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Old 03-08-2021, 04:01 PM   #1
Nix_Evo
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Default 2020 WRX - 6.5" No Navi, No H&K - Head Upgrade

Hi all,

So I'm trying to upgrade the stock piece of crap that came with it. When I go on crutchfield it says a few notes that concern me.

***The front speakers are routed through the Starlink module that's under the factory radio. The Starlink module must remain connected when you install a new car stereo.
***When you replace the factory radio, the factory backup camera won't work anymore.
***An iDatalink-ready car stereo is required to retain your vehicle's personalization settings menu.


I don't understand the first note, can someone with more knowledge than me explain? I really want to use my factory backup camera, the thought of losing that basically kills the whole idea of replacing that horrible stock stereo and WTF does the third note mean?
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Old 03-11-2021, 01:23 PM   #2
quality_sound
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Look for Boost & Shutter's radio install on YouTube. He explains this in the video.

You can 100% keep the backup camera. You usually only get this message when you select a radio that doesn't have a screen.

It's an interface between the car and the radio. The link it on the Crutchfield page and there are TONS of videos about the iDatalink series of products on YouTube
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Old 03-11-2021, 01:33 PM   #3
Nix_Evo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
Look for Boost & Shutter's radio install on YouTube. He explains this in the video.

You can 100% keep the backup camera. You usually only get this message when you select a radio that doesn't have a screen.

It's an interface between the car and the radio. The link it on the Crutchfield page and there are TONS of videos about the iDatalink series of products on YouTube
Do you have any reccomendations for a deck that has android carplay and will maintain the backup camera with better than the horrible stock sound? I see we both have 2020 wrx.

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_462450...?tp=72381&pg=2
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Old 03-11-2021, 01:48 PM   #4
quality_sound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nix_Evo View Post
Do you have any reccomendations for a deck that has android carplay and will maintain the backup camera with better than the horrible stock sound? I see we both have 2020 wrx.

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_462450...?tp=72381&pg=2
Literally anything from a quality aftermarket manufacturer like Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, or Pioneer. Some even have wireless Android Auto and CarPlay
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:42 AM   #5
Nix_Evo
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It says on crutchfield that all of the options do not maintain the backup camera.
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Old 03-14-2021, 02:42 PM   #6
BrasilianBoy07
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Not sure why Crutchfield says that backup camera is not supported, but sometime Crutchfield does get things wrong. That being said, Idatalink does state on their website that 2020 Subaru WRX is supported which means they support backup camera etc. What you should do is to do some research on Idatalinks website to see what feature are supported on your car. Also go on Idatalinks forum and ask any question you may have. Last if you like call Idatalink they have good customer service and can help you out.

Now what you will need to get the new radio and backup camera working is: the Idatalink Maestro RR or RR2 and the SU2/RSU2 harness. This is all on Idatalinks website. (Using Idatalink will be the easiest way to get everything working)

Now if your looking for radio recommendations here are some radios I recommend:
Kenwood Excelon DMX907S
Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX

Keep in mind that this is just two of the many radios that can be recommend. When it come to aftermarket radios you just need to look for a radio that had all the features you need and to make sure that the radio supports Idatalink.
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Old 03-14-2021, 03:14 PM   #7
murrdogg24
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If you are going to upgrade your speakers(which I would suggest) and go with an amp you don't have to retain the starlink module, the speakers will connect directly to the new aftermarket HU and amp.
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Old 03-15-2021, 09:28 AM   #8
Nix_Evo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
If you are going to upgrade your speakers(which I would suggest) and go with an amp you don't have to retain the starlink module, the speakers will connect directly to the new aftermarket HU and amp.
Wouldnt that require running new wire? I'm trying to avoid that.

As far as speakers, I already have the Polk's on the way.
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Old 03-16-2021, 02:25 AM   #9
GoFrogs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nix_Evo View Post
Wouldn't that require running new wire? I'm trying to avoid that. As far as speakers, I already have the Polk's on the way.
If you are going to use the factory harness on the back of the new HU, you can use the factory speaker wire...but you will be limited to the new HUs power output.

If you are running amps, them sadly, you will need to run new wires...unless you can tap into the factory wires. But why would you do that? If you are going to the enormous trouble of installing a new HU, an LC2i/7i, AMPs and new speakers...installing new speaker wires is par for the course and piece of mind.

While you are in there, you might as well sound deaden your door too (again, see Boost & Shutter on Youtube; he's got a tutorial for that too)


Granted, I dislike my 6.5" Starlink. Functionally, it seems to work fine, plays SiriusXM, connects to my phone, allows me to use AA, has a nice Waze display, dims when the light are on and dims with my dimmer; recognizes my commands when I use them.

However...

Audio wise, it is absolutely atrocious. I dislike the EQ/Fade/Balance (give me knobs any day). I have mine set to Bass= -7, Mid= 0, Treb= +2 because the factory flat tune 0/0/0 is extraordinarily bass heavy and rubbish. (EDM/House/Chill/Jazz listener )

The speakers might have tiny magnets, but they go decently low for what they are and the power they are given.

I have the factory speakers. I did not "upgrade" to the metal tweets, but I'm glad I didn't as I don't want a really bright system. I like textile/silk tweeters.

Also, the factory speaker locations really let the system down too. Too much separation between the mid and tweeter plus the direction(s) they are aimed. The system, as a whole, was not thought out well; and stuff is located as a matter of convenience, not function/performance.

In the end, I'm not going to spend the $2k needed to make the factory audio a thing of beauty. I'd rather put that into other areas of the car that need just as much help and are responsible for the way the car drives.

Good luck with your project.
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Old 03-16-2021, 09:08 AM   #10
Nix_Evo
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I'm adding deadening to the doors and upgrading the speakers. I'm hoping that will be enough of an upgrade that it sounds better than playing directly off my cell phone. If not, I may have to consider other options.

I know part of the problem is I'm comparing the sound to my other car I drive which ford did an amazing job on the audio but still...
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Old 03-16-2021, 09:12 AM   #11
Nix_Evo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
If you are going to upgrade your speakers(which I would suggest) and go with an amp you don't have to retain the starlink module, the speakers will connect directly to the new aftermarket HU and amp.
If I was to go this route, wouldn't that disable my stock backup camera, car settings etc?
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Old 03-16-2021, 10:18 AM   #12
murrdogg24
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Depending on what headunit you go with you can retain your factory backup camera with an additional wiring harness that taps into the stock wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nix_Evo View Post
If I was to go this route, wouldn't that disable my stock backup camera, car settings etc?
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Old 03-16-2021, 10:43 AM   #13
Nix_Evo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
Depending on what headunit you go with you can retain your factory backup camera with an additional wiring harness that taps into the stock wiring.
Thank you so much for the info. I'm hoping the new higher quality speakers will upgrade it enough to get it past tin can quality.
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Old 03-16-2021, 02:05 PM   #14
GoFrogs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nix_Evo View Post
I'm adding deadening to the doors and upgrading the speakers. I'm hoping that will be enough of an upgrade that it sounds better than playing directly off my cell phone. If not, I may have to consider other options...
Any deadening in the doors will help with the way the car sounds.

It does matter where you put it and how much. The biggest issue with our doors are all of the (access) holes on the inner door that allow for the installation of window/lock mechanisms, etc.

Subaru's solution to "cover" these holes was to put some loose fitting foam in/around/near these holes to "block" some extra noise. These pieces of foam and the plastic water/vapor barrier are not enough and thus a lot of (high frequency) road noise comes though the door.

My GTI had a solid inner door structure with a panel that was held in with 15+ bolts eliminating these access holes. Of course, if you needed to access anything inside the door, you had to remove this (metal) panel. Plus VW thought it was necessary to rivet the speakers to the metal...such a pain.

Back to the Subaru...there are several tutorials on YT that show people making templates of the inner door and applying sound deadener to cover 95-100% of the inner door (inside the rubber sealant line that held the vapor barrier on). The templates were used to show where holes needed to be put to clear bolt heads and/or pass wires/cables through.

The nearly full coverage of the sound deadener (to the inner door) was to be the new vapor barrier.

The folks also put deadener in the door, on the outer skin to quell vibrations/resonance and "disrupt" speaker back waves. Your call on that.

Just make sure to clean all areas you are applying the deadener with either Isopropyl Alcohol or other cleaner that evaporates entirely and does not leave a residue.

People also put a few pieces of deadener on the door panel to lessen its resonance as well.

Door both doors at the same time so each is done in the same manner as the other.


Links to help you out. Search/explore each site for helpful tips:
Boost and Shutter
(Mark at) Car Audio Fabrication

Last edited by GoFrogs; 03-16-2021 at 02:06 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-16-2021, 02:15 PM   #15
Nix_Evo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoFrogs View Post
Any deadening in the doors will help with the way the car sounds.

It does matter where you put it and how much. The biggest issue with our doors are all of the (access) holes on the inner door that allow for the installation of window/lock mechanisms, etc.

Subaru's solution to "cover" these holes was to put some loose fitting foam in/around/near these holes to "block" some extra noise. These pieces of foam and the plastic water/vapor barrier are not enough and thus a lot of (high frequency) road noise comes though the door.

My GTI had a solid inner door structure with a panel that was held in with 15+ bolts eliminating these access holes. Of course, if you needed to access anything inside the door, you had to remove this (metal) panel. Plus VW thought it was necessary to rivet the speakers to the metal...such a pain.

Back to the Subaru...there are several tutorials on YT that show people making templates of the inner door and applying sound deadener to cover 95-100% of the inner door (inside the rubber sealant line that held the vapor barrier on). The templates were used to show where holes needed to be put to clear bolt heads and/or pass wires/cables through.

The nearly full coverage of the sound deadener (to the inner door) was to be the new vapor barrier.

The folks also put deadener in the door, on the outer skin to quell vibrations/resonance and "disrupt" speaker back waves. Your call on that.

Just make sure to clean all areas you are applying the deadener with either Isopropyl Alcohol or other cleaner that evaporates entirely and does not leave a residue.

People also put a few pieces of deadener on the door panel to lessen its resonance as well.

Door both doors at the same time so each is done in the same manner as the other.


Links to help you out. Search/explore each site for helpful tips:
Boost and Shutter
(Mark at) Car Audio Fabrication
Thank you so much!

I'm just installing the thick styrofoam cups around the speakers for now. If I decide to run new wires i'm going to do the entire door x4. Just trying to put my toe in the water without doing a leroy jenkins yet.
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Old 03-16-2021, 11:52 PM   #16
CXVninja84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nix_Evo View Post
Hi all,

So I'm trying to upgrade the stock piece of crap that came with it. When I go on crutchfield it says a few notes that concern me.

***The front speakers are routed through the Starlink module that's under the factory radio. The Starlink module must remain connected when you install a new car stereo.
***When you replace the factory radio, the factory backup camera won't work anymore.
***An iDatalink-ready car stereo is required to retain your vehicle's personalization settings menu.


I don't understand the first note, can someone with more knowledge than me explain? I really want to use my factory backup camera, the thought of losing that basically kills the whole idea of replacing that horrible stock stereo and WTF does the third note mean?
I used the kit from AutoHarnessHouse.com for my Crosstrek and they definitely have what you need to keep the backup camera. The issue with the Starlink module is that the front speakers are wired through that module. This is used to play the sounds for the safety features and stuff. If you remove that box, then then you won't get sound from that system. All you need to do is wedge the box in there somewhere to keep it working. Lots of info on their website about doing this install! https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/Sub...termarket.html
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Old 03-22-2021, 10:56 PM   #17
war6763
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Does anyone know if upgrading a 2018 WRX to a 2020 WRX head unit (both with HK) will work? I've swapped over all of the wiring and things seem to be working right, except that sound isn't generated.
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Old 03-26-2021, 02:15 PM   #18
gunz4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by war6763 View Post
Does anyone know if upgrading a 2018 WRX to a 2020 WRX head unit (both with HK) will work? I've swapped over all of the wiring and things seem to be working right, except that sound isn't generated.
In general, NO. IIRC, 2018 used a different mechanism for volume control whereas 2019+ started utilizing the CAN system. The jury is out on whether the switchover occurred in 2018 though because I have heard mixed things from one of my friends who has an audio shop. He said the earlier 2018 models had the standard volume control whereas some late 2018 models had CAN control. I do know that 2019+ are different than 2015 through 2018 though...
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Old 03-26-2021, 04:36 PM   #19
Mycroft_Groks
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I bought a sygav android unit from amazon.. it was literally plug and play. Back up camera works out of the box, carplay works, no need to rewire anything. It comes with its own trim and just snaps right it.

hardest part of the install was getting to two bolts on the sides of the factory unit.
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