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Old 04-27-2021, 02:52 PM   #176
subydude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
Engine is up and running nicely. Need to break it in of course and monitor fluids see how its doing.
Get an AOS on the car before doing more track events. Even on the good pan it's easy to push enough oil through the head vents and into the breather system that it runs low. No pan is going to keep a flat engine full of oil over multiple sessions if you are driving it hard unfortunately.

I prefer the IAG one, but don't know much about the Cobb setup so if it's same size and similar then it'd be fine.

I spun my first bearing at the track in 2010 on a stock pan with no AOS and street tires. Idiot me thought checking oil at the beginning of the day was enough, but these engines without an AOS can go through a quart or more depending on tires/suspension/track layout/etc per session and it's not hard to forget to check if things are going quickly. With an AOS it's not hard to still lose a bit if the pan is over full, but it will usually stabilize at around full. In autox with hoosiers I can push almost a quart of oil out the head breathers, but since it all goes to an AOS that's also setup for VTA it mostly drains back and only a little gets pushed to the VTA can.
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Old 04-27-2021, 04:06 PM   #177
Kostamojen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteZombie View Post
If you don't mind me asking, what did the factory short block cost you?
I still get employee pricing on my Subaru parts, so it was under $2k.
Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
Get an AOS on the car before doing more track events.
That will be done before it goes back on the track. I'm going to go with a Cobb specifically because it has a CARB EO number as of this year, which means I'll never have to take it off once its on the car.

I'm a little concerned about clearing the strut brace though... I have no interest in removing that.


The next thing I will be doing is getting the car BAR inspected. After that I can throw some mods at the engine but not before.
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Old 04-27-2021, 10:54 PM   #178
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Excellent Glad its alive again ..It will be doggin Porsche's in no time
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Old 04-28-2021, 11:33 AM   #179
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Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
I still get employee pricing on my Subaru parts, so it was under $2k.

That will be done before it goes back on the track. I'm going to go with a Cobb specifically because it has a CARB EO number as of this year, which means I'll never have to take it off once its on the car.

I'm a little concerned about clearing the strut brace though... I have no interest in removing that.


The next thing I will be doing is getting the car BAR inspected. After that I can throw some mods at the engine but not before.
As another owner of a GC, plan on making your own mounts. I made my own for the crawford and IAG cans I've used, and then made another when I relocated the IAG to the dogbone mount. It's easier if you do a FMIC since you have more space, but if you stay TMIC there's a few holes on the passenger strut tower that have tacked nuts on them that you can use to mount it.

I would strongly suggest VTA setup as well for track stuff as you WILL push oil out of the can when you start getting fast enough. Or add another can in line. I still push oil out of the IAG if it's anywhere above the full mark on the dip stick in the KB pan.
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Old 04-29-2021, 06:27 PM   #180
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Decided to ditch the stripes and panda sides for a more normal look. Turned out pretty good. Might have to paint the hood vents though...








Engine is running really well! Been breaking it in the "proper" way, even did a 0-120 pull and it pulls almost as well at high speeds as the Chevy SS I had. Will be great with a VF48.
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Old 04-29-2021, 06:35 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by subydude View Post
As another owner of a GC, plan on making your own mounts. I made my own for the crawford and IAG cans I've used, and then made another when I relocated the IAG to the dogbone mount. It's easier if you do a FMIC since you have more space, but if you stay TMIC there's a few holes on the passenger strut tower that have tacked nuts on them that you can use to mount it.

I would strongly suggest VTA setup as well for track stuff as you WILL push oil out of the can when you start getting fast enough. Or add another can in line. I still push oil out of the IAG if it's anywhere above the full mark on the dip stick in the KB pan.
Ya I'll have to figure out the AOS mounting, there are a few holes to work with on the strut tower...

If I need to, it is possible to convert the IAG/Cobb AOS from street to track version to vent overflow out of the can. Thats one good thing about those systems.
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Old 05-31-2021, 04:44 PM   #182
Kostamojen
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Looks like I forgot to mention it, but while I was doing the engine rebuild I added a Group-N power steering cooler. Figured it was a good idea due to the track work plus DDMan, who I track with occasionally, used a thermal viewer and saw power steering fluid reservoirs are one of the hotest areas in the engine bay after a track session.

Couple pics including some thermal wrap I added:




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Old 05-31-2021, 05:04 PM   #183
Kostamojen
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So I do have a few updates. Been talking with BAR and the state refs, have my appointment for the end of the month to get the swap certified using the COBB Accessport tune with the CARB sticker that is on the car so I don't have to show proof of the stock ECU and ECU map from the dealer which should be cool.



Engine is running great still, but the clutch wasn't (severe judder and rattles on decel) so I decided to remove the trans and inspect it... The throwout bearing was loose and the pressure plate/flywheel showed signs of the judder in one spot. I think flywheel clearance is an issue so I bought a new Southbend 16lbs flywheel and a snout repair kit. Also bought a new clutch fork since it was heavily worn and clutch for pivot pin and spring too just in case.

Going to install it all this week when the parts are here. Some pics:








Also, DDman hooked me up with an extra Autometer Oil Temp gauge so I picked up a gauge pod for it and installed an AEM Oil Pressure gauge as well. I went with AEM for the pressure gauge mostly because the sensor is smaller and fits better where I'm using it, plus I like the digital and analog combination of it.

Used the install as an excuse to repaint some of the interior pieces too. Turned out OK I think:




Right now my issue is that I have a track night I signed up for on the 17th and the BAR appointment is a week later! I wish the BAR appointment was first so I can install the AOS afterwards but its not so I either have to remove it before the appointment or have the CARB sticker for it (might not make it in time), kind of frustrating but I can swap it off in a couple hours if needed.
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:45 AM   #184
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You didn't have oil temp or pressure before?

Maybe I missed it, but which AOS setup did you decide on? I wouldn't mind seeing pics of the install. I need to get one setup on my car, but kind of want to DIY are doing a DIY can on my other much simpler track car.
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Old 06-01-2021, 01:37 PM   #185
Kostamojen
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Originally Posted by WhiteZombie View Post
Maybe I missed it, but which AOS setup did you decide on? I wouldn't mind seeing pics of the install. I need to get one setup on my car, but kind of want to DIY are doing a DIY can on my other much simpler track car.
I went with the COBB AOS since it has a CARB certification for 02 WRXs, first AOS with CARB approval which is awesome and means I won't have to ever remove it. Its the same as the IAG V3 though.

For the install, I only had to drill one hole for the mount. The other hole is already there and works perfect. I did have to order a nipple to replace the PCV valve though.
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Old 06-04-2021, 10:49 PM   #186
Kostamojen
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Pics of the AOS install as promised:







I'm wondering if I can combine the two top breather hoses into one and block off the breather on the turbo inlet that is close to the turbo in order to create more room and air space? Other than that, its pretty straight forward with the install. Easier than newer cars with the white plastic breather sensor things you have to deal with.


Car is up and running again btw! The new clutch bits make the car feel 1,000,000x better!!! Feels like a new car now with the engine/trans! The engine is smoother, clutch has ZERO shudder and feels smooth as silk. The new flywheel makes the engine feel nice and happy. SUPER excited to drive it more!

The gauges are working now 100% too:


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Old 06-06-2021, 09:53 AM   #187
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Outstanding : congrats
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Old 06-07-2021, 12:13 PM   #188
WhiteZombie
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Thanks for posting the pictures, definitely helps me visualize!
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Old 06-07-2021, 07:07 PM   #189
archer1.8
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The Group N Power Steering Cooler is a nice Piece. I went with the Smaller Cooler located up by the PS Reservoir and noticed it gets hot as hell on track days. Definitely good for longevity.
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Old 06-07-2021, 09:16 PM   #190
Kostamojen
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Originally Posted by archer1.8 View Post
The Group N Power Steering Cooler is a nice Piece. I went with the Smaller Cooler located up by the PS Reservoir and noticed it gets hot as hell on track days. Definitely good for longevity.
Your PS cooler is what got me looking into them. Having it mounted so far back in the engine bay is odd though, plus I didn't really have space there so I went with the Group-N one and it solved my PS line routing issues as well so 2 birds one stone!
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Old 06-07-2021, 09:19 PM   #191
archer1.8
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Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
Your PS cooler is what got me looking into them. Having it mounted so far back in the engine bay is odd though, plus I didn't really have space there so I went with the Group-N one and it solved my PS line routing issues as well so 2 birds one stone!
For a Street car that does some track work that smaller cooler works well. However, for your car the group n unit is very nice
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:00 PM   #192
Kostamojen
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So I confirmed that the remaining clutch rattle on deceleration is the clutch disc... Would it be an OK idea to match a different brand clutch disc to a pressure plate? Its a stage 1 Exedy kit, there street HD ACT clutch discs available for $130 instead of buying a whole new kit for $500+...
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:39 PM   #193
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sick idea! looking good, rock on
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:24 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
So I confirmed that the remaining clutch rattle on deceleration is the clutch disc... Would it be an OK idea to match a different brand clutch disc to a pressure plate? Its a stage 1 Exedy kit, there street HD ACT clutch discs available for $130 instead of buying a whole new kit for $500+...
I would mic out the new disc to ensure you have enough clamping force and that it would have proper Release as well. There usually a spec sheet in the clutch "KIT" But since you don't have that. you would have to do the math to ensure the 'new' disc will function properly .. My 2 pesos... Good luck with it as usual..

Bill
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Old 06-24-2021, 01:13 AM   #195
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Good news everyone!

Had my Ref appointment today and got my BAR sticker. Swap is now certified!





I believe this might be the first time someone has tried it with the COBB accessport CARB tune and sticker? Not entirely sure. The process turned out to be way easier than I expected, just had to have all my receipts and paperwork in order (donor car info, purchase of COBB accessport receipt, copy of CARB executive order pdf, registration) and paid $8 and waited an hour for the Ref to get everything sorted out and the sticker applied.

Also, made a quick radiator shroud... I wish there was a good aftermarket option though that would fit this radiator and the GC chassis so I can delete the brackets too but I haven't found one.



Going to put the AOS back in tomorrow and remove the bumper soon to do the front skirt and some radiator side shroud thingies maybe, plus one or two other things I might do while its off not sure yet.
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Old 06-24-2021, 03:03 AM   #196
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Awesome ...congrats
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Old 06-24-2021, 04:09 AM   #197
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Congratulations, that must feel good.
Onward then, thanks for shearing the journey.
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Old 06-24-2021, 09:35 AM   #198
WhiteZombie
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Hard work paying off!
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Old 06-24-2021, 06:21 PM   #199
Kostamojen
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Reinstalled the AOS today and cleaned up the hose routing a bit. I think this works better but we shall see...


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Old 06-29-2021, 07:42 PM   #200
Kostamojen
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The CARB sticker just showed up for the AOS! Now I don't have to worry about removing it ever again When I worked at M45, we often told customers they probably have to remove or have AOS's removed prior to SMOG, and we certainly recommended having them on almost any build. So the ability to have this legal and not worry about is just awesome.



Also wanted to update what the dash looks like now. Paint matched the Autometer gauge bezel and added a phone mount next to the Accessport mount along with an eject button



Next up I have a line on a STI intercooler that might even have a IAT port added. Good for what I might need to do in the future which is awesome.

Upcoming mods I'm thinking of doing as well: Blanket for the Turbo under the heat shield (Maybe COBB?), vents for the radiator to block the gaps and promote better radiator flow, and I have an idea for something I wanted to brainstorm... Adding a Cooler/Small Radiator prior to the Factory Oil Cooler using coolant acting as a way to pre-cool the coolant that is headed to said factory Oil Cooler (according to coolant flow, the coolant comes from the head and is hot when headed to the factory oil cooler).

Since I'm not running a second radiator fan, I do have space to put an additional cooler behind the radiator to experiment with this... Just have to figure out what cooler to use and make the required bracketry and find the right hoses to pull it off:

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