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Old 08-29-2021, 03:14 PM   #2076
PDXREALTOR
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Join Date: May 2017
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2017 STI

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Last edited by PDXREALTOR; 08-29-2021 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 08-31-2021, 03:32 PM   #2077
H4yduk3
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Default Raising Coilovers for Off-Road Use

Hi, All.

I've been researching this for quite sometime without too much luck just yet.

I Need to raise my 2015 WRX to the maximum possible height, using coilovers, for Off-Road use. While it is my DD, the roads I drive daily are primarily non-static, i.e.; gravel, dirt, slickrock and just plain rock, as well as snow, sluch and ice.

I'm already planning on bumping my stock rims down to 16x7" and putting on some burly all-season truck tires, as well as upgrading the armor underneath.

The environment ranges from both extremes of temperature, literally -40 (-70 with windchill) to 121 degrees.

I require as much throw as possible.

Like many of us, my budget does Not alot for $5k professional rally coilovers.

What are my options?

For the love of Pete... I'd appreciate any information/input form anyone.
The stock armor underneath gets more shredded everyday.

Thanks in advance to any and all replies.

Cheers!
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:46 PM   #2078
scotte30m3
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@Racecomp Engineering,

I just bought a set of yellows for a steal off a 16 STI. I want to buy your shocks and struts… I have a 2015 WRX, should I buy STI shocks and Struts or should I buy WRX shocks and struts from your website?

Yes, I used to own a e30 M3. Yes, I still cry at night that I sold it. No, I won’t tell you how much I sold it for… (every typically asks)
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Old 09-10-2021, 12:57 AM   #2079
Leoj7991
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does anyone know of 2020 wrx suspension will fit on 2009 STI
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Old 01-09-2022, 04:54 PM   #2080
Aryan_wrx111
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Default Newbie Wrx 2015

Hey guys! Thrilled to have found this forum! First of all gotta admit your image verification for registration is nearly impossible to pass, did it 6 times.
Secondly I live in Hungary and own a wrx2015 and it’s the only 2015 wrx in the whole country so a bit troublesome to get my hands on stuff.
Recently I’ve been tempted to do some Offroad modifications to the car as before this I always had 4x4 trucks and been Offroading. I have already cut the front and rear bumpers in half and removed the side lip and now am looking for a lift kit. The car is also my daily drive so bear that in mind while answering
Again thrilled to be here!
Sincerely yours,
Aryan
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Old 01-10-2022, 03:02 PM   #2081
Aryan_wrx111
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Default Ordered a GC8 reiger

Last question; can I daily drive a gc8 reiger?
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Old 08-17-2022, 09:47 AM   #2082
Charles33579
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Spoke to someone at RCE and they suggested an upgrade from my OEM 2018 WRX(non-STI) springs to 2015 WRX springs. Stock autocross class considerations.........

When I search online to order 2015 OEM springs I get conflicting information and some sites have the same part number for 2015 vs 2018 OE springs.

Does anyone have details on the part numbers needed to confirm I'll get the older spring spec with the higher spring rates?

Trying to confirm if these are correct:
Front Coil Spring - 2015 WRX
20330VA000

Rear Coil Spring 2015 WRX
20380VA000

Last edited by Charles33579; 08-17-2022 at 12:13 PM. Reason: Add part numbers
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Old 08-17-2022, 09:48 AM   #2083
Charles33579
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delete

Last edited by Charles33579; 08-23-2022 at 01:17 PM. Reason: double post
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Old 11-27-2022, 11:39 PM   #2084
SpicyPeaNut
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Are the 2015+ wrx and sti coilovers interchangeable between the two trim levels now?
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Old 11-28-2022, 02:32 PM   #2085
AndyRoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpicyPeaNut View Post
Are the 2015+ wrx and sti coilovers interchangeable between the two trim levels now?
Fitment is the same.
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Old 11-28-2022, 07:14 PM   #2086
SpicyPeaNut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyRoo View Post
Fitment is the same.
Thank you. Now to find a set of wrx takeoffs...
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Old 08-26-2023, 06:26 PM   #2087
jpooah1
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Default 2015 subaru wrx limited tein z flex coilover install and review

just to post to help anyone searching for the information. I looked on youtube saw a few installs but struggled a bit. Here are my tips for a newbie(me) to install tein z flexcoilovers on my 2015 wrx limited.

the factory torque specs were in different places and confused me on different tutorials i had read different numbers so i was very careful installing to double check the torque specs as I was removing the bolts to see if it matched. Here are my observations

overall the front install was easier than the back because lining up all the bolts took so much time and getting them out from the rust/holes was time consuming. i am not a mechanic. hobbyist with a skill level that i do my own brakes, oil changes and rotors, and spark plugs. so youtube definitely helped me

front install- make sure the top hats align so that the camber adjustment can move left to right. there are some pictures and youtube online showing it, basically the tein top hat has a letter- R for passenger side, L for driver- and I faced the letter towards the outside wheel side of the car. Top strut mount bolts torque was 14.5 ft lb

a real annoying thing was the locking ring on the bottom of the coilover was so so tight. my advice would be to try and break it off/loose when the suspension isn't on the car first. you're under the car and the tiny spanner wrenches are a pain and trying to get them onto the locking rings- the whole thing was a mess. in retrospect i'd try to at least just break them loose first i used my long torque wrench and the 1/2 in drive fits into the spanner wrench hole so i used that for leverage.

the front coils bottom bolts are torqued to 114 ft lb
of note also i wanted to keep stock height as my daily driver is my wrx and go up and down all kinds of driveways- so as an fyi i increased the factory tein coils front and back by 30 mm and that was perfect to get back to just about near stock height. (fyi tip) it's a 3 finger width from tire to fender when it's on the ground.

i used liquid wrench on all the bolts below the suspension which helped to get them loose.

also i found it easier to use a 19mm wrench on the head of the bolt holding it still, and my torque wrench on the nut- and the nut came off (19mm) easy that way. also i did mark with a gold sharpie the top bolt to keep the camber as close to stock. when it all came back together everything is very much like stock and the alignment is very straight so far. yes i will go for an alignment this week.

yes using a jack to push the hub back up and align the 19mm bolts is helpful make sure it won't slip off the jack.

the back suspension took longer. the top nuts are 22.1 ft lb of torque on top- those are easy and access via the trunk is fine, just taking out the bottom liner was all that i needed and just lift the flap to expose the two nuts on both sides. that part is easy. they are 14mm nuts

the bottom of the suspension had the 3 bolts and nuts that hold onto the control arm. i don't know the name of the thin metal piece but all 3 bolts have to be removed there. breaking the nuts loose same as the front- the torque was 30 ft lb on the nut that was 14mm directly next to the strut nut. the back lower strut nut was a 17mm and torqued to 59 ft lb, and the nut that is closest to the wheel/hub was a 17mm torqued to around 33 ft lb- i measured the torque as i was pulling out the nuts.

then i had to use a rubber mallet and a brass punch to push the bolts out from the holes. it was super annoying to get them out

i did use a jack to hold the hum assembly in place but it didn't seem to help that much for the back everything kind of stayed in place. note again- it was easier to break the locking nut on the tein struts/coils first because under the car it's such a pain to fit the spanner wrench under there and the locking nut is so super tight, my breaker bar torque wrench helped and i used a 1/2 in drive wrachet extension which the head fit into the bottom strut hole so i could hold it from spinning while applying torque to the lower locking ring.

my advice on the back suspension was also to lengthen the strut by 30mm so it was close to stock because i could not align the 3 bolts when the strut was at the tein factory ride height it was too short so the bolts didn't align. once the strut was extended that 30mm- it fit really well the bolts went back in- then I could adjust the height to my liking.

again torque on the bottom nuts was 59 ft lb on the strut bottom bolt, 30 on the end link 14mm nut, and about 33 ft lb on the 17mm nut closest to the hub/wheel



it took me 5 hours to do everything by myself and i have never done a suspension before so i thank nasioc and youtube as the information was there but i had to figure some stuff out and almost gave up.

my impression is that the tein manual says to go full stiff all the way clockwise on front back- then click backwards counterclockwise on the dampening 10 for front and 12 in back. my suggestion is start with 8 for front (8 clicks back from full stiff) and 10 in back- feels like OEM plus- very compliant and comfortable but planted and not harsh.

why did i choose tein coilovers and what was my goal. i did not want to lower my car too much. i would have settled for a tiny bit lower but i'm too tired to mess around with it- as i mentioned i measured 30 mm adjustment higher than the factory tein setting and it basically put me at stock ride height. front and back.

i daily drive, i was annoyed by my stock suspension at 72k miles it always bothered me the bounciness on bumps. it's not harsh but super bouncy. now after the tein coil- the ride is soft, it is not race harshness- but feels OEM plus a little stiffer- better on bumps. i got rid of the bounciness which is what i wanted.

hope it helps
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