. My only guess is that the ABS box somehow changes the flow of brake fluid and when it`s disabled, the system functions differently. Has anyone else experienced this problem? How can I get a good pedal feel without ABS?? Thanks! Last edited by greasemonkey88; 06-09-2009 at 10:50 PM. Reason: mistake on my own car`s year lolz |
06-17-2009, 01:28 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
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how do I disconnect ABS and not other functions?
I have a 1995 subaru legacy. It is in great condition. I agree with all posts in support of disbaling the ABS. The ABS brakes have almost killed me multiple times. They just don't stop you in time. Last time I almost went off the side of highway 120 on Tioga pass, thousands of feet to my death. I took out the fuse labeled ABS on the driver's side fuse box on the wall left of the gas and brake pedals. My brakes work perfect after that. But now my overhead interior light and automatic door locks do not work. Is there a way to disconnect the anitlock brakes and not disconnect other important car functions? Thank you!
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11-28-2010, 11:48 AM | #31 | |
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Member#: 265312
Join Date: Nov 2010
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ABS Relay location
Hey Paul.
I have the same constant buzzing/battery draining ABS issue as discussed. I've pulled my ABS/Cruise Control fuse under my dashboard, but cannot locate an ABS relay under the hood. My fuse box under the hood contains mostly air conditioning and headlight relays. My vehicle is a 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon. Do you have suggestions where I might locate this ABS relay so I can pull it and stop the constant buzzing/battery draining? Thanks for any information you're able to provide. Tara Quote:
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03-08-2012, 02:47 PM | #32 |
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Member#: 312905
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Scranton, PA
Vehicle:1995 Legacy L Dark Green Pearl |
Fuse Diagram
I Was On Here I Lopoked Under The Hood At The Fusebox And There Is None Listed Saying Abs There Is One By The Gas And Brake Pedals I Need Help To Find The One For The Abs Anyone Have A Diagram Or A Picture With An Arrow Pointing At Which Duse It Is I Have A 1995 Subaru Legacy L. And Hate The Fact It Slides
Plus Is It Gonna Mess Up My Car If I Do Disconnect It?? |
03-12-2012, 01:26 PM | #33 |
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Okay, not sure if I saw the reply, but I'm also baffled at the location for the abs control module. I'm trying to find it so I can decode the fault code for a faulty abs sensor. This is on a 1995 legacy wagon.
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03-12-2012, 02:57 PM | #34 |
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Chapter/Region:
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Vehicle:1995 Legacy L Dark Green Pearl |
i just want to know where the fuse is under the dash location of it i dont have a cover or listing of the fuses names
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03-30-2012, 11:57 PM | #35 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jacksonville NC
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bump, i'd like to know too. car is a 97 legacy gt
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06-05-2013, 10:26 AM | #36 |
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Member#: 56339
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Skyline Drive, Virginia
Vehicle:2005 saabaru x 2 "wash me" |
Great conversation in this thread. it is a topic i have pondered on. there is lots of good info in this thread (and some conflicting opinions, meaning they cant all be absolutely true). also lots of great civil conversation without getting overly emotional.
i may have one or two quick thoughts on the subject. Executive Summary: Subaru ABS is "over boosted" or "over-active" on the models i have driven in the loose gravel or snow. other cars i have driven dont have that same problem. Intro: Once i noticed that my first WRX would have this issue, i started comparing with/without ABS stopping distances on different surfaces in my subarus. then i got used to doing that over the course of a few different subarus and started doing it on other cars (dont tell my mom). i would get to a safe location with the surface in question, then run all the cars i had available on that surface with and without the ABS fuse in place. over the course of a couple years, i had compiled some interesting comparisons. all of these had different tires, etc so cant be directly taken as absolute truths, but in the conditions i investigated, at the time with the brakes and tires in the condition (all in proper repair but of varying degrees of "worn out") these were solid indicators of the trends. i didnt get out and take measurements, but could certainly observe the effect of one of the factors (with ABS) is either consistently better, worse, or about the same as without ABS. my own observations from my personal direct experience (purposefully comparing with/without ABS activated, and also just from normal driving on these surfaces) can be summed up below. Observations on Braking performance: Vehicle / surface / works better with ABS on or off 2000 Honda Accord Sedan / dry or wet pavement / better with ABS 2000 honda accord / loose gravel or "medium depth" snow / about the same 2001 Toyota Echo coupe / dry or wet pavement / better with ABS 2001 Toyota Echo / loose gravel or "medium depth" snow / better with ABS 2005 Mercedes C320 sedan / dry or wet pavement / better with ABS 2005 Mercedes C320 / loose gravel or "medium depth" snow / better with ABS ------------------ 1997 Subaru Legacy GT wagon / dry or wet pavement / better with ABS 1997 Subaru Legacy GT / loose gravel or "medium depth" snow / better WITHOUT ABS 1999 Subaru WRX STI Version 5 Sedan (JDM model) / dry or wet pavement / better with ABS 1999 Subaru WRX STI Version 5 Sedan (JDM model) / loose gravel or "medium depth" snow / better WITHOUT ABS 2002 Subaru WRX wagon / dry or wet pavement / better with ABS 2002 Subaru WRX / loose gravel or "medium depth" snow / better WITHOUT ABS * above was tested on 2 different cars of the same year and model with the same results* 2003 Subaru Legacy / Loose gravel / better WITHOUT ABS 2005 Saab 9-2X (saabaru WRX) / dry or wet pavement / better with ABS 2005 Saab 9-2X (saabaru WRX) / loose gravel or "medium depth" snow / better WITHOUT ABS * above was tested on 2 different cars of the same year and model with the same results* General observations that only apply to the Above Noted Subarus: -the faster the speed, the better chance of ABS working well on any surface -the slower the speed (even down to like 5 mph), the less chance of ABS working well on the loose gravel/mid-depth snow. -for solid ice conditions (just one or two observations but not direct intentional tests): -ABS worked better than full lock without ABS -intentional modulation without ABS worked about the same as with ABS -if there is more traction under the loose surface than on top of the loose surface, your brakes will work better if you can lock up the tires enough to get down to the lower surface. -if there is more traction above than below (cant think of an example), then the brakes would work better if you dont lock up the tires. Conclusion and Recommendations: In the above-noted Subarus (plus there may be others), the ABS engagement goes too far (too much pressure counteraction) and for too long (time duration) when there is loose gravel / med-depth snow to the point of really effectively rendering the brakes ineffective. other manufacturers dont seem to have the same problem. i think it is in the programming, which supports the comment about subaru in NZ re-programming their ABS. (i wish we could get access the re-programmed ABS here too, which would be able to be applied to any US-model subaru potentially) When driving your car that falls in the group of the Above Noted Subarus, first of all, drive at a safe speed on any given surface, taking into account the surface conditions and weather. second of all, for most drivers in most conditions, its probably better to leave the ABS in stock working condition. third of all, for certain performance-minded, experienced drivers under controlled conditions (as controlled as possible), pulling the ABS fuse before driving on loose gravel or medium-depth snow can enhance the overall car response to braking events, and can contribute to a fun, safe, and enjoyable driving experience. make sure you remember that when you are back on the tarmac, to remember to put the fuse back in, or to adjust your driving to not having ABS on the tarmac as well (both of these are prone to forgetting to do them, which could cause increased risk of accidents). be safe and brake early and often! Last edited by crisco555; 06-05-2013 at 11:33 AM. |
06-05-2013, 03:09 PM | #37 |
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Vehicle:2014 Electric Datsun 2005 Adventure van |
Only on NASIOC can we go from how to fix a common problem (ABS relay failing in the open position) to REMOVE THE ABS IT'S THE DEBBIL!
95 Legacy, IIRC the relay is on the ABS module itself (pass side of the engine bay, behind the headlamp) pop the cap off and replace the relay (about $35) |
06-05-2013, 05:30 PM | #38 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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Location: Skyline Drive, Virginia
Vehicle:2005 saabaru x 2 "wash me" |
^ so true. sorry for getting a little off topic.
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06-07-2013, 10:32 AM | #39 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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I agree on the speed sensor check. I had this happen on a BMW I once owned, and turned out it was this exact thing. If I recall, it would trip on when I hit a nice bump, too.
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03-27-2022, 05:05 PM | #40 |
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Member#: 529418
Join Date: Mar 2022
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ABS light, sensor issue 95 Legacy
Hi All, I am a Subaru lover, former Subaru financial rep. type at a bank, and STILL love my 1995 Legacy L wagon awd 2.2L automatic with now 317,000 miles in USA. ABS sensor on my rear driver side went bad with corrosion over time, then finally just replaced as Cable itself snapped. Dealer having trouble getting new sensor to sit right, and while it seemed fixed for first 25 miles leaving dealer (speeds up to 50-60mph, varied town/hiway) ABS light came on again at almost exactly the 25miles from dealer mark at about 50mph. I find it hard to believe these sensors are SO sensitive to infinitesimal seating tolerances? A) I guess dealer has to file away more corrosion and rust under where abs sensor sits on the wheel knuckle? B) is it normal for some other part of AbS to take awhile to boot back up if car had bad sensor and light on for over six months? C) Oddly, the next day (yesterday), the light stayed out for about 2 or 3 miles, then came on. Then other times it stayed off when vehicle started, (indicating no OHMS problem, in a new sensor, so ok), but came on almost immediately when car moved forward like 20'. D) i did feel some odd sensations/vibration when braking and pedal seemed to go down farther than normal (pads and rotors just changed, fluid is 99% level) and I guess that is somehow the abs solenoids running a purge or fill-up / test "get ready" cycle? Nota Bene: I had not heard this funny sound the Whole time the AbS light was on for 6 months with bad sensor, so part if me happy to hear it again!?) E) BiG Question: i care less about abs brakes than about my AWD, and is it true that the entire AWDrive is not NOT not active when abs light on??? I have had many nonABS cars, and drive 2 nonABS motorcycles now, so "no ABS" doesnt bug me much, and many of YouAll say it's bad on early '95 era Subarus, BUT But but.... drumroll ... does that darn ABS light on dash ON mean I do NOT have all wheel drive active if I need to park in or get out of an snowy/icy parking spot, say, at a ski slope lot, mountain road, etc. ??? ANY comments appreciated. I will flow them back to Subaru dealer now, as I'm taking her back to see if they can seat that Sensor driver/rear!!! !!! Thanks for any help/comments. --- Bo.
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03-31-2022, 08:20 AM | #41 | |
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Member#: 283429
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Down yonder.
Vehicle:2016 Fuji Sunfire 03 Silver |
Quote:
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04-01-2022, 11:32 PM | #42 | |
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Member#: 529418
Join Date: Mar 2022
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Quote:
May I clarify: backing plate means the metal part that comes with ABS sensor and has the hole for hold-down bolt to knuckle? You're saying some folks have had to REPLACE the rear knuckle to get ABS to work?! I realized they replaced just Driver Rear sensor 'cause Pass Rear tested ok. Possible that there is enough of a mismatch between possibly worn/dirty Pass side sensor that after a mile or so now, it's throwing ABS code? Current situation: when turn car on after sitting, or after clearing obd-ii codes, the ABs light on dash is off/dark (i.e., both rear sensors are checking o.k. for Ohm resistance, yes?) But after driving less than 1/4 mile or 1/2 mile, ABS light turns on. I did get one longer "light off" drive, and took chance tk slam on brakes to get pulsing ABS, and it worked. After 2 years of inactivity, both front wheels locked and then ABS pulsed. I also several times since picking up car have felt some "whirring" sensation and vibration, sinking in brake pedal, which I guess is good news that abs solenoid servos are filling up/pressurizing (my guess, i not expert here???) So, good news is that the senoids and pulsing still works after 27 years and 2 years of no rear driver abs sensor. :-) Thoughts? Can dealer's abs reader find more detailed codes on where abs fault is? I think dealer embarrassed they had to use the under dash connector method to Morse-code read errors, as they no longer have reader for a '95. (!!!) |
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04-01-2022, 11:41 PM | #43 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2022
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Quote:
p.s. what is a Backing plate? Is that what protects brake rotor from interior side of wheel elements? or does that mean just the metal flange/seat part of abs sensor? Thank you! |
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04-02-2022, 11:03 AM | #44 | |
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Member#: 283429
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Down yonder.
Vehicle:2016 Fuji Sunfire 03 Silver |
Quote:
The buzz noise: That is the ABS system cycling. What is happening is the ABS module looks at all 4 speed sensor for frequency and amplitude. Because one sensor has a bigger gap ( or cracked/missing reluctor) the amplitude is lower/missing. As the wheels slow down the module sees this as that one wheel's rotation slowing sooner than the other 3 and kicks in the ABS. First - measure air gaps on both sides in rear. Also inspect for missing or cracked reluctor rings. If you have a multichannel oscilloscope and were looking at two, three, or all 4 speed sensor signals you can clearly see the difference in waveforms as the wheels slow down to a stop. Younger techs just don't know about these issues. Subaru only trains for the latest technology. If you have no experience with older cars you just don't know this things. Below is a picture of a backing plate (showing drum brake - disc is similar) and then the knuckle (left diagram is AWD) with reluctor ring shown on hub. |
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04-05-2022, 01:57 AM | #45 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2022
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Thank you!
Quote:
(Bonus: I'm now getting also an annoying obd-ii code 0441 Evap Purge Incorrect Flow. I checked that hoses are all good into and out of canister under hood ('95), I have goof gas cap and new filler pipe. When the car cycles a Canister purge (usually at about 2,200 rpm gradually accelerating on highway, normal engine temp. of 180° F.), the CEL comes on but does not flash. What are most common failures in old Subarus causing this code? I also checked the small 1/8" hose from canister to EVAP solenoid was not clogged by pellets; free flowing. Do dealers have a special testing apparatus to narrow down where problem is causing the 0441 code? |
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04-05-2022, 07:29 PM | #46 | |
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Join Date: May 2011
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Vehicle:2016 Fuji Sunfire 03 Silver |
Quote:
I have seen hairline cracks in the roll over/fuel cut valves in top of the tank Give P0442 in cars after 2000 - those later models do not use P0441 codes. |
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