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Old 04-17-2021, 12:00 PM   #15376
f4phantomii
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If you are a member of the cheap bastard club, you can set the post, fill lower third of hole with concrete and let set up.

Pack gravel/stones/dirt on top until hole is two-thirds full.

Fill upper third of hole with concrete.

Takes longer as you have to pour concrete twice, but saves the amount of concrete needed.
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Old 04-17-2021, 12:55 PM   #15377
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Honestly, I think the whole concrete thing is over-hyped.

When I moved into this house 17 years ago, I put in a split-rail fence. Bored holes 30-36" deep, chucked post into the hole, backfilled and tamped, moved on. Not a single post has moved in all that time.
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Old 04-17-2021, 02:09 PM   #15378
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Depends on the fence. Split rail has minimal lateral load. 6' high privacy fence has to deal with wind loads, etc. IMHO you can generally get away with dirt backfill for the middle posts and set the corners and gates with concrete.
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Old 04-17-2021, 02:16 PM   #15379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutBucket View Post
Depends on the fence. Split rail has minimal lateral load. 6' high privacy fence has to deal with wind loads, etc. IMHO you can generally get away with dirt backfill for the middle posts and set the corners and gates with concrete.
I kind of went overboard on my mail box. I will probably hate myself later but I put 3 - 50 lb bags in to that hole. Plus I dug it down to 48”. That was 4 years ago. My neighbors is leaning farther and farther from the plow truck blasts. Mine not so much.
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Old 04-17-2021, 07:50 PM   #15380
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Doing some minor landscaping at the front of the house. Real minimal but fresh mulch, few low plants, and we have a big pine tree I'd like to add some light underneath. No more than 8-10 lights total.

Looking at adding some landscape lighting, but should I go low voltage or solar solar?

I have low voltage transformer in the back yard already and wire on hand, so just need a bit more wire...but the hard parts done already.

I assume solar has probably come a long way, and is actually cheaper per light - but Im still skeptical. HD guy said solar is good but will be less light, but if you have the transformer go hard wire. I think the low voltage will ultimately cast more light, and likely be a better color. Anyone have first hand experience?
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Old 04-17-2021, 08:02 PM   #15381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutBucket View Post
Depends on the fence. Split rail has minimal lateral load. 6' high privacy fence has to deal with wind loads, etc. IMHO you can generally get away with dirt backfill for the middle posts and set the corners and gates with concrete.


This is a pool fence 4ft height ornamental aluminum.

May as well post some updates pool build pics.











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Old 04-17-2021, 08:31 PM   #15382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostAndFound View Post
Doing some minor landscaping at the front of the house. Real minimal but fresh mulch, few low plants, and we have a big pine tree I'd like to add some light underneath. No more than 8-10 lights total.

Looking at adding some landscape lighting, but should I go low voltage or solar solar?

I have low voltage transformer in the back yard already and wire on hand, so just need a bit more wire...but the hard parts done already.

I assume solar has probably come a long way, and is actually cheaper per light - but Im still skeptical. HD guy said solar is good but will be less light, but if you have the transformer go hard wire. I think the low voltage will ultimately cast more light, and likely be a better color. Anyone have first hand experience?


The mushroom style stake/ post solar lights aren’t good. They all say “waterproof” but it seems that moisture gets into the panel and ruins them over time.

The Litom style accent solar lights seem brighter than most solar. You can get them in white or warm. They’re more expensive than the stake style though

Been doing the research. But haven’t pulled the trigger yet
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Old 04-17-2021, 09:20 PM   #15383
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Jonny, looks great! I would set those in concrete too. Didn't realize you were talking about thin metal posts. I'm sure one bag per hole will be plenty.

Landscape lighting: IMHO always go low voltage if running the cable isn't a royal pain. Gotta always look out for placement of solar so they get enough light, etc.
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Old 04-17-2021, 11:06 PM   #15384
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Johny, looks awesome. What's the giant white thing in the pool on the "right" side?
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Old 04-18-2021, 11:02 AM   #15385
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That’s a beautiful pool. Pool code requires some crepe myrtles there. At least 4.
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Old 04-18-2021, 11:10 AM   #15386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiplemw View Post
Johny, looks awesome. What's the giant white thing in the pool on the "right" side?


Jonny you wonderful man.

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Old 04-18-2021, 06:16 PM   #15387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mla163 View Post
That’s a beautiful pool. Pool code requires some crepe myrtles there. At least 4.

Haven’t even thought of landscaping yet, grader should hopefully be there this week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Motel Fella View Post


Jonny you wonderful man.




Quote:
Originally Posted by shiplemw View Post
Johny, looks awesome. What's the giant white thing in the pool on the "right" side?

It’s salt that hasn’t dissolved yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NutBucket View Post
Jonny, looks great! I would set those in concrete too. Didn't realize you were talking about thin metal posts. I'm sure one bag per hole will be plenty.

Landscape lighting: IMHO always go low voltage if running the cable isn't a royal pain. Gotta always look out for placement of solar so they get enough light, etc.

Thanks
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:13 AM   #15388
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I was sandblasting.
Mistakes were made.
Things happened.
Glass imploded inches from my face.

I modified the cabinet to hook up my shop vac so any dust gets pulled out. Didn't want to be breathing that stuff.

The port has a slot you can vary the opening on to reduce the suction and I usually leave it half open. It apparently got moved to fully closed.

New piece of tempered glass on order so that doesn't happen again. And I'll be adding a relief valve of some kind.

The cabinet originally had a 2in opening to let pressurized air out. But the filter clogged up after about 10 seconds. So when I added the vacuum port, the other one became an inlet port. Apparently it was undersized for my shop vac.
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:48 AM   #15389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f4phantomii View Post
I was sandblasting.
Mistakes were made.
Things happened.
Glass imploded inches from my face.

I modified the cabinet to hook up my shop vac so any dust gets pulled out. Didn't want to be breathing that stuff.

The port has a slot you can vary the opening on to reduce the suction and I usually leave it half open. It apparently got moved to fully closed.

New piece of tempered glass on order so that doesn't happen again. And I'll be adding a relief valve of some kind.

The cabinet originally had a 2in opening to let pressurized air out. But the filter clogged up after about 10 seconds. So when I added the vacuum port, the other one became an inlet port. Apparently it was undersized for my shop vac.
Good to hear no injuries. That is one device I have not really found a need for....yet. You appear to maintain the same method of work bench utilization that I do. “Oh look a flat surface, let me put some stuff on it”.
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Old 04-19-2021, 08:25 PM   #15390
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I have been having bad luck finding competent carpenters to do work on my house I don't feel confident enough to tackle myself, especially when it comes to finish work. I just don't have the knack for it as my step father would attest to if he were still alive. (He was a custom home builder for his entire working life, and he was one of the best. A true craftsman.)

I've had a schyster and two what could be described at best as "handymen" leave me with the feeling that I needed to invest in finding a decent one. All 3 of these clowns were highly recommended by Angie's list or NextDoor, which I now realize are two piss poor resources for finding anyone worth a crap.

So I bucked up and visited the local lumberyard (Yes, they still do exist) and got a recommendation form there, remembering that is how my step father really got his start when he broke out on his own. Hoping that real carpenters still visit real lumberyards instead of the local BBS, I played phone tag with a guy until this afternoon. When he asked my timeline I said it was entirely up to him.

Here comes the second gripe - "Well, I could possibly do it at the end of October. Maybe November if it stays warm enough and your comfortable having the house open that late in the year for a day or two." (I'm having windows replaced that are taller that is what's in there now and new siding put on to eliminate the shutters I hate.)

Crap. The windows I have now are horrible single pane double hungs that are original to the house built in 1969. There are storm windows that do **** all. And I finally have the money to replace them and this guy can't do it until late fall.

The upside is that if he's this busy it probably means he's good. The down side means he ain't gonna be cheap.

Maybe what I'll do is all of the rough construction and window setting and have him replace the siding and trim work inside.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:44 PM   #15391
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Finding people to do work that are competent is a real bitch. It is one of the main reasons I do the projects myself or put them off.

I had a guy quote me to replace my deck last year in July.
- "Well I can probably rip it off in November and get it ready so that we could get it replaced in March / April. I also need 100% of the funds now to reserve your spot. "
- Wait, what? You want me to pay 100%, or $6500 right now on the spot? Also, that's the main entrance to my home and you want to rip it off for 6 months? If that is what I'm going to sign up for I might as well do most of the work myself and take the angry stares from the shipwife for the amount of time I'm putting in and how much extra time it is taking .
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Old 04-20-2021, 12:33 PM   #15392
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Need some input on how to wire up some track lighting. Gonna use these in our shed at the top of the vaulted ceiling:

We are gonna have drywall put up, I am running the wire for outlets and I want to run it for the track lighting. I am not sure if it's supposed to be run a specific way out of the drywall (code?) onto the stud?

I have this connector:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-...310684195-_-N&



that the romex will terminate to. It will connect to this track:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-...5049/310684239



The track is going to be secured directly to the ceiling stud.

Can I/should I just run romex out to the connector? Does it need to be in conduit to the connector when it comes out of the drywall? We're talking like a few inches max that would be exposed.
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Old 04-20-2021, 12:52 PM   #15393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptirmal View Post
Need some input on how to wire up some track lighting. Gonna use these in our shed at the top of the vaulted ceiling:

We are gonna have drywall put up, I am running the wire for outlets and I want to run it for the track lighting. I am not sure if it's supposed to be run a specific way out of the drywall (code?) onto the stud?

I have this connector:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-...310684195-_-N&



that the romex will terminate to. It will connect to this track:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-...5049/310684239



The track is going to be secured directly to the ceiling stud.

Can I/should I just run romex out to the connector? Does it need to be in conduit to the connector when it comes out of the drywall? We're talking like a few inches max that would be exposed.
You need a box to run the wires into and mount the power source of the track lighting . Don't just run wires through the drywall. That is a huge no-no.
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:04 PM   #15394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nepawrx View Post
You need a box to run the wires into and mount the power source of the track lighting . Don't just run wires through the drywall. That is a huge no-no.
The power source of the track lighting is just that connector though, and it's going to be mounted to the stud.

I am not using the center box in that picture, it won't fit at the top of the vault.

This is what it looks like:

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Old 04-20-2021, 01:17 PM   #15395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptirmal View Post
The power source of the track lighting is just that connector though, and it's going to be mounted to the stud.

I am not using the center box in that picture, it won't fit at the top of the vault.

This is what it looks like:

Building code is going to require a junction box.
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:23 PM   #15396
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I think that dual head light is already attached to the junction box??
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:33 PM   #15397
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Originally Posted by Salvation27 View Post
I think that dual head light is already attached to the junction box??
I'm moving that box, I'm ripping out that entire shelf/ fake ceiling and changing the light to these track lights up top where it's vaulted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch18 View Post
Building code is going to require a junction box.
That connector I have, the opening has a conduit hole. Can I just run conduit over the area that is gonna to come out of the drywall into it? Would that be acceptable to code?

The only other way would be to mount the box the track light came with(in the picture) to the side of one end of the ceiling, which I would prefer not doing just for aesthetics.
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:38 PM   #15398
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:50 PM   #15399
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Yeah, that's how it's typically installed. But with the vaulted ceiling you can't put that on the top as you can see in the picture, it won't be flat, it's an A. So I would have to mount it to one side of the A.

They sell the connector I bought, home depot says many people buy them together . So how is this connector used if it can't be used per code? Since it has a conduit opening it leads me to believe that is how . Running conduit outside of drywall is ok per code right? So if I only need a few inches to be exposed outside if drywall, can't I just run that amount in conduit? Am I missing something?
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Old 04-20-2021, 10:55 PM   #15400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiplemw View Post
Finding people to do work that are competent is a real bitch. It is one of the main reasons I do the projects myself or put them off.

I had a guy quote me to replace my deck last year in July.
- "Well I can probably rip it off in November and get it ready so that we could get it replaced in March / April. I also need 100% of the funds now to reserve your spot. "
- Wait, what? You want me to pay 100%, or $6500 right now on the spot? Also, that's the main entrance to my home and you want to rip it off for 6 months? If that is what I'm going to sign up for I might as well do most of the work myself and take the angry stares from the shipwife for the amount of time I'm putting in and how much extra time it is taking .
yeah, if all you want is someone for a 1 or 2 day gig, and want someone good, they aren't willing to find time, too many other jobs that pay better than a 1 or 2 day gig. it just isn't worth their time.

it's not that they don't want to work for you, they want to make it so inconvenient, that you'll move on to someone else, they are too busy.

which is exactly why the fascia boards on my home are rotting off. I don't have time to do that **** myself, and anyone I would want to do it tells me to pound sand for the hours it's going to take to replace a few fascia boards.
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