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Old 04-15-2009, 09:00 AM   #26
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Emailed that guy about 10 minutes ago.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:01 AM   #27
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Day crew bump, need help with this. ^^^
I don't see a reason to spend 500 extra dollars. The lights on the econotrailer are LED, and I never had an issue with them, even after two years. As far as a warranty, there really aren't any wear parts on a trailer other than the bearings, brakes and tires, all of which are inexpensive to replace.

-Duncan
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:04 AM   #28
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:05 AM   #29
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That same trailer is $2,400.00 in Frederick, MD.

http://www.hillsidetrailers.com/item.aspx?i=31
Work them against one another?
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:20 AM   #30
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You can't go wrong with any of them really. I have a Wright that I'm going to be selling soon that I bought locally that's been solid for the 6 years I've had it. Just like a car, make sure it's had it's regular maintenance done... bearings, brakes, tires and make sure the breakaway battery is still in working order.

--kC
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:22 AM   #31
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You can't go wrong with any of them really. I have a Wright that I'm going to be selling soon that I bought locally that's been solid for the 6 years I've had it. Just like a car, make sure it's had it's regular maintenance done... bearings, brakes, tires and make sure the breakaway battery is still in working order.

--kC
On my enclosed trailer, I installed a breakaway kit that has a battery charging circuit. Saves the hassle of having to worry about pulling the battery and charging it once a year.

-Duncan
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:23 AM   #32
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On my enclosed trailer, I installed a breakaway kit that has a battery charging circuit. Saves the hassle of having to worry about pulling the battery and charging it once a year.

-Duncan
Still, it's only an X-year battery.
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:51 AM   #33
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I ended up buying an 18' open trailer from Dively in PA. I brought it home on Saturday.

Thanks to dunk for LOTS of advice sent through PMs and for putting up with all my questions.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:35 PM   #34
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Update?

I'm considering buying a trailer for my Impreza - can you give me an update on how the trailer has been and what you would recommend after your experience with the trailer? I was considering a used Featherlite or Aluma, but the prices are so much more than what you considered buying.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:40 AM   #35
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Yeah its been rock solid, no issues at all. The only thing I will say is I wish I got a 16' instead of the 18'. I've never *needed* the extra length and the 18 is harder to maneuver in tight spaces.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:31 AM   #36
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I have a 16' Diverly and it has been perfect for the 3 years I have had it, had to ad some ramps in the middle so the little car fit on it but no issues....can't go wrong really.

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Old 02-27-2013, 08:49 AM   #37
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Hmmm...

Prices appear to have gone way up since I bought mine.
http://www.econotrailer.com/Open.html

I did go and pick mine up, and saved some money there.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:39 PM   #38
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wow, I agree, I picked mine up at a distributor for WAY less than that
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:45 PM   #39
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Yeah its been rock solid, no issues at all. The only thing I will say is I wish I got a 16' instead of the 18'. I've never *needed* the extra length and the 18 is harder to maneuver in tight spaces.
It was perfect for towing the Plymouth.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:53 PM   #40
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Yeah its been rock solid, no issues at all. The only thing I will say is I wish I got a 16' instead of the 18'. I've never *needed* the extra length and the 18 is harder to maneuver in tight spaces.
Put a tire rack and storage box on the front.



Holds 8 tires and 6 "not for fuel" wide-mouth fuel jugs.
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:46 PM   #41
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Any regrets not going with aluminum? I was thinking of Featherlite, Eby, Cargopro and Aluma. Prices are about $5-6K though, but thought in the long run they maybe better. Also, what do you think about flat vs the split style you bought? I like the idea of working under the car sometimes, but I have a lift to use in the family business so I am a bit spoiled. So, far I am leaning towards getting 16ft version similar to yours and figure I could replace the trailer in several years if needed for the money I save - but thought I would ask what you think.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:04 AM   #42
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I wish I got a 20' trailer instead of an 18. Def wouldnt get a 16'.

For the cost, I dont think Aluminum is worth it. Its 2-4x the cost, same weight. Doubt itll last 2-4x longer. Id rather throw away a steel trailer after 10 years.

After borrowing many trailers with full decks and split decks, and wood vs metal decks, I bought a full wood deck. Its much more versitile as to what I can haul. And if I want to have an open center, I can just remove the boards in the center.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:13 AM   #43
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Interesting about removing boards when you need to - didn't think of that. As far as lasting ten years - I'm an old fart so I hope I am still doing this in 10 years I was thinking more for resale and just quality while I use it. But, I guess if one of my kids takes the setup it maybe good to have a durable trailer.

Thanks for the advice - you all are making it a tough decision for sure.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:16 AM   #44
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looked at weights on the 18ft Bri-mar wood trailers - wow - almost 900 lbs heavier. Not sure the extra weight is a good idea. My tow vehicle is a 1/2 ton pickup so I need to be lower on weight if possible.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:35 AM   #45
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If you know how to weld you should consider building a trailer. It's easy and fun. I built one a year ago and did a whole thread documenting the process:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3020002
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:25 AM   #46
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If you know how to weld you should consider building a trailer. It's easy and fun. I built one a year ago and did a whole thread documenting the process:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3020002
Very impressive - if your not an engineer, you have a future as one. I do have access to welding equipment and I know how to weld aluminum and steel - but frankly I am not that good at it. It takes practice and time, which unfortunately I am short of. (Ex. recently - it took me two months to build a wood shed which should have taken only one day.)

Be a great project though and hope others see it and give it a try. Nice job!
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:39 AM   #47
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looked at weights on the 18ft Bri-mar wood trailers - wow - almost 900 lbs heavier. Not sure the extra weight is a good idea. My tow vehicle is a 1/2 ton pickup so I need to be lower on weight if possible.
My Caliber wood trailer is 1300# unloaded. I pull it with a Tacoma
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:01 AM   #48
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also, keep in mind that aluminum is hard to repair and has Kahn said, the steel trailers aren't as heavy as you'd think (mine also comes in at #1300 full steel/spli deck) there are people that NEED an aluminum trailer, if you don't it's not worth the added expense (IMHO of course)
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:10 AM   #49
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Any regrets not going with aluminum? I was thinking of Featherlite, Eby, Cargopro and Aluma. Prices are about $5-6K though, but thought in the long run they maybe better. Also, what do you think about flat vs the split style you bought? I like the idea of working under the car sometimes, but I have a lift to use in the family business so I am a bit spoiled. So, far I am leaning towards getting 16ft version similar to yours and figure I could replace the trailer in several years if needed for the money I save - but thought I would ask what you think.
I'm in the flat midwest, so the minor weight difference doesn't matter at all. If you were towing in mountains it might be worth it.

I like the split style mainly for the ease of washing the car off after rallies. It's a lot easier to get a power washer under the car with the split trailer.

I've never needed/tried to work on the car, there's too much framework to make that easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidss View Post
If you know how to weld you should consider building a trailer. It's easy and fun. I built one a year ago and did a whole thread documenting the process:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3020002
Mine is actually home-built. My only issues so far have been the original had poor tie-down points (one broke off and almost lost the car), and there is only an inch of suspension travel before the axle bottoms out on the frame.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:26 AM   #50
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That hondatech dude put his axles too far forward..

EDIT: Disregard. Super short trailer for a CRX.

Double edit: You can see how having too short of a trailer means he's having a hard time strapping the car down.

Last edited by vision.dynamix; 03-01-2013 at 08:34 AM.
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