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Old 08-09-2013, 07:39 AM   #26
AZP Installs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waylouderthanyou View Post
Problem solved, finally, the problem is because in this hot Florida weather the slim fans just wont cut it. The stock fans have two speeds so i put back a stock set of rad fans and cars works perfect. Hope this helps someone. For more info, pm me.
I can see that being an issue, especially with a FMIC blocking flow as well.

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Old 06-30-2016, 10:23 AM   #27
TROLL
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BugI w/ 07 STi Swap
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Old thread, but I have the same problem.

My car runs hot only when the AC is on.
freshly built 2007 STi motor, brand new Koyo Rad with stock fans. Ambient temps are 95+ during the day.
I can idle all day long with the AC off and it will work normally -- staying between 195-205 degrees.
If I turn the AC on its ok for the first 10 minutes, but then the temps start to creep up and once they got up to 220 I turned the engine off.

Question: Should both radiator fans operate the same all the time or is it possible for one to run at high speed and the other to run at low speed? I'm suspicious of my main fan (drivers side) not spinning as fast as my sub fan (passenger side).

If its not the fan, I don't know what it is. I've burped the system a second and third time so I'm confident thats not the problem. I have a brand new OEM thermostat and a Gates water pump installed as well. Everything has 1500 miles on it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:46 AM   #28
gregnauman
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I have the exact same problem as Troll. FMIC Built STI motor with about 20K on it. Stock fans stock Thermostat Koyo aluminum radiator etc


All this on my car is in a 2005 Outback XT with 6 speed etc etc from STI

I have always thought that the limitation in the opening of the front bumper is what causes mine to overheat.

The outback front bumper is pretty closed off so it may not be able to handle the FMIC tucked in there as its blocking too much flow is my guess.
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:47 PM   #29
waylouderthanyou
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You guys should let the car get up to operating temperature turn the ac on and see if both (stock) fans come on. Both fans should be on. My buddy recently had this problem and one of his stock fans wasn't kicking on. We changed the fan motor and no more overheating.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:41 PM   #30
gregnauman
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Yea I have done that. I have the chart from the service manual that tells you when fans are High speed, Low speed and when they come on and off etc. Mine works like the manual chart says.
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:13 PM   #31
TROLL
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what does your chart say?

I'm wondering if the main and sub fans should always work in unison (both on, both low, both high) or if there are some times when one will work and another wont, or one will be high speed and the other low.

I'm suspecting that my main fan doesn't spin as fast as my sub fan, and I'm not sure if thats correct, or the most efficient and surefire way to test that.
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Old 07-07-2016, 05:53 PM   #32
gregnauman
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Ill have to take a picture and post it up for you guys.

I have been through the whole fan check multiple times and compared to other legacies and Im pretty positive its not the fans......
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Old 10-09-2020, 05:13 PM   #33
iNfEk
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bump from the dead... I've been dealing with this same issue for YEARS now. I literally just drive without AC and it stays put. In the morning time when driving to work, the OAT is cooler and I can run the whole time with AC and the gauge doesn't raise up at all. In the late afternoon when I get off of work and head home, its a lot hotter and there's a lot of traffic. Temps raise up to the upper line above the middle normal operating temp. As soon as I turn off my AC and continue to drive the temps lower. My stock fans seem to be running properly but I haven't verified if they are running at low or high speed. Anytime AC is turned on both fans turn on. If I idle out in my parking stall I can run the AC the whole time and no over heating. If i just idle the car with AC off the fans will turn on at around 200 and then back off accordingly. AC blows cold, alternator seems to be ok as well. My radiator is from Ron Davis and is full aluminum. New thermostat, Coolant flush, upper expansion tank replaced and new IAG AOS replaced. I cannot figure out why only with AC does this happen. I thought it would be a water pump issue but the EJ207 engine has 10k miles on it

I do not have an AP to monitor temps as I am on JDM ECU with Carberry. I plan to change setups to a standalone soon and I'll be able to monitor all parameters soon.

Anyone figure out what this could be?
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Old 10-09-2020, 07:56 PM   #34
TROLL
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To follow up on my own issue, I finally determined that BOTH of my fans had failed. Seems statistically impossible for both to fail at the same time, but my guess is that one failed previously but didn't impact things bad enough to notice, but when the second one **** the bed, then it was a major issue. I put some used fans in and it solved my problems.
Hope its as simple of a solution for anyone else having this issue!
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Old 10-09-2020, 08:17 PM   #35
iNfEk
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12.9@103MPH EJ205 4EAT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TROLL View Post
To follow up on my own issue, I finally determined that BOTH of my fans had failed. Seems statistically impossible for both to fail at the same time, but my guess is that one failed previously but didn't impact things bad enough to notice, but when the second one **** the bed, then it was a major issue. I put some used fans in and it solved my problems.
Hope its as simple of a solution for anyone else having this issue!
I appreciate the feed back.

how did you determine your fans failing?
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:40 AM   #36
TROLL
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Sorry, I don't remember the details, but when I realized my fans weren't turning on when expected I looked further upstream in the wiring because I didn't think it was possible for both fans to both fail separately, but thats what it ended up being. I think I had a friend come over and help me test power at the fan connectors to see if they were getting power, and they were. Then we manually powered the fans and they didn't turn on, so that pretty much confirmed the fans had failed and I replaced them.

I apologize because its definitely pretty fuzzy now -- I would recommend confirming normal operation and conditions when each fan runs. I believe one is the main radiator fan and is temperature based, and the other is the AC fan and is activated when the AC is turned on. They each have a low and high speed as well, I think.
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Old 10-18-2020, 07:04 PM   #37
iNfEk
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Hmm. So I’ve verified both fans operate. Both SEEM to have a high and low function but they sound very similar when powering each one directly. Ac on both fans turn on and seem to be at high speed and push air towards the engine. My wiring isn’t oem and I’m using a non-oem connector but the wiring colors for a 3 pin fan are correct confirmed via the fsm.

drivers chassis:

1. Black
2. Yellow/Red
3. White/Blue

Drivers fan:

1. Black
2. Green
3. Blue

Passenger chassis:

1. Black
2. Yellow/Green
3. White/Green

Drivers fan:

1. Black
2. Green
3. Blue

Nothing else can cause this issue. Idk if I should just replace the fan motors and relays even though they’re ok.
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Old 11-29-2020, 04:37 AM   #38
GreekSpeed
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The problems I've ever had with the cooling system that is not air/bleeding related are as follows.

1) Radiator Cap needs to be replaced, usually a cheep and worthwhile replacement, especially if it hasn't been replaced in a while. I generally prefer OEM caps over any aftermarket ones, especially over generic ones from auto parts stores.

2) Radiator fan is not flowing enough air for the hire temps generated from the new engine setup and needs to be upgraded -or- The radiator fan is working but not flowing as much air as it used to, and needs to be replaced.

3) Not having thick enough wire for a new aftermarket fan. Factory wiring is not sufficient for most aftermarket high flow fans and new wiring with a relay may be necessary.

Another worthwhile easy change, if tuning software is available, is to lower the temp that the fan turns on at. For example 04 STI's fan turns on at 205F and setting it a little lower to 198F can give the fan an earlier start towards keeping the temps down before they rise too much.
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